Quick paint job anyone ????

[Ken W]

When I did my spray painting course at TAFE, the teacher said you always have to web rub the clear coat down with 1000 grit to get rid of the 'orange peel' then bring the surface back with finishing compound. Has worked with all the cars I've painted but its hard work getting rid of the last specs of peel.

Regards,

Ken W

 

[raver]

I agree great job Shane, you have got me all interested in getting into the 204.

Only problem is it's been a waste of time on one of those cars without proper spring suspension :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

 

[DoubleChevron]

Ok so I've just spent an hour outside trying to get the double sided tape of the back of the door strips .... How the bloody hell do you get that sh!t off :nownow:

There's 6strips there, I've peeled some of the tape off of two of them, the easiest way seems to be using your thumb nails until they break off.... They there's the adhesive and foam residue left... The only way to get that off appear to be to roll it into balls by exerting circular pressure on it with your thumb... Until your thumbs are red raw... Thinners doesn't really loosen it, razor blades don't tend to lift it (but do cut into the rubber strips well :disappr: ) So what's the trick guys, how do I remove the double sided tape... Why am I getting the feeling the bodyshops just replace the trim with new stuff to avoid trying to remove the remnants of tape

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[GreenBlood]

Ok so I've just spent an hour outside trying to get the double sided tape of the back of the door strips .... How the bloody hell do you get that sh!t off :nownow:

There's 6strips there, I've peeled some of the tape off of two of them, the easiest way seems to be using your thumb nails until they break off.... They there's the adhesive and foam residue left... The only way to get that off appear to be to roll it into balls by exerting circular pressure on it with your thumb... Until your thumbs are red raw... Thinners doesn't really loosen it, razor blades don't tend to lift it (but do cut into the rubber strips well :disappr: ) So what's the trick guys, how do I remove the double sided tape... Why am I getting the feeling the bodyshops just replace the trim with new stuff to avoid trying to remove the remnants of tape

seeya,
Shane L.

Have you tried heat Shane, just sneak Mrs DC's hair dryer apply local heat and you should be able to scrape the tape away??

Cheers
Chris

 

[smiffy1071]

Further to what GreenBlood has suggested, I'd recommend also using a butter knife, together with the hair dryer, preferably while the wife isn't there to see you doing it! john s

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Guys,

I'll give that a try, not to much heat though, as the strips are soft rubber

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

In an earlier life when I was working in my trade, I used to have to get those godawful stickers off Fridge doors that women seem obsessed with defacing things with. (No wonder their 'little darlings' grow up and graffiti everything in sight; it's what they were brought up with) and the cheapest way to get that crap off is with Turps. I have seen eucalyptus oil used, but that's a bit expensive and I wouldn't risk it with fresh paint, but Turps with the car parked in the shade and slapped on with a rag you'll find will soften it often enough to enable things to just peel off in one piece.
Wax and grease remover also will do the job but not quite up to Tuprs standard.


Alan S

 

[DoubleChevron]

I had another quick go at the tape today. The rubber strips melt at about the same temperature as the tape ... The butter knife worked surprisingly well. If I lifted an edge on the tape and using a firm downward pressure with a sawing motion the tape would cut away without damaging the strip. The remaining double tape was still goey making it hard to remove. I found wiping it with a turps soaked rag turned the remaing glue/foam hard allowing it to be scratched away with the butter knife.

It's bloody hard slow work... I reckon it'll be 30minutes a strip to clean :disappr:

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

It usually makes it go rubbery so it rolls off in balls.

You want to try to get it off some of those fridge doors; I've seen them even stick them on with bondcrete.............that was real fun!!:nownow: :cussing: :cussing: :cussing: :cussing: :crazy:


Alan S

 

[addo]

Bondcrete's just PVA glue. Surely you meant something else? Contact cement? Sikaflex?

 

[Alan S]

No I meant Bondcrete.
Sets rock hard on fridge doors and don't tell me it washes off in water; I had a guy treat my rainwater tank for big leaks and he made a plaster using Bondcrete as an adhesive/sealing medium and it's been sitting in water for 3 years and it's still stuck. Turps and the like just bounces off it and it's waterproof.


Alan S

 

[addo]

If it's a concrete tank, I'd normally use Silasec with either cement powder or sand/cement. I don't think Bondcrete's rated for potable water (the former is). Unless you get some tropical spec version?

I wonder how soaking the strips in Prepsol, totally immersed in a capped pipe, would work?

Or chilling - dry ice and flake the glue off. This works with tarry underbody paints. Whoops, I lurched back on topic.

Regards, Adam.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

I finally got 3 of them clean. I gave them a few coats of black K & H Bumper paint (they looked pretty tatty). The bumper paint works remarkably well ... If it scratches off were just back to the rubber, so I guess it can't hurt

The masking tape trick worked a treat. The strips are quite flexible so using the masking tape as a guide I got them on without the sagging slightly in the middle or running up/down hill Actuallly it was really easy as they are so flexible I could just start at one end and flex them slightly so only the bit I was lining up to apply would touch the door.

seeya
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

I finally got 3 of them clean. I gave them a few coats of black K & H Bumper paint (they looked pretty tatty). The bumper paint works remarkably well ... If it scratches off were just back to the rubber, so I guess it can't hurt

The masking tape trick worked a treat. The strips are quite flexible so using the masking tape as a guide I got them on without the sagging slightly in the middle or running up/down hill Actuallly it was really easy as they are so flexible I could just start at one end and flex them slightly so only the bit I was lining up to apply would touch the door.

seeya
Shane L.

Hi Guys,

I spent about 1hour today out there. I painted the door strips and window surround satin black, and painted the 'C' pillar trims with black bumper paint.

So .... Has anyone seen these trim strips before, I can't figure out how to get the bloody things back on (It didn't touch much effort to scratch the sh!t out of the paint trying to get them on though). They are supposed to be retained by the small plastic 'C' shaped clip (pictured). I'm thinking the best bet will be to bin the stupid plastic clips and tape the trims on with double sided tape

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

Sikaflex????


Alan S

 

[smiffy1071]

I think you put the clips on the car first, then put the trim on the clips. I've not done this before, but when I broke up my AXGT, it uses the same clips.
It was the only way I could see the put the body kit back on the car.
When I do the paint on my car, I will be leaving those on the car, and masking them!! john s

 

[addo]

John's correct. There's usually only one way up they go, too. (Found that one out refitting trim on an HQ Munro.)

A splodge of non-hardening sealant or heavy wax in the hole before the clip gets pushed in, then look to see which edge of the trim strip "leads" (hooks in first).

It may not go 100% to plan. Take heart, this happens to us all (I say to people that everyone kills a set of trim while learning). Bad things to do are getting impatient, and beating on it with a hammer and block of wood. A soft leather faced mallet might do at a pinch; sometimes you need that suddenness of impact to spread the trim momentarily so it pops over the clip. I try to use the heel of my palm and push firmly.

I'd have thought Alan would use tropical strength Bondcrete.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Guys,

I haven't damaged the strips (at all) so there's no problem there. The trims being rather sharp stainless steel will (and do) scratch the doors quite easily when trying to fit them.

I'll try Smiffys trick of clipping the little plastic clips to the door first and see what happens

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Alan S]

I'd have thought Alan would use tropical strength Bondcrete.

Cheers, Adam.

Spoken like a true man of the soil who's obviously never had to try to scrape it off a fridge door after a few years of it being there.:crazy: :crazy:

Alan S

 

[DoubleChevron]

I think you put the clips on the car first, then put the trim on the clips. I've not done this before, but when I broke up my AXGT, it uses the same clips.
It was the only way I could see the put the body kit back on the car.
When I do the paint on my car, I will be leaving those on the car, and masking them!! john s

Gee's smiffy, these strips are easy to remove with something like a pocket knife, I wouldn't even dream of trying to leave them on .... You'll *never* get them masked up well enough through the coats of undercoat, top coat, clear etc.... It'll end it tears for sure. They take 10minutes tops to remove, and you have probably discovered already how to refit them, so there's no issue

seeya,
Shane L.