Quick paint job anyone ????
- Thread starter DoubleChevron
- Start date
Ok, now lets be real. This car has been run on a shoe string for over 20years. My intension when it was painted 18years ago was in 3 or 4 years time.... Give it a bare metal respray with high quality activated 2 pack urethane coatings.... Would you believe life gets in the way 
The picnic shelf is loose.... and the paint crazed across the top of the bootlid
The plastic trim has fallen off the base of the bootlid (I still have it, I spotted it was about to fall off and pulled it off and put it in the boot)
the rear bumper and body is crunched where I backed into a post in a cheese factory carpark down in tassie. Seriously.... Who in the hell puts a metal post in the middle of a carpark that is lower than the bootlid height of a car
You will know its there when you hear the crunch.
I might have once .... maybe even twice managed to back up to a trailer without bashing it into the bumper.
There is normal marks around the car from stone chips and people opening car doors into it.
Its been to Queensland, south australia, NSW, Tasmania .... its weird driving it and not seeing two kids seats in the back when I look in the mirror.
The glass has fallen out of the mirror. the mirrors must be really soft plastic as the paint doesn't like to stay sticking to them.
The picnic shelf is loose.... and the paint crazed across the top of the bootlid
The plastic trim has fallen off the base of the bootlid (I still have it, I spotted it was about to fall off and pulled it off and put it in the boot)
the rear bumper and body is crunched where I backed into a post in a cheese factory carpark down in tassie. Seriously.... Who in the hell puts a metal post in the middle of a carpark that is lower than the bootlid height of a car
You will know its there when you hear the crunch.I might have once .... maybe even twice managed to back up to a trailer without bashing it into the bumper.
There is normal marks around the car from stone chips and people opening car doors into it.
Its been to Queensland, south australia, NSW, Tasmania .... its weird driving it and not seeing two kids seats in the back when I look in the mirror.
The glass has fallen out of the mirror. the mirrors must be really soft plastic as the paint doesn't like to stay sticking to them.
A few years ago I span the car 180degrees at highway speed towing the car trailer. It had a load of masonite sheeting on it that moved under all the tiedowns to the back of the trailer. No swaying, no instability, instantly backwards quicker than I could blink at about 90km/h. The car stayed on all 4 wheels, I realised immediately I was backwards and stood on the brakes for all I was worth. we slid for quite some distance, off the road and under some low hanging branches that creased the bonnet here. Other than 4 smoking trailer tyres ... and this on the bonnet, no damage done at all.
now the real problem. This is the horizontal panels on the car. its not easy to get a photo of, but the paint is full of crows feet.
that pressure pack black primer and paint on the external trim. Absolutely remarkable right? still looks quite reasonable.
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5 years ago I painted this Austin, for just over $100, with rattle cans from Bunnings.
The cream and metallic blue/green were awfully close to the original colours.
The gloss finish out of the cans was pretty impressive.
Ignore the "rust", that was just some "Aged Copper" paint dusted over the edges, then I clearcoated the whole thing.
I saw it for sale again last year. The hardware store paint had actually held up quite well.
The cream and metallic blue/green were awfully close to the original colours.
The gloss finish out of the cans was pretty impressive.
Ignore the "rust", that was just some "Aged Copper" paint dusted over the edges, then I clearcoated the whole thing.
I saw it for sale again last year. The hardware store paint had actually held up quite well.
Speaking of Farinas. I eyeballed our local VandenPlas Princess R in the pub car park yesterday. The driver states it is his daily driver and has been for many years. It looked very elegant with the square grille, deleted pointed fins and long rectangular ( Benz style ) tail lights.
Yes I should never have sold the A55 MK11 above.
It had zero, and I mean zero rust or bog in it, and all the stainless trim was perfect. Oh well.
When we had the wreckers in Tassie, Dad used to do the odd respray on a few cars to flip. Using jam! Yes we called it jam which was what we called enamel - with gloss off the gun. Sticks like shit to a blanket
The rattle cans I used from Bunnings were an acrylic enamal. The gloss was excellent and it was was fast drying, which was handy as I painted it in the driveway.
Unfortunately they don't keep that product range any more.
Agricultural enamel? not a high gloss but does the job. my paint supplier has recomended it to me for odd jobs
vice grip garage? I think he's about to paint one properly. Painting is just time. Only someone has painted a car understands the sheer hours involved. The better the final paint, the more hours that are put into it.I’ve watched YouTube videos dedicated to re-spraying cars with agricultural tractor enamel.
I'm not planning on painting the CX at the moment as it will be literally hundreds of hours of stripping and bodywork, even though the car is quite straight and rust free.
it looks amazing until you get up close and see how perished the paint has become. It is getting onto 40years old. I ran the kids to school in it this morning .... I didn't get two blocks and they were commenting on how comfortable the seats are ( they can't really remember the car even though they grew up in the back seat of it ... I guess the shitbox and boss womens car has done the majority of the driving the last 6 years).After 18 years it still looks better than cars I see every time I go to the supermarket.
Tractor paint/implement paint ... whatever you want to call it. That stuff is amazing, it stuck like merde to a blanket. It will dull off quite quickly compared ot modern paints.
I painted the shitbox with very cheap protec "single stage" or "common" paint. That is a single part activated urethane. It must be 4 years ? maybe longer since I painted it.
A few weeks back I kept have people (even work collegues) ask me what I've done to the car .... has it been painted? because it was so shiny. Nope, all I did was wash it so I could see out the windows when I was towing (if you haven't picked it ... I'm not really one for washing cars and keeping the shiny
).So that blue paint ... it will probably be as structurally sound as it is now when its the age of the CX's paint. as it chemically cures when the hardener is mixed. It'll probably be shiny like that each time I give it its annual wash for quite a few years.
The acrylic laquer on the CX ... everything damages it, wind, rain, tree sap, detergents, age, bird poop etc...
Prep and Painting. Two differents levels of effort. You can have Prep and I will do the Painting. Prep sucks. And don't use acrylic....!
Its all I could safely spray back then. The activated paints are extremely toxic!Prep and Painting. Two differents levels of effort. You can have Prep and I will do the Painting. Prep sucks. And don't use acrylic....!
What i do notice is some people apply body filler over bare metal.
It makes sense to use primer first .
Modern two-pack primers give incredible adhesion and metal protection.
I saw Harry's garage do a Lancia restoration with major rust repairs and body filler to metal.
Not perfect by any means.
It makes sense to use primer first .
Modern two-pack primers give incredible adhesion and metal protection.
I saw Harry's garage do a Lancia restoration with major rust repairs and body filler to metal.
Not perfect by any means.
Without the risk of starting WWiii, just read the directions on a tin of body filler that I have here and it says to remove old paint with a 30 to 40 grit disc to rough up the steel, then use solvent to remove and grease and grit from the surface. Does not say anything about priming the metal before applying body filler.
I can see where you are coming from with protecting the metal with a primer first. Body filler is designed to stick to metal not paint.
Also in professional restorations there is minimal body filler used as we know this stuff does migrate if put on thick.
only modern epoxy primers are suitable. you're supposed to go over bare metal
google "epoxy primer forum" or similar and you'll get this from 10 million different people
The best way to restore a car is probably to have it dipped/blasted then epoxy primed. Epoxy primer will protect the metal as well as the finished top coat ... and you can do you bodywork over the top of it.