Quick paint job anyone ????

[smiffy1071]

Shane I wish you did'nt have to drive that sweet machine everyday, to work, etc. that's what Holdens ,Fords and asian cars are for!

You could pick up a top notch Sigma (oil-smokescreen function included) for like $50, and use it for work. CX Turbo is just way too good to use as a daily driver

I know what you are saying, I learned the hard way!!!

 

[DoubleChevron]

Cars are made to be driven though ... And I really enjoy my daily drive to work & back ....

What's the point in owning a car your to scared to use... If your not going to use it, you might as well sell it (unless you just like looking at cars sitting in your shed ).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[raver]

Cars are made to be driven though ... And I really enjoy my daily drive to work & back ....

What's the point in owning a car your to scared to use... If your not going to use it, you might as well sell it (unless you just like looking at cars sitting in your shed ).

seeya,
Shane L.

I found by driving a 'Special' car everyday you lose that feeling of it being special , however driving it once or twice a week is a different story , for me anyway.

 

[DoubleChevron]

My biggest problem is the registration cost of any extra vehicles. Were about $500bux rego, $100+ insurance (limited use, shanons)...

I actually already have other cars I could register, there's a GS1220, BX19tri, CX C-matic, ID19 sitting up my backyard, all of which could be pushed back into service with a little work. In my fathers shed there's a CX2200 deisel wagon, traction and DS23 ie 5spd all of which could be pressed back into service too.... Registration being the deciding factor (Ok, the traction is way to good to use, the DS23 would fit 'banger' status it's body being knocked around, the CXwagon would be a perfect car to use around town, not to knocked about, yet far from perfect bodywise). Oh yeah, there's the 2cv too... That a good little car.... If they manage to bring in the new club rego rules we'll actually be able to register and use them

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

What grit have you got on there? Using any soap? Have you tried soaking the paper in hot water over a few hours? I say this because it looks pretty dry in one photo. A good soak really takes the bite out of the grit but it also removes the harsh random scratches almost completely.

Another trick if you are working up in grits is to finish in lines (not swirls) for the last grade (3M Ultra Fine for me). This will reveal any deeper scratches to be remedied - say if you had done a spot with P800 to level out and left some marks. The compound and mop will take care of these straight lines. If you're hand buffing only, I don't recommend this.

One thing I like about 2K is it sands deliciously. Acrylic is much more work; rush and it clogs the paper. I reckon if cars could feel, it'd be enjoying the intense massage you're giving it!

Cheers, Adam.

Thanks Adam,

I will try that when I've finished the car. I've just given the car a really quick rub down and cut. It will have swirl marks in it, but I'm not worried for now, I just need to get it looking decent so it doesn't attract attention. When I've finished the wheels spats, bumpers, grill, mirrors and trim bits, I'll spend a weekend and go over it as you have suggest. I've only rubbed it back with 1000grit, I'll get some 1500grit paper and give it a good rub down. I've also lost my course cutters and only have the 3M micro-fine cutters here (no harsh enough to remove heavy scratching.

I let you know how it works out in a few weeks (months ??) time when I get into some serious finishing.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Adam,

I'm going to whip the bonnet off and spray the back of it in the near future (I had to repair the front edge of it so the back will need to be resprayed).

I'm going to respray the top of the bonnet as well. I managed to flick a heap of shit onto it when I was spraying (must've pulled the air-hose up over it). I've noticed the bonnet has metilic 'lines' through the clear. Have you even struck this before. I think it's because the bonnet is so big I couldn't vary the angles I applied the metalic from (ie: side to side, then up 'n' down) to get an even distribution of the metalic particles. With the bonnet off the car I shouldn't have this problem I haven't had this problem with the roof or any of the other panels

I should have painted the C-matic first, that way I could learn the tricks to painting the metalic, rather than on the car I'm using... But hey, I should get the C-matic really good first go :roflmao: (it being nearly worthless and all ).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[addo]

There may be a technical term for them (this the drawback of being self-taught) but I would call them lap marks. Common enough.

The adverse conditions you worked under, probably contributed. Hot day - the paint dries faster out the nozzle - one tends to spray closer, which gives more of a "blast" effect in paint application.

I assumed you're running a gravity gun of nozzle 1.4 or 1.6.

Stuff I've found that helps:

•Work out your pattern, assuming you intend to cross at 90° between coats. You want to finish in the direction that the body contours "flow" in, the most - typically, along the car. So if three coats colour - along, then across, then along.

•Slowest thinner (AAA Slow, not AAA Normal) and retarder added if need be - you can spray from a greater distance. Reduce the basecoat to minimum viscosity.

•Slightly lower tip pressure so the paint is slower moving and spreads a little wider.

•Set your pot angle (if adjustable) so that you may hold the gun with the nozzle dead square to the work surface if possible. Human nature means we tend to skew this a fair amount so one side is closer (and gets sprayed harder).

•Finish with a mist coat that's primarily reducer and retarder. Maybe 30-40% basecoat by volume. Again this flows with the body styling. This is wafted on from a reasonable distance.

•You can try a "basefade" additive that's used for metallic repairs. This is a compatible clearcoat. Add 1/3, 2/3 by volume then mist the surface with the dregs well-thinned. The drawback is you end up with a couple of extra coats but it looks deeper and (luxuriously) richer.

I have mixed Dulon clearcoat in with Dulon metallics but this is not supported by their techs. (Neither is mixing furniture stain in the paint for that matter! )

As to the roof - I would do a vinyl one just to be different. Pretty dry out your way so rust isn't a big issue. Hope there's some snippets in the above which can get you sorted. Post back if it makes no sense.

Regards, Adam.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Adam,

yeah that makes a lot of sense. The flat colours I've painted have always come up a treat I've gotta learn metalic as I have two other 'restoration cases' here that are metalic too (CX C-matic, and DS21ie pallas).

Everything you have stated makes sense, I think your right, being 34degrees had the paint go off really fast with the final coat. The roof and the bonnet being the two panels that haven't come up really well (bloody biggest panels of course ... Oh well, gotta learn this stuff somehow :roflmao: :roflmao: ).

I'll give her some nice wet coats on a much cooler day, I think your right, that'll fix my problems (and being a horizontal, not verticle panel, runs shouldn't be a huge issue doing this either).

I'll let you know how I go, I may buy a little extra paint and redo the roof (don't overfill the gun this time :nownow: ), and do the bonnet seperatly to the car where it'll be nice and safe from me doing stupid things like dragging air hoses over it ).

I'll be really good at this by the time I do the C-matic

The guns a cheap but IMO fairly good Arnold HVLP gun. It's has two nozzles with it, I'm using the acrylic (not 2pack) set of tips. I think the biggest problem has been me trying to paint on such a hot day ... If metalic drys to quickly the metalic pigments tend to 'stand up'.

seeya
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

I forgot to mention .... Vinyl Roof I'd rather paint it with a brush and some house paint :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: I'm not really fond of the vinyl roof look (at all). Though the CX prestiges were sold with vinyl as an option (I think).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

BTW: Guys I'll take a photo of the bonnet tonight to demonstrate for those guys that are lost at what were talking about Bonnet == simple fix though Just 20minutes extra with a spray gun when I'm doing the back of it.

seeya
Shane L.

 

[smiffy1071]

I think a vinyl roof makes the car look tacky!!
john s

 

[nate]

This thread is the only thing that makes me wake up in the mornings.

Clearly the internets greatest thread.

 

[DoubleChevron]

This thread is the only thing that makes me wake up in the mornings.

Clearly the internets greatest thread.

Aren't you glad you can learn from my mistakes :roflmao: :roflmao: If it wasn't a metalic the roof and bonnet would have wet rubbed back to produce a perfect finish :disappr: Just as well I like a challenge

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[Pug_405_Mi16]

I agree,

Best thread on AF for quite a while....

Ben

This thread is the only thing that makes me wake up in the mornings.

Clearly the internets greatest thread.

 

[Alan S]

I agree,

Best thread on AF for quite a while....

Ben

Yep, put me in there too and when it reaches a logical conclusion, we just know that Shane is going to do the right thing and copy all this into the Archives of "Common faults and fixes" don't we?

Well Shane, don't we??? Hello, ya there Shane?


Alan S

 

[GreenBlood]

I agree,

Best thread on AF for quite a while....

Ben

Couldn't agree more, Gerry and I have certainly referenced your mistakes when working on the 2CV. Thanks too must go to addo (Simon) some really useful tips.

Shane the car is looking good, well done, it'll be a very long time before I would attempt metalic. You seem to have a very acceptable result with very little cost in actual dollars, starts to become realistic when you put a tradespersons(PC) hourly rate on your time, but that does demonstrate a huge saving if you are prepared to put in the hard yards yourself - good onya'

Cheers
Chris

 

[Haakon]

Looking good Shane You've done well.

This thread is bringing back several memories of painting the 504 I restored. Should have taken a few piccies. I found when doing all the prep work that it was a pandoras box - there is always one little bit more to do, one little bit more to get right. It seemed to never end!! Ended up stripping the car to a rolling shell, to avoid over spray and minimise masking. All glass out, bumpers off, door handles out etc etc. LOTS of time spent on that.... Did the boot lid, scuttle panel and bonnet off the car, making sure to spray around the lip of the edge, and this allowed me to paint the bonnet and boot channels for a neat look. Also did the nose cone (guards and front panels) off the car seperatly.

I made a little booth in the double garage with a whole lot of black plastic sheeting from bunnings. Wet the floor to keep dust down.

I used a cheap little compressor borrowed from a mate and a little no name gun with a suction feed bottle thingy.

I did'nt encounter any problems with the metallic, once I got the hang of spraying it evenly to keep the grains all pointing the same way. A few times had to respray a section after it dryed because of runs....

I was told you have to put the clear on within hours of the colour going on, or it wont stick properly. So I had to get the colour right first whack. Took a bit of experimentation to get the thinner mix right - cant remember what i ended up doing on that...

The thing I am curious about is that when the clear went on, it came up nice and glossy off the gun. I think I put about 3 coats of clear on it. I never did get around to polishing it, and it looked pretty damn good I reckon. I certainly never considered the wet rubbing business you have done. All mine would have needed was a light cutting polish and a buff, but it certainly had a good deep gloss anyway. I thought that was the way it was done??

 

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Hakon,

yours sounds perfect, my problem was I kept getting it on to dry because of the heat.

My experiance with wet rubbing is the same as Adams, you guys probably think he's being really anal above. I'm about to demonstrate why I'm so p!$$ed with myself for not preparing the shed properly for painting (and bloody dripping on the roof).

Remember Addo saying above it looks dry and scratchy, I'd wet rubbed the bonnet and roof with 800grit then 1000grit.... Not worrying to much about how scratchy it was ('cos I'd realised it'd probably be repainted anyway). He's another angle in the light, we have all seen cars that look very shiny, yet amazingly swirly/scratchy in the sun .... That's the bonnet of my car:

These are the lines that I found under the clear:

However with the front guard, the paint will be close enough(not perfect mind you but the standard I'm happy with).... I wet rubbed it back with some really worn, well soaked 1000grit wet 'n' dry

Notice even though it's been wet rubbed, it just looks dull all over, yet not scratchy.... Obviously it's slightly more time consuming than using some nice fresh sharp 800 and 1000grit paper.

Yes, this really is the same panel you were looking at in the previous picture, just a really quick cut with a buffing machine...

me happy with the standard of the finish.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[GreenBlood]

Loving your work :>)

Ahh Shane, I can see why the big grin in that last pic, that looks sensational

I haven't painted for about 15 years or more - but back then the advice was to leave the final wet sanding and buffing for at least a week, more if possible. The resulting shine would last, as most of the solvents would have evaporated, is this no longer the case with current paints??

Can't wait to see the whole car back together and finished, you must be thrilled :wink2:

Cheers
Chris

 

[gibgib]

Couldn't agree more, Gerry and I have certainly referenced your mistakes when working on the 2CV. Thanks too must go to addo (Simon) some really useful tips.

Cheers
Chris

There's a bit of Shane said this/ did this with the 2CV preparation

The result paint job gets the chocolates!
Although I am a tough critic & want to see it cleaned, polished & all together again

When you look back to your first post in this thread you indicate it would be Winter or even Summer completion. You have blitzed that :headbang: