My R12 POS Arrived!

bowie said:
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!

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Thank you mystery Ute / high bumper bared 4WD. :mad:

Pull into my street coming home from work and I'm like.. wait a second! *sigh*



At least they didn't destroy the indicator globe. That's a plus. And I suppose that makes up my mind about the parking stripes. :p
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Sort of looks like the door has been opened too far causing the guard to buckle in...

What a shame for such a good looking car.
 
That was an older accident true. The guard has been repaired at one stage, I was going to get the door sorted, but now I'll do both.
 
So finally had a sunny afternoon to myself.

Right time to start getting it sorted for dam rego.

Just to recap, need;

-Steering dampening rubber
-Rear control arm bushes
-High Beam
-Windscreen wiper jets
-But of rust cut out of the bonnet lid. Can't understand how water managed to pool there??

Anyway, with Steering rubber in hand lets go!

Managed to get the first two bolts out easily enough and now I'm left looking at these going whaaaaaa?

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Are these.. rivets??

Pushing and scratching on them they are going no where. To the HAYNES!

pg 144, Item 6. ....(Rivets may have been used as original equipment, bolts are supplied with the repair kit)

Is it really telling me the steering rubber hasn't ever been changed? And now I have to cut, drill, burn, hammer these out?? :blackeye:

Feeling bested, best go look at those window jets. Happily the pipes are all in tact, and the hand pump inside still sees to work! Blowing the sh1t out of it and cleaning the jets, 1 is now working, 1 soaking in wd40 overnight, and I reckon I'll be ok. The water bottle had cracked of course, I'll fit a 600mm something in there and be done with it.

Moving on the drains.. Taking the sill off there was a bunch of rotting earth in there. Expecting to find rust I seeped away what I could before attaching it with the hose. Oh, my preferred drain cleaning method is of course to pour water at it first, the poke the drains with a screw driver until all the crap is clear and we are ok. (can you see where this is going)

My interior carpet is now of course hanging inside the shed drying after 5+L of water got into the cabin via the cabin blower.

Probably ruined that too.. I've just created another potential fire hazed. Who's idea was it to lay the blower fan open, and to have it exposed like this? it's only marginally hirer the corner drain.. :blackeye:

But good news, there isn't any rust in the floor (I had been to scared to look)

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Bad news, the previous owner just left some live cable rattling against the door trim. Which is now wet and drying.. and kinda looks like it's going all the way to the back as if it wants to power a set of 6x9's Heaven help me!

Anyway after all this excitement I didn't get a chance to try and fail at fitting the rear control arms. Nor have I had the light switch out yet to clean / assess it. But at least my drains are clean! ;)
 
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Are you sure there's not proper rust under the bituminous soundproofing sheets?
 
Shhhhhhhhhh!

No I'm not sure, but your right. I should check it out before I waste anymore time on it.

And as for removing these rivets... :S a small spinning disc wheel of death? I'm not sure how one can chisel against the rubber.
 
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oooooooh so that's why the drains under the windscreen are slow.. Because those rubber extension valves which made it so are just that! One way valves.

I'll be putting them back on shortly to ensure I don't exhaust leak myself into a cabin stupor
 
Amazing how many R10s I see with the original balljoints which were riveted on in a similar manner.
KB
 
Hello again

Is there an elegant solution that has been used previous to light the license plate once one removes the rear bumper bar? Or have you lot just "forgotten" to correct it once removed..

i figure something discreet like this might look a treat

Click
 
I've got 4 of those led bolts for my R12. I only chopped the middle section of bar front and rear (behind the over riders) on mine, but had the same dilema. My led's are black.
 
I was also going to suggest looking at the LED options at motorcycle accessories place - do you have an MCA in Melbourne (a shop called MCA - motorcycle accessories warehouse).

I had a couple of the LED bolts that mistereno mentions. They direct the light downwards (or upwards depending on how you face them) and would be an elegant solution.
 
Ah cheers guys. I was worried those little things were just to dim / not enough spread etc etc. Sound's like they will do fine. :)

Cheers.
 
I think my POS would be good at this!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_wo7w-vfOQ

Stationary camera of a couple of slow corners in a wet tight street circuit.

Skip to 2m10 to see an r12 having a go. (but don't, its better to watch from the start :p) Few alpines to for those of that persuasion.. And good audio really.

As usual, the escorts look the cleanest.
 
Oh more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XckJ96gLzac

1m:59 - Nice Alpine.
2m:55 - R5
3m:38 - 504 Coupe
4m:28 - R12
5m:20 - Volvo?
5m:56 - R12 (briefly)
6m:25 - 504 Coupe again
8m:20 - Alpine
9m:40 - R12
9m:50 - R5
10m:41 - R12

Yeah need to pull my finger out.
 
I'm trying to get to replace the rear trailing arm, and of course the handbrake cable passes through it.

So out comes the Haynes and it directs me to remove the Hub to gain access to the cable.

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Now I didn't know what I'd find here but I had hoped there was some way to release the cable so I can pull it back through the trailing arm..

The cable end appears to be crimped on, and It doesn't look like the entire thing will pass through the gab in the rear of the hub.

How do I.. undo this? :blackeye:
 
Hi Bowie

Its pretty easy, you need to release the hand brake, get under the car and slacken off the hand brake adjuster. with a pair of pliers slide the spring that surrounds the cable to the front of the car so to expose the cable underneath. You will need to expose about an inch of cable. Get another pair or pliers and grab the hand brake cable and slide the cable to the rear of the car and unhook the cable out of the lever.

After that you will need a hammer and a drift to knock out the serrated outer through the backing plate.

I hope you understand what I'm getting at.
 
So the cable terminates if you will as it enters and then is joined within that spring mechanism?


But as it was getting dark and I didn't want to break anything. I spent waaaaaaaaaaaay to much time removing the bumpers.. Well the front to be honest. May I never never never have to put it back on.

I thought I'd just remove the radiator to get at that bolt that is covered, but couldn't get to the nut on the other side of the radiator bolt. I mean the bolt head was spinning but I wasn't sure how I could get it back it if the nut fell so plan b)

Jam a spanner down in there on the bumper bar bolt as best I could and spring the bolt head from the outside.. Anyway a boring amount of time later any my POS R12 looks sick :D

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I've always wanted a car without bumper bars :tongue: And yes it looks proper ugly without the headlight and radiator trim. I wanted to get at that black panel behind to paint so it will stay off for the while. The exhaust side bumper hanger remains as I think a small spot light will be useful for reversing in the scrub.. If it ever gets there.

Anyway that's not even the most exciting thing. After spending all that time previous clearing out those gutters it was time to install a guard to stop leaves and sh1t getting in there again!

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Garden fence mesh to the rescue! I had a bit left so thought I should correct the plastic that eroded under the pillar vents some time ago

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So Ghetto :tongue:

Anyway she is no closer to rego after spending a day in the yard but it made me feel better.
 
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