Absolutely!You probbably only need to be that accurate to set cam timing etc.....
Absolutely!You probbably only need to be that accurate to set cam timing etc.....
Yes..... a brief lesson on how coil and points work.Sven,
I think you would be wanting the points to be starting to open at TDC on the power stroke when the engine is turning the right way. It is when the points open that the current in the coil primary is interrupted and the HV is generated in the secondary to cause a spark in the plug in cylinder one. So at TDC on number one with both valves having been completely closed for many degrees, the points should be just starting to open, and the rotor cap should be pointing to the lead on the distributor cap that is connected to the spark plug on cylinder 1.
Cheers, Ken
Thanks Faulksy. Yep, will recheck the timing again.It's looking great Sven!
You might want to recheck the static timing now the bellhousing is in place by putting a pin into the timing hole. Only the post '71 cars use TDC as the timing point, prior to that the notch in the flywheel is I think 12° BTDC for non-EFI cars.
Give me a shout if you get stuck with the brakes. I've got the tool for adjusting them.
Yes, there were two types of foam available - the yellow one is the ‘better Dunlop” foam, the grey one standard upholstery foam. The supplier didn’t have the yellow one in 125mm thick so I went for the normal one and added a 50mm layer of Dunlop to it.Can I quickly drag you back to your seats Sven? The photo in post 428 show two different colours - and so possibly two different thicknesses? So in addition to the wadding, are you using two different types/ densities of foam please?
Not sure what the tip of 2129 looks like, but as I don’t have an access problem (ie doing it on the work bench) I can probably find a widget that does the job.I've definitely got the splined tool for adjusting the clockwork mechanism.
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Don't remember seeing the rear brake tool but I can go hunting through the tub of tools someone gave me. I'm assuming it's this contraption.
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It will have to wait till we are out of jail next weekend although the way things are going it may be longer.
I had no idea fuel senders were different for a '64. You never stop learning. I'll have to keep that little nugget tucked away for later use. If it's that way for the Aus market cars, chances are pretty good it's that way for all of them.Maybe that is the sender from the later car...... i think it was a '70 D Super.
Maybe the system was changed at some point.
The sender simply provides an adjustable resistance to earth.......
Maybe the early one was reverse to later..... ie one had max resistance at full, the other at empty.
Could you remount the sender coil, the other way round..... drill a mounting hole in the opposite face.....
Or could you bend the float arm, the other way, so its action is reversed.
Or transplant the pick-up coil (from the other early one) into your old worn one.
OR......ask me to find a better early one.
I'm sure i have a few more to try, but they might be suffering from poor storage conditions.......
Butercup bob also makes the handbrake tool. You shouldn't need it in this case as you have the calipers to bits, so will have wound the adjuster in by hand.I've definitely got the splined tool for adjusting the clockwork mechanism.
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Don't remember seeing the rear brake tool but I can go hunting through the tub of tools someone gave me. I'm assuming it's this contraption.
View attachment 133409
It will have to wait till we are out of jail next weekend although the way things are going it may be longer.
I am sure I will come up with something. What’s the right clearance between the shoes and the drum? Is 1mm sufficient?I made a rear brake setting gauge from an old drum.
Leaving the centre circle intact, I cut away all of the drum rim except for a radial finger about 50mm wide.