I suspect another trip to Jamie's is called-for - to look at his Ambulance?
My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari
- Thread starter bleudanube
- Start date
Just magic. Loving this!
Last edited:
Thanks Sven. Those will actually be for the benefit of Badabec - a friend of mine here in the UK on his own 'safari' adventure.
The replacement parcel from Citrotoon with the RHD front carpet and bulkhead vinyl arrived. The vinyl didn’t need much trimming, only the additional padding needed to be glued on and it then fit quite well.
That also enabled me to finish the driver side heater hose and USB plug and the lower dash panel.
I attached the USB plug with a hose clamp under the dash, which meant I didn’t have to cut any holes for it. Bill, it works well! That way I can run my phone and a speaker as well if I want to.
Next I prepared all the parts needed for the door cards, so they are ready to go to the trimmer.
Pulling out 100s of staples is always fun... but I had to make up new door cards, So I had to strip the old cards and also repair one of the arm rests which had some cigarette damage.
Bob has found me the missing driver door pocket and trim strip and also a replacement fuel sender - thanks Bob (again).
Using 3.2mm Masonite worked well - a pretty easy job. Screw two sheets together and start cutting and drilling. That way the two are exactly the same.
I am getting a bit annoyed with my Dutch mates at Citrotoon - the (now correct RHD) front carpet is too narrow... by 25mm. The rear is perfect at 1250mm, the front 1225mm... not good! Let’s see what excuse they have this time...
The underlay foam is also a tad disappointing... the front doesn’t fit. Yes I can trim the pieces, but that’s not the idea when you spend good money on this. It seems to be a LHD set (again)... and generally looks a bit poxy - maybe I don’t use the underlay at all as it very thick and fouls on the heater outlet and lid stops in the rear as well. We will see...
To prep the chairs for the trimmers I pulled the old vinyl off. The foam is a bit tatty in some areas and the springs are a tad saggy, especially the driver seat needs “boosting” to give it some structure back.
Then I had a go at the rear bench... crikey, what a rusty mess they are. The springs and padding are all rooted. So, all I will be using are the bottom frames and then build up the pads from foam, like the strapotins.
The front seat rear panels are easy. Cut new fabric and glue it on. The ash tray needs a repaint and clean up of course.
Next weekend will be an interesting one: All the engine parts are cleaned and ready. Got some Plastigauge strips to double check the bearing clearances and also the 0.1mm strip for the bearing holder clearance.
still have to check the ring gaps in the barrels - was it 0.25mm min? Trying to find the right measurement.
Sven
That also enabled me to finish the driver side heater hose and USB plug and the lower dash panel.
I attached the USB plug with a hose clamp under the dash, which meant I didn’t have to cut any holes for it. Bill, it works well! That way I can run my phone and a speaker as well if I want to.
Next I prepared all the parts needed for the door cards, so they are ready to go to the trimmer.
Pulling out 100s of staples is always fun... but I had to make up new door cards, So I had to strip the old cards and also repair one of the arm rests which had some cigarette damage.
Bob has found me the missing driver door pocket and trim strip and also a replacement fuel sender - thanks Bob (again).
Using 3.2mm Masonite worked well - a pretty easy job. Screw two sheets together and start cutting and drilling. That way the two are exactly the same.
I am getting a bit annoyed with my Dutch mates at Citrotoon - the (now correct RHD) front carpet is too narrow... by 25mm. The rear is perfect at 1250mm, the front 1225mm... not good! Let’s see what excuse they have this time...
The underlay foam is also a tad disappointing... the front doesn’t fit. Yes I can trim the pieces, but that’s not the idea when you spend good money on this. It seems to be a LHD set (again)... and generally looks a bit poxy - maybe I don’t use the underlay at all as it very thick and fouls on the heater outlet and lid stops in the rear as well. We will see...
To prep the chairs for the trimmers I pulled the old vinyl off. The foam is a bit tatty in some areas and the springs are a tad saggy, especially the driver seat needs “boosting” to give it some structure back.
Then I had a go at the rear bench... crikey, what a rusty mess they are. The springs and padding are all rooted. So, all I will be using are the bottom frames and then build up the pads from foam, like the strapotins.
The front seat rear panels are easy. Cut new fabric and glue it on. The ash tray needs a repaint and clean up of course.
Next weekend will be an interesting one: All the engine parts are cleaned and ready. Got some Plastigauge strips to double check the bearing clearances and also the 0.1mm strip for the bearing holder clearance.
still have to check the ring gaps in the barrels - was it 0.25mm min? Trying to find the right measurement.
Sven
You have cleaned out the big end chambers in the crank, haven't you?
The centrifugal oil cleaners are often close to blocking up.
The centrifugal oil cleaners are often close to blocking up.
Thanks for the pictures, when I get some time I'll assemble mine and see what is wrong.
I used synthetic horsehair on the spring bases of all my seats to bulk them up. I also made sure all the metal connecting links in the springs were tight, some had opened up a bit.
On my DSuper5, the underlay is just sound deadening felt. On the Safari, the very thick foam with holes in it. I shall be sticking to sound deadening felt.
I used synthetic horsehair on the spring bases of all my seats to bulk them up. I also made sure all the metal connecting links in the springs were tight, some had opened up a bit.
On my DSuper5, the underlay is just sound deadening felt. On the Safari, the very thick foam with holes in it. I shall be sticking to sound deadening felt.
Regarding your floor covering issues…
I don’t believe any of the European suppliers have RHD foam underlay. The easiest solution is to use it upside down. This will put the moulded pieces with the holes facing up but will keep the thicker edge to the outside. You may want to glue them to the carpet, so the holes don’t become sand traps.
Depending on how retro you want to be, there is an effective alternative here https://www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner. A black vinyl ‘shadow line at the edge of the short carpet shouldn’t be as obvious.
If you think you can safely lift the inside face of the sill lining you could pack it out with the sound deadener you have used elsewhere.
I have the opposite problem in that I used the Pallas dampening ‘felt’ mat for the sill inside. At about 10 mm thick this makes the carpet oversize, producing a small but visible hump in the middle of the carpet. The original, for the DS Pallas at least, appears to be tar impregnated cardboard about 2 mm thick. It looks like your carpet and mine were cut to that spec.
David
I don’t believe any of the European suppliers have RHD foam underlay. The easiest solution is to use it upside down. This will put the moulded pieces with the holes facing up but will keep the thicker edge to the outside. You may want to glue them to the carpet, so the holes don’t become sand traps.
Depending on how retro you want to be, there is an effective alternative here https://www.carbuilders.com.au/mass-noise-liner. A black vinyl ‘shadow line at the edge of the short carpet shouldn’t be as obvious.
If you think you can safely lift the inside face of the sill lining you could pack it out with the sound deadener you have used elsewhere.
I have the opposite problem in that I used the Pallas dampening ‘felt’ mat for the sill inside. At about 10 mm thick this makes the carpet oversize, producing a small but visible hump in the middle of the carpet. The original, for the DS Pallas at least, appears to be tar impregnated cardboard about 2 mm thick. It looks like your carpet and mine were cut to that spec.
David
I am getting a bit annoyed with my Dutch mates at Citrotoon - the (now correct RHD) front carpet is too narrow... by 25mm.
Like I've always said- it's a restoration. They do that. However, with relatively easy access to RHD cars and patterns, you would think that kind of a mistake would happen only once, if at all.
Was Buttercup Bob able to find the location for that dash brace?
I'm glad the USB wiring worked out. I was a little worried it maybe wouldn't.
Like I've always said- it's a restoration. They do that. However, with relatively easy access to RHD cars and patterns, you would think that kind of a mistake would happen only once, if at all.
Was Buttercup Bob able to find the location for that dash brace?
I'm glad the USB wiring worked out. I was a little worried it maybe wouldn't.
You're not alone Sven. There always seems to be problems with the carpet and interior trim when it come to RHD. The first time I did my car, they sent out half the carpet set in a light grey and half in a dark grey cut to the wrong pattern. The second time the carpet was fine but the foam undelay was for LHD. On both occasions they fixed the error and new bits arrived within a week. Don't get me started on the doorcards........
It took quite a few emails to get the idea of a RHD EFI pallas accross to the guys in Europe.
It took quite a few emails to get the idea of a RHD EFI pallas accross to the guys in Europe.
Trick question? Maybe not... I cleaned all the holes and blown compressed air through it. Are the chambers under the weights? Haven’t taken them off, but can of course.
can you explain your comment a little more?
Bob, checked the manual - got it now. They are behind the 12mm Allan key plugs, right. Will remove and clean. Thanks for reminding me.
Finished a very busy weekend... interior and engine assembly work.
I sent the front seats and door card materials off to the trimmer, but thought I have a go at the strapotins and back seat sections.
I bought a 20mm high density foam and a 50mm seat foam plus some of the gap filling wadding foam.
to cut the radii I lent an electric carving knife from the neighbours - works pretty well, especially on small sections.
To plump up the covers I stapled the filler foam onto the pad and added a layer on top.
the edges were strengthened with a strip of vinyl and then crimped to the steel frame with hog ties.
The backrest was done in a similar way: foam pad, wadding and then folded into the bottom of the back rest onto the hooks that are inside the frame.
The result has been fantastic - the colour works really well with the grey of the body work and will be a great combination with the bleu D’Orient.
The backrest for the rear seat was a bit trickier as I had to carve off a large wedge. The knife got to its limits - never carved that much meat in its life
.
I had to cut it in blocks as the knife doesn’t reach that far. But it worked ok. Slow and steady wins the race. Once the wadding was stapled around it it was nice and smooth.
Cutting all the springs off and using the bottom frame only was the right decision. The springs would have been horribly creaky and saggy.
The pad is super soft, plump and the velour fabric complements it very well.
I didn’t get to the lower seat pad - next weekend. The next 10 photos are of the engine...
I sent the front seats and door card materials off to the trimmer, but thought I have a go at the strapotins and back seat sections.
I bought a 20mm high density foam and a 50mm seat foam plus some of the gap filling wadding foam.
to cut the radii I lent an electric carving knife from the neighbours - works pretty well, especially on small sections.
To plump up the covers I stapled the filler foam onto the pad and added a layer on top.
the edges were strengthened with a strip of vinyl and then crimped to the steel frame with hog ties.
The backrest was done in a similar way: foam pad, wadding and then folded into the bottom of the back rest onto the hooks that are inside the frame.
The result has been fantastic - the colour works really well with the grey of the body work and will be a great combination with the bleu D’Orient.
The backrest for the rear seat was a bit trickier as I had to carve off a large wedge. The knife got to its limits - never carved that much meat in its life
. I had to cut it in blocks as the knife doesn’t reach that far. But it worked ok. Slow and steady wins the race. Once the wadding was stapled around it it was nice and smooth.
Cutting all the springs off and using the bottom frame only was the right decision. The springs would have been horribly creaky and saggy.
The pad is super soft, plump and the velour fabric complements it very well.
I didn’t get to the lower seat pad - next weekend. The next 10 photos are of the engine...
Today was engine assembly day... it was great to get help from Lee, a mate of mine who is also restoring a DS.
first job was to install the new liners. Placed the paper gasket and slipped the liners in place. Installed washers to hold them in place.
checking the end float was a little trickier. There were two shims... using two the end float was about 0.15mm, about 0.06mm too much. Removing one shim made the crankshaft too tight - couldn’t turn the crank.... the end float should be 0.03 to 0.09mm. So, after lengthy deliberations we left it at two shims on which the engine had been running before.
The alignment of the oil thrower gap was also an interesting step. I bought some 0.05mm shim stock, so I doubled it up to build up the correct 0.1mm even gap of the housing around the oil thrower.
using flexigage for the first time confirmed the crank bearing gap at 0.05 to 0.08mm. Pretty close to the required 0.06mm.
nice new pistons and rings and crank bearing shells will (hopefully) ensure many years of reliable motoring. The engine had been refurbished some time ago as the bearings for crank and con rods are 0.5mm undesized
All torqued up and ready for the oil pump.... as expected it took a few attempts to get the distributor pinion correctly aligned, but even more painful was trying to connect the oils feed line - the sucker’s threads just didn’t want to grab. Anyway, after a bit of persuading, it all fit together well.
Bottom end all done. Happy chaps. Easier with a helping hand.
Aligning the crank, camshaft and the timing chain wasn’t too much of an issue.
Adding the oil pan however was probably the hardest job... the new cork seals are that stiff that it took a fair bit of persuading to get all the screws in and tighten it up and close the gap. I used a decent amount of gasket sealant in all tricky corners and flanges - hopefully it won’t leak.
but you can see why most people would have struggled to clean the oil pump/filters - engine out job to take the oil pan off ... unbelievably silly design - and really unnecessary.
So, onto the top end.
the head has been refurbished with new guides, valve seats and blasted and skimmed
the valve gear went together without a hitch. Still have to set the valve gaps.
a good days work. Our backs were a bit sore at the end. It’s a heavy bugger after all when all the bits are installed.
Next step will be the distributor, gearbox and ancillary gear. Then it can go back into the car! Another milestone achieved.
Sven
first job was to install the new liners. Placed the paper gasket and slipped the liners in place. Installed washers to hold them in place.
checking the end float was a little trickier. There were two shims... using two the end float was about 0.15mm, about 0.06mm too much. Removing one shim made the crankshaft too tight - couldn’t turn the crank.... the end float should be 0.03 to 0.09mm. So, after lengthy deliberations we left it at two shims on which the engine had been running before.
The alignment of the oil thrower gap was also an interesting step. I bought some 0.05mm shim stock, so I doubled it up to build up the correct 0.1mm even gap of the housing around the oil thrower.
using flexigage for the first time confirmed the crank bearing gap at 0.05 to 0.08mm. Pretty close to the required 0.06mm.
nice new pistons and rings and crank bearing shells will (hopefully) ensure many years of reliable motoring. The engine had been refurbished some time ago as the bearings for crank and con rods are 0.5mm undesized
All torqued up and ready for the oil pump.... as expected it took a few attempts to get the distributor pinion correctly aligned, but even more painful was trying to connect the oils feed line - the sucker’s threads just didn’t want to grab. Anyway, after a bit of persuading, it all fit together well.
Bottom end all done. Happy chaps. Easier with a helping hand.
Aligning the crank, camshaft and the timing chain wasn’t too much of an issue.
Adding the oil pan however was probably the hardest job... the new cork seals are that stiff that it took a fair bit of persuading to get all the screws in and tighten it up and close the gap. I used a decent amount of gasket sealant in all tricky corners and flanges - hopefully it won’t leak.
but you can see why most people would have struggled to clean the oil pump/filters - engine out job to take the oil pan off ... unbelievably silly design - and really unnecessary.
So, onto the top end.
the head has been refurbished with new guides, valve seats and blasted and skimmed
the valve gear went together without a hitch. Still have to set the valve gaps.
a good days work. Our backs were a bit sore at the end. It’s a heavy bugger after all when all the bits are installed.
Next step will be the distributor, gearbox and ancillary gear. Then it can go back into the car! Another milestone achieved.
Sven
At this pace, may I assume the car will be done about the middle of July? I wish I could travel and see it in person. 
I have one concern. In the photograph of the crank installed, I don't see the sump gasket in place. I believe you should assemble the sump gasket to the block so that the cork ends are actually underneath the #1 and #3 main bearing caps. If you don't do it this way, you will have oil leaks front and back (don't ask me how I know this)...
It just isn’t on the photos John. The gaskets are in place and under the bearing caps , plus sealant to hopefully keep all the oil in - but I am a bit nervous as the cork gasket strips that sit over the bearing housings needed a bit of trimming (they were a little too long) and a fair amount of force from tightening the sump screws to press the ridge from the sump into the cork.... I hope we did it correctly. Would be a bugger to find it leaking...
Did you line up the flywheel end of the block with the flywheel end of the sump? I didn't align mine properly and had to take the sump off again and re-seal so that the gearbox would mate with block and sump.
You're going to need a new project soon at the rate this going!
Yes, you are embarrassing me, I’ve only just finished bodywork ready to get stuck into the mechanicals and you pulled it all apart and back together in a weekend!