My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

I saw that conversion kit. Yes, I would lose the foldable bench, but would gain the nice plush rear bench of the sedans - the foldable seat squabs are spring cushions, not Dunlopillo foam, which is much nicer to sit on.

Anyway, haven’t made up my mind yet. Maybe I find a Dunlopillo bench and somehow modify it into the foldable bench shape!?

anyone any comment on gold versus silver fasteners? What was standard in 64?
 
bleudanube said:
Question: were most of the bolts and nuts gold plated on the second nose cars or silver? There seem to be more silver fasteners on this model than on my previous 1970 DSuper?
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anyone out there who knows? At the moment I am thinking: all metric nuts and bolts will be gold plated, all metal screws silver.

Sven
 
Hmmmm, not sure this is 100% right as some parts are/were definitely gold. But more of the common bolts seem to have been silver...And some of the parts that were silver on the 70s model appear to have been black, like the covers of the height correctors.

I do like the gold look. Freshens it up a bit and provides a bit of bling :)
 
Hi Sven
I don’t think it was that strategic. Very hard to know what was silver and what was gold. For an early car like yours silver maybe the way to go but what ever makes you happy. :) There comes a point where you just have to go one way or another. I have about 30 tubs of all the different fasteners in gold, replicating that in silver would mean 60 tubs and the decision process of making your mind up whether this bolt was gold or silver would drive you bonkers and add years to the restoration. 8-D
Kind regards
Mark :)


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Not enough progress over the past two weeks... had to spend a bit of time on the Porsche to finish it off after the new windscreen was installed.

I have now pretty much sorted all parts into what needs to be electroplated (gold & silver), powdercoat black and gray, General Parts to be painted and then a whole pile that needs scrubbing and degreasing - not looking forward to that! A few parts need to be repaired and welded up and quite a few needed panel beating: especially some of the covers for the hydraulic parts in the wheel wells were pretty banged up - am getting better at using the dolly and hammers! Very satisfying to bring a crumbled mess back from the dead...

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have been thinking through the chassis resto a bit more: what are people’s thoughts on sand/media blasting the outside and then use Eastwood internal frame coating for all the internal hollow sections (pillars, inner sills, rear arches,etc). Apparently the stuff is very good and converts and coats any internal rust so it doesn’t spread further. Anyone ever used it?

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More next weekend. Sven
 
Hi Sven
I’ve not used the product.
I have always used clean engine oil followed up with cavity wax which has served me well. Wicks into all the small spaces and never goes hard. I think you’ll find you will end up accessing many of the box sections as part of the chassis resto. I’ve just used rust converter and zinc rich primer when I’ve painted box sections as part of repairs.
Kind regards
Mark :)


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Forgot how filthy grinding and cutting out old metal and rust is.... :wink2:

but first there were a few parts that needed welding up a few holes that were added over the years. So I finally got to put my new welder to work - I am running on flux wire. Worked pretty well. Even the really thin metal was successful thanks to a block of heat sink copper I got.

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And then it was time to tackle the chassis. Over the years the floor pan and inner sills were patched up badly. Someone just added patches of 1.0mm plates over the top. So I slowly chopped out those patches, and the floor pan in the passenger footwell. Mindful that I don’t weaken the chassis too much. In some areas I was able to drill out the spot welds, in others I had to cut through four layers of metal - a nice way to create more rot.

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A fair amount of crud and debris in the inner sills - always wonder how it gets into there....

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The front left jacking point is pretty much gone, as are parts of the wheel arch plate, inner sill, gussets and footwell plate... it will be a nice Tetris job to reconstruct and replace the panels. The right hand driver’s footwell is in similar condition, although the jacking point appears ok. Anyway, that’s for another time...

Also a question for the ID knowledgeables:

Are the glovebox handle and switch bezels on a 64 gold or chrome? The choke bezel I have is chrome, but I think Gold is actually correct. So, is there a way to rechrome parts in Gold? Or is there another, earlier model that is golden? Also: The golden handle I have is damaged, someone drilled two holes into it... would anyone have an undamaged one by any chance?

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Sven
 
Might have found the answer on nuanciers: Gold since 1962 and my choke might be a newer model...

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Yah. There is website called HD19. Fr . The writer went through converting a DS19BVH to LHM. For some reason, his last post was April 2013. But most everything is there for the conversion. I'll have a poke around and see if I can come up with the web address.

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Don’t you love rust... not!

the more you dig the more rust and crappy metal you find. But how far do you go? Got to start putting it back together before chopping out more, otherwise I lose all the reference points. The Safaris seem to have secondary strengthening on the outer floor pan and sills - correct? Like the convertibles.

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So I started to at least try and put the jacking point side back together... fabricating the replacement part is the fun bit. I am sure over time my welding skills will improve, but for now: too much welding and grinding going on. The result is passable. Slow going though...

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on the other hand: dropped off the first batch of parts off at the powder coaters - two days later they were ready for pickup! I love getting friendly painted parts back. Satin black and I went for Dune for the grey air filter parts. A decent match. Should have the first batch of electroplated parts back next week as well - Gold and silver fasteners and parts. Let’s see what the quality will be like...

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Sven
 
Are you a professional fabricator :confused: That is really nice work on the patch panel. I've never managed to separate and make patches that well :( Nicely done :dance: :dance:
 
DoubleChevron said:
Are you a professional fabricator :confused: That is really nice work
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definitely not a professional... more a garage hack. Once my welding improves progress will be a bit quicker. But I do like the fabrication part. It’s still surprising me how few tools you need to shape the metal. It just takes time and patience...
 
Sven-
If you like I can see about making you a new loom for your Safari. I think I have the factory diagrams for the 63-64 ID in RHD. I would need to have your old one to accurately build it. I'll be stuck here at the not-so-skilled nursing home through through approximately the 3rd week of August, but I'll have an opportunity start researching it out. After all, it's an ID. How hard can it be?? (Yah, I know- famous last words.....) 😋😆

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Wow, that’s a hard to reject offer! My loom is certainly not in great condition and had a few things grafted into it over time. Still have to work out what switches were originally in the dashboard as mine has a few “extras” built in that I like to remove. Will send you a PM as well so we can tick-tack the details in the background.

Wouldnt want you to get bored in the nursing home :D
 
Hi Sven,
Fantastic work - well done!!!
I can't see too much from the photo, however I'd be tempted to tack a longish piece of RHS or angle onto the top of the sill box section as you've pulled a fair bit of metal out of the box section.
Also the break has an extra piece of metal tacked to the outside of the sill which could be a rust trap - I'd be tempted (once braced) to remove the outer to make sure it was not rusty in between.
Kind regards,
Mark :)
 
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