My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

bleudanube

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Well, the last run didn’t go well at all. After a couple of early coughs and one backfire it settled down and ran well for about 30min, so I got cocky and took a wider loop… and then it started to cough, fart and stall. So I hobbled closer to home, but had to concede defeat and park up the paperweight. Kelly picked be up and I will go back once it’s cooled down.

Put the “new” coil in as well - just to check it really isn’t working and that only got me a few hundred meters further up the road.

At least it looks good - even parked 😬😂

9B5093F3-E2FE-415C-8251-DC76B177C19F.jpeg


Frustrating to say the least… Do I buy another coil? 123 ignition? New points again?
 

DoubleChevron

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I've found in the past ... coils get burning hot to the touch if they are dead/dying. I guess "cold" means there open circuit, burning hot means they are internally shorting across some of the coils inside.
 

schlitzaugen

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That thing does look gorgeous even though it's not the colour I would have gone for.

I would suggest you try the timing light trick again, even after you stopped with the engine dead, just cranking and see what the spark looks like. This is just to make sure it's an ignition issue.

If it is an ignition issue, try to wire a coil resistor through a switch in the cabin so you can add it in and take it out as you wish. Doesn't need to be a permanent modification, just a means of testing if the coil is indeed getting to saturation. Switch the resistor in the circuit when the engine starts to cough and see.
 

bleudanube

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Well… annoyingly the day ended on the back of the tow truck. After leaving the car parked up for a few hours it didn’t even want to start at all. Swapped the coil again to see whether it makes any difference … nope! Plenty of fuel, but didn’t have all the tools with me to play properly, so onto the truck she went…

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Maybe good timing as I also found a split coolant hose (the small one from water pump to carbie/inlet manifold).

Beer time to ponder and order parts… c’est la vie I guess… 😩

Onwards and upwards.

PS: Coil Resistor? What do they look like, how & where to wire them in? What does it do? And why would I need one if the ID originally never had one?

The car should just run like intended if all the standard parts work as they should…
 

bleudanube

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Quick ebay search…
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I would have bought the top one… but it there a better option to go with the middle coil or bolt on the ballast resistor to the top coil?

Is there a way that something in the wiring/loom/distributor that could cause the coils to break down? Sorry, that might be a stupid question, but to have two coils ‘fail’ just feels a bit off… coils are pretty static things…
 

Buttercup

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Well… annoyingly the day ended on the back of the tow truck. After leaving the car parked up for a few hours it didn’t even want to start at all. Swapped the coil again to see whether it makes any difference … nope! Plenty of fuel, but didn’t have all the tools with me to play properly, so onto the truck she went…

View attachment 138727 View attachment 138728

Maybe good timing as I also found a split coolant hose (the small one from water pump to carbie/inlet manifold).

Beer time to ponder and order parts… c’est la vie I guess… 😩

Onwards and upwards.

PS: Coil Resistor? What do they look like, how & where to wire them in? What does it do? And why would I need one if the ID originally never had one?

The car should just run like intended if all the standard parts work as they should…
Yes, if all the standard spec parts run as per spec you will have no trouble.

No you don't necessarily need a resistor.
A coil intended to be used on an old car without resistor needs to make a good spark at a wide range of system voltages. Say 10 to 14.2 volts.
If you knew exactly what the spec of your selected coil was, and knew that it performed to that spec you'd be ok.

Excess points dwell will cook the coil.
This is why I suggest opening the points a little and see if the coil runs cooler.

We don't know for sure thar your coil is the latest problem. It could equally be the condensor. They also fail if they get too hot. And I've heard it from several sources that modern replacement condensors are not nearly as tolerant or reliable as the original '60s ones.
I had a condensor fail in very few hours.
The next one is still going after 4 years.
 

bleudanube

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Or is it worth splurging out on the whole kit…. Might solve it once and for all… until that coil also fails I guess 🤫

51572DAA-85E5-499B-84A5-6DFBBEFA0D2C.jpeg
 

Buttercup

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Or is it worth splurging out on the whole kit…. Might solve it once and for all… until that coil also fails I guess 🤫

View attachment 138746
Is that for short stroke engines only?

Somehow you need to double check that it will fit the long stroke ID19.
And presumeably it also needs a resistor feeding the coil.

Maybe it's correct for your car without resistor, but you need to be sure.
 

DoubleChevron

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This looks intermittant .... I'm putting my $$$ on a loose connection somewhere... most likely the fuses. Next time it stops on the side of the road, wiggle or the fuses (at least check you have 12volts to the coil ..... or run a jumper wire to it :D
 

Buttercup

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Yes
This looks intermittant .... I'm putting my $$$ on a loose connection somewhere... most likely the fuses. Next time it stops on the side of the road, wiggle or the fuses (at least check you have 12volts to the coil ..... or run a jumper wire to it :D
Yes, good point Shane.
Maybe even the ignition switch itself.
 

DoubleChevron

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Yes

Yes, good point Shane.
Maybe even the ignition switch itself.
Nothing is more frustrating that something that intermittently works.... It might drive you crazy when if finally breaks for good ......... But at least you can find what is wrong with it if the damn thing will stay broken :clown:

I carry one of those kings tools kits everywhere in my cars....

https://www.4wdsupacentre.com.au/es...MIpOWU7f269AIV8oJLBR2FGQ4zEAQYAiABEgLwbvD_BwE

the tools in it are probably better quality than the tools I actually use in my shed ... but I NEVER touch it, the day I use it at home, there will be tools missing from it when I need it. Its a bargain given the contents, the fact its a "bag" they fit anywhere in your car without rattling ... and the tools are actually remarkably good quality. Next time I go to ALDI I'm thinking I'll grab another couple of there 1/4" socket kits. I've find I use this all the time. its quality is remarably good for the money, all the extension bars are "wobble bars" on the single hex sockets go upto 14mm. It also contains, torx, phillips and all the bits you could need.

https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-...urday-detail-wk47/ps/p/socket-and-bit-sets-1/

it really is remarkable for the money. one of these in the kings tool bag would be an excellent addition

only thing added is some bits of wire and a multi-meter :) no point being stuck somewhere with no way of fixing it. Having said that, I'm yet to use it myself. But its helped quite a few people. you see whenever people have broken down or need a jump start.... they look aruond for the oldest, shitiest car in they can find in the carpark.... and make a beeline straight for me and say "Hey mate, do you have tools/jumperleads ?" :rolleyes:
 
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alpine

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try bypassing ign switch with a wire from battery pos + to coil with alligator clips ,
no need to disconnect anything (unless you have a short) will have to disconnect to stop the engine
and check the wire carefully from coil to dissy they sometimes fracture internally .
best wishes
 

Roger Wilkinson

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I once had an intermittent fault in a 1963 Slough ID19. It was a loose connection on the back of the ammeter.

Roger
 

Buttercup

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Shane, I notice that the King tool set doesn't have all the spanner sizes.
You need to chuck an 8 and an 11 in there.
Yes, I have 3 of those Aldi 1/4" socket sets. One in each car. They really are good quality.
Also in each car, a spanner roll with every size from 6 to 22.
I made my own rolls from cloth backed vinyl, 'cos the plastic of the shop ones breaks up so quickly.
20211129_073750.jpg
 

PeterMol

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This looks intermittant .... I'm putting my $$$ on a loose connection somewhere... most likely the fuses. Next time it stops on the side of the road, wiggle or the fuses (at least check you have 12volts to the coil ..... or run a jumper wire to it :D
My experience is even new high tension leads can be faulty. If you want 123 go to Ted Cross. He is cheaper and no postage

I also agree. Hot wire it and see if that resolves it
 

DoubleChevron

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Shane, I notice that the King tool set doesn't have all the spanner sizes.
You need to chuck an 8 and an 11 in there.
Yes, I have 3 of those Aldi 1/4" socket sets. One in each car. They really are good quality.
Also in each car, a spanner roll with every size from 6 to 22.
I made my own rolls from cloth backed vinyl, 'cos the plastic of the shop ones breaks up so quickly.
View attachment 138748
I hadn't noticed the missing spanners. The only real addition I've made is cable ties, a 27mm breakers bar (range rover wheel nuts), insulation tape, multi-meter .... and those socketes are back at ALDI so I'm going to grab one today. That should do it. I also carry 5meter long jumper leads, but they need vice grips added as battery clamps so they can't pull off due to the weight of the leads.

If you guys haven't noticed ALDI has cable ties and heat shrink on special this weekend too. The heat shrink looks to be decent quality rated, brand name heat shrink. There cable ties are quite good too. I use them a lot.

I've found a heavy duty ratchet strap living in the back of the car is a big help too ($10 at total tools a few months back). I use it often, usually to pull people back onto the road after they have supidly driven into the bush near our house ( I've pulled several people back onto the road this year that did "U" turns and sunk in the soft ground beside the road).

I carried a snatch strap for a while. They are useless though, you see anyone bogged enough to need a "snatch" is somewhere I'm not going, as I'll get bogged before I get to them. Also you both need rated recovery points to use it. If used on towbars they become missiles.
 
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bleudanube

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Found the culprit - took all of 10 minutes! Not sure why, but the pivot end of the points “melted” and therefore the bush got offset, points didn’t open - voila, no go…

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Other points back in - voila - running well (until whatever fails next…😂😩)

Question is why did it happen? Maybe the points were dodgy (as they were old, plastic deteriorated).

Just went for a drive and the coil and points are at 50 degree C. On a 25 degree, sunny Melbourne day - seems hot … and definitely hot to touch… measured with an IR gun.
 

Buttercup

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The coil should only feel warm...... guessing 35 to 40.
Please try opening the points a bit, and see how the coil runs then.
 
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