My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

You'll get the hang of driving it.... eg: If you climbing the pentland mountains to ballarat ..... Nail that pedal that makes the noise louder to the floor in 4th ..... Ring every last ounce of speed out of the thing before hit the steep climbs. You'll find you will be mostly in the fast lane overtaking everyone .... 'cos for some reason no-one does the damn speed limit (they have the power to just accelerate whenever they feel like it ).... Don't slow for any reason. You'll probably find your still holding top at 55 -> 60mph as you crest the steepest of climbs. Just don't back off ... not even for a second. Lost momentum is lost for good :) If you forced to slow for anythign (eg: @$$holes sitting beside slow traffic in the fast lane not overtaking) .... In this case, your in for a llooooonnnngggg crawl up the hills in 3rd with the engine roaring in the line of trucks.

You will also learn overtaking lanes are useless. The only car I've ever really managed to overtake people in the overtaking lanes with in the CX turbo ..... 'Cos it just nails its arse end to the bump stops and blasts past them before they realise I'm going to overtake. Every other car I own, I hit the indicator to overtake and move over ...... And the 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬 drivers in the cars to be overtaken are suddenly hauling arse pulling away from me. In the shitbox range rover last time I tried to use an overtaking lane .... They saw more pull along side. I only got past as they were towing a boat and it started swaying all over the place at 125km/h .... Until then we were neck and neck ... Even little grey haired grannies see me pull out in overtaking lanes .... and hit the damn afternburners. Don't worry as soon as the overtaking lanes finish they are back to 80km/h.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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DoubleChevron said:
You'll get the hang of driving it.... eg: If you climbing the pentland mountains to ballarat ..... Nail that pedal that makes the noise louder to the floor in 4th ..... Ring every last ounce of speed out of the thing before hit the steep climbs. You'll find you will be mostly in the fast lane overtaking everyone .... 'cos for some reason no-one does the damn speed limit (they have the power to just accelerate whenever they feel like it ).... Don't slow for any reason. You'll probably find your still holding top at 55 -> 60mph as you crest the steepest of climbs. Just don't back off ... not even for a second. Lost momentum is lost for good :) If you forced to slow for anythign (eg: @$$holes sitting beside slow traffic in the fast lane not overtaking) .... In this case, your in for a llooooonnnngggg crawl up the hills in 3rd with the engine roaring in the line of trucks.

You will also learn overtaking lanes are useless. The only car I've ever really managed to overtake people in the overtaking lanes with in the CX turbo ..... 'Cos it just nails its arse end to the bump stops and blasts past them before they realise I'm going to overtake. Every other car I own, I hit the indicator to overtake and move over ...... And the 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬 drivers in the cars to be overtaken are suddenly hauling arse pulling away from me. In the shitbox range rover last time I tried to use an overtaking lane .... They saw more pull along side. I only got past as they were towing a boat and it started swaying all over the place at 125km/h .... Until then we were neck and neck ... Even little grey haired grannies see me pull out in overtaking lanes .... and hit the damn afternburners. Don't worry as soon as the overtaking lanes finish they are back to 80km/h.

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...
Shane,

You are obviously quite a bit younger than I am. The technique I developed for the 1015 GS was to hang back a bit before the overtaking lane, and then at the 500m ahead sign, it was time to flatten the accelerator such that just when you got to the overtaking lane, you were doing at least 20km/hr more than the slow car in front. If things didn't work out, you could always brake.

Cheers, Ken
 
DoubleChevron said:
You'll get the hang of driving it.... eg: If you climbing the pentland mountains to ballarat ..... Nail that pedal that makes the noise louder to the floor in 4th ..... Ring every last ounce of speed out of the thing before hit the steep climbs. You'll find you will be mostly in the fast lane overtaking everyone .... 'cos for some reason no-one does the damn speed limit (they have the power to just accelerate whenever they feel like it ).... Don't slow for any reason. You'll probably find your still holding top at 55 -> 60mph as you crest the steepest of climbs. Just don't back off ... not even for a second. Lost momentum is lost for good :) If you forced to slow for anythign (eg: @$$holes sitting beside slow traffic in the fast lane not overtaking) .... In this case, your in for a llooooonnnngggg crawl up the hills in 3rd with the engine roaring in the line of trucks.

You will also learn overtaking lanes are useless. The only car I've ever really managed to overtake people in the overtaking lanes with in the CX turbo ..... 'Cos it just nails its arse end to the bump stops and blasts past them before they realise I'm going to overtake. Every other car I own, I hit the indicator to overtake and move over ...... And the 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬 drivers in the cars to be overtaken are suddenly hauling arse pulling away from me. In the shitbox range rover last time I tried to use an overtaking lane .... They saw more pull along side. I only got past as they were towing a boat and it started swaying all over the place at 125km/h .... Until then we were neck and neck ... Even little grey haired grannies see me pull out in overtaking lanes .... and hit the damn afternburners. Don't worry as soon as the overtaking lanes finish they are back to 80km/h.

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...
That is why I overtake where there are no overtaking lanes. If I have a broken line and I have clear ahead I just go. The diesel Koleos is a lazy beast but still goes if you plant your foot or go manual and drop it down the gears.
 
Ken W said:
Shane,

You are obviously quite a bit younger than I am. The technique I developed for the 1015 GS was to hang back a bit before the overtaking lane, and then at the 500m ahead sign, it was time to flatten the accelerator such that just when you got to the overtaking lane, you were doing at least 20km/hr more than the slow car in front. If things didn't work out, you could always brake.

Cheers, Ken
Click to expand...
Yes, that's what i do..... judging it just right, so you can get around them just as the lane starts. It's a pain when you get it wrong by just a few m and have to lift of for a second.
It helps if you know the road well 'cos the 300m sign is not always at 300m.
 
Is it possible that the old coil is a 9V designed to run with ballast supply & the new 12V designed to run without ballast ? I can't remember
if early D's had separate ballasts or if it was internal in the wiring & not obvious. A 12V coil certainly wouldn't like running on only 9V !
Just a thought !
 
citroenut said:
Is it possible that the old coil is a 9V designed to run with ballast supply & the new 12V designed to run without ballast ? I can't remember
if early D's had separate ballasts or if it was internal in the wiring & not obvious. A 12V coil certainly wouldn't like running on only 9V !
Just a thought !
Click to expand...
Yah, all 12V Ds are separate ballasts. The 9V is a mistake that can certainly be made, but usually you'll only see those on older industrial motors and tractors. Internal ballast coils are a bit later, think 1980 or so.
 
Ken W said:
Shane,

You are obviously quite a bit younger than I am. The technique I developed for the 1015 GS was to hang back a bit before the overtaking lane, and then at the 500m ahead sign, it was time to flatten the accelerator such that just when you got to the overtaking lane, you were doing at least 20km/hr more than the slow car in front. If things didn't work out, you could always brake.

Cheers, Ken
Click to expand...

That was the only way to pass in a CX 2200 diesel. They don't accellerate, but will "gather speed" if your not going uphill.
 
I nearly bought a one owner CX2200 which a friend owned . Took it home for the weekend. I realised it was leisurely compared to the Fiat I was selling, but was horrified when I turned the airconditiong on and it nearly stopped. Beautiful looking car though!
 
Trading Estate said:
I nearly bought a one owner CX2200 which a friend owned . Took it home for the weekend. I realised it was leisurely compared to the Fiat I was selling, but was horrified when I turned the airconditiong on and it nearly stopped. Beautiful looking car though!
Click to expand...

The one my father owned was quite good. At one of the Cit-ins a guy that owned a couple of CX2500D's drove it as he wanted to see how slow it was (given the CX2500's were slow). He came back saying "something wrong with mine, this goes way better". It would cruise at most speeds, but if it died on a hill, you just slowed down and grabbed the next gear. Putting your foot down did nothing other than leave a cloud of black smoke in the mirrors. A/C wouldn't have worried it to much. It wasn't that sort of gutless. It would "hold" speed really well, you just couldn't be in a hurry to accellerate. If you put the A/C on at 70mph for instance .... you probably wouldn't notice anything ... unless you tried to accellerate.
 
DoubleChevron said:
The one my father owned was quite good. At one of the Cit-ins a guy that owned a couple of CX2500D's drove it as he wanted to see how slow it was (given the CX2500's were slow). He came back saying "something wrong with mine, this goes way better". It would cruise at most speeds, but if it died on a hill, you just slowed down and grabbed the next gear. Putting your foot down did nothing other than leave a cloud of black smoke in the mirrors. A/C wouldn't have worried it to much. It wasn't that sort of gutless. It would "hold" speed really well, you just couldn't be in a hurry to accellerate. If you put the A/C on at 70mph for instance .... you probably wouldn't notice anything ... unless you tried to accellerate.
Click to expand...
You probably would not notice any cold air either!
 
I feel like Pottsy and his “she hates me” comments about his GS…

The Safari started to cough a little again yesterday on a short suburban drive with a bit of stop-and-go traffic…. So I thought it might be running too rich (as I also need very little choke to start the car), pulled the plugs this morning and: they look better than I expected! Nice and brown.

EA7285C0-DEBF-4E1F-8556-1D90FBD63465.jpeg


Points are also fine, not burnt or discoloured. Hmmm, what else? I will take her for another drive now, maybe she just had a bad day yesterday… who knows.

Temperamental ladies, those Safaris…
 
If it does it again, pull over, pop the bonnet, put your hand on the coil.....
Check that it's not too warm.
A hot coil will not deliver much spark.
 
Buttercup said:
If it does it again, pull over, pop the bonnet, put your hand on the coil.....
Check that it's not too warm.
A hot coil will not deliver much spark.
Click to expand...
Was just over 50 degrees when I arrived back in the garage - that seems ok to me…? Or too hot?
 
That's more than I would have expected, given that ambient is probably around 25?
Yes, that's a good question, what temp is a normal coil running at?
I would try opening the points gap a little to reduce the dwell..... see if that helps to run the coil a bit cooler.
Hot coil is a sign of saturation.... that is too much current going through it. One way to reduce the current is to fit a resistor which drops the voltage. The other, is to reduce the time that the coil is being charged, that is, reduce the time that the points are closed, that is, open the points gap a little.

When you are testing the points gap with a feeler gauge...... are you setting it so there is a little drag on the gauge?
In my opinion that is not the best way to get an accurate gap. A little drag means that the points spring is pressing on the gauge. That means it will close a little as the gauge is removed.
Best is to have NO drag when the gauge blade is exactly aligned with the gap, but if you tilt it slightly one way it starts to drag.
You need to feel the feeler gauge.

Of course, after setting the points a bit more open, this slightly advances the spark, so you should retard it a little.
 
Buttercup said:
That's more than I would have expected, given that ambient is probably around 25?
Yes, that's a good question, what temp is a normal coil running at?
I would try opening the points gap a little to reduce the dwell..... see if that helps to run the coil a bit cooler.
Hot coil is a sign of saturation.... that is too much current going through it. One way to reduce the current is to fit a resistor which drops the voltage. The other, is to reduce the time that the coil is being charged, that is, reduce the time that the points are closed, that is, open the points gap a little.

When you are testing the points gap with a feeler gauge...... are you setting it so there is a little drag on the gauge?
In my opinion that is not the best way to get an accurate gap. A little drag means that the points spring is pressing on the gauge. That means it will close a little as the gauge is removed.
Best is to have NO drag when the gauge blade is exactly aligned with the gap, but if you tilt it slightly one way it starts to drag.
You need to feel the feeler gauge.

Of course, after setting the points a bit more open, this slightly advances the spark, so you should retard it a little.
Click to expand...
I have no idea so forgive my question but would ambient under the bonnet be 25?
 
Johno1 said:
I have no idea so forgive my question but would ambient under the bonnet be 25?
Click to expand...
Ok so you mean ambient as in not running at all. Might a infrared thermometer help compare temp of different surfaces in engine bay?
 
Johno1 said:
Ok so you mean ambient as in not running at all. Might a infrared thermometer help compare temp of different surfaces in engine bay?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure how Sven measured 50 at the coil. Probably by infra red.

The actual under bonnet temp(s) would vary a lot depending on what you are measuring, how and when. I don't think it really matters, just that on a stinking hot summer day, ambient 40+, it's obviously going to push the coil up a lot more.
I was simply trying to suggest that 50 is rather high for a moderate spring day, and probably not a long drive.

I would have expected the coil to be no more than 10 above ambient, maybe 15.

It's not based on numerical data from 100 years of motoring.
It's based on personal perception from 45 years of motoring, mostly in cars very similar to Sven's (but never so new and shiny).
 
Buttercup said:
I'm not sure how Sven measured 50 at the coil. Probably by infra red.

The actual under bonnet temp(s) would vary a lot depending on what you are measuring, how and when. I don't think it really matters, just that on a stinking hot summer day, ambient 40+, it's obviously going to push the coil up a lot more.
I was simply trying to suggest that 50 is rather high for a moderate spring day, and probably not a long drive.

I would have expected the coil to be no more than 10 above ambient, maybe 15.

It not based on numerical data from 100 years of motoring.
It's based on personal perception from 45 years of motoring, mostly in cars very similar to Sven's (but never so new and shiny).
Click to expand...
There is a possibility the old coil- the on that ironically solved Sven's poor running- is breaking down when warm. Being essentially a huge resistor/capacitor, it's going to get warm. Sven, you do have the external ignition resistor in place, yes? Ignition coils on a 12V system are only intended to run on 8.5-9V, much higher and they will begin to act a bit, erm, "funky".
 
The long stoke cars didn't have resistors. Just a coil.... obviously designed to run between 9 and 14 V.
I don't know what coil he has, maybe he should put a resistor on it.
The resistor system is good, in that, at a cold start the resistor is also cold and has low resistance, so the voltage to the coil is higher......... except.... while the starter motor is cranking, it is drawing the system voltage down to 9 or 10V.
Once the resistor a warms up the resistance goes up and keeps the coil feed voltage similarly low.
It means that the coil is not being asked to run over such a wide range of voltages.

On my old cars, if the battery is low, sometimes it won't fire while the starter is engaged.
However, after a bit of cranking, the moment I release the starter button, the engine fires, and runs. This is because, stopping the starter immediately raises the system voltage, and the coil then makes a good spark. If the engine has enough momentum from the cranking, it will fire.
 
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