My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

bleudanube

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I set the points at a snug 0.45mm or a loose 0.40mm… what do you normally set yours at? Happy to open them up… is 0.5mm too wide?
 

DoubleChevron

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if you watch uncle tonies garage on youtube. He's done a big rant about the quality of points in the last 6months. They are so bad you need to find NOS. He found if the didn't burn, the rubbing block was wearing out in a few thousand miles.
 

Buttercup

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I set the points at a snug 0.45mm or a loose 0.40mm… what do you normally set yours at? Happy to open them up… is 0.5mm too wide?
0.5 is admittedly a little wider than the spec of 0.4, however it's worth trying to see if there is an effect on coil temp.
If that does lower coil temp it means that the coil is being overpowered.
As mentioned previously we don't know whether the coil matches the original specs. So we don't know that it is capable of handling 14.2V without a resistor.
If the coil temp goes down with a wider points gap, then you could fit a resistor with that coil, and set your points to 0.4 as per spec....... and try that.
 
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Buttercup

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You could also monitor your system voltage......
Maybe your regulator is running the voltage too high.
You could try driving with all your lights on, the fans on, the horn blaring, and the radio on full volume.
See if the voltage drops a bit, and if the coil also runs a bit cooler.
 

Roger Wilkinson

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Bob, your neighbours and mine might not care if we drive around with the horn blaring, but Sven's might!

Roger
 

bleudanube

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I ordered a Bosch GT40 red coil - just for fun and as a spare. The current “old” Bosch measured 3.4ohm primary and 7.75kohm secondary… the Calibre coil from SCA is 1.1 and 6.4 - both measured cold.

Also ordered a few more points sets and condensers from Darrin in the UK - again: better to have some spares.

Let’s hope the whole shebang keeps running until the backup arrives. I will open the points a little and see what it does Bob…
 

Ken W

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Sven,

There should be a fibre washer between the top of the points and the E clip to stop the points shorting out on the clip. The sort of clip I remember was more of a like the picture below so it supported the fibre washer.

Cheers, Ken
 

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Buttercup

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Bob, your neighbours and mine might not care if we drive around with the horn blaring, but Sven's might!

Roger
My tongue was firmly in my right cheek, and my left eye was firmly closed, and besides I didn't mean it literally. I just wanted to illustrate another possibility.

Another simpler way, might be to disconnect the generator, for a test drive.
That way the voltage would probably sit at 12.5 ish...... and provide more comfortable environment for the coil to operate in.

I'm just tying to help diagnose why the coil is so warm..

Looking at the melted points..... it is possible that the clip was shorting the points arm to the post.

Yes, a fibre washer was normal.
 
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schlitzaugen

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That plastic must have been mighty hot to melt like that.

I second buttercup's suggestion and this is the reason why I also explained in a post above to introduce a ballast resistor just as an experiment to see if that brings coil temperatures down.

Rather than guessing however, I would encourage you to get a Dwell/RPM meter. It is more accurate than your rev counter on board (to set idle, etc) and also measures Dwell, so you're not guessing the points gap and you can have it right in front of you when you do any of these adjustments in the engine bay. They are not expensive at all and I would further suggest you add it to your on board service kit at least until you are able to tell by ear what the engine is doing.

Just FYI, the coil I mentioned earlier giving me grief was a Bosch GT40 red coil. Not to say they are all bad but mine was. Brand new, too. The old (good) one I went back to, was still a red Bosch GT40!

If you want, you could send me the old points and I can make you a bush from some serious engineering plastic like Vesconite, Teflon or Delrin H. I will need the shaft diameter and the overall height of the bush including shoulders and such. I guarantee that is going to outlive the car. Or just bite the bullet and go get a Pertronix or similar Hall effect pick-up. That will make a world of difference and is basically there for good, no adjustments, no faffing around needed. That also makes problems to do with dizzy shaft wear irrelevant.
 

Roger Wilkinson

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I solved the overheating coils problem in my 1959 DS19 by setting the dwell exactly to factory specification.

Roger
 

Roger Wilkinson

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Bob, your tongue might have been in your cheek but I read it as a completely sensible way to draw the voltage down a bit. Just not in Sven's neighbourhood.

It's one of my standard ways to test a battery.

Roger
 

Buttercup

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Bob, your tongue might have been in your cheek but I read it as a completely sensible way to draw the voltage down a bit. Just not in Sven's neighbourhood.

It's one of my standard ways to test a battery.

Roger
And if you want to test it properly, you connect up all the horns you can muster, probably about 40 or so?
The neighbours might be far enough away, but think of the poor sheep!
 

bleudanube

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Always bites you when you don’t do things 100%… jumped into the car, wasn’t sure whether it will need choke when it’s 30degrees outside, so I mucked around a bit and ogled a bit too much, flooding the carbie…

Opened the hood and saw fuel leaking quite severely from the bottom of the carbie. Great 😩! Whipped it out and found the leak coming from the primary butterfly shaft… hmm, the only thing I didn’t check out and overhaul were those two shafts. “Expected” them to still be fine - nope…

Found that the secondary one is ok, but the primary one is badly flogged out! The shaft has about 1.5mm play! DOH.

041705B5-A8AC-4C5C-BC62-622B5D7696ED.jpeg
34C0DBBD-5FFA-452B-9EBB-D0890BE46EF5.jpeg


You can see the gap in the photo below on the right… a decent amount of wear!

D1DEAFCA-43B4-4652-9950-3E952590E135.jpeg


As mentioned before the Weber guy in Melbourne is booked out til February, so the best way of action might be a call out to all froggers whether they have a replacement carburettor - or maybe even a good bottom half?!?

The model is a Weber 24/30 DDC A1

Anyone got one lying around? Sven
 

DoubleChevron

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That shouldn't cause any issues other than a vacuum leak at idle. it sounds like the needle and seat has stuck open if its flooding over with fuel.
 

schlitzaugen

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Yeap, second DC.

But that carby is flogged out. Time to go DGV 32/36 and relinquish that antiquated piece of junk to the increasing entropy of the universe.

To repair that thing you need to open the hole, ream it out, press in a bushing, ream that one to the shaft size and get a new shaft. Not hard but delicate work. Would probably cost more than the carby is worth or more than a good s/h 32/36 DGV.

Not associated in any way:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bun...nsmission/weber-32-36-dgv-5a-carby/1282758027
 
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Buttercup

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Yeap, second DC.

But that carby is flogged out. Time to go DGV 32/36 and relinquish that antiquated piece of junk to the increasing entropy of the universe.

To repair that thing you need to open the hole, ream it out, press in a bushing, ream that one to the shaft size and get a new shaft. Not hard but delicate work. Would probably cost more than the carby is worth or more than a good s/h 32/36 DGV.

Not associated in any way:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bun...nsmission/weber-32-36-dgv-5a-carby/1282758027
32/36 Is rather big for a low revving 1911.
Besides, Sven has put a lot into maintaining original spec, so a good replacement 24/32 Weber DDC is by far the preferred option.
I might have one........
Standby.
 

Buttercup

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I have found one..... 24/32 DDC, it appears to be low km and in good order......

I'll take it off the car and inspect it in detail.
Slight problem..... I doesn't belong to me!
I am contacting the owner to seek permission to send it to a worthy cause.

Standby......
 

bleudanube

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I wouldn’t have an issue to attempt that sort of work, but as the Bob/Roger combo have found a carbie as replacement I go down that path!

Love to have a drill press… and a lathe, a sandblasting cabinet, parts washer, paint booth, milling machine, a hoist…. And a large shed to shove it all in and add a few more cars. Time to leave suburbia and move back into the country!? 😩😬😂

For now I added a fibre washer and grease and the beast is running again. Ready for roadworthy Monday …

The new Bosch GT40 coil also arrived - cannot feel a difference yet. Secondary resistance is twice what the old Bosch one is , 16 kOhm. Temp is still around 50 degrees when running. Points now at 0.45-0.5mm. But it’s red… got to make it faster for sure!!! 😂
 

Hotrodelectric

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But it’s red… got to make it faster for sure!!! 😂

Well, if you really want power Sven, you need to do as the Honda fanbois do, and paint it yellow. You could then pretend VTEC kicked in, YO!

16kohms means a bigger, fatter spark. Keep an eye on the points and condenser. You may well need a resistor for that.
 
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