My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

David S

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The butterfly shaft would be fairly easy to make from rod, but the diecast lug on the end would be a pain to replicate. Another way forward here would be to turn down the original shaft a little and slip some stock brass tube over it. Then make suitable bushes to fit the carby body from bearing bronze or buy these ready made to suit your brass tube stock and limit your work on the carby body to fitting the bushes. If you have one, an endmill in a drillpress (assuming there is no mill or XY table available) would be preferable to a twist drill. Alternatively, some carbs do use a plastic sleeve bush between the shaft and the body or shaft bush.

A further concern is whether the area of the body that the butterfly is in contact with is now badly worn out. Is the butterfly plate itself worn? It is meant to fit the body so it doesn't leak air past in the closed position. When trying to fit a new bush, this will be important as it will determine how well the air control works.
 
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bleudanube

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Thank you Chris - probably a good move to put those sections into the Aussiefrogs UFC section 😂. Now, back to the Safari - ran like a dream yesterday, didn’t want to start this morning… grrr, flooded again… merde! 😩
 

Buttercup

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When cold starting...... if you think it needs choke.......
Start cranking, then slowly pull the choke out. It will fire when it gets enough fuel in the mixture.

Many people pull the choke right out and give the throttle a couple of hard pumps before cranking...... this is quite likely to cause flooding.

With a new engine, with everything on spec, in warm weather not much choke is needed.
 

Greenpeace

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ran like a dream yesterday, didn’t want to start this morning… grrr, flooded again… merde! 😩
Mine is temperamental after a few days sitting idle, but will start easily on 1/2 choke if it's only been a day or two since the last drive. Different carby to yours though, only a single barrel.

If it's not a technique thing (as outlined by Buttercup) but mechanical, the causes for flooding are limited:

- Excess fuel pressure.
- Needle and seat, either by wear or a foreign body.
-Fuel inside the float itself.
-And, (I've only ever had this once) the float has actually come off its arm.

I didn't mention float level as I know you've already done that.
 

bleudanube

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Just for something more annoying than the cold start / flooding issue - cleaned the plugs (sooty) and got it running quite well, went for short drives up and down the road and all seemed fine. Off for a longer test, car starts spluttering again…. New Bosch GT40 coil was at over 60 degrees!! Hobbled (just) home - old Bosch coil back in, points checked (still at 0.5mm, pivot not melted 😬).

Timing checked and still sitting at about 4-5 degree Before TDC - that seemed to be the best spot with the least amount of coughing , backfiring and smoothest running.

Built myself a makeshift gauge finger so I know where 12 before (pin in flywheel notch) and zero TDC are (marked those on the camshaft pulley).

5A6C0131-64D3-4199-96EA-30B9C199C5CE.jpeg


Running again now - about to increase my circle work 😬 to see whether more heat will make it stutter again… temperamental bastard. Testing my patience and perseverance.
 

bleudanube

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Plugs are NGK BP6 HS and they are mid brown after a drive, which looks fine to me.

AF4E5F40-3096-4EBD-A18F-55B503CD3CEB.jpeg


The leads are Bosch and were recommended here on Aussiefrogs sometime ago.

EAD1739E-449A-45B5-9E9F-FE98274EAC08.jpeg


Points are now at 0.5mm and with the old Bosch coil back in the car ran ok for about 8-10klm just now, but that coil was also at 48 degrees.

But it is still not right… still feels a bit ‘coarse’ under full acceleration, a bit ‘burbly’ when I take the foot off and coast… and did one backfire fart when I turned her off in the garage - it felt it was about to start and stutter/cough again if I would have kept driving.
 

schlitzaugen

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I think you need to positively iron out any fuel delivery issues and then look at ignition starting from zero again.

I'm sorry to say this again, but you really need a Dwell meter, a timing gun and an ohm meter.

I would also suggest a test of the fuel delivery pressure after everything to do with fuel is sorted out. This includes air leak checking, by the way.
 

Hotrodelectric

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If you reduce the points gap, it gives the coil more time with current going through it...... dwell..... and less time without.

How could less gap help?


It was either you or Roger- I think Roger- stated that to help reduce overall coil temperature. Sven has it set at .5mm now, well over spec.
 

Hotrodelectric

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At this point, I think I'm going to agree with Schlitzaugen- get the known fuel problems taken care of first. We know the carb is in a less-than-good state.
 

Pallas

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What pistons are in your car?i have found Id19 motors run better with a single solex,should be able to cruise at 80 mph,call me 0407281269 if you want some tuning advice
 

DoubleChevron

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Sounds like there is something floating around in the tank randomly closing up the pickup tube to me ......... :) Is there fuel in the carby when its starts playing up?

Fueling issues can be easier to pick, as you can get it to keep running by pulling the choke out. Its sometime quite obvoius its leaning out as you open the accelerator. If its the jets in the carby, I've driven home quite a few times with only the 2nd choke on the carby working. It must means your driving everywhere with the throttle wide open to bring in the secondary jets in the carby :evil:
 

bleudanube

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Success on both fronts - I hope…

Today was roadworthy day and although she coughed a little on the way there and back she passed with flying colours!

As luck wanted it the club rego folks were also available to sign the paperwork and then off to VicRoads to get some plates - DONE. I have a road legal car!

FC9A30E9-4CFD-45C0-9DC3-755CCA8D4D81.jpeg


I then had Elliot, a French mobile mechanic who knows a few things about DS over again and he brought with him a properly working condenser - 100% good. All three I have I was still doubtful about…

Whipped out the distributor again, put the new condenser in, cleaned and set points again, set the timing to about 6 degree before TDC, set the air mixture screw again and started the car… checked the HT lead resistance and temperatures. All ok so far.

Runs like a dream. Did a 40klm loop through the suburbs without hiccup. Excellent - seems to have been the issue all along. Still back on the old Bosch coil, the GT40 as spare.

Let’s hope this is the end of the ignition saga. New sets of points and condensers are in the mail from Darrin in the UK as backup.

Let’s hope is is happy motoring from here onwards. About time.

Thanks again for everyone’s suggestions, help, banter. Still keen to replace the worn carbie bottom - but less of a urgency now…

Sven
 

bleudanube

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Well, it seems I was wrong. For that, Sven, I apologize. :blackeye::blush:

OTOH, I am going to bask a little bit in your glow. Now we need a batch of shots, or maybe a YouTube video of the car running and driving. :cheers::citroen:

Job exceptionally well done.
Good thinking 99 - I will get my daughter to put a few snippets together for a video. Just done another 45klm in the dusk with lights on and all good again… phew. Confidence is starting to return.
 

gsowner84

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Success on both fronts - I hope…

Today was roadworthy day and although she coughed a little on the way there and back she passed with flying colours!

As luck wanted it the club rego folks were also available to sign the paperwork and then off to VicRoads to get some plates - DONE. I have a road legal car!

View attachment 138952

I then had Elliot, a French mobile mechanic who knows a few things about DS over again and he brought with him a properly working condenser - 100% good. All three I have I was still doubtful about…

Whipped out the distributor again, put the new condenser in, cleaned and set points again, set the timing to about 6 degree before TDC, set the air mixture screw again and started the car… checked the HT lead resistance and temperatures. All ok so far.

Runs like a dream. Did a 40klm loop through the suburbs without hiccup. Excellent - seems to have been the issue all along. Still back on the old Bosch coil, the GT40 as spare.

Let’s hope this is the end of the ignition saga. New sets of points and condensers are in the mail from Darrin in the UK as backup.

Let’s hope is is happy motoring from here onwards. About time.

Thanks again for everyone’s suggestions, help, banter. Still keen to replace the worn carbie bottom - but less of a urgency now…

Sven
Sven

What a wonderful achievement and result. You must be so proud. Congratulations and I hope to see this wonderful Safari on the road.

Regards Syd
 

schlitzaugen

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Success on both fronts - I hope…

Today was roadworthy day and although she coughed a little on the way there and back she passed with flying colours!

As luck wanted it the club rego folks were also available to sign the paperwork and then off to VicRoads to get some plates - DONE. I have a road legal car!

View attachment 138952

I then had Elliot, a French mobile mechanic who knows a few things about DS over again and he brought with him a properly working condenser - 100% good. All three I have I was still doubtful about…

Whipped out the distributor again, put the new condenser in, cleaned and set points again, set the timing to about 6 degree before TDC, set the air mixture screw again and started the car… checked the HT lead resistance and temperatures. All ok so far.

Runs like a dream. Did a 40klm loop through the suburbs without hiccup. Excellent - seems to have been the issue all along. Still back on the old Bosch coil, the GT40 as spare.

Let’s hope this is the end of the ignition saga. New sets of points and condensers are in the mail from Darrin in the UK as backup.

Let’s hope is is happy motoring from here onwards. About time.

Thanks again for everyone’s suggestions, help, banter. Still keen to replace the worn carbie bottom - but less of a urgency now…

Sven

Well done.

The problems with crap new parts are getting so bad today, you can't rely on anything. I would try to get those capacitors checked on an old school type condenser checker to make sure they're any good before installing them. Something like this:


Alternatively, you can go to a Hall effect sensor and delete the capacitor and points and make wear in the dizzy shaft irrelevant too.

Coils could be monitored "live" too with some sort of electronic gizmo that would alert the driver when the spark is not happening. I'm not good enough to design the circuitry but I'm sure someone can.
 
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