After a large unintended break from work I'm back at it. Juts getting the body ready to be blasted. I found a guy who can come to me and blast it with water and glass, no booth required. Not all that cheap $1350 but the amount of time and swearing it will save me is at least that much. It'll probably help me find some more rust. For that amount I have him for a whole day so should be able to do all the panels, doors, control arms etc. Then I intend on giving it a coat of epoxy primer, then back to panel work. I should be able to spray the bottom straight away.
Christian's R10S
- Thread starter c.lees
- Start date
Well as you may have read other places on the forum I have decided to scrap 12 months worth of work. So here we go for take two. It has not been a wasted 12 months (for which a good chunk of I was injured and couldn't work on the car) as I have learnt a lot about panel work and welding 0.8mm sugar, which is what I swear this car is made out of.
Here is hoping the new one has a lot less tin worm damage, once I get the guards off I'll know more. It'll be getting blasted as there is a lot of body deadener on it. Once it's stripped and primed if shouldn't take too long to get some paint on it as it's pretty straight. I'll be chucking the interior as the other one had a great interior. Shortly I'l have a pair of new Spax adjustable shocks for a standard rear end up for sale as this one has a Gordini rear end and I'd be silly not to use it, just not looking forward to the $800 for the four new shocks.
On a side note I would not recommend towing a car trailer down Parramatta Rd late on a Saturday, the lanes are barely wide enough.
Here is hoping the new one has a lot less tin worm damage, once I get the guards off I'll know more. It'll be getting blasted as there is a lot of body deadener on it. Once it's stripped and primed if shouldn't take too long to get some paint on it as it's pretty straight. I'll be chucking the interior as the other one had a great interior. Shortly I'l have a pair of new Spax adjustable shocks for a standard rear end up for sale as this one has a Gordini rear end and I'd be silly not to use it, just not looking forward to the $800 for the four new shocks.
On a side note I would not recommend towing a car trailer down Parramatta Rd late on a Saturday, the lanes are barely wide enough.
Glad it worked out for you. Good luck
Character-building and good practice would be my way of rationalising that pain! Good call I'd say. A good shell is what really matters.
I can imagine the Parramatta Road drive - a friend of mine took out half a block of verandah posts there about 30 years ago with a truck. He didn't stop, or so he said......
Best of luck with the next one - the photos say 10S?
I can imagine the Parramatta Road drive - a friend of mine took out half a block of verandah posts there about 30 years ago with a truck. He didn't stop, or so he said......
Best of luck with the next one - the photos say 10S?
The new body is a R10 but with some R10S bits. The engine is the same as what I pulled out of the R10S, a 688-09. It has the earlier gearbox, the one without the little fin on the bottom, now I have two of the early type and one newer one. Not sure if I'll be able to call the new car when finished at R10S or not, although it's going to be modified somewhat.
Well done Christian, apart from the skills you've gained in the last 12 months you already seem to posses at least one vital character trait 'tenacity'. There's merit in changing course if you find a better mousetrap (in this case a better car body) the main thing is you haven't given up on achieving what you set out to do.
We're all behind you as you know if you need any more parts just holler we'll find you what you need I'm sure.
Keep us updated please..
We're all behind you as you know if you need any more parts just holler we'll find you what you need I'm sure.
Keep us updated please..
As 59 Floride said, shout if you need things. Plenty of us out here.
The later the gearbox the better AFAIK - stronger sun wheels later on. My R8 has a 10S gearbox. You'd have seen elsewhere, just today I think, that there will be a pair of new Spax adjustable rear shockers for sale soon, or was that you? Those adjustable rear Spaxes were still available new a few months back, as are Konis of course. All at a price....
Good luck with it.
It's been a long time coming but work has started again. In the mean time I have moved house, built a new shed and had surgery on my back. I debated starting a new thread as it's technically a different car. So now I have another R10S engine and another 330 gearbox although this one is a group A which I will probably jam some R16TS internals. There are options from here, K4M 1.6 engine from a Clio, 807 if I can find a good one, the 847 I have that's been rebuilt or a R10S engine as I have two of them, decisions, decisions.
First things first, I'm getting the body ready to go off and get stripped, I called Strip Safe who specialises in stripping cars by blasting them in various ways. I was quoted around $2000 and they will come and collect the car then drop it back off. That price includes a coat of epoxy primer and transport. They have their own rotisseries so they will put it on a dolly to move it. So it'll be a similar price to getting it dipped but this way all the parts you can't get paint on don't get stripped. Both methods have their pros and cons.
I also now have a dual shock rear end. The issue is I already have some nice shocks for the standard version. What are the advantages of the dual shock version? Is it that much better?
Some other things I have found, it had a R8G heater core, it's been repaired but it isn't blocked. The front springs have been shortened so I assume the rears have been as well, I'll check when I take them out. I found a Dunc Grey Velodrome handers pass in the glove box, now being a track cyclist myself, or is that ex-track cyclist as I haven't been on a track bike for a year I find this interesting. Who owned this car before Paul?
First things first, I'm getting the body ready to go off and get stripped, I called Strip Safe who specialises in stripping cars by blasting them in various ways. I was quoted around $2000 and they will come and collect the car then drop it back off. That price includes a coat of epoxy primer and transport. They have their own rotisseries so they will put it on a dolly to move it. So it'll be a similar price to getting it dipped but this way all the parts you can't get paint on don't get stripped. Both methods have their pros and cons.
I also now have a dual shock rear end. The issue is I already have some nice shocks for the standard version. What are the advantages of the dual shock version? Is it that much better?
Some other things I have found, it had a R8G heater core, it's been repaired but it isn't blocked. The front springs have been shortened so I assume the rears have been as well, I'll check when I take them out. I found a Dunc Grey Velodrome handers pass in the glove box, now being a track cyclist myself, or is that ex-track cyclist as I haven't been on a track bike for a year I find this interesting. Who owned this car before Paul?
The former owner that Paul got this car from was apparently a gun builder of custom bicycle frames as far as I know so was probably a keen cyclist himself I guess. I don't know the history before John K though.
KB
KB
If that is John Kitchen, then yes, a frame builder.
Correct
On rear dampers: my suggestion is that the 4 were originally fitted to fast R.E.R. of the era to resist fade on sustained fast rough road work.
But I think that if you had good modern dampers then a standard 2 springs/dampers set-up would do as well for for road work. By all means fit the 4 springs/dampers rear end for aesthetic reasons but I doubt that there would be any functional advantage.
However, if you are going to use shorter rear springs, then it's a good idea to have dampers whose stroke is suited to their travel. Your standard ones might thus not suit; that said, though, I have, over the decades, chopped rear springs by one turn on various R.E.R.s & kept original dampers without noticeable ill-effect.
What I currently use on the rear of my modified R8 & on my 4CVG is 2 Koni "red" R8 Gordini dampers (some fiddling required to fit in the standard mount). Set on the soft end of the spectrum rebound setting (the only adjustment) to avoid the chattering across the road one gets with overly limited control of droop movement, they work well with good control & without fade in my beasties' use (mostly on semi-even "C" roads & briskly driven).
cheers! Peter
But I think that if you had good modern dampers then a standard 2 springs/dampers set-up would do as well for for road work. By all means fit the 4 springs/dampers rear end for aesthetic reasons but I doubt that there would be any functional advantage.
However, if you are going to use shorter rear springs, then it's a good idea to have dampers whose stroke is suited to their travel. Your standard ones might thus not suit; that said, though, I have, over the decades, chopped rear springs by one turn on various R.E.R.s & kept original dampers without noticeable ill-effect.
What I currently use on the rear of my modified R8 & on my 4CVG is 2 Koni "red" R8 Gordini dampers (some fiddling required to fit in the standard mount). Set on the soft end of the spectrum rebound setting (the only adjustment) to avoid the chattering across the road one gets with overly limited control of droop movement, they work well with good control & without fade in my beasties' use (mostly on semi-even "C" roads & briskly driven).
cheers! Peter
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Call it what pleases you. (I call my 4CV 'Gordini' & doubt that the sorcerer would disapprove of having his name attached to it.)
cheers! Peter
John K still makes racing frames. He has also just completed 10 Penny Farthings (5 being for the 200 Yr Bathurst celebrations). Besides being a frame/bike builder he is also an engineer and re-engineers some great stuff.
The R10 in question was fitted with my R8G engine for a while hence the air intake on the radiator panel.
Good to see the car coming along, John will be pleased, I'll keep him informed on your progress.
I have zero experience with the duel shock rear end, so take this with a grain of salt, but I agree with Pete. I would have thought a lighter set up (single shock rear) would be preferable with high quality shocks used, keeping in mind many people like to shift the tank and radiator up front to even up the weight distribution of these little beasts.
Work has begun in ernest now. Besides a stuck bolt or two its mostly stripped down to the shell ready to go for blasting. Before sending it away I've decided to fix a few parts like the crack on the inside of the rear passengers wheel well. I think this was caused by the dual shock rear end it had in it. It's a good thing I like welding in challenging locations, half was done from the outside, the other half from the inside as the strengthening plate on the outside was over the crack.
I've found a few dodgy rust repairs, you know the ones you do to just get it through rego, nice hole in the floor near the pedals. I'll wait for it to be blasted before fixing this one so I know how far to cut it back.
I've found a few dodgy rust repairs, you know the ones you do to just get it through rego, nice hole in the floor near the pedals. I'll wait for it to be blasted before fixing this one so I know how far to cut it back.
This car had the wrong tail lights fitted so before I got rid of the old body I cut the tail light sections out. I've now welded them in, for your viewing pleasure there are before and after photos.
I then spent some time straightening the pinch weld along the bottom of the sills. Had this car been paddock bashed, none of it was straight. In my straightening I noticed the panel under the passenger side foot well looked like it was in upside down with some very dodgy looking welds. Cut the welds and about a cup of rust flake fell out. So much for a rust free car. There are two holes in the chassis rail, repairable but I'll wait for it to be blasted before repairing and of it so I can see how far to cut it back.
I then spent some time straightening the pinch weld along the bottom of the sills. Had this car been paddock bashed, none of it was straight. In my straightening I noticed the panel under the passenger side foot well looked like it was in upside down with some very dodgy looking welds. Cut the welds and about a cup of rust flake fell out. So much for a rust free car. There are two holes in the chassis rail, repairable but I'll wait for it to be blasted before repairing and of it so I can see how far to cut it back.
Attachments
No actual work has been done on the 10, but I have extracted the potential engine from the donor, K4M from a 2003 Clio 2. It'll need a timing belt. It was a horrible job getting it out, rest of the Clio will be getting parted out, stand by for details.
It looks like the bell housing will fit the block without too much modification, one problem, the flywheel doesn't fit in the bell housing so a different fly wheel is in order, the thread I found about someone else doing this into a A110 mentions an R18 flywheel. Does any one know if they have the timing teeth? Just putting a trigger wheel on the crank pulley will be problematic as it's not keyed to my knowledge. Can't key the crank without taking it out.
The K4M is larger then the 688 that came out, let's hope I don't need to modify the boot lid. Custom manifolds will be in order.
One thing for sure, I'll end up with a unique vehicle in the end.
The 10 body gets collect tomorrow for striping.
It looks like the bell housing will fit the block without too much modification, one problem, the flywheel doesn't fit in the bell housing so a different fly wheel is in order, the thread I found about someone else doing this into a A110 mentions an R18 flywheel. Does any one know if they have the timing teeth? Just putting a trigger wheel on the crank pulley will be problematic as it's not keyed to my knowledge. Can't key the crank without taking it out.
The K4M is larger then the 688 that came out, let's hope I don't need to modify the boot lid. Custom manifolds will be in order.
One thing for sure, I'll end up with a unique vehicle in the end.
The 10 body gets collect tomorrow for striping.
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What colour stripes?
Good luck with it all - always a pleasure to follow a job like this, so thanks for the posts.
Cheers
Good luck with it all - always a pleasure to follow a job like this, so thanks for the posts.
Cheers