is it a forge ?Lake Goldsmith....
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blower drive still to add.....
Favourite hearth with the home made set ups looks to be a truck brake drum, this one is bit flasher.
Bob
Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
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G'day Shane,
yep, they load 'em up with coke and run the blower through them when they want the extra heat above ember temperature. Mostly used by traveling farriers.
Go for the day trip next open day at Lake Goldsmith, 1st weekend in November I think for the next one, great education...
Bob
G'day Shane,
yep, they load 'em up with coke and run the blower through them when they want the extra heat above ember temperature. Mostly used by traveling farriers.
Go for the day trip next open day at Lake Goldsmith, 1st weekend in November I think for the next one, great education...
Bob
I spotted this pop up yesterday on facebook marketplace. It was being sold as needing a new motor ... but the motor and all the bits to attach it were still with it in a box. The owner had tried to get the motor fixed/rewound or replaced. but had been told it would take months to get to. So he just threw it in the corner of the shed and forgot about it.
I chucked a 3 pin plug on the motor and plugged it in ... thinking it'll probably work if I spin it as it'll just need a start cap ..... I plugged it in ... it started spinning, then with a "bang" blew a shower of sparks out of the back of it and popped the sheds circuit breaker... hmm.... I can't say I was expecting that...... Its a bit strange as it doesn't smell burnt in the slightest.
Hmm... looks like its short against the top there.
See the screw, its shorted there.
There is a centriple mechanism here for some reason ... and its missing a spring on one side..... Arrrhh.... got it Its over expanding and shorting. A quick drive up to bunnings to find a suitable spring to cut down .... Fit it up thinking "fixed" ..... she starts spinning "Bang" ... sparks out the back .... circuit breaker gone again .... Hmmmmm
So I pull it back apart, I need to actually understand what this is doing.
So the weights are being thrown out and pushing the center up againt this top cap. Which pushes that big ring up (which turns out to be a contact switch for the wiring to it). So i followed the wiring and found the start capacitor. Ok, this makes sense. The start capacitor circuit is closed while the motor isn't spinning, once it spins upto speed the centripetal weights are pushing the switch open. only the weight mechanism is managing to touch the switch plate contacts and short it out.
So I played around with the centripetal mechanism and found it was loose on the shaft, the grub screw is slightly loose and its moved down the shaft. So I pushed it back down the shaft, tightened the grub screw and the motor worked straight away without the shower of sparks and bangs
I'm not sure it this thing is a dinky little useless toy or not, but it looks like it can stand verticle and be used as a verticle band saw, or used as a horizontal cold cut saw.
I'm not sure what these attachements are for (well the plate is obvious, its so you can use it vertically). there is two new blades there and a couple of brackets and sheets of paper. i guess I better search online for a users manual.
Attachments
That is a centrifugal switch, that switches out the start winding when the motor gets up to speed.View attachment 205868
I spotted this pop up yesterday on facebook marketplace. It was being sold as needing a new motor ... but the motor and all the bits to attach it were still with it in a box. The owner had tried to get the motor fixed/rewound or replaced. but had been told it would take months to get to. So he just threw it in the corner of the shed and forgot about it.
I chucked a 3 pin plug on the motor and plugged it in ... thinking it'll probably work if I spin it as it'll just need a start cap ..... I plugged it in ... it started spinning, then with a "bang" blew a shower of sparks out of the back of it and popped the sheds circuit breaker... hmm.... I can't say I was expecting that...... Its a bit strange as it doesn't smell burnt in the slightest.
View attachment 205873
Hmm... looks like its short against the top there.
View attachment 205876
See the screw, its shorted there.View attachment 205874View attachment 205875
There is a centriple mechanism here for some reason ... and its missing a spring on one side..... Arrrhh.... got it Its over expanding and shorting. A quick drive up to bunnings to find a suitable spring to cut down .... Fit it up thinking "fixed" ..... she starts spinning "Bang" ... sparks out the back .... circuit breaker gone again .... Hmmmmm
So I pull it back apart, I need to actually understand what this is doing.
So the weights are being thrown out and pushing the center up againt this top cap. Which pushes that big ring up (which turns out to be a contact switch for the wiring to it). So i followed the wiring and found the start capacitor. Ok, this makes sense. The start capacitor circuit is closed while the motor isn't spinning, once it spins upto speed the centripetal weights are pushing the switch open. only the weight mechanism is managing to touch the switch plate contacts and short it out.
So I played around with the centripetal mechanism and found it was loose on the shaft, the grub screw is slightly loose and its moved down the shaft. So I pushed it back down the shaft, tightened the grub screw and the motor worked straight away without the shower of sparks and bangs
Yes there should be a spring on each side as you have worked out. There also looks like a screw between the rotor and the switch. Has this come loose and the switch moved up the shaft causing the shorting out problem that you have?
It would also be wise to remove as much of that carbon as you can from the windings and also from the switch to stop more shorting issues down the track.
Here is a link that will help explain what a centrifugal switch does:
That machine will be fine for your needs, Shane. I have one much the same. The only issue is you have to watch the small thin blade doesn't drift off course. The bracket with the long crew is an adjustable stop for cutting to length.
Roger
Roger
Yeah, that is exactly what I worked out
I'm thinking it'll be good for making up exhausts. I'm not paying the crazy $$$ for CX/DS exhausts. I'm going to have a crack at making my own. Rather than using bends, you can just make the angles using pie cuts.
it should be easy enough to make a stainless exhaust
Do any of the old fogies ( 
) here know how this thing works? Some is obvious, but there is a lever that moves a flap inside that I have no idea about. And why would you want to pull the front off the flu ?? .... And fill your house with smoke ... hmmmm
My sister/brother inlaw gave it to me. So I might throw it out outside next to the BBQ.
) here know how this thing works? Some is obvious, but there is a lever that moves a flap inside that I have no idea about. And why would you want to pull the front off the flu ?? .... And fill your house with smoke ... hmmmmMy sister/brother inlaw gave it to me. So I might throw it out outside next to the BBQ.
That'd make a darn good shed heater I reckon. Put a coffee brewer on top and some pied in the over, bring a swag and you'd never have to stop working on cars.
We have a 7.5 x 7.5 meter carport at the back of our house that I have mostly enclosed with windows/sliding doors from facebook market place. I'll put it out there so people can sit around it. Apparently the cheapest place to get a flu kit is bbq galore, you ask for a "shed kit".
All I can say is obviously the "burny" bit is on the left, with an ashtray to pull out to clean every day or so, and where you put the chopped up wood for burning.
Is that a small lever at the right hand side of the flue box, near the bottom? It will be the "flue flap" for want of a better description. Open to the flue/chimney when starting the fire, and at same time open the turning vent on the left front door. The draft of air will get the fire roaring, and after it is burning fiercely with little smoke, gradually close the flap and the lower vent to keep the heat in the stove and to slow the burning rate.
If there is another flap inside it may be to direct hot air to either the oven, or the lower chamber (I don't know what that is for), or to the hot plates. The hot plates look like they have the standard notch for lifting out when hot - is it that blue-handled tool on the floor?
I think these were called "slow comustion" stoves.
We only had the usual Metters wood stoves.
Is that a small lever at the right hand side of the flue box, near the bottom? It will be the "flue flap" for want of a better description. Open to the flue/chimney when starting the fire, and at same time open the turning vent on the left front door. The draft of air will get the fire roaring, and after it is burning fiercely with little smoke, gradually close the flap and the lower vent to keep the heat in the stove and to slow the burning rate.
If there is another flap inside it may be to direct hot air to either the oven, or the lower chamber (I don't know what that is for), or to the hot plates. The hot plates look like they have the standard notch for lifting out when hot - is it that blue-handled tool on the floor?
I think these were called "slow comustion" stoves.
We only had the usual Metters wood stoves.
On a Google search "What is the little panel just under the oven door on the IXL 72 stove?"
Answer: "This is a little vent to tilt out when the stove is shut down to slow the combustion down. This save wood and may eliminate relighting the fire."
Answer: "This is a little vent to tilt out when the stove is shut down to slow the combustion down. This save wood and may eliminate relighting the fire."
yeah the flap in the flu is weird, it closes off the front half of the flue that goes down into the back of the stove. it would be interesting to see a parts diagram so you can see what the routes of air/smoke through the thing are
I haven't seen one like this since I was a kid. During winter it never went out. That meant a lot of wood splitting work for someone.
It was a clean modern range that was preferred over the old black built-in cast iron monster that was hard to clean. That one took coke or even coal as well as wood.
There's some cash in these things, see https://wood2burn.com
It was a clean modern range that was preferred over the old black built-in cast iron monster that was hard to clean. That one took coke or even coal as well as wood.
There's some cash in these things, see https://wood2burn.com
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Yes, once upon a time I was one of those someones; short wood for the stove, long pieces for the two fireplaces.
@Fordman has provided an excellent description of operation. The stove I used was a smaller model and didn’t have the lower warming oven - that’s for keeping all the food warm as you prepare your multiple course dinner party. Adjust the turning vent to control flame and sometimes crack the oven door to control the internal temperature so you don’t burn the lemon meringue pie. The built in temp gauge on the oven door was never especially accurate so we had a separate oven thermometer.
Ours was a newer model and didn’t have the hatch on the front of the flue. I speculate perhaps that is access for cleaning soot from the flue to avoid chimney fires?
Ah, now I want pie....
Hi.Do any of the old fogies (
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We had an identicle IXL in our family farm house, but with the black enammel with white spatter marks. My grandparents had an even older IXL model.
We used to cook field mushrooms in butter on the hot plates, yum.
The rectangular slot beneath the oven, we used a long poker with a right angle flat end say 17mm wide, to rake the ash out of the slot.
The lever beneath the RH corner of the oven, is a damper that directs more hot flue gas to either the main oven or the lower plate warmer.
I can't quite recall, but I think the damper in the bottom of the flue was used for lighting the fire, not sure on this.
Ours had the hot water tank adjacent to the fire box to heat water for the gravity hot water tank. No fire, no hot water.
Cheers.
Yes, damper on the base of the flue for starting.
Slot under the oven was to clear out ash as the heat circulates clockwise around the oven chamber and back to the firebox.
Had another thought about the flue hatch - if it’s separated from the smoke coming from the fire box could it have functioned to draw air from inside the room up the chimney? If the stove is used for cooking and heating water all year round I’d want windows open for fresh air and heat venting up the chimney.
Mr Someone, did you have a wood chip heater for the bath? They were fabulous and puffed away with a steady whoof-whoof. There was a funnel on the top. Much more fun than city gas geysers. All you had to do was lean over and drop in some wood from the bucket if the bath or shower ran cold, but my elders rationed the wood. That also rationed water.
There's a YT, though ours had a shiny plated case with the coil fed direct from the house supply, so you could also have a low pressure shower..
There's a YT, though ours had a shiny plated case with the coil fed direct from the house supply, so you could also have a low pressure shower..
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