I actually have them in abundance (when I can find them) due to all the Japanese motorcycles I've had, and have.
I don't know that I've used a 10mm on the DS, 8mm definately, not a 10mm though.
Tool Talk
- Thread starter jo proffi
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I don't know that I've used a 10mm on the DS, 8mm definately, not a 10mm though.
I actually have them in abundance (when I can find them) due to all the Japanese motorcycles I've had, and have.
I don't know that I've used a 10mm on the DS, 8mm definately, not a 10mm though.
So you are probably the only person on the forum with JIS screwdrivers as well then ? We really only need posidrive for the european cars
As I said, only the earliest Dees used 10mm bolt heads. Most of them are no longer running. Most Dees on the road today use 11mm.I don't know that I've used a 10mm on the DS, 8mm definately, not a 10mm though.
Roger
I've heard in the past repco branded tools are quite good. I have a tension wrench for ALDI here. They are made in germany from memory. But how can you possibly test there accuracy ? Its a bit like a tyre pressure gauge, how can you check its accuracy? you need a tested, known accurate gauge to test what you have against
Shane, this might give you a guide, as per Seasink's suggestion:
The next problem is how to adjust. One method in that video for that type of wrench. My new Repco/Norbar doesn't have that adjuster, but I can see a collet type of nut at tube end of handgrip so that might be it. I won't be checking it anyway with its factory calibration.
The old W&B Dual Signal tension wrench is easy, the little black square bit that lines up to the scale is able to screw in & out for calibration.
Using a similar principle, I overhauled a few Mazda rotary engines for B.I.L's speedway cars many years ago. The flywheel removal and replacement is the most difficult physical part of the operation. For tightening the single 54mm a.f. nut to 300 ft/lbs (pretty tight) we had a self made shallow 54mm hex socket welded to a 20mm steel bar about 600mm long, with a mark at 450mm (18") from centre. As we both weighed about 90kg (200lbs) one of us would grip the bar one hand each side of the mark, and tighten until you could lift both feet off the ground! I think it was pretty accurate for the purpose. We had to restrain the motor from turning with a long lever out the opposite side, and the motor was on the floor.
Don't think I've used an 11mm on it either. Anything I've had to touch has been either 8mm or:
?14mm, it's been a while, whatever the bumper bolts are.
you need to work on more citroens .... 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, etc... the traction even has A/F brake fasteners with chevrons cast into the headDon't think I've used an 11mm on it either. Anything I've had to touch has been either 8mm or:
?14mm, it's been a while, whatever the bumper bolts are.
Not too many of those since the 70s, most Jap bikes made in the last 40 years used hex heads or allen screws.
Errrr, the plan is not to if I can help it.
Going back as I am not following this thread:Do any of the old fogies (
) here know how this thing works? Some is obvious, but there is a lever that moves a flap inside that I have no idea about. And why would you want to pull the front off the flu ?? .... And fill your house with smoke ... hmmmm
View attachment 206554
View attachment 206553
My sister/brother inlaw gave it to me. So I might throw it out outside next to the BBQ.
Having cooked on these type stoves [but Number 5's big ones] in the Army Reserves @ Northam in WA.
Simple just like convection @ work in your cars cooling system with a thermostat.
Cool air enters under the fire after the fire one can either have wide open damper in the out pipe when starting.
Once fire is good the damper can be feathered & restricting/closing air flow under the fire keeps a hot mass in the hot box going.
Adjusting both is not difficult. JG.
Upon reflection I used an 11mm to remove the boot lid, a 13mm on the battery terminals and I think a 19mm on the rear guards? Add those to the 8mm and 14mm already mentioned and I only have 9 sizes to go.you need to work on more citroens .... 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, etc... the traction even has A/F brake fasteners with chevrons cast into the head
Shane, you have forgotten the really special sizes in a DS, like 23, 29 and 35mm. And of course 42mm in a GS.
Then there are the Whitworth bolts in Slough-built Citroens.
Roger
Then there are the Whitworth bolts in Slough-built Citroens.
Roger
Haven't needed a 42mm, but the other three sizes I've used. Some Jap cars have 23mm drain plugs, my ETC socket set I bought some 40 years ago came with one.
I have a deep 29mm socket that I bought to change an oil sender on an old Subaru.
I had a 35mm which I'd bought for a transfer case flange nut on an old Ford, turned out it also fitted the front bolt in the crankshaft snout on my 1924 Bean perfectly. I turned it down slightly to accept an external seal and used it to drive a front mounted GM supercharger via an extension bar.
I think I found the traction ball joint nuts were 26 or 28mm .... a really strange size. I had to buy a single hex socket and grind it down to make sure I had enough bite.
35mm is easy .... CX driveshaft nut (infact its used in a couple of places). Go to your local junk market and search for a 1 3/8" socket
Hi,I've heard in the past repco branded tools are quite good. I have a tension wrench for ALDI here. They are made in germany from memory. But how can you possibly test there accuracy ? Its a bit like a tyre pressure gauge, how can you check its accuracy? you need a tested, known accurate gauge to test what you have against
If it is a 1/2" square drive wrench to be checked, you can use another borrowed one and set the settings of the two to the same, say 70Nm. Use a 15mm socket, a 15mm socket fits nicely on a 1/2" square, and you can put the 2 wrenches almost parallel for ease of testing. Push them towards each other and they should click almost at the same time.
Normally 2 wrenches won't be out by the exact amount, we hope.
Frans.
This is now my little collection of torque wrenches - I think I've got it pretty well covered now!
330 Nm 1/2"drive Sykes-Pickavant - purchased years ago specifically for Corolla front axle nuts, one is LH thread and high torque.
200 Nm 1/2"drive Repco - the new one to fill a gap - great for wheel nuts.
110 Nm 3/8"drive W&B Dual Signal - nice for engine work - about 40 years old.
150 in/lbs 1/4"drive W&B Dual Signal - good for auto trans work - also about 40 years old - when I had my own business.
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Heaven help us! Whitworth bolts from Slough? Live and learn....
Renault managed metric banjo bolts and securing bolts (10mm spanner) on the English spec. Lockheed drum brakes on 4CVs and Dauphines. The master cylinder and wheel cylinder IDs are all Imperial sizes like 13/16" and metric sizes just don't work. They have 7" and 9" drums respectively, expressed in exact mm sizes in the manuals. (Not relevant but amusing to note that a Dauphine had the same diameter drum brakes as an FJ Holden.)
I now only own Fordman's 3/8" twelve inch W&B, having disposed of the rest.
This one is accurate, and I can deal with high torque fixings with a nifty American flat extension bar, which has a 1/2" square hole exactly one foot from the centre of the drive. It multiplies the W&B by two.
The extension bar ratchet drives can be popped out, and I have two for it, a 3/4" for the really big sockets, and a 1/2" for the rest. The torque wrench by itself can do smaller fixings.
Being about 60 years old the torque wrench is marked in ft.lbs. It is still kept in the waxed paper in the box it came in. Those things were quality. You can still get one.
This one is accurate, and I can deal with high torque fixings with a nifty American flat extension bar, which has a 1/2" square hole exactly one foot from the centre of the drive. It multiplies the W&B by two.
The extension bar ratchet drives can be popped out, and I have two for it, a 3/4" for the really big sockets, and a 1/2" for the rest. The torque wrench by itself can do smaller fixings.
Being about 60 years old the torque wrench is marked in ft.lbs. It is still kept in the waxed paper in the box it came in. Those things were quality. You can still get one.