The "Special Tool" thread

Is this the ultimate Citroen mechanic's tool?

No! The head is not sufficiently persuasive.


Re the HP pumps ... You see some mangled pump covers, even on quite well kept cars. I have a similar HP pump tool to pottsy made from a bar bent in a semi-circle and with a back welded to it. Three bolts pull the pump body out of the cover without any fuss or grease and oil bath. It fits a DS pump, but doesn't suit a CX pump as the body is different.
 
My clockwork brakes are leaking and the manual shows a special tool (2129-T) to release? the pads, which I don't have. Could someone please post some measurements, or even a picture (cross section) so I can make one up, thanks.
 
Get a piece of mild steel rod the diameter of a number 3 Phillips screwdriver and cut 6 grooves in one end with a hacksaw. So it's like a Phillips screwdriver with 6 grooves, but the grooves are maybe 15mm long. The shaft is about 3 or 4 inches long, then add a simple universal joint, then another6 inches or so, then a simple crank 9right angle bend, then an inch or inch and a half, then another right angle bend, then another inch or inch and a half.

Do not try to make do with a Phillips screwdriver, the grooves do not match the grooves in the wheel you are trying to turn and you will damage the wheel.

There are no official dimensioned drawings of the tool, but there are drawings of it in use on plate 143 of the 1962 DS19 repair manual available for free download. See the manuals thread at the top of this page (which might be within the excellent threads thread).

Roger
 
The pads tool... maybe if you stick a semi-molten candle in there, pressing hard, and when it's cool take it out, you'd have... well, a wax impression for it :·)
 
Resizing teflon seals

Hello,

I thought I'd throw this in in case it helps someone with stretching/resizing teflon seals (steering racks, older auto transmissions etc. - I used this method for rebuilding a GM 4 speed auto and it worked for me. The resizing tools for GM transmissions cost $100s and are sort after s/h...

Why is it in a zip file? The 100kb limit for PDFs/docs etc was too low even after reducing the file size...

View attachment TeflonSealResizing.pdf.zip



Cheers,

Chris




 
I have had a floor hoist for some time, but it has not done much work. The other Friday night I picked up an engine from the freight depot. When I got home I put the hoist to work, but it failed to proceed (lift). Still I managed to get the engine on the floor with some wiggling of the trailer out from under the floor hoist and lowered the engine to the floor. Couple of days later I went to use the hoist to lift the engine on a floor trolley, but it no longer had any life. Hmm, I polite thought to myself, just what I needed.

The solution was surprisingly simple even for a non-hydraulic person like myself.

I picked up the required goods

DSCN0008.jpg


I found a rubber plug halfway up the hydraulic thinggie, for topping up the oil

DSCN0006a.jpg


I removed the rubber plug, opened the valve to lower the boom to its lowest point and added hydraulic jack oil to the hydraulic thinggie and the hoist came to life:-

DSCN0002.jpg

DSCN0003.jpg


:headbang:
 
And the cheap as anything hydraulic bottle jacks can be convinced to work whilst on their side by a little overfilling.

Then they can be used to push out parking dents in the "children's first car".

Don't ask how I know.
 
I have had a floor hoist for some time, but it has not done much work.

I found a rubber plug halfway up the hydraulic thinggie, for topping up the oil. I removed the rubber plug, opened the valve to lower the boom to its lowest point and added hydraulic jack oil to the hydraulic thinggie and the hoist came to life:-

That's the way to do it: with the boom lowered, top up the oil through the hole until it's full and starts to run out. You might want to investigate why you needed to top up and look for significant leaks. - just for reasons of safety.
 
Yeah, did cross my mind, but there has never been any sign of oil leak on the hoist or underneath it. I never checked the oil level when I bought it (maybe 3-5 years ago) so the cynical me wondered if it may have been delivered with just enough oil? It was relatively cheap on sale new at just under $200. I'll keep an eye on it.
 
I found this idea elsewhere, this tumbler was used to clean nuts and bolts. It looks to me like it is a tumbles that is used for cleaning brass shells for reloading. Can't see why it would not clean for nuts and bolts. Not sure that it would remove rust?

Tumbler.jpg
 
Sphere removal tool.
After almost 45 years of trying all sorts of tools to take difficult spheres off.....
This is it.
20210309_141242.jpg

If you have other sized spheres, it would not be difficult to make one for each size.
A bit of 25x3 flat for the strap.
A bit of 40x6 for the handle.
2 M6 bolts 35 long with nylocs.
A bit of bending and cutting,
2 dabs of weld. Done.
 
Sphere removal tool.
After almost 45 years of trying all sorts of tools to take difficult spheres off.....
This is it. View attachment 131068
If you have other sized spheres, it would not be difficult to make one for each size.
A bit of 25x3 flat for the strap.
A bit of 40x6 for the handle.
2 M6 bolts 35 long with nylocs.
A bit of bending and cutting,
2 dabs of weld. Done.

Access for the tool is often the hardest part. My favorite sphere removal tool, is a 1/2" tube socket with hole drilled into it (to hold a length of seat belt webbing in place with a bolt and two washers)....... To this you attach the appropriate length of breaker bar (or breaker bar extension). I've found when the spheres are tight enough, you start twisting the cylinder out of its mouthing clips even with the car on high :eek: .......

Have you figured out any smart way to hold the sphere halves (so they can be unscrewed) without distorting or badly squeezing the threaded area so it binds.
 
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