Quick paint job anyone ????

Hi Smiffy,

I'm not doubting my ability ...... To screw up everything at least 10times before I get it close to right ...:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

Another 1hour 15min tonight. I finished wet rubbing the bonnet. What a bloody huge panel, there's a lot of work in that . Upto about 24hours now.

I think I'll wet rub the roof next and get the biggest panels out of the way.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Another hour last night ... 25hours now. I've wet sanded the bulk of the roof back... So far so good. I haven't come across anything that'll need to be fixed yet.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Any tips on bogging up dents?

Got a small one in the roof & the damned door lock that someone hammered in...!

I assume i have to beat it out as much as possible, sand back the current paint & then fill it up & sand back...

I'd like to put something behind the hole though, dont think bog will fill the gap by itself solidly...

Tips?
Any tricks with the bog application?
 
Obviously your R5 is a basket case, and beyond DIY repair.
I'll do you a favour and take it of your hands for $500 :joker:

Seriously tho, I have a spot in the door I have cut out, (ill attach a photo) that is the same, wouldn't want to bog it alone. I'll be (asking shane nicely) spotting in a peice of metal first, knocking it back and bogging to finish before painting. Sounds like you could do with a nice solid piece for structural support, (with a hole cut in it for the lock) welded in first. Got any Photos?

David.
 
I'll probably upset someone now by naming names but for Nate's repair he could talk to "John Lynn" panelbeaters in Thornleigh (no heads up backsides there). If there is metal removed or destroyed then filler isn't going to do the job alone. You would need a small patch MIG welded in.

For dents with paint, like on the roof, get an opinion from a paintless dent removal person.

A "backed" repair (not butt welded but one behind the other) risks corrosion starting in the lap. This is not the case when the lap is 100% filled with a panel bonding product like Fusor or the 3M equivalent.

Filler is highly porous, primer slightly less so but topcoat does the job of topcoat best (not surprising!). Filler should always be sealed with a good coat of primer - even if it needs further filling or sanding later. Hopefully Shane is going to post a pic of his bleeding, raw, fingertips tonight as he slaves toward that new gloss. There's 2-3m³ on a roof, and you really appreciate that when wetsanding!

Cheers, Adam.
 
Hi Guys,

I say bog them if the metal is sound. You see I have some old ID19 doors here that I thought were perfect ... I found a small bit of filler in the bottom corner of one of the doors. So I decided to take it back to bare metal. I found the whole bottom of both doors from the crease down (ie: whole lower door skin) was bog that was at least 1cm deep :eek: :eek: :eek:

The doors must have had whole new lower sections welded in about 30years ago... the whole area bashed down with big hammers and several kgs of filler used over the top. It was still perfect and sound ... and was probably 30years old (very faded buggered black paint on the top).

So if the metal is sound, I'd just get it as level as possible (or slightly low) then bog it over. The door lock if the metal is sound should be ok to fill to. I can only see a problem if you bogging under the door handle as the force applied to the handle to close the door may crack the filler.

I think plastic filler is bloody brilliant stuff !!!

seeya
Shane L.
PS: Addo, my hands are fine , you see I've been wearing strong rubber gloves while sanding ... (you don't need a good sense of touch to wet rub... The complete opposite to trying to straighten metal) :)
 
yeah i was thinking i need to cover the hole with something a little stronger...

Basically i just have to fill the hole where the door lock was... so maybe a 10-20c sized hole...
i'd rather back it with something, otherwise i think i'd see the door flex & movement popping the bog out eventually...
 
So your actually removing the door lock ??? So blanking off the hole.

Yep plastic filler is useless for this task. You need to weld some metal in there. If your really dodgy you could hammer the surrounding area low so there's some area for fiberglass filler to key into .... Fiberglass stranded filler is very strong (but I wouldn't personally do this).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
If you don't have access to a welder, the other way, is to pop rivet a plate on the inside of the door using countersunk rivets, and then hit the rivets inwards with a hammer, then use filler to get the contour back how you want it. Ok, it sounds like butchery, and it is, but if you are good with filler, and a sander, you would never know the difference!!! john s
 
I've reinforced large caverns with fly screen mesh as reinforcement before today and that's worked well. If you just clean behind before you start if possible and cover the mesh with bog, then press it against the metal, let it dry and then build up from there it seems to hang in there pretty well.
Kind of thing you do if you're doing a hit 'n run rather than something you intend keeping just the same.


Alan S:2cents:
 
DoubleChevron said:
So your actually removing the door lock ??? So blanking off the hole.

Yep plastic filler is useless for this task. You need to weld some metal in there. If your really dodgy you could hammer the surrounding area low so there's some area for fiberglass filler to key into .... Fiberglass stranded filler is very strong (but I wouldn't personally do this).

seeya,
Shane L.
Click to expand...

Yeah some piece of )#($*# removed it for me with a screwdriver & hammer...
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32579

Welder it'll have to be!

Whats the biggest hole you'd try to fill with bog?
(that wouldnt be a butcher job)
Or do you weld every hole up & just use the bog to smooth it off?
(bog isnt structural is it...!)
 
Personally I would fill *any* hole with filler. Filler IMO is strictly to level a sounds surface.... It's only reason for being is to make bent metal look nice n' straight :)

It WILL fall out if you try to cover a hole or rust with it. The only varaible is how long it will take to fall out. Fiberglass filler is *much* stronger, however I'd just cut out a bit of metal and head up to the local exhaust place and ask them to weld it in for you before I'd even dream of bogging it up.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
nate said:
Any tips on bogging up dents?

Got a small one in the roof & the damned door lock that someone hammered in...!

I assume i have to beat it out as much as possible, sand back the current paint & then fill it up & sand back...

I'd like to put something behind the hole though, dont think bog will fill the gap by itself solidly...

Tips?
Any tricks with the bog application?
Click to expand...


G day Nate
er.... nice wheels :cool: very cool!

Fibre glass is an exellent way to cover holes not only that it can set stronger than steel, Here you will see how I covered two holes
Just go to your local bunnings pick an up $25 fibre glass kit cheap as chips

Dan
 

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Does the resin stick to the metal that well though?

I wouldnt think it'd grip, then the panel would flex & the fibreglass would pop off...

Metal is the proper/only way it seems...
 
nate said:
Does the resin stick to the metal that well though?

I wouldnt think it'd grip, then the panel would flex & the fibreglass would pop off...

Metal is the proper/only way it seems...
Click to expand...

Fibre glass is flexible too, an theres complete cars made of it so dont be such a soft fuzzy wazzy try it you will suprize yourself:joker:

Dan
 
nate said:
Does the resin stick to the metal that well though?

I wouldnt think it'd grip, then the panel would flex & the fibreglass would pop off...

Metal is the proper/only way it seems...
Click to expand...

The 5T2 is too nice a car to stuff around with. Take it somewhere where the hole can be restored properly, likely by welding and possibly shrinking the stretched metal.

The door lock barrels are identical to Fuego Neiman barrels, so there should be no problem obtaining replacements. If cretins want to get in they'll get in, if not by the lock then by other means just to PYO even if it is alarmed to the teeth. But keep the car door as from the factory, then there will be no problems with bog shrinkage down the track, and no experts asking what happened to the lock barrel :).
 
I spent about 1hour today on the CX.

Drivers door has been wet rubbed back and I used the wire brush in the grinder to knock all the tape off the rear window surround in preparation for painting.

Upto 26 hours now ... However I did find a very small dent at the very bottom of the drivers door (bugger :nownow: ). Next time I'll have to make sure I crawl around on the ground and check the very base of the doors :disappr: No big problem really, it's so small I should be able to fix it wihotu any damage to the rest of the wet rubbed panel.

Just 3doors to go now before I can give the majority of the body some top coat and re-assemble :party:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Another 2hours tonight .... drivers side rear dear and quarter panel rubbed back.... Talk about slow & time consuming.

28hours now :eek: You'd want to have a forgiving wife/partner :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
She's looking good ....

I took a quick photo at work this morning :


cxatwork.jpg


I usually find lots of empty spaces around it, and no new dents (and people really give way to me on the roads :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: ).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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Looks like you'd see on "Beaterz.com" with a huge wing photoshopped onto it.

Don't worry about people not parking near you. Once it's painted, they'll be like flies at a barbie. Too many, too close, too often...
 
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