It wasn't possible to do this at all until last year I think.DoubleChevron said:
As long as the original British number plate of a vehicle is known, it should be possible to trace it. john s
Quick paint job anyone ????
- Thread starter DoubleChevron
- Start date
As long as the original British number plate of a vehicle is known, it should be possible to trace it. john s
Well Guys,
this is the only repair on the whole car, the only panel that doesn't have paint that is 4microns thick and you could scrape off your nail in the rear passenger quater panel... it was obvious when we bought the car that this panel had been resprayed as it was a slightly different colour ...
When I removed the rubber strip I found this:
What a bloody shocker ... This would have been an expensive repair (baked 2pack spray on it).... When I ran my hand over the repair it was up 'n' down :disappr:
Gee's what do you pay people for ... I'll have to find out who did this repair and send them my bill :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:
15minutes work with the air speedfile (including bogging it up) has near perfection. It's got a slight low where the bumper was (as I didn't remove the bumper until I noticed htis). I will finish this repair tomorrow .... Why can a backyarder fix something in 15minutes... yet the pro's have screwed it up over in the UK
The different colour filler is what I've levelled it.
Here's a good example... It's the only dent in the front passenger door (just a carpark battle scar from a 4WD's door).
These are what really confused me when I tried to fix the hail damage on my first car (a renault 12)... I just *couldn't* get it straight (though it looks ok) I could still feel under my hand. Of course it stood out like dogs balls after the car was painted.
All you need to do is tap the shiny metal bit down until it's level (or low) with a hammer and re-bog it and it'll come out perfect.
No car to drive tomorrow ... I got carried away and haven't found time to finish these repairs so I can drive tomorow:disappr:
Anothe 1.5hours... Upto 11hours now.
seeya,
Shane L.
this is the only repair on the whole car, the only panel that doesn't have paint that is 4microns thick and you could scrape off your nail in the rear passenger quater panel... it was obvious when we bought the car that this panel had been resprayed as it was a slightly different colour ...
When I removed the rubber strip I found this:
What a bloody shocker ... This would have been an expensive repair (baked 2pack spray on it).... When I ran my hand over the repair it was up 'n' down :disappr:
Gee's what do you pay people for ... I'll have to find out who did this repair and send them my bill :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: 15minutes work with the air speedfile (including bogging it up) has near perfection. It's got a slight low where the bumper was (as I didn't remove the bumper until I noticed htis). I will finish this repair tomorrow .... Why can a backyarder fix something in 15minutes... yet the pro's have screwed it up over in the UK
Here's a good example... It's the only dent in the front passenger door (just a carpark battle scar from a 4WD's door).
These are what really confused me when I tried to fix the hail damage on my first car (a renault 12)... I just *couldn't* get it straight (though it looks ok) I could still feel under my hand. Of course it stood out like dogs balls after the car was painted.
All you need to do is tap the shiny metal bit down until it's level (or low) with a hammer and re-bog it and it'll come out perfect.
No car to drive tomorrow ... I got carried away and haven't found time to finish these repairs so I can drive tomorow:disappr:
Anothe 1.5hours... Upto 11hours now.
seeya,
Shane L.
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Another 2hours tonight ...13hours now.
I finished the rear quater panel
[imghttp://shanescitshed.com/cx2500/paintcx/reardone.jpg[/img]
The passenger door is done ...
The drivers rear door. I was wrong, the cow hadn't headbutted the door once .... More like 4 bloody times :nownow: (anyone for roast beef 
).
This actually took several goes as there was a few 'high' bits I needed to tap down to get it right.
I'll explain how I removed the picnic shelf from the bootlid too .... Talk about a bloody drama ... It's actually quite easy now I've done one. This time it took an hour ... Next time 10minutes ... I thought I'd smashed the bloody plastic retainers on it
She's going to look really flashto drive to work tomorrow :roflmao: :roflmao:
Smiffy/Cgat, any ideas how the rivets are installed on the new bootlid for the spoiler, or were they just screwed on with self tappers
seeya,
Shane L.
I finished the rear quater panel
[imghttp://shanescitshed.com/cx2500/paintcx/reardone.jpg[/img]
The passenger door is done ...
The drivers rear door. I was wrong, the cow hadn't headbutted the door once .... More like 4 bloody times :nownow:
(anyone for roast beef ).
This actually took several goes as there was a few 'high' bits I needed to tap down to get it right.
I'll explain how I removed the picnic shelf from the bootlid too .... Talk about a bloody drama ... It's actually quite easy now I've done one. This time it took an hour ... Next time 10minutes
... I thought I'd smashed the bloody plastic retainers on it She's going to look really flashto drive to work tomorrow :roflmao: :roflmao:
Smiffy/Cgat, any ideas how the rivets are installed on the new bootlid for the spoiler, or were they just screwed on with self tappers
seeya,
Shane L.
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I got one fitted to the silver one back in the days when I used to get the work done for me.
There was holes in the rear of the spoiler attached to angle brackets which were rivetted to the bootlid. The holes for the screws were then filled with a black goo like Sikaflex.
Alan S
There was holes in the rear of the spoiler attached to angle brackets which were rivetted to the bootlid. The holes for the screws were then filled with a black goo like Sikaflex.
Alan S
I take it you refer to the rivets on the bottom lip of the bootlid? They were definately not self tappers. They're like flat mushroom heads, that stand proud of the surrounding metal. The trim that sits on them, has white plastic inserts (which break readily) which you line up with those heads, and push the trim downwards to lock into position. I gather that new rivets and the plastic inserts are available. Cgat may have more info. Hope that helps,john sDoubleChevron said:Another 2hours tonight ...13hours now.
I finished the rear quater panel
The passenger door is done ...
The drivers rear door. I was wrong, the cow hadn't headbutted the door once .... More like 4 bloody times :nownow:
This actually took several goes as there was a few 'high' bits I needed to tap down to get it right.
I'll explain how I removed the picnic shelf from the bootlid too .... Talk about a bloody drama ... It's actually quite easy now I've done one. This time it took an hour ... Next time 10minutes
She's going to look really flashto drive to work tomorrow :roflmao: :roflmao:
Smiffy/Cgat, any ideas how the rivets are installed on the new bootlid for the spoiler, or were they just screwed on with self tappers
seeya,
Shane L.
smiffy1071 said:
Hi John,
yeah the plastic bits are ok, however as I'll be using an older boot lid the mushroom shaped rivets are not there. I may have to screw/bolt the plastic bits on. However the best bit about those mushroom shaped rivets is they require no hole in the sheetmetal (that will attract rust). I'd like to recreate this rivets that leave no scope for rust.... I doubt it'll be possible though ...
:disappr: seeya,
Shane L.
You want me to see if I can locate some for you? I could do it in the morning at work. The other possibility, is using double sided trim tape, like the stuff that holds the badges on. My only concern there, is would the heat you guys get affect the adhiesive? john sDoubleChevron said:Hi John,
yeah the plastic bits are ok, however as I'll be using an older boot lid the mushroom shaped rivets are not there. I may have to screw/bolt the plastic bits on. However the best bit about those mushroom shaped rivets is they require no hole in the sheetmetal (that will attract rust). I'd like to recreate this rivets that leave no scope for rust.... I doubt it'll be possible though ...
seeya,
Shane L.
smiffy1071 said:
Can you buy the rivets ??? If so they may well be here on local cars
I'll ask at the paint shop the next time I'm there.Double sided tape ... Would it be strong enough ?? I don't want my picnic shelf dissapearing the rear view mirror at speed
:roflmao: Do you know how the rivets work ?? Do they leave scope for rust if they are done by a backyarder ?? I'm assuming you drill a holes, poke the rivet through and mash the other end of the rivet flat from inside the bootlid.
seeya,
Shane L.
Here is the crunch. How these rivets are applied is a mystery, as I've never used them. I suppose they must be a seperate part, as I can't immagine them making up a whole new tool to press virtually identical body panels.
Other cars that use these rivets are the BX 16v, the AXGT, and if my memory serves, even late series 1 CX's, which have the smaller bootlid spoiler. If you can find one of those, the rivets are I think spaced the same as for the picnick table of the turbo!
It was a long time since I took my spare one off, so read between the lines a bit!
Other cars that use these rivets are the BX 16v, the AXGT, and if my memory serves, even late series 1 CX's, which have the smaller bootlid spoiler. If you can find one of those, the rivets are I think spaced the same as for the picnick table of the turbo!
It was a long time since I took my spare one off, so read between the lines a bit!
smiffy1071 said:
Thanks Smiffy,
I thought you may have used the rivets before on one of your cars
I'll ask around, and if all else fails, simply bolt the plastic retainers on, painting the holes with serveral coats of POR15 (after all this whole area is hidden.
I also now can chase up some perspex inserts for the picnic shelf too
(as I can copy the old ones).seeya,
Shane L.
Remember to take some piccies, as I need to swap the picknic table on my car when I get round to painting her. The rubber is cracked. Those perspex windows are a pain in the bum, they go cloudy and turn green! I'll have new ones made for mine. I'll see if my little brother does plastic bending at school like I used to :roflmao: john s
Those perspex windows are a pain in the bum, they go cloudy and turn green! I'll have new ones made for mine. I'll see if my little brother does plastic bending at school like I used to :roflmao: john sWow! I'm hoping to get a restoration car sometime soon and I've just learned a heap, just from reading this thread.
By the way, Shane - never mind the car - you have a great garage! Might have to come over one weekend with beer, just to play with your toys - er - power tools.
Moxo
By the way, Shane - never mind the car - you have a great garage! Might have to come over one weekend with beer, just to play with your toys - er - power tools.
Moxo
Believe me when I tell you, you need to be dedicated to the cause!
If you have a partner, you will need thick skin too, as they will be nagging at you to stop wasting your money and time, and go buy a newer car!
It's at that point that I reccomend a sudden spell of
deafness helps :roflmao::roflmao:
john s
If you have a partner, you will need thick skin too, as they will be nagging at you to stop wasting your money and time, and go buy a newer car!
It's at that point that I reccomend a sudden spell of
deafness helps :roflmao::roflmao:
john s
moxo said:
Actually I don't have that many tools.... I what I do have has taken me 15years to accumulate
(I have been collecting them since I was about 15years old ...). That's about the age I destroyed/lost every tool my father owned so I had to start getting my own :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: seeya,
Shane L.
Another 1.5hours last night .... 14.5hours now (SWMBO is starting to get really p!$$ed with me ).
I fixed the dents in the roof last night and whipped the grill out for prep for primer.
I'll post the piccies later.
seeya,
Shane L.
).I fixed the dents in the roof last night and whipped the grill out for prep for primer.
I'll post the piccies later.
seeya,
Shane L.
DoubleChevron said:Another 1.5hours last night .... 14.5hours now (SWMBO is starting to get really p!$$ed with me
Shane L.
See what I mean?smiffy1071 said:
john s
Removing the picnic shelf is quite easy ... Once you know how ...
The four holes you see in the spoiler here... If you dig the muck out of them you will find the heads to 4 philips head screws.
I found though they all unscrewed, I couldn't pull them out. Unfortunatly there just a long self tapper.
This means they will still hold the spoiler in place.
These screws combined with:
The plastic clips shown at the top edge of the bootlid here, hold the main portion of the spoiler down.
The spoiler is also retained by the bootlid hinges themselves:
So you need to unbolt the boot and have it flopping around while you attempt to get the spoiler off.
Once you unscrew all the screws and unbolt the boot lid, if your like me and couldn't extract the screws, you will need try pry the back edge of the spoiler up (gently so you don't smash the plastic retaining bits). In my case the screw popped out.
This is what the screws are screwed into.
I didn't notice at the time but I actually broke the tags that retain the front middle part of the spoiler
This shouldn't be an issue when it comes to time to re-mount the spoiler. I'll just hold this front edge down with double sided tape.
Now I had a bootlid the was retained by just the bootlid hinges.
This is where I got stuck... It appears the plastic incapsulates the boot hinges. It looks like the plastic that encapsulates the boot hinge (holding the spoiler) is a plastic slide ... That you will destroy attempting to remove ... smashing the plastic.
In desperation I finally decided I'd have to smash the plastic in order to remove the plastic clips. At this time I found it's actually 4 plastic clips that will come out without damage:
The plastic base you can (carefully) pry out is this:
The plastic boot brackets are retained by small rivets attached to the boot skin
The plastic windows just slide outof there cuttouts once the spoiler is off.
seeya,
Shane L.
The four holes you see in the spoiler here... If you dig the muck out of them you will find the heads to 4 philips head screws.
I found though they all unscrewed, I couldn't pull them out. Unfortunatly there just a long self tapper.
This means they will still hold the spoiler in place.
These screws combined with:
The plastic clips shown at the top edge of the bootlid here, hold the main portion of the spoiler down.
The spoiler is also retained by the bootlid hinges themselves:
So you need to unbolt the boot and have it flopping around while you attempt to get the spoiler off.
Once you unscrew all the screws and unbolt the boot lid, if your like me and couldn't extract the screws, you will need try pry the back edge of the spoiler up (gently so you don't smash the plastic retaining bits). In my case the screw popped out.
This is what the screws are screwed into.
I didn't notice at the time but I actually broke the tags that retain the front middle part of the spoiler
This shouldn't be an issue when it comes to time to re-mount the spoiler. I'll just hold this front edge down with double sided tape.
Now I had a bootlid the was retained by just the bootlid hinges.
This is where I got stuck... It appears the plastic incapsulates the boot hinges. It looks like the plastic that encapsulates the boot hinge (holding the spoiler) is a plastic slide ... That you will destroy attempting to remove ... smashing the plastic.
In desperation I finally decided I'd have to smash the plastic in order to remove the plastic clips. At this time I found it's actually 4 plastic clips that will come out without damage:
The plastic base you can (carefully) pry out is this:
The plastic boot brackets are retained by small rivets attached to the boot skin
The plastic windows just slide outof there cuttouts once the spoiler is off.
seeya,
Shane L.
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Alrighty,
thursday night I fixed the roof ...
There wasn't to many 'highs' that needed bashing down, so it only took a couple of trys to get this right.
All done ... Roof just needs a hit with the D/A sander before I hit it with the oneshot.
thursday night I fixed the roof ...
There wasn't to many 'highs' that needed bashing down, so it only took a couple of trys to get this right.
All done ... Roof just needs a hit with the D/A sander before I hit it with the oneshot.
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Last night I managed an hour tinkering in the shed. Upto 15.5hours now.
I removed the door handles and locks in readiness for spray the oneshot.
Removing the door handles is quite easy:
Remove the 3 bolts that retain the handle (allan key bolts)
Just slide you hand around the back of the doortrims, releasing (but hopefully not breaking) the plastic clips.
These two nuts retain the handle. Once you remove them the handle will just slide off (you can still use the doors just by poking a finger in the hole to activate the door lock).
The keylock just has a 'U' shaped bit of metal retaining it. The metal wire down to activate the lock just unsnaps out of the plastic clip
Look what I spotted when I removed the passenger front door lock & handle ....
Some @sshole has tried to break into the car in the past by hammering at the lock (most likely by hammering a screwdriver into the lock). I had to straighten the metal as you can see.
Also I found rust in the lowest corner of the back door ... a bloody rust bubble ... I thought this car was good for rust
Luckily it appears to be rusty from the outside, I hit it with the wirebrush and there is nothing there that needs to be fixed. It appears a stonechip has allowed water behind the paint (phew
).
Under the top door trims there is a type of glue (bugger it). It really tough, almost like a ceramic or epoxy type glue. It took 15minutes to scrape a tiny bit off even using a razor blade ... So I quickly gave up and hit it with the wire brush in the grinder, then feathered the edges with the D/A sander.
seeya,
Shane L.
I removed the door handles and locks in readiness for spray the oneshot.
Removing the door handles is quite easy:
Remove the 3 bolts that retain the handle (allan key bolts)
Just slide you hand around the back of the doortrims, releasing (but hopefully not breaking) the plastic clips.
These two nuts retain the handle. Once you remove them the handle will just slide off (you can still use the doors just by poking a finger in the hole to activate the door lock).
The keylock just has a 'U' shaped bit of metal retaining it. The metal wire down to activate the lock just unsnaps out of the plastic clip
Look what I spotted when I removed the passenger front door lock & handle ....
Some @sshole has tried to break into the car in the past by hammering at the lock (most likely by hammering a screwdriver into the lock). I had to straighten the metal as you can see.
Also I found rust in the lowest corner of the back door ... a bloody rust bubble ... I thought this car was good for rust
Luckily it appears to be rusty from the outside, I hit it with the wirebrush and there is nothing there that needs to be fixed. It appears a stonechip has allowed water behind the paint (phew
).
Under the top door trims there is a type of glue (bugger it). It really tough, almost like a ceramic or epoxy type glue. It took 15minutes to scrape a tiny bit off even using a razor blade ... So I quickly gave up and hit it with the wire brush in the grinder, then feathered the edges with the D/A sander.
seeya,
Shane L.
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The paint finish for the rear window trims, and the bootlid, is a satin finish. Not gloss, or matt. Hope that is available near you, john s