Quick paint job anyone ????

Thanks Adam,

I've always avoided hammerite, and you have just given me another reason to avoid it.

Ok another hour & half work (6.0hours now). I repaired the strips I'd dropped by wires brushing them back to bare metal and recoating.

dentmark.jpg


I could feel these dents even though I couldn't see them in the light :confused: Remembering if you can feel anything it'll always stand out like dogs balls with shiny new paint .......... I mark dents with a texta like this so I don't forget them. The crosses mean I think it's high, not low.

markdent2.jpg


Not sure about this, but there's something wrong there. I sanded all these marks back with the angle grinder fitted with it's paint stripping tool.

A smear of filler over the areas ... This sander is bloody awesome ... All these dents took less than 1hour including re-painting the strips and waiting for the bog to set. The lowest series of dents/marks required a second smear of filler after tappy a couple of high bits of metal down.

bogsanded.jpg


Finally a coat of primer to cover the bare steal.

paintedbog.jpg


Hey Gerry this primer seems really good, it took some wire brushing back off the strips and applies really well. Possibly a quick coat of this on your 2cv panels would surfice (it is an etch primer). It also states it safe to leave panels in just this for upto 3months before top coating. Sounds ideal for both you and me.


primer.jpg


seeya,
Shane L.
 
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Good on you Shane!
It looks like you're really getting stuck in there now. You've inspired me to give my CX a good wash & polish and see how good the paint job is after being driven almost every day since I got it in varying conditions including Snow and blizzards to humid 38 degree scorching sun and torrential rain.
There's a few stone chips and tar spots but it'll do for now until I can get a small amount of touch up paint. There is no rust evident only some bubbling smaller than a 5c piece on one of the rear doors and the 1/4 panel. The worst paint damage is the section behind the rear door on both sides (It sticks out so paint has abraded off but is not rusting into the metal yet).

I saw 2 C5's and 2 Xsaras driving to Ballina and back this morning. One of the C5's drove into the Aldi carpark just as I was walking back to my car and they spotted the CX. They got out and said "I bet it's still going well "
I said yes....Well it is going strong, finally after almost a year it is a reliable and safe vehicle to drive and I haven't spent a fortune to get it that way:party:
However, there is a pretty big list of things I'd like to do including getting the interior fan working again and perhaps fitting the airconditioning up. I'd love to reupholster the interior starting with the door trims but that will come later.
Back to you Shane:doh: I almost forgot it was your thread for a minute!!
Andy:cheers:
 
Another 1.5hours this evening ... were upto 7.5hours now.

She'll pretty much ready for the bonnet and front guards to be hit one a few heavy coats of oneshot.

There's not much to be done of the front guards... Just a few door dings from carparks

frontguard.jpg


Removing the badges without damage is quite easy if you use a cheap putty knife

badgeremoval.jpg


Just about ready for oneshot upfront

frontready.jpg


Hopefully I'll get paint on it tomorrow.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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Hi Shane,
Did you apply any rust converter or oxidisation inhibitor before applying the primer?
Are you taking the bonnet back to metal?
 
Hi Gerry,

No not back to bare metal, only to sound paint. This is quite easy as the paint is only about 4micron thick on the whole car (no evidence of anything other than original, very thin paint sofar).

The bare metal I haven't really worried about deoxodadine on, as it's been painted within seconds of it being sanded with a harsh high speed sander (ie: the air speed file sander)... There is no bare metal on the car (remembering I need to still be able to drive it !!).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Hi Guys,

another 2.0hours ... Upto 8hours now.

I sanded any stone chip that was to metal back to bare metal with the D/A sander and used deoxidine on them (you can see the dots of rust get immediatly de-activated by this stuff ... Great product).

I however need to remove the sill trims before I can put some paint back on the front ...:disappr: I don't want to do this as:

--I'll most likely break them
--I get really frustrated and most likely break all the attachment points off
--Big bloody scarey rust holes the *must* be fixed for the integrity of the car may be behind them :eek: :eek: :eek:

sillnuts.jpg


The sill trims appear to be held on by these plastic lugs :eek:

I was stunned to find I could undo all of them with my fingers .... Just by pressing hard on them...

rmvsillnuts.jpg


The couple that I couldn't get a grip on, I just used an allan keys like this to remove.

The trims are quite flexible to my surprise and came straigt off.... One of the trims was FULL of crap & dirt...

trimoff.jpg


So the million dollar question ... Are the sills ok :eek: :eek:

perfectsill.jpg


Bloody amazing ... The sill are pefect, not even surface rust, just shiny (very dirty) factory paint :dance: :dance: :dance: :jiggy:

Back to work... Mask it up *really* well... Seriously you'll be surprised how far the paint will travel. It's far easier to spend an extra 15minutes here, than several hours (if not more) later trying to remove overspray (don't ask :disappr: ).

maskup.jpg


Finally the easy bit ... Several nice heavy coats of oneshot... Make sure you put several big runs in there (I always do :doh: ) Runs give you good exercise when it's time to run the spray putty back.

painted.jpg


Finally it's on with the guidecoat ... Only the little pressure pack of black paint ran out .... I only had yellow and red, not wanting to use red as it was a similar colour to the car ... I tried yellow. It was to bloody invisable, so I ended up with a nice multi-colour guide coat of black, yellow and red :rolleyes:

guidecoat.jpg


and remove the masking so I can drive to work tomorrow :

I think that enough for today, I better do some work around the house before I get into trouble :clown:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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You can use less primer by "stepping in" your spot repairs. This is a large splodge first, then a smaller spot, then the all over coats. Tinting your primer to match adds opacity to the topcoat or you can alternate tints (light and dark) to know how the sanding's going.

Really work hard at avoiding excess (comparative) buildup in corners and crevices after sanding. As the acrylic paint cures, it develops massive tension in such areas due to the extra thickness. So, then it cracks imperceptibly, typically through the entire film back to metal and rust creeps in. Not so good.

Waiting for the "before and after" shots of the hands when it gets to wetsanding ;) At least they'll be soft as...

Cheers, Adam.
 
Hi Adam,

yeah I feathered all edges with the D/A sander, I'll wetsand the whole car just prior to painting ... this will give the front huge curing time (planned it this way of course :rolleyes: ).

Don't worry she was given several coats of oneshot with a putty gun (not heavy blotchy coats with a normal gun). I'll be *very* surprised if it lifts and rusts like you suggest. I've painted 5cars in this way with Dulon Oneshot and have nothing but incredible results. The original car (my CX2400) is starting to crowsfeet slightly on the roof (sap & birdshit). That's over 10years old and it's NEVER been garaged, used everyday and never cleaned or polished .... ever ... (well it was kept nice & cleaned and polished for about 6months until @ssholes started crashing into it in carparks :mad: :disappr: I lost incentive to keep it clean after that).

Really the acrylic is an exceptionally good paint, it just doesn't last for sh!t unless you keep it clean, away from sap and birdsh!t.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
--I'll most likely break them
--I get really frustrated and most likely break all the attachment points off
--Big bloody scarey rust holes the *must* be fixed for the integrity of the car may be behind them :eek: :eek: :eek:

sillnuts.jpg


The sill trims appear to be held on by these plastic lugs :eek:

I was stunned to find I could undo all of them with my fingers .... Just by pressing hard on them...

rmvsillnuts.jpg


The couple that I couldn't get a grip on, I just used an allan keys like this to remove.

The trims are quite flexible to my surprise and came straigt off.... One of the trims was FULL of crap & dirt...

seeya,
Shane L.
Hi Shane, you may remember some time ago, I said to Archrival how easy they were to remove!!! The good news was if you broke one, I have 2 full sets spare, and as you will know, they weigh almost nothing so I could bring them with me if needed. Keep up the good work, it's coming together nicely!
john s
 
Hi, it's looking good !

If you're thinking to have it later repainted with 2k paint do a little research if the materials you're using now are compatible with 2k paint. If they aren't you're in for a bad surprise, bubbling, peeling, stuff that makes you want to cut your veins...

DoubleChevron said:
yeah I haven't decided if I'll use the string trick, or pop the screen out. I've probably had 1/2dozen screen out of CX's, and broken 2 of them ... Not a good ... So I average breaking 1 in 3 ....:eek: If I had lots of patience I'd probably get them all out without breakage :nownow:

If the CX windscreen is held only by the rubber seal (like the GS one) you can use a funny trick: 5 cm long nails. From inside, you lift the seal and secure nail's head on the metal lip that's holding the seal. Then you move 3 cm and add another nail, and another, and another... until you've got the upper half of the windscreen surrounded by nails. Then it just pushes out with one hand. I've done this quite a few times on GS without problems.
Before you push it out, glue the nails together with masking tape otherwise you'll have them all over the dashboard, seats,... once the windsreen comes out.
 
addo said:
You can use less primer by "stepping in" your spot repairs. This is a large splodge first, then a smaller spot, then the all over coats. Tinting your primer to match adds opacity to the topcoat or you can alternate tints (light and dark) to know how the sanding's going.

Really work hard at avoiding excess (comparative) buildup in corners and crevices after sanding. As the acrylic paint cures, it develops massive tension in such areas due to the extra thickness. So, then it cracks imperceptibly, typically through the entire film back to metal and rust creeps in. Not so good.

Waiting for the "before and after" shots of the hands when it gets to wetsanding ;) At least they'll be soft as...

Cheers, Adam.

I think I just realised why you want different coloured primers etc.......... The reason I have used the guide coat is you sand the guidecoat with about 600 wet 'n' dry, using lots of water and big circles until you have sanded all traced of the guide coat off. Once you have sanded the guide coat off (ie: can't see it anywhere) STOP That area is now level and near enough to perfect ready for top coat. If you sand through to the metal in any places before you manage to sand the guide coat off (big circles with the sanding block remember) your preperation was no good .... Go back to step one and do preparation correctly.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Another 1.5hours ... upto 9.5hours now.

I peeled off all the center door trims (it'll probably get more dents over the next few weeks without these than it has in the last 21years with them in place :mad: :nownow: :rolleyes: ). It took quite a bit of time with a razor blade to remove the double sided tape from the doors. Removed the rear sill trims and marked the dents on the doors.

The only panel on the car that has been resprayed and isn't original factory paint is the rear left quarter panel... Unfortunatly I have now found the repair is cr@p. I don't know how a bodyshop can do such a dodgy job (no doubt an insurance job very early in the cars life). :disappr: I'm glad the rest of the car is how it's left the factory if this is going to be the repair standard.

Also I got the black gutter trims off without damage by rolling them up and off the gutter. Starting and the windscreen and slowly working my way back. More irreplacable trim removed without damage :dance: :dance: :dance: :jiggy: :jiggy:

time for bed.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
JohnW said:
People are rude when close up but our R8 was brushed in about 1976 and again in 1998. We used Solver signwriter's enamel (not acrylic but oil-based) and it cost $87 including one good quality brush. It was then the best quality (non-fade) red brushable paint on the market.Cheers

OMG John,

I have just realised, I must have chatted to you as a young lad somewhere in WA, as I still tell mates the story of an R8 that was painted with signwriter paint with a brush!

I thought it looked awesome, it must have been just after the second coat. I wonder if it could be applied with a spray gun.. hmmm.

It is a small world.

I dunno why I didn't click from your avitar, I guess it looks so shiney! how does she polish up these days?

David.
 
vivid said:
OMG John,

I have just realised, I must have chatted to you as a young lad somewhere in WA, as I still tell mates the story of an R8 that was painted with signwriter paint with a brush!

I thought it looked awesome, it must have been just after the second coat. I wonder if it could be applied with a spray gun.. hmmm.

It is a small world.

I dunno why I didn't click from your avitar, I guess it looks so shiney! how does she polish up these days?

David.

What a small world. I presume it was at a classic car day at Whiteman Park (I took the R8 about 6-8 years back, before we bought the 16TS) or a French Car Day. Well the paint is fine, hardly faded at all. It isn't the most opaque but it is basically in good condition. Polish? I did do that once, must have been about 5 years back.

This year we will have the car's second 21st birthday party. We had the first in Adelaide in about 1995/6 before moving to Perth. This may be something of a record!

The car lives under an expensive car cover (felt inside, PVC outside) and whilst this isn't ideal, in Perth's climate it is reasonable.

Now if I could spare the money and had the time, better paint would be desirable. But in the meantime, providing no-one looks closely...... And it is protected at least.

Cheers

John
 
DoubleChevron said:
Another 1.5hours ... upto 9.5hours now.

I peeled off all the center door trims (it'll probably get more dents over the next few weeks without these than it has in the last 21years with them in place :mad: :nownow: :rolleyes: ). It took quite a bit of time with a razor blade to remove the double sided tape from the doors. Removed the rear sill trims and marked the dents on the doors.

The only panel on the car that has been resprayed and isn't original factory paint is the rear left quarter panel... Unfortunatly I have now found the repair is cr@p. I don't know how a bodyshop can do such a dodgy job (no doubt an insurance job very early in the cars life). :disappr: I'm glad the rest of the car is how it's left the factory if this is going to be the repair standard.

Also I got the black gutter trims off without damage by rolling them up and off the gutter. Starting and the windscreen and slowly working my way back. More irreplacable trim removed without damage :dance: :dance: :dance: :jiggy: :jiggy:

time for bed.

seeya,
Shane L.

Very impressive Shane. Keep it up and thanks for sharing the story.

Cheers
 
DoubleChevron said:
(it'll probably get more dents over the next few weeks without these than it has in the last 21years Also I got the black gutter trims off without damage by rolling them up and off the gutter. Starting and the windscreen and slowly working my way back. More irreplacable trim removed without damage :dance: :dance: :dance: :jiggy: :jiggy:

time for bed.

seeya,
Shane L.
21 years? your car was only first used on jan 21 1986!!! It's still on the UK government database would you believe!

http://www.vehiclelicence.gov.uk/EvlPortalApp/application;JSESSIONID_EvlPortalApp=DeimhWZeegWjvGykdYQXyx4NThGahFfde0Xpvk1PplMtxqvqPH2p!-405207069!-301959756?pageid=Vehicle+Enquiry&portletid=VehicleEnquiry&portletns=VehicleEnquiry_en&wfevent=link.next

And as for the gutter trim, I know where to get brand new black ones right now, if you ever needed them.
john s
 
I'll be buggered:

The enquiry is complete

The vehicle details for C393 NAN are:

Date of Liability 01 01 1997
Date of First Registration 22 01 1986
Date of Last V5 Issue 24 07 1996
Year of Manufacture 1986
Cylinder Capacity (cc) 2500CC
CO2 Emissions Not Available
Fuel Type Petrol
Export Marker Export
Vehicle Status Unlicensed
Vehicle Colour RED
Vehicle Excise Duty Rate for vehicle
6 Months Rate £93.50
12 Months Rate £170.00
 
I can't remember it's rego. It's good the way you can look up details like that (the links will not work as they expire quite quickly though).

seeya.
Shane L.
 
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