Quick paint job anyone ????

If you use a decent self etching primer you should stand some lind of chance with it, after all, that's supposed to be the kinds of things self etching is made for and you can also get it in black but problem then is, which is primer and which is top coat????:cry: :cry:


Alan S
 
DoubleChevron said:
Thanks Guys,

Smiffy, the reason the reason 2pack is so dangerous is not only does a not get filtered by a charcoal mask, it also gets obsorbed by the skin. You basically need a space suit against it :eek: :eek: Dunno about you but I intend to be around to watch my kids grow up.

seeya,
Shane L.
I have a healthy desire for life, don't you worry!
This isn't a charcoal filter, you actually breathe from the compressor.
There is a soft foam seal around the visor, and the positive air pressure stops the outside polluted air getting in. Agreed about avoiding skin contact though! I'll be getting some disposable overalls from the paint suppliers.
john s
 
Bloody family ... :mad:

I went to use my angle grinder with the wire brush in it yesterday ... Not there :confused: I remember by brother said he borrowed 'cos there was two of them there ... Bog the repairs just now go to grab the speed file .... Where the bloody hell has that gone :confused: I've got two of them. I've spent literally the last 1/2dozen free weekends cleaning the shed and putting everything where I can find it. Looks like it's been greatly appreciated by the family 'cos now they can find stuff easily :nownow:

Why both identical speed files are gone is beyond me (wouldn't you just take one ??). They have definatly been 'borrowed' though 'cos all the sandpaper for them is gone too :mad: Best bit is the sh!thead is away. Maybe I'll go over and see how easy his shed is to break into and 'borrow' them back :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao: betcha there's no sandpaper left though (it's about 70cents a sheet so adds up quickly).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I didn't mean to run off acrylic paints. Nitro is actually even better for gloss than TPA (as evidenced by RR's choice of it as a finish for so many years) but it doesn't last for squat. Just that initial cure time with acrylic is the worry; for a few weeks everything from hard water through to guano makes a visible mark. A really good clear/base system in 2K is hard to beat IMO - as new prestige cars so nicely demonstrate. BTW, Dulon used to do a Premium clearcoat (maybe still offer?) that was quite affordable and appreciably nicer than the regular one.

At least as the substrate is relatively sound 2K, the solvents won't migrate inwards - meaning initial cure won't be too bad. You'll need bugger-all primer, save for spot repairs and a light coat all over.

Cheers, Adam.
 
:cool: :tongue: [/quote]
I'm concerned his car has never been wet though so maybe it will lift :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.[/quote]

:rolleyes: been used all year round, driven to the NEC classic car show in November twice; the last time in torrential rain for 2 hours :tongue:
and tested over 160, leave you to guess kph or not? :cool:
 
Beautiful Citroen

G'day Double Chevron,
Just writing to let you know how nice your car is even without the painting done.Stunning looking car! My French bodied 403 is due to be painted,so I will be keeping a keen eye on your progress.

Good luck with it all,
Greg
 
mork63ukCGAT said:
I'm concerned his car has never been wet though so maybe it will lift :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.[/quote]

:rolleyes: been used all year round, driven to the NEC classic car show in November twice; the last time in torrential rain for 2 hours :tongue:
and tested over 160, leave you to guess kph or not? :cool:[/QUOTE]
Now now, You're just showing off now! :nownow: Nice to see you on here at long last! As you may gather, your car is known here already!:D
john s
 
smiffy1071 said:
I'm concerned his car has never been wet though so maybe it will lift :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.

:rolleyes: been used all year round, driven to the NEC classic car show in November twice; the last time in torrential rain for 2 hours :tongue:
and tested over 160, leave you to guess kph or not? :cool:

Now now, You're just showing off now! :nownow: Nice to see you on here at long last! As you may gather, your car is known here already!:D
john s

Yeah,

there's nothing like a bit of friendly sh!t stiring to bring poeple out of the woodwork :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.
 
gmrobins said:
G'day Double Chevron,
Just writing to let you know how nice your car is even without the painting done.Stunning looking car! My French bodied 403 is due to be painted,so I will be keeping a keen eye on your progress.

Good luck with it all,
Greg

Thanks Greg,

403 ute... It's good to see poeple keeping the oldies upto scratch. I'd love to get my hands on the 203 Ute that usually turns upto the French car day (where's the smiley for drooling).

You'll have to post some piccies of the ute when she gets back from the paint shop.

seeya,
Shane L.
PS: My old CX looks nowhere near as tidy in the flesh as it does in piccies, the piccies certainy hide how sad the paint really is getting.
 
DoubleChevron said:
seeya,
Shane L.
PS: My old CX looks nowhere near as tidy in the flesh as it does in piccies, the piccies certainy hide how sad the paint really is getting.
I have to admit, I was very surprised to see the close up condition of your car shane, You're right, it does look better from a distance. I think though that if you get the paint right now, it should last a very long time.
Much the same as I want to do with my car. Of course, as I'm here in England, I have more reason to do it right, as we still haven't found a replacement for road salt in cold weather yet. It may take me longer to get the car on the road, but it will be worth it! While you have the car stripped down ....
CHECK THE LOWER WINSCREEN FRAME mine is buggered, and I know where to get new sections, while stocks last
john s
 
Hi Smiffy,

There is no rust in the windscreen frame that I've found (I've had the screen out before). the only rust I've found in the whole car given the extensive work I've done on it is:

--Bootlid (which was obvious when the car was purchased 10years ago). It's got no worse in the last 10years.
--Bonnet looked a about 6 matchead sized dots under the paint. (it was like this when purchased and has got no worse in the last 10years)
--Air cleaner of all the strange things ... I have need to fix that air cleaner :confused:
--There is one small hole under each headlight ... I donno what the hell this means, or why they are there, but they were there when we purchased the car, and haven't got any worse in the last 10years.

As for how bad the car looks up close. Unless you live in Australia, you couldn't understand how incredibly destructive the sun is here.

Within months of the car hitting our shores the following happened:
--rusting ceased, even the existing rust hasn't got any worse in the last 10years
--The dash cracked
--The roof lining dropped
--The paint has very slowly deteriated to the point where the clear coat is lifting.

The mid 90's cars out here have paint that looks the same as my car on the bonnet and roof... These cars are apparantly "Made for Australian Conditions", whatever that means :rolleyes:

The car will look as good as new with just a simple coat of paint :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
The stainless trims are painted mat black. Hopefully someone will have a suggestion on how to paint these so they stay black (and the paint doesn't just scratch off again).

What I did to a white CX 2400 I had a long time (15 years) ago was to get rid of all the black paint off the rear quarter window surrounds, make up some wire brackets to support the all the stainless trim so they could be powder coated and get them coated with a black satin finish. I did all the sill trims and bumpers as well. It's not glossy, is bullet proof and when I saw the car a few years ago festering under a tree out in the bush, still looked pretty good - just a little faded. The car looked a million dollars when I had it in fresh 2 pack white with satin black bumpers and trim....

Ahhh, young and foolish with lots of time and a high disposable income... :)

Cheers,

Chris
 
blahblah said:
What I did to a white CX 2400 I had a long time (15 years) ago was to get rid of all the black paint off the rear quarter window surrounds, make up some wire brackets to support the all the stainless trim so they could be powder coated and get them coated with a black satin finish. I did all the sill trims and bumpers as well. It's not glossy, is bullet proof and when I saw the car a few years ago festering under a tree out in the bush, still looked pretty good - just a little faded. The car looked a million dollars when I had it in fresh 2 pack white with satin black bumpers and trim....

Ahhh, young and foolish with lots of time and a high disposable income... :)

Cheers,

Chris

Hi Chris,

this one has the 'blackout' treatment from the factory. The trim around the rear window willnot be a problem. It has badly peeling matt black tape over dull metal (so it's not shiny stainless == easy to paint). However for the upper door trim bit, they simply painted the stainless trim with black paint .... Which hasn't lasted very well... However the very shiny stainless undereath will be still perfect :rolleyes:

The only thing I haven't left original is the bumpers. They fade off and look terrible so have been painted.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Mark me down for another 1.5hours... Just under 3hours and I haven't even lifted a peice of sandpaper yet.

I wire brushed the back with the angle grinder enlarging the holes quite a bit.

wbrushbehind.jpg


This opened up the holes quite a bit.... Can you believe those little dots, about the size of match heads have turned into this ??? That's rust for you :mad: :roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

biggerholes.jpg


So I welded up the holes ...

weldedholes.jpg


I'm scratching my head wondering how I'll treat the metal after it's fixed. You see inside the seam will be unpainted/untreated as anything I put there at this point will either burn off or catch fire :eek: I think I'll fill this area with oil/grease once the areas repaired.

newmetal.jpg


And finally some new metal for the back...

Tomorrow ... Hopefully I'll find time to stich the new peice of metal in & bog it over and cover with some weatherproof paint ready for later prep & painting.

seeya,
Shane L.
There is available in a 500ml tin a Zinc rich primer that can be welded it can be applied with a brush . In Victoria I know Blackwoods stock it.
 
Thanks Mark,

I'll look into finding some of the primer. I will simply spray these areas with Lanoguard (lanolin) when the car is finished. This stuff appears to come out way above all other rust preventitives in classic car mags.

I was at the local auto paint store and asked about painting the stainless bright trim. They didn't have any hammerite smooth (infact had never heard of it). They suggested using the only etch primer on there shelves that stated it could be used with stainless. I already have some flat black in the shed that I used on CX sills years back.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Thanks Mark,

I'll look into finding some of the primer. I will simply spray these areas with Lanoguard (lanolin) when the car is finished. This stuff appears to come out way above all other rust preventitives in classic car mags.

I was at the local auto paint store and asked about painting the stainless bright trim. They didn't have any hammerite smooth (infact had never heard of it). They suggested using the only etch primer on there shelves that stated it could be used with stainless. I already have some flat black in the shed that I used on CX sills years back.

seeya,
Shane L.

People are rude when close up but our R8 was brushed in about 1976 and again in 1998. We used Solver signwriter's enamel (not acrylic but oil-based) and it cost $87 including one good quality brush. It was then the best quality (non-fade) red brushable paint on the market.

Now at one level this is not good but let me tell you that from the other side of the road it looks excellent. And she's always been a working girl not a show pony. Net result is good protection, good appearance (5 metres plus of course) and enough money to do other things..... Like buying CX Citroens from an earlier contributor to this thread!

I reckon it would not work on a CX though as the panels are so much larger, smoother and more curvaceous on a CX than an R8.

Cheers
 
Upto about 4.5hours now.

I've gotta thank Alan S. He convinced I *really needed* one of these speedfiles.... Worth it's bloody weight in gold IMO. Would anyone believe 2minutes to get this repair *perfect*.... First time ever I've got bog sanded level the first time with no lows/highs/imperfections... Bloody stunned (though it was a fluke I guess there being no lows requiring another smear of filler).

sander.jpg


Wish I'd had one of these sanders year ago !!!

Onto the strips I've been talking about. I removed the with my trusty old pocketknife

rmvstrip.jpg


These are retained differently to the earlier CX's. There is a rivet like protrusion from the door skin, this is much better than the hole drilled into the doorskin on earlier cars (that cause rust).

strippins.jpg


The strips really don't look great ...

strip1.jpg


On Neils (excellent I must add) advice I simply carefully wirebrushed them. I found the brush in the grinder best as it allows full control of the strip

wirebrushstrip.jpg


This worked amazingly well with no damage

strip2.jpg


To paint the strips I just tap a couple of nails into one of the benches in the shed

paintstrip.jpg


The primer has a huge amount of content for pressure pack paint and flowed really well onto the surface without leaving 'dots' or any crap behind. I really do recommend this primer (it'll etch to just about anything including brass and lead if the packaging is to be believed)

paintstrip2.jpg


Infact the strips came up so well, I think I'll redo them tomorrow before I topcoat them (don't ask ..... Ok, when I rolled up the air hose I knocked them all onto the concrete before the paint had set :mad: :doh: :doh: :doh: :censored: ).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Last edited:
Hi Smiffy,

we have always had hammerite out here ... onlly it's the sort that leaves a very textrured finished. If most poeple are like me, if they see hammerite on a car they run a mile .... You see it hides all sorts of major problems, rust, dents, etc...... A car with hammerite on it's sills you immediatly assume has badly bogged over rusty sills :disappr:

The paintshop I use has been in business for as long as I can recall, and *only* does autopaints ... nothing else. I figured if they not only didn't have it, but hadn't heard of the 'hammerite smooth' I probably wouldn't find it anywhere. (I'll probably see it at the local supermarket tomorroe now :roflmao: :roflmao: ).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
A panelbeater friend once told me that there is a component in regular Hammerite, that interferes with 2K paints. Even the dust could pose problems, he opined, and wouldn't have the stuff anywhere near his workshop, or mechanically strip it.

You could probably use anti silicone reducer but that's less common and a one-way street (once it's used in one coat you have to keep using it).

Cheers, Adam.
 
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