They normally have the release pressure stamped on them, 4psi or 28kpa.
Should be just a standard non-resistor 12V coil?
Hotrodelectric should confirm this?
Last edited:
My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari
- Thread starter bleudanube
- Start date
Should be just a standard non-resistor 12V coil?
Hotrodelectric should confirm this?
You've said it's way down on power and limited to Ist gear so I doubt it's a valve issue unless it's more than one cylinder affected. It should still sail along on only 3.
If it still doesn't run well once it cools, wind it over with the coil wire pulled, you'll easy tell if there's a lazy cylinder or not, "rrr rrr rrr ziiip", "rrr rrr rrr ziiip". "Rrr ziiip ziiip ziiip" and you're in trouble.
I still think primary ignition circuit problem, points/coil/condensor. If you didn't replace the points also check carefully for a fracture inside its wire's insulation.
Water/dirt in the main jet will kill the power but wont cause a miss at idle.
One more thing, but I don't think it applies to your car, a faulty tacho can play havoc with the ignition system too.
If it still doesn't run well once it cools, wind it over with the coil wire pulled, you'll easy tell if there's a lazy cylinder or not, "rrr rrr rrr ziiip", "rrr rrr rrr ziiip". "Rrr ziiip ziiip ziiip" and you're in trouble.
I still think primary ignition circuit problem, points/coil/condensor. If you didn't replace the points also check carefully for a fracture inside its wire's insulation.
Water/dirt in the main jet will kill the power but wont cause a miss at idle.
One more thing, but I don't think it applies to your car, a faulty tacho can play havoc with the ignition system too.
Ok everyone - it’s crunch time. Booked in for roadworthy Monday… another quick test drive / shake down and bugger: problems!
Drove about 5 klm when the engine started coughing, just got off the main road… lucky I was only a few 100m from home.
What I know is:
- should have enough fuel as I just put 30L in
- there is fuel at the carbie, the carbie filter is clean
- new spark plug leads, distributor cap and finger
- engine seemed to be quite hot, it did overflow a little after stopping
- haven’t pulled the spark plugs yet as I didn’t have any tools with me(idiot me… far to cocky, eh)
- barely runs, has little power… just hobbled home in first gear…
Just letting her cool down now, have a beer and will tackle her tomorrow again. So, anyone any ideas from the video “coughing”? Spark or fuel? Can’t really be anything else? Valve adjustment issue?
that sounds really wrong ... ignition timing or cam timing would be my guess (infact if it was anyone else I'd suggest the firing order was wrong
).
I must admit I haven't followed every aspect of the build but seem to recall the engine was rebuilt?that sounds really wrong ... ignition timing or cam timing would be my guess (infact if it was anyone else I'd suggest the firing order was wrong
Based on that I discounted cam/timing gear failure. Ignition timing really could only change if the dissy was loose and as it was performing well beforehand it can't be the firing order.
I'd be looking at what I haven't done, and from what Sven had said it sounds like the entire primary ignition system may be as old as the car?
When I got mine someone had very roughly fitted a transistorised ignition that included a new coil, ballast resistor, plugs and leads and at random it would get really hard to start and run like a hairy goat, much like in Sven's video.
I ended up retaining the transistorised ignition system but mounted it correctly, shortened and routed all the wiring properly, ensuring good earthing etc, hasn't missed a beat since. Although I didn't specifically isolate the cause I'm strongly leaning to it being a poor earth in my case.
That video really sounds like it is randomly firing when it shouldn't, it's not a regular beat.
I second the Condenser. Had a 40 yo one fail on my motorbike recently. Started and ran fine for about 2 minutes, then the max speed relatively quickly progressed to below idle. Fortunately had another cylinder bank to get home. In my case, fine again when cold.
Well, I found the issue…. Luckily…
A broken stud on number 4 exhaust valve shaft! Now… I might have to remove the whole head unless I can get it out somehow - might buy one of those stud extractor tools.
Am I ok to “just” undo all the headbolts so I get the lower carrier out try to remove the stud, if successful replace it and then retighten to specs? Or do I need a need a new head gasket?
I will drain the oil to ensure any water leakage is removed.
Also: the plugs are way too rich… now that might be from cranking and hobbling home, but it raises a question I had anyway: how do you lean out the Weber carbie as it hasn’t got any mixture screw? Jet changes?
A broken stud on number 4 exhaust valve shaft! Now… I might have to remove the whole head unless I can get it out somehow - might buy one of those stud extractor tools.
Am I ok to “just” undo all the headbolts so I get the lower carrier out try to remove the stud, if successful replace it and then retighten to specs? Or do I need a need a new head gasket?
I will drain the oil to ensure any water leakage is removed.
Also: the plugs are way too rich… now that might be from cranking and hobbling home, but it raises a question I had anyway: how do you lean out the Weber carbie as it hasn’t got any mixture screw? Jet changes?
Don't undo any more.
To remove the stud, cut a small hole in a piece off canvas. Push it over the broken stud.
Cover everything else up, specially glass, with sheets and tarps.
Clean any oil off the stud, then drop a 10mm nut over the stud, so that a few mm of stud are protruding above the nut.
With your MIG weld the tip of the stud to the nut....... let it cool slowly, but completely.
Unscrew the stud.
If you don't have enough stud protruding, you can drill a hole in a bit of 3mm steel, and weld through the hole.
I have removed studs that have broken off flush with aluminium heads, by this method.
Cover everything else up, specially glass, with sheets and tarps.
Clean any oil off the stud, then drop a 10mm nut over the stud, so that a few mm of stud are protruding above the nut.
With your MIG weld the tip of the stud to the nut....... let it cool slowly, but completely.
Unscrew the stud.
If you don't have enough stud protruding, you can drill a hole in a bit of 3mm steel, and weld through the hole.
I have removed studs that have broken off flush with aluminium heads, by this method.
I'll not sure that the broken stud is your only problem.
A Dee engine running on 3 good cylinders should be almost normal to drive.
The black plugs show very rich running.
A basic test I do when finding that, is to do a start from fully cold, without choke it should not start.
Check idle mixture, float level, and needle&seat.
Although the black could be from non combustion from ignition problems, as outlined above.
A Dee engine running on 3 good cylinders should be almost normal to drive.
The black plugs show very rich running.
A basic test I do when finding that, is to do a start from fully cold, without choke it should not start.
Check idle mixture, float level, and needle&seat.
Although the black could be from non combustion from ignition problems, as outlined above.
Thanks Bob,
A few ideas there that will hopefully help me get the broken bolts out of the thermostat housing on the CX.
Cheers, Ken
A few ideas there that will hopefully help me get the broken bolts out of the thermostat housing on the CX.
Cheers, Ken
As Buttercup said 1 cylinder down from the broken stud is not going to have you struggling in 1st gear.
Yah- just a standard coil, 12V. You just have to ensure your resistor is still usable.
I will buy a new coil to be sure …. For the capacitor on the Ducellier distributor: are they available off the shelf or do they have some specific values? Might as well change it as well…
The main thing with the condensor is that it physically fits. Regardless of the vehicle it is in it's doing exactly the same job. As long as it is for a 12V system any ignition condenser will work fine. Just take the old one with you and find one that will physically fit.
I used to think that but my d had a fuel starvation issue which created quite a violent reaction
Certainly fuel issues can cause severe changes in power, with resultant kangaroo hopping, and unpleasant forces on the occupants, but it's usually* all cylinders at once, over several revs of the engine.
The problem here, appears much more brief and on individual cylinders.
* If you have a badly fouled plug, or a bad lead, a fuel lean-ness will cause individual cylinder miss.
In my opinion, the circumstances here tend to indicate a spark problem.
The problem here, appears much more brief and on individual cylinders.
* If you have a badly fouled plug, or a bad lead, a fuel lean-ness will cause individual cylinder miss.
In my opinion, the circumstances here tend to indicate a spark problem.
Yes my DS was undriveable due to a blocked fuel filter, like Sven it was a first gear struggle to get home. Unlike Sven's mine would idle perfectly though
I have gone through this from time to time. Maybe disconnect the condensor wire and install the new condensor at the coil. Connect the terminal on the negative side of the coil (where the wire goes to the distributor) and earth the condensor and see if there is an improvement.
Am I on the right track here, John
Of course you can mount it anywhere as long as the condensor body has a good earth. I looked back through Sven's photos and the one on his distributor looks as if it would be as old as the car. I'd just replace it, it's easy to get at, they're inexpensive and he'll find one easy enough at Supercheap or some such that will do the job.
Agreed