My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

Sven,

Find someone that has a SM nearby (jonf maybe) and go have have a sit in it. The roofline is much lower than a DS. I am 183cm and my hair brushes against the headlining when I have the drivers seat right down on its lowest position and I also drive with the seat back as far as it will go. There is not much space between the back of the seat and the squab of the back seat.

Cheers, Ken
Perhaps modify it a-la a bubble-roof Abarth? :rolllaugh:
 
Beautiful car, you've inspired me to the get the cut and polish out and make a start on on my next project.😉
 

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Ok everyone - it’s crunch time. Booked in for roadworthy Monday… another quick test drive / shake down and bugger: problems!

Drove about 5 klm when the engine started coughing, just got off the main road… lucky I was only a few 100m from home.


What I know is:
- should have enough fuel as I just put 30L in
- there is fuel at the carbie, the carbie filter is clean
- new spark plug leads, distributor cap and finger
- engine seemed to be quite hot, it did overflow a little after stopping
- haven’t pulled the spark plugs yet as I didn’t have any tools with me 😬 (idiot me… far to cocky, eh)
- barely runs, has little power… just hobbled home in first gear…

Just letting her cool down now, have a beer and will tackle her tomorrow again. So, anyone any ideas from the video “coughing”? Spark or fuel? Can’t really be anything else? Valve adjustment issue?
 
How hot do you think it got?
It sounds like spark issues.

Generally fuel problems have a softer effect, ie, they fade out and in.
Electrical is sudden.
 
Have you got a spare coil and condensor to try?Points gap is OK.?
The old saying is 9 out of 10 carburettor problems are ignition.
 
Coil/condensor problems often show up when hot. It may well run fine again once its cooled down.
 
Maybe need to tweak the timing.
Throw the timing light away.
Loosen the dizzy clamp, turn it by hand, one way then the other to find the sweet spot.
Don't be tempted to retrieve the timing light out of the bin.
In 45 years of Dee maintenance I've never owned or even used a timing light. I've never had the need of one.
 
Does the dizzy rotor line up with the cap contacts?
Take the cap off, turn the engine over until the points just open, check that the rotor is pointing to a cap contact.
It's possible that you put the drive gear in a tooth out?
 
Coil/condensor problems often show up when hot. It may well run fine again once its cooled down.
See, that’s the brilliance of the froggers - 5 min and a few good leads - thanks gents. Didn’t touch the coil immediately after stopping, but I didn’t put a new coil or condenser in, so that could be a possibility.

How hot, not sure, but hot enough to push maybe 200ml out of the overflow and the top radiator hose was pretty ‘hard/pressurised’…
 
Does the dizzy rotor line up with the cap contacts?
Take the cap off, turn the engine over until the points just open, check that the rotor is pointing to a cap contact.
It's possible that you put the drive gear in a tooth out?
I am pretty sure the dizzy set up is right as I checked it a number of times - the slot was parallel with the block and the larger half round was ‘the right way’ (just don’t recall which was that was now…)

Also, if it’s not right it wouldn’t run well at all I would think? Not get worse after a while?
 
If you set it at Bob's "sweet spot" and go for a drive and it pings, retard it a bit. That is my standard method.

Incorrect dwell can indeed cook coils.

Roger
 
See, that’s the brilliance of the froggers - 5 min and a few good leads - thanks gents. Didn’t touch the coil immediately after stopping, but I didn’t put a new coil or condenser in, so that could be a possibility.

How hot, not sure, but hot enough to push maybe 200ml out of the overflow and the top radiator hose was pretty ‘hard/pressurised’…
This is probably not related to the poor running.......
But, you have got a low pressure radiator cap on?
 
This is probably not related to the poor running.......
But, you have got a low pressure radiator cap on?
Should be, what, 8lbs?
A misfire will contribute to an overheat condition.
Sven, I just saw the video on YouTube. Ensure the cap has no cracks or carbon tracks, that the wires are good, and that the plug insulators are in place. You might also have a valve adjustment problem- like an exhaust valve isn't opening, and blowing back through the intake. I was able to buy a Peugeot 505 Diesel very cheaply because of that!
 
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Should be, what, 8lbs?
A misfire will contribute to an overheat condition.
Sven, I just saw the video on YouTube. Ensure the cap has no cracks or carbon tracks, that the wires are good, and that the plug insulators are in place.
No, early ones were only 4lbs...... I think still that in '64.
 
How hot, not sure, but hot enough to push maybe 200ml out of the overflow and the top radiator hose was pretty ‘hard/pressurised’…
Mines a later one with the recovery bottle on the inner guard. It probably displaces 500ml into the bottle then sucks it back in when it cools.
Maybe fill yours to the neck and draw 500ml back out and see how it goes.
Its quite complex working out the expansion rate of water under pressure. Ball park figure is a 5% expansion rate from room temp to 100C, works out at 540ml extra based on a Dees coolant capacity, the 4lb cap won't hold it back too much.

Mine always feels quite hot under the bonnet, and the top hose is quite firm.
 
Not sure what radiator cap I have… how can I tell? Maybe I had the radiator too full and it just overflowed a bit to balance.

I will change the condenser and might get a new coil - would anyone know the model of coil I need?

I changed the old plug leads to new ones, new cap, new finger - so that should all be ok.

I will check valve adjustment as well, just to make sure it is all set up ok and check the plugs.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings. If it starts and runs fine first thing it is definitely heat related.
 
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