Koleos Hints, Tips, Problems

[Breitie]

All very interesting Mr.85Fuego, however I wonder how many 'everyday people', who have NO mechanical knowledge, have NO interest in the technical side of vehicles, and DO NOT do any servicing, would ever give a gearbox oil change any thought at all. Likely as not, they would rely on their 'trusted' (ha ha) and 'reliable' (double ha ha ha) Service Agent to do what is required. And as far as I can ascertain, there is NO mandated specific requirement in any service handbook for the Koleos for CVT oil to be changed ever, much less 'early and often'.
As per the official Maintenance Schedule, (in addition to the usual): Brake Fluid replacement = YES, Coolant replacement = YES, Accessory Belt replacement = YES, Timing Belt replacement (where fitted) = YES.
Gearbox oil change = NOT mentioned anywhere??

 

[Kim Luck]

All very interesting Mr.85Fuego, however I wonder how many 'everyday people', who have NO mechanical knowledge, have NO interest in the technical side of vehicles, and DO NOT do any servicing, would ever give a gearbox oil change any thought at all. Likely as not, they would rely on their 'trusted' (ha ha) and 'reliable' (double ha ha ha) Service Agent to do what is required. And as far as I can ascertain, there is NO mandated specific requirement in any service handbook for the Koleos for CVT oil to be changed ever, much less 'early and often'.
As per the official Maintenance Schedule, (in addition to the usual): Brake Fluid replacement = YES, Coolant replacement = YES, Accessory Belt replacement = YES, Timing Belt replacement (where fitted) = YES.
Gearbox oil change = NOT mentioned anywhere??

As there is no huge huge amount of gears in a CVT apart from a reduction gear and the differential assembly I'm not at all surprised that changing the oil is not a high priority. I can't ever remember changing oil in the Renault transaxles. The fact that CVT's also seem much more efficient than slushboxes is also an interesting point to contemplate.

 

[cav91]

Sorry to change the subject but this is the place for koleos!
Our current shape koleos has had from when we bought it (ex demo with 9k on it), the most annoying air noise getting around the tops of the front windows/doors. It's up to 60k now, and both dealer services, (I do an in between one every half service because 30k per oil change is silly), it has been addressed. Both times the dealer who is incredibly helpful and extremely nice. Has agreed it has an air noise that shouldnt be. Both times they believed it was coming in from the window seals and both times have fitted new seals under warranty. Both times they deemed it as fixed. Both times I've driven it home to get the same sound. Admittedly they can't do 110 kms around the city. Has anyone here seen this and would should be done? Driving me even more mad than the cvt does!

I've pulled off the door card hoping I could find some adjustable parts on the window reg to push it up higher. But none. I then tried to adjust the door in, half a mm but again no movement.

 

[bazza18]

Changing CVT fluid

As there is no huge huge amount of gears in a CVT apart from a reduction gear and the differential assembly I'm not at all surprised that changing the oil is not a high priority. I can't ever remember changing oil in the Renault transaxles. The fact that CVT's also seem much more efficient than slushboxes is also an interesting point to contemplate.

I changed mine at around 100,000 after getting tranny hot while towing a caravan (caravan now gone) also I am not sure if everyone knows but there is a tranny fluid dipstick to the right hand side of the engine, bit of a bugger to remove but easy once you master it, if all else fails removing it go to You Tube

 

[Kim Luck]

Sorry to change the subject but this is the place for koleos!
Our current shape koleos has had from when we bought it (ex demo with 9k on it), the most annoying air noise getting around the tops of the front windows/doors. It's up to 60k now, and both dealer services, (I do an in between one every half service because 30k per oil change is silly), it has been addressed. Both times the dealer who is incredibly helpful and extremely nice. Has agreed it has an air noise that shouldnt be. Both times they believed it was coming in from the window seals and both times have fitted new seals under warranty. Both times they deemed it as fixed. Both times I've driven it home to get the same sound. Admittedly they can't do 110 kms around the city. Has anyone here seen this and would should be done? Driving me even more mad than the cvt does!

I've pulled off the door card hoping I could find some adjustable parts on the window reg to push it up higher. But none. I then tried to adjust the door in, half a mm but again no movement.

My 2008 Koleos Diesel Auto is virtually noise free on the highway. To the point that a mechanic friend didn't pick it was a diesel whilst out on the open road. It certainly doesn't suffer from excessive wind noise from anywhere including around the doors. As part of the diagnosis may I ask how tall you are, or whether you ride with the seat adjusted to it's maximum height? Are you aware of the same wind noise when seated in the front passenger seat? Have you asked your dealer to adjust the doors? Are your Koleos windows fitted with weather-shields? Do you have roof mounted bars and accessories? Whilst I think it extremely unlikely that every Koloes sold would be afflicted with the problem you describe, like you, I wait with interest to see what other owners comments are..........

 

[Kim Luck]

I changed mine at around 100,000 after getting tranny hot while towing a caravan (caravan now gone) also I am not sure if everyone knows but there is a tranny fluid dipstick to the right hand side of the engine, bit of a bugger to remove but easy once you master it, if all else fails removing it go to You Tube

I have noticed that the diff/4x4/transmission on six speed auto gets very hot when using 4x4 over long distances(< 40km/h on snow). The book says that if your transmission warning light comes on, wait until it goes off. With the engine running and stationary this can take some time, but it does not require an oil change. (Probably if you stop when the light comes on..........)

 

[85Fuego]

... I wonder how many 'everyday people', who have NO mechanical knowledge, have NO interest in the technical side of vehicles, and DO NOT do any servicing, would ever give a gearbox oil change any thought at all. Likely as not, they would rely on their 'trusted' (ha ha) and 'reliable' (double ha ha ha) Service Agent to do what is required. And as far as I can ascertain, there is NO mandated specific requirement in any service handbook for the Koleos for CVT oil to be changed ever, much less 'early and often'.
As per the official Maintenance Schedule, (in addition to the usual): Brake Fluid replacement = YES, Coolant replacement = YES, Accessory Belt replacement = YES, Timing Belt replacement (where fitted) = YES.
Gearbox oil change = NOT mentioned anywhere??

Breitie, you miss the point. SEALED FOR LIFE = FAILURE INEVITABLE. That's why it's not mentioned anywhere.
It's just a roll of the dice. Dealers as a subsidiary of the manufacturers know that. Statistically there will be boxes that last forever, some die early. Bell curve anyone?

My view on that is that it is rubbish that people don't know. They are happy to scour the internet for gifs and other rubbish but when it comes to servicing their 2nd most expensive asset (whom many rely on every day for transport) they claim ignorance. Research problems, if only casually = 5 mins.

You are right, some don't want to know, but are happy to beat the dealer down on price and bitch and moan when they have to "service" their vehicle every 15 THOUSAND kilometers. But wait, some services don't include brake fluid, no transmission fluid, everything now is a consumable and not covered under warranty.....

Why not tell people don't service and buy another vehicle every 120k?

As there is no huge huge amount of gears in a CVT apart from a reduction gear and the differential assembly I'm not at all surprised that changing the oil is not a high priority. I can't ever remember changing oil in the Renault transaxles. The fact that CVT's also seem much more efficient than slushboxes is also an interesting point to contemplate.

Efficient does not equal problem free.

Myself would not buy a cvt equipped car ever.

One of many "discussions" of nissans & cvt issues. You can't tell me this is unique?
https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9vy56k53?p=4

 

[Kim Luck]

Breitie, you miss the point. SEALED FOR LIFE = FAILURE INEVITABLE. That's why it's not mentioned anywhere.
It's just a roll of the dice. Dealers as a subsidiary of the manufacturers know that. Statistically there will be boxes that last forever, some die early. Bell curve anyone?

My view on that is that it is rubbish that people don't know. They are happy to scour the internet for gifs and other rubbish but when it comes to servicing their 2nd most expensive asset (whom many rely on every day for transport) they claim ignorance. Research problems, if only casually = 5 mins.

You are right, some don't want to know, but are happy to beat the dealer down on price and bitch and moan when they have to "service" their vehicle every 15 THOUSAND kilometers. But wait, some services don't include brake fluid, no transmission fluid, everything now is a consumable and not covered under warranty.....

Why not tell people don't service and buy another vehicle every 120k?



Efficient does not equal problem free.

Myself would not buy a cvt equipped car ever.

One of many "discussions" of nissans & cvt issues. You can't tell me this is unique?
https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/thread/9vy56k53?p=4

I have no doubt that you are a splendidly accomplished do-it-yourself person, however your disdain for the metallurgical properties of modern transmissions, engines and technology, together with your dedication to the oil change intervals from the days of whale and castor oil based lubricants is rather sad in this day and age, for you continue to live (like so many) in the past! I haven't seen a single Koleos CV transmission FAILURE listed here that I can remember, and I'm sure there are by now a reasonable quantity available to be spewing their guts up if they were to be so inclined. You can go on spending money unnecessarily if you wish, but as I have been starting with new cars and keeping them for ten plus years before moving them on I have always been quite happy to use the service intervals and lubricants suggested by the manufacturer, because, like, what the f***k would they know?

 

[Breitie]

I read a bit of the Whirlpool forum and empathise with 'melodicminor' for the 'low note' he appears to have with his cars.
While I accept most of what is being said, I would venture that a lot depends on the way a vehicle is driven and treated.
Cars are mass produced to the lowest common denominator and cost, with enough reliability to survive 10 years (say) and 100,000km. The fact that most now offer an unlimited km warranty over up to seven years with 15 to 30,000km service intervals is astonishing. The fact that cars are technically and mechanically identical in most respects, and some fail earlier than others would point to how they are used and looked after.
Also, 85Fuego's suggestion that people should buy a new vehicle every 120,000km is sensible, and most do that, in fact way before that mileage, and makes manufacturers and dealers happy. I live near an auto 'wrecker' and am amazed at the many apparently very good vehicles that are sent to the shredder. Every day a long procession of lovely vehicles disappear through their gate. Grist for the mill, as the saying goes, in the truest sense of the word.

 

[cav91]

Want to ask a question on the fuses in the koleos. Where is the one for the radio and clock? Can't for the life of me find it. Removed and checked all the fuses in front of the drivers right knee, also checked the ones under the bonnet. All are fine. .

I pulled out the stereo which is aftermarket, saw a tiny little spark as the permanent power wire came out and touched and earth. Now no clock and no radio. Very annoyed as it's the last thing to put back in before I can enjoy amplified music!

 

[Ducaloney]

2013 Koleos Bose with vibration problem

Hi All
have a 2013 Koleos diesel Auto which has vibration between 80-100 Kmph especially accelerating up hill and generally seemed to be running a bit rough.

The vibration felt like a crook CV joint but no tell tale clicking or anything else. Checked the propshaft unis and they felt OK!!

It has done about 177,000 Km and was running very well

Had a local independent look at it and they download a number of fault codes but couldn't really identify the problem(had NO engine light no error indication on the startup check)

codes were
DF046 (Battery Voltage low/high)
DF228 (Brake information)
DF038 (Computer Malfunction)
DF249 (Injector Control Circuit)
DF1012 (Consistant Multiplex Signal from Cruise Control/Speed limiter)

Took it Renault and they did a regen on the DPF and changed the filter & oil and also identified that the "....drivers wishbone engine mount and the lower engine mount to be cracked....."

Quoted $681.00 to fix the mounts but no stock and 6-8 weeks from France

Question has anyone else had this vibration issue and if the mounts are stuffed - will Nissan X trail mounts fit or does anyone know where else I may be able to get a set of mounts??

Thanks

Ducaloney

 

[COL]

Hi All
have a 2013 Ko
leos diesel Auto which has vibration between 80-100 Kmph especially accelerating up hill and generally seemed to be running a bit rough.

The vibration felt like a crook CV joint but no tell tale clicking or anything else. Checked the propshaft unis and they felt OK!!

It has done about 177,000 Km and was running very well

Had a local independent look at it and they download a number of fault codes but couldn't really identify the problem(had NO engine light no error indication on the startup check)

Took it Renault and they did a regen on the DPF and changed the filter & oil and also identified that the "....drivers wishbone engine mount and the lower engine mount to be cracked....."

Quoted $681.00 to fix the mounts but no stock and 6-8 weeks from France

Question has anyone else had this vibration issue and if the mounts are stuffed - will Nissan X trail mounts fit or does anyone know where else I may be able to get a set of mounts??

Thanks

Ducaloney

On my Renault Laguna 1 I had a vibration exactly like you described, it turned out to be the left inner CV joint.

I would replace those parts that have been identified to be faulty and see if the vibration goes away.

If still there after those repairs check the inner drive shaft CV's.

Other than that can't offer anything else.

 

[jo proffi]

My Koleos just had its top mount replaced after vibrations became obvious, but in a slightly different way than yours.
Driving the car was totally fine, but once stopped, idle became a bit like an old Leyland leopard bus, and you could feel every vibration, especially when the AC kicked in.
From memory the top mount was about $300 + labour, so the $681 doesn’t sound too bad.
Jo

 

[JohnW]

French Connection - David tells me he can't sell Koleos parts as they never go wrong....

 

[Breitie]

2014 Koleos Bose door lock noise

My lovely Koelos is lately making a 'groaning' noise in the driver's side door when activating the locking mechanism.
A bit like a 'dry cough'. Perhaps it has caught the dreaded Covid19 virus?
Appears to be a need for some well-targeted lubrication like a squirt of WD40. May have to take the door panel off.
Is that difficult? I am fearful that the lock may fail and lock my dear wife in the car one fine day.
Has anyone got any suggestions, please.

 

[Kim Luck]

2014 Koleos Bose door lock noise

My lovely Koelos is lately making a 'groaning' noise in the driver's side door when activating the locking mechanism.
A bit like a 'dry cough'. Perhaps it has caught the dreaded Covid19 virus?
Appears to be a need for some well-targeted lubrication like a squirt of WD40. May have to take the door panel off.
Is that difficult? I am fearful that the lock may fail and lock my dear wife in the car one fine day.
Has anyone got any suggestions, please.

I've taken the LHS front doorcard off to remove and replace the LH power mirror connections. Like most other cars the panel is held on by spring clips which engage in nylon sockets. A standard flat tool with a notch in the end to fit around the clips works. You will need to undo the grab handle and armrest screws.

 

[Breitie]

Thanks Kim Luck, will try that.
Perhaps I can just prise the door card off partially, sufficient to have access to the door locking mechanism to lubricate it.
Will report back in due course.

 

[Kim Luck]

Thanks Kim Luck, will try that.
Perhaps I can just prise the door card off partially, sufficient to have access to the door locking mechanism to lubricate it.
Will report back in due course.

The top of the card is hooked into the window ledge, I had to undo every clip and screw before I could swing the card up or lift it.

 

[JohnW]

Thanks Kim Luck, will try that.
Perhaps I can just prise the door card off partially, sufficient to have access to the door locking mechanism to lubricate it.
Will report back in due course.

Perhaps use a silicone lubricant not just WD40? Have fun getting to it...

 

[REN TIN TIN]

Hello Breitie,

The groaning noise in your door lock means it is wearing/worn out and will have to be replaced. It will be intermittent at first, working sometimes but not others but eventually it will stop working completely. You will still be able to open the door from inside but not outside. The only fix is replacement and the door lock and solenoid are all one piece so is a bit of a chore. It is sealed against moisture as it's in the door so you can't get at internals to spray any magic silicon or RP7 etc. to make the noise go away (and it probably won't work anyway). Don't be surprised if more than one lock fail. Unless one has been replaced in the past they're all the same age and had the same amount of use so possibly the same amount of wear.

Sadly getting at the door lock in the front doors is a bit of work, you have to pretty much strip out all the door internals to get at the locking mechanism (if you want to remove it or even lubricate it). Obviously you need to remove the door trim but you also have to remove the window glass, the window winder mechanism, and the exterior door handle to remove the lock/solenoid mechanism. Fortunately the window winder mechanism is mounted on a separate card and the motor and pulleys etc. can be removed in one piece. To remove the window glass you have to lower the window about half way so the fixing bolts line up with holes in the door card and you can get a socket onto the bolt heads. Undo two bolts an the glass is easily removed from the top. Then you can remove the winder mechanism complete and the lock is bared before you. It's not hard but fiddly and when you reassemble make sure you route the wires and cables exactly the same way as they were before otherwise they could foul on the window as it goes up and down (don't ask how I know this).
I've got a copy of the appropriate workshop manual, either on a memory stick or my other computer. If it's on my other computer I'll attach a copy or PM, if it's on a memory stick you'll be out of luck as that's at work and we're locked out because of the flu at the moment.

Cheers
RTT

PS. The back door is a lot easier if it comes to that.