Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

[gerrypro]

That tar like stuff is every where on the under side of a Slough traction. Patience a scraper and wire brushes in an electric drill is needed to remove it. The check marks are great to see reproduced and make the car look as authentic as possible. I put a splash of chrome yellow on every flare nut as I replaced the seal and tightened it up properly. This also helps by marking the parts you have completed when re assembling and in this regard is a very useful aid, just as it was in the factory.
Cheers Gerry
PS on the more open panels you could try an 8 inch waffle disc to remove the larger areas of coating. I stripped the finish from my CX using one of these ------quits fast and gentle on the metal.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Gerry,

there is a "tar" like body deadener below the seem line in the firewall. It was crispy, the pressure washer has removed 95% of it leaving black paint. This stuff is like tree sap... It must be dried out brake fluid mixed with dirt & muck . Either way, there's quite a few hours of "fun" there scraping, sanding, wire brushing and fiddling to be done

I'll replace the body deadener with the K&H water borne stuff. It worked brilliantly on "the black turd". It sets to a very heavy texture (the guy at the auto-paint shop said the water based one had a much better texture than the solvent based stoneguard, however it needs a sealed surface under it, you can't apply it to metal/primer).

Unless of course anyone has a good suggestion for a (black) sound deadening coating to apply to the firewall.

seeya,
Shane L

 

[robmac]

Thanks Gerry,

there is a "tar" like body deadener below the seem line in the firewall. It was crispy, the pressure washer has removed 95% of it leaving black paint. This stuff is like tree sap... It must be dried out brake fluid mixed with dirt & muck . Either way, there's quite a few hours of "fun" there scraping, sanding, wire brushing and fiddling to be done

I'll replace the body deadener with the K&H water borne stuff. It worked brilliantly on "the black turd". It sets to a very heavy texture (the guy at the auto-paint shop said the water based one had a much better texture than the solvent based stoneguard, however it needs a sealed surface under it, you can't apply it to metal/primer).

Unless of course anyone has a good suggestion for a (black) sound deadening coating to apply to the firewall.

seeya,
Shane L

Shane,

Sceney's citrus solvent removes the tar residue like a dream.

The downside is that it makes a black paste goo. This can be scraped off with a scraper. Gun wash takes off the black marks and you get nice clean metal again.

cheers


Rob

 

[David S]

A bit of diesel can also work, but still quite messy to work with.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Guys,

I'll give them a shot. I'm going to have to pull some high pressure lines and see what's easiest. Fortunately only the areas where spheres/hydraulic the unions are have this buildup

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[gerrypro]

Thanks Gerry,

there is a "tar" like body deadener below the seem line in the firewall. It was crispy, the pressure washer has removed 95% of it leaving black paint. This stuff is like tree sap... It must be dried out brake fluid mixed with dirt & muck . Either way, there's quite a few hours of "fun" there scraping, sanding, wire brushing and fiddling to be done

I'll replace the body deadener with the K&H water borne stuff. It worked brilliantly on "the black turd". It sets to a very heavy texture (the guy at the auto-paint shop said the water based one had a much better texture than the solvent based stoneguard, however it needs a sealed surface under it, you can't apply it to metal/primer).

Unless of course anyone has a good suggestion for a (black) sound deadening coating to apply to the firewall.

seeya,
Shane L

I used the water based one by K&H on the sills of the CX 1st time around. I cracked a crazed once over painted and let moisture in to the metal surface. Consequently I stripped it all off , fixed any rust that had appeared and refinished the surface with filler, under coats solvent based K&H Stone guard, primer and then topcoats in acrylic. I would not touch the water based stuff again.
Cheers Gerry

 

[DoubleChevron]

I used the water based one by K&H on the sills of the CX 1st time around. I cracked a crazed once over painted and let moisture in to the metal surface. Consequently I stripped it all off , fixed any rust that had appeared and refinished the surface with filler, under coats solvent based K&H Stone guard, primer and then topcoats in acrylic. I would not touch the water based stuff again.
Cheers Gerry

Thanks Gerry,

the guy at the auto-paint place told me I must NOT put it over bare metal, it must a properly painted and sealed surface (as you have found). It still looks great on the black turd that lives out in the weather It was applied over painted panels with a body deadener gun. It takes on a really nice textured look. I was going to apply it over POR hardnose.

Given your feedback however, I will certainly not use it. As you would have to remove the entire drivetrain to re-coat if it fails!

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[gerrypro]

Shane I put it over properly undercoated surfaces and it still gave strife.
Cheers Gerry

 

[DoubleChevron]

Shane I put it over properly undercoated surfaces and it still gave strife.
Cheers Gerry

Thanks Gerry,

There's not something like a stick on tar blanket I can use rather than body deadener is there I'm sure that would be more effective and reducing sound transmission ... and look just the same (well it's hidden down behind the motor either way).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[gerrypro]

Does the car have the aluminium shields similar to the later models?( I know my old ling stroke Pallas had them) If so a layer of carpet underfelt glued onto the fire wall bulge and then treated with bituminous body deadener makes an excellent sound barrier, and the aluminium shields a screwed right over the top so you would never see it. The plus is that once treated it would also be totally impervious to water. The bitumen would have to be thinned at first to soak in then applied thicker once the felt is impregnated.
Cheers Gerry

 

[Middlemoon.1]

For goodness sake shane, as you get older you can't hear it anyway - loud bands and power tools will have seen to that surely?? Certainly have for me.

Best wishes,

Tim

 

[gerrypro]

The difference in sound levels between an ID 19 and my DS19 Pallas was quite marked. My thoughts are that it is quite worthwhile.
Cheers Gerry

 

[GreenBlood]

Thanks Gerry,

There's not something like a stick on tar blanket I can use rather than body deadener is there I'm sure that would be more effective and reducing sound transmission ... and look just the same (well it's hidden down behind the motor either way).

seeya,
Shane L.

Jaycar sell a tar like sheet for sound deadening but for what you get it's quite expensive and not that thick - more used to take the drumming out of door skins. I'm using it on the rear parcel shelf under the vinyl trim - maybe also on the underside of the shelf in the boot to help the speakers cope.

I think if you see the spray on coating as a sound deadener and not a rust protection, then the process would be to paint using the rust protection of your choice mask and spray the textured sound deadener where required, in which case the water based stuff should be ideal.

Cheers
Chris

 

[DoubleChevron]

For goodness sake shane, as you get older you can't hear it anyway - loud bands and power tools will have seen to that surely?? Certainly have for me.

Best wishes,

Tim

I'm already half deaf (just ask my wife).... I'd like to retain any hearing I have left :roflmao:

GB, I think your right, it's only a sound deadener, that is why they have only used it behind the motor in the "hump" back into the passenger area, and beneath the car. The pressure washer blasted it all off revealing black paint beneath.

Gerry, that would work pefectly, no doubt I want to leave it looking original though, so I'd like to leave it black without the alluminium there.

I'm wondering if something like this wouldn't work:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SOUND-PR...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e7ca9832

within 6months it would be a little grotty and pretty much undetectable from body deadener (unless your specifically searching for it). This is just for the "hump" area where the factory put the deadener over the top of the paint (so it'll be mostly hidden by the motor itself).

Any coating can't be to thick either, we don't want to restrict air flow down there.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[richo]

Given it is only 5mm thick and made from EPDM, I'd say it is an LHS2 dream come true. It's closed cell on the face, you could seal the edge with Butyl Mastic to prevent soak of grot, fluid, whatever. Nitto Butyl tape even, though that is expeensive.
As for it's actual effectiveness as a sound deadener, unless they have test data, best buy one and let us know.
Sound meters are cheap these days. The one I've had for the past 35 years was ridiculously expensive, now you can buy one for the value of the batteries almost.
Give it a go Shane, worth a try.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Given it is only 5mm thick and made from EPDM, I'd say it is an LHS2 dream come true. It's closed cell on the face, you could seal the edge with Butyl Mastic to prevent soak of grot, fluid, whatever. Nitto Butyl tape even, though that is expeensive.
As for it's actual effectiveness as a sound deadener, unless they have test data, best buy one and let us know.
Sound meters are cheap these days. The one I've had for the past 35 years was ridiculously expensive, now you can buy one for the value of the batteries almost.
Give it a go Shane, worth a try.

Hi Richo,

yeah I have a cheapo SPL meter that I used when I insulatd the CX... The issue is .... I won't have a before reading. I guess someone with a standard ID19 could measure how loud there car is as a comparison (but being a different car .. with different exhaust, motor, engine mounts, etc.... really makes any comparsion null and void).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[ARCHRIVAL]

just think fire bitumen jute hessian foam oil spark whoosh

shiny por 15 and some fire retardant epdm foam no whoosh

 

[DoubleChevron]

just think fire bitumen jute hessian foam oil spark whoosh

shiny por 15 and some fire retardant epdm foam no whoosh

:roflmao: :roflmao: :roflmao:

It would be fine behind the alluminium heat shield I reckon that EPDM rubber will certainly be worth a shot. You can always peel it off at a later point if it's no good. I'll be insulating inside as well, but it would still be crazy not to put *something* on the outside, even the factory put deadener there

You have reminded me ... I better chase up a carby kit and modify the carby with my last threaded, barbed brass fuel inlet. I probaby should ask Buttercup Bob where he got these from so I can make up some more.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[pugrambo]

threaded barbs you will find at any good hydraulic place

 

[DoubleChevron]

It sounds like we have a few people trying to strip there DS hulls on here at the moment. Here's what I'm doing ( right or wrong ... remember I'm lazy with a capital "L" ).

The big stripper discs that you put into "body grinders" (american speak for low spend sander polishers). It looks like a pile of melted nylon string/webbing on a disc... These are brilliant, you have lot of control of the machine and it cuts fast without melting .... Bog isn't to nice to cut through (it does it easily, but he cloud of dust created isn't nice). I generally use the new stripper/waffle disk on some rusty metal first to remove some of it's aggressivenes, or it heavily scratches the metal. These are no good for engine bays and inside hulls (to physically big).

4" grinders with flap discs in them are good. Plenty of control, you can hold with one hand if required without any problem (to get into tight spots).

Test a small spot first ... If the paints going to melt, it'll be no good (ie: don't go near body deadener with it). It'll take of dried old paint in the blink of an eye ...

This took no time at all... A couple of minutes. Note: The strip down the middle that still has body deader on it ... It'll be a melty mess if I go near it with this.

Keys the surface perfectly for re-painting

By far the most useful for these smaller areas... Is a variety of wire brushes in your grinder .... Don't use a shitty grinder like a Ryobi or no-named junk. Last time I got about 3minute from a brand new Ryobi with a wire brush in it before i stripped the gears in the head of the grinder. A decent makita will do the trick ... I borrowed this one from my father about 10years ago ... I must return it someday

It'll get into much tighter places (except for tight edges). I hate using these things though. The best advice you could give it "hang on tight ... with both hands". If the wire wheel touches a edge ... or a bolt head/stud ... or anything it'll grab on, it'll tear straight out of your hands.

The other issue of course is the wire brushes themselves. If you have bought a chinese brush, throw it in the bin, don't even bother fitting it to your grinder. I've plucked wires from my legs that would easily have been 10mm deep ... If it's out of balance ... chuck it in the bin. The wire brush **MUST** be made somewhere like Australia, New Zealand, USA, UK ...etc... It'll then retain most of it's wires and wear down to it's base.

Of course these tight spots are fun. I'll have to do that by hand somehow

seeya,
Shane L.