Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

[DoubleChevron]

I'd like to throw all of the visible fasteners into the bucket to be plated.... You see, it doesn't matter if you take 10bolts up there ..... all an entire car of fasteners.... the price is the same. So it's worth doing them all at once.

An intact handbrake lever .... You don't often see one of them

Seeing the picture of the newly installed height corrector linkage boot here on aussiefrogs the other day .... got me thinking, I bet this sort of stuff lets LOTS of heat and smells into the car. To be fixed while there's not motor in there

un-broken top cover

Note: rear screw on the instrument surround. It's not obvious

Interesting reverse light switch .... I like it that's smart.

I wonder if this is a thermo-set plastic ... If so it may regain some shape if I heat it and twist back straight

 

[David S]

If you've taken the rack out, leave the track rods on and secure them to the top suspension arm with a hose clamp. Then you can roll it without the wheels turning in opposite directions.

It also really makes life easy to jack the car up and fit blocks inside the suspension cylinders. You can buy a fitting that replaces the sphere and does this job with as much adjustment as you desire.

 

[DoubleChevron]

This car has spent a lot of time somewhere very hot and dry I imagine. This is the trimming edge around the roof ... disintigrated. The top of the dash panel is heavily sun damaged. You can also see how sunburnt the seats are in the piccies.

This is what that roof trim in the piccie above should look like... I hope I can find something to replace this with... hmmm...

How the hell does a temp gauge have so much wiring

The dash needs to come out ... so I can get rid of this stinky sh!t. There's been a mouse or ten living in here. I also need to access the rear of the firewall to replace a couple of studs that sheered off (to mount the windscreen washer)

I hope this very nice period clock (made in the uk) still works... it can stay.

this all comes apart so easily it's bloody hilarious.... At first I was horified at the thought of removing the dash .... The memories of the incredible tediousness of the XM are still strong .... I should have remember this here is a proper car... It's was built by people, not machines, so readily comes apart .... 2days to do an XM dash ... I reckon someone that's never seen one of these before would have it out in an hour tops :roflmao:

Ugly 80's ( ?? ) radio doesn't belong in a 50s->60s car. Possibly 504 era Anyone have a nice tidy 504 they want a period radio for ?? i think it'll work with an aerial hooked up.

 

[DoubleChevron]

It's an aussie made radio if anyone wants it (note: the knobs are even there).

A lifetime supply of metal polish (at least it is for someone like me :roflmao: ). This tin must be 5years old and is still 95% full.

I noticed the other day, those switch knobs are solid brass (or bronze). A little elbow grease will give you a stunning finish.

Note: Don't scratch them or the dash unscrewing them. Maybe your best bet would be to wrap you multi-grip pliers with some insulation tape so they won't scratch. DO NOT UNSCREW from the outside, you will scratch the painted while line finish from the dash. rather just hold the nut, remove the glovebox and rotate the switch from behind. Note: the inside on the tip of the plastic switch looks like it maybe a section of solid brass plate too. It should polish up like gold if you have a go at it (you can see I spent a couple of minutes on this one and it's starting to come clean). talk about "bling" compared to the plastic crap with plating that falls off fitted to the later cars

Once the dash is out, I'll put as many layers as will fit on the firewall of that insulation to quieten her down and reduce heat transfer. the motor is litterally just a couple of inches from your knee in these cars). And there is bugger all sound or heat proofing there!

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[pugrambo]

you'll find that it's closer to 60/70's radio

 

[DoubleChevron]

you'll find that it's closer to 60/70's radio

I'm going to fit un-butchered dash trim to the car .... So it goes. It would look great in a tidy original Peugeot from that period though. It's no doubt been pulled from a locally assembled Poogoe of some sort given it's made in Australia

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[pugrambo]

I'm going to fit un-butchered dash trim to the car .... So it goes. It would look great in a tidy original Peugeot from that period though. It's no doubt been pulled from a locally assembled Poogoe of some sort given it's made in Australia

seeya,
Shane L.

stick it in the CX, it can only be an improvement and you never know it might make the car more reliable having a major pug part in it

 

[pugrambo]

it doesn't suit a 604 as they had shitty philips crap in them from new that weren't worth a pinch if sh1t otherwise i'd grab it

it would suit a 404 or very early 504 though

 

[gerrypro]

I think you will find that those faces of the switches are plated and any abrasive such as Brasso will cut straight through to the underlying die cast.
Cheers Gerry

 

[gerrypro]

Ugly 80's ( ?? ) radio doesn't belong in a 50s->60s car. Possibly 504 era Anyone have a nice tidy 504 they want a period radio for ?? i think it'll work with an aerial hooked up.

I had a radio in my 65 Pallas similar to that. Only it said "Phillips" not Peugeot. Preset radios were available through most of the 60's so it could stay. No doubt you would need to do something about that god awful name!!
Cheers Gerry

 

[DoubleChevron]

I think you will find that those faces of the switches are plated and any abrasive such as Brasso will cut straight through to the underlying die cast.
Cheers Gerry

the bits inside the plastic handle you mean ?? The mounting nuts are solid brass.... that's how I figured out I could polish them... I deeply scratched one trying to unscrew it and noticed it was *really* shiny in the scratch.... No plating, solid brass (hey I could be wrong, if so, it's very thick plating).

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[GreenBlood]

...just a tidy up

So, is the look you hoping to achieve Shane?

Jim's Cabriolet as seen at the AFCD Brisbane - OMG, it's just insane, where did he source all the bling?

Cheers
Chris

 

[Adrian Wuillemi]

Shane,

Would love the radio to put in the 504 coupe.

Thanks
Adrian

 

[gerrypro]

So, is the look you hoping to achieve Shane?

Jim's Cabriolet as seen at the AFCD Brisbane - OMG, it's just insane, where did he source all the bling?

Cheers
Chris

There are specialist who will do the wood graining for you. It is a painting process starting with a base coat of lighter colour and the grain is applied with a sponge and brush then all is sealed under a layer of clear.
many years ago Wattyl made wood graining kits. I trie on the widow garnish mouldings of my 51 L15. Never really looked as good as the original so it is probably best to leave it to a pro.
Cheers Gerry

 

[DoubleChevron]

So, is the look you hoping to achieve Shane?

Jim's Cabriolet as seen at the AFCD Brisbane - OMG, it's just insane, where did he source all the bling?

Cheers
Chris

Nah,

the fake wood look doesn't do much for me ... Original is the way to go I'll get some paint matched and re-spray the grey'ish colour back on

I will try and get the vent levers, gearshift lever and light switch levers out for plating though. They look ugly and corroded (just like they do in later D's). No doubt you'll not be able to remove them without destruction though

If you look, what dresses that ID up the most is the matching carpet everywhere. I'm going to try and remove and refit the black vinyl stuff without damaging it. Hopefully one of the cars has a perfect rubber front mat I can keep on the floor.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Shane,

Would love the radio to put in the 504 coupe.

Thanks
Adrian

PM me your postal address and I'll drop it into the mail.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[GreenBlood]

There are specialist who will do the wood graining for you. It is a painting process starting with a base coat of lighter colour and the grain is applied with a sponge and brush then all is sealed under a layer of clear.
many years ago Wattyl made wood graining kits. I trie on the widow garnish mouldings of my 51 L15. Never really looked as good as the original so it is probably best to leave it to a pro.
Cheers Gerry

I was more refering to all the switch gear etc. everything looks new, I mean everything...

The faux woodgrain looks superb on the cabrio but would be over the top on a Shane's id :wink2:

Cheers
Chris

 

[lhs2.1]

Shane, the ribbed return hose in EPDM (various sizes) is (was?) available from the usual suppliers in Europe. I last bought some from MyParts. Doesn't have the red stripe tho.
roger

 

[DoubleChevron]

Thanks Roger,

the last time I purchased a length of EPDM hose for the reseviour -> pump on an ID19 it was about $70 from memory ..................

Crazy money when it's just EPDM rubber hose ... I doubt it has any special charactoristics .... I might measure the internal diameter of the stuff I need and try and buy it from a supplier such as this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/10mm-3-8-CAR-HE...CommercialVehicleParts_SM&hash=item3a61e4b5d5

As you can see it's about $4.00 a meter .... Not $70 It'll just come down to finding out if you can buy it in the right size! The issue will be flexibility if the wall thickness is to great.

seeya,
Shane L.

 

[DoubleChevron]

Still slowly coming apart... I didn't intend to do the firewall before it was back together and running... But hey, it's a 'D', the damn things like being pulled into an horific number of parts ... Access to the firewall it so easy from this side.

Of all the crazy problems.... I just couldn't unscrew the indicator switch.. the inner plastic part kept turning with the nut. You can see where I've broken and chiseled the plastic away so I can hold the nut. Talk about confusing.

It wasn't until it was completelly out that I figured out what was going on.... Whoever last fitted the switch over-tightened it and smashed the plastic thread at the base of the nut... meaning the nut turns forever with the small section of plastic thread that passes through it. Bugger it These things are a nifty little timer switch that glows. I do have a spare, I hope it works! 'Cos my black car hard a normal switch replacing it (so there isn't a working spare in that ).

Something I hadn't consider before .... Um, none of these cars have keys I wonder if a locksmith can cut a key for the car (hopefully it'll be the same as the doors). I guess I can move the locks over from the black car.

If one of the vent levers doesn't appear to work, this is why. The base of them where it is retained, is a squished down rivet ..... Then didn't squish 'em well enough. Just replace with a nut and bolt and you should have a permanent fix. All of these levers are being thrown into the bucket to be plated too.

The edge trim under the windscreen should look like this...

but is broken and brittle like this ... I guess I'll see if clark rubber has something similar, otherwise the dash will rattle at the back edge and look ugly.

No wonder these things are so NOISY .... the damn motor is really sitting just a few centimeters from your left knee .... and there really is bugger all sound or heat insulation there. I'm going to try and put at least 4 layers of insulation there to cut the noise and heat transfer down. I think it'll be an immense improvement that's completely hidden