Right, I get you now. Still, some 8mm nuts around the thing would probably get it off probably with less effort and you might even save it.
Is anyone else being driven insane by mowers that don't cut ?
- Thread starter DoubleChevron
- Start date
Finally I decided to get back to this. I I cut the pipe off and welded an M14 bolt to the face of the filter ..... Or more exactly I tried to about six times. I don't know what the filter housing is made of, its magnetic, but you can't weld to it. It just breaks away.
Even with all the welding heat .... it hasn't budged in the slightest. Keep in mind, Nothing holds this in. I pulled it out of the parts tractor with my fingers.
So now I have an un-usable tractor .... exactly as I expected ..... ARRRRRrrrrrhhhhhhh......
You can bet behind this through the hole with anything that has a hook I'd think .... So I searched the shed for something with a hook .... I just couldn't find anyhting that I thought would work.
Hmm... a hook. that fits into the hole perfectly and locks itself in place behind the filters face.
I welded the remains of the M14 bolt to this .... bloody finally, metal that actually welds (talk about frustrating.
that bit of pipe is what I sleave the CX top ball joint with to push it out ...... As I tightened in, I kept belting the lot with a hammer, and it felt like it was coming out ....
All I did was snap the end off the puller leg
How in the hell is this bloody thing so tight! I have no idea where to go from here, Its had lots of intense welding heat into it, I've hit it, chiseled it, snapped a puller leg off within it .... Why in the hell didn't I just leave the filter alone .... and not try to clean it 
I'm also to the point now, where I'm going to have to buy another tractor and get the hydraulic unit from it.
Even with all the welding heat .... it hasn't budged in the slightest. Keep in mind, Nothing holds this in. I pulled it out of the parts tractor with my fingers.
So now I have an un-usable tractor .... exactly as I expected ..... ARRRRRrrrrrhhhhhhh......
You can bet behind this through the hole with anything that has a hook I'd think .... So I searched the shed for something with a hook .... I just couldn't find anyhting that I thought would work.
Hmm... a hook. that fits into the hole perfectly and locks itself in place behind the filters face.
I welded the remains of the M14 bolt to this .... bloody finally, metal that actually welds (talk about frustrating.
that bit of pipe is what I sleave the CX top ball joint with to push it out ...... As I tightened in, I kept belting the lot with a hammer, and it felt like it was coming out ....
All I did was snap the end off the puller leg
How in the hell is this bloody thing so tight! I have no idea where to go from here, Its had lots of intense welding heat into it, I've hit it, chiseled it, snapped a puller leg off within it .... Why in the hell didn't I just leave the filter alone .... and not try to clean it I'm also to the point now, where I'm going to have to buy another tractor and get the hydraulic unit from it.
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While you've still got the end of the filter with a hole in it, have you got a hubcap puller (sliding hammer)? A bit of impact might work better than a steady pull.
Then it's time for the die grinder, try not to eat into the housing, just grind a groove down one side, like a keyway. Maybe that will then allow you to chisel it inwards (collapse the tube).
A real Murphy.
Then it's time for the die grinder, try not to eat into the housing, just grind a groove down one side, like a keyway. Maybe that will then allow you to chisel it inwards (collapse the tube).
A real Murphy.
Oh, you can't chisel it inwards, its a blind tank, you could never clean the fragments out. The only option is pulling it towards you. I might try making a slide hammer from one of the other puller legs. I'm just dumbfounded this thing didn't just fall out as soon as the welding heat hit it. Its just sitting in there ..... not retained at all. sitting on an Oring.
By chisel inwards, I mean collapse the tube to a slightly smaller diameter, hopefully it will loosen a bit and you can draw it outwards.
Oh yeah, I've already considered that too
... its all recessed, so it going to be a challenge without damaging the housing. Imagine how boring life would be if everything was simple though 
Have you tried running a stick weld along the inside of the stuck piece? That will shrink the diameter down. Works a treat on immovable wheel bearings races etc, bit of of weld on the inside and they just fall out.Oh yeah, I've already considered that too
Only other alternative, is the old grind and weaken the tube with small grinding bits enough to enable the tube to collapse inward, then I would assist the process with a small sharp chisel to prise it away from the wall then hook the filter out or use the stick weld method to pull it out. Good luck you get a perfect result. Pity you weren't closer so you could use my oxy acetylene setup as well.
Ken
Ken
Not on the inside ... no (I don't want debris to end up down in the tank). I've got the face of it all glowing red hot extensively with the welder though.Have you tried running a stick weld along the inside of the stuck piece? That will shrink the diameter down. Works a treat on immovable wheel bearings races etc, bit of of weld on the inside and they just fall out.
Well the three legged puller is no good now it only has two legs .... and now only 1 leg.
So we have some round bar, a bit of towbar tongue welded to the end of it and a very heavy sledge hammer head.
and it looks to have moved. look at that, its not rusted in place. I couldn't move it any further than this. I just couldn't get the swing on the sledge hammer head as everything was in the way. So I used it as a counterweight to hold the puller leg in place.
and found another big hammer .... to use againt the sledge hammer head. Who am I kidding, this thing was NEVER coming out.
Its a hell of a workout beating the shit out of it.
and look at this
Its not the lovely factory soldered together brass screen. This must be an aftermarket filter ..... Its too big in the body so it was just hammer home into the housing. And obviously never again replaced or cleaned as it was effectively cold welded into place.
the best thing is the housing should be unmarked
Success! And by the look of the filter - worth the hassle. 
I just cleaned and lubed up the filter out of the parts tractor. Its not even snug, it sits in the housing on the Oring, its not supposed to be a press fit!
Well done, Shane! Definitely worth the effort.
Roger
Roger
Will I ever get the damn tractor out of my shed? I just remove and refitted the fuel filter and got it leak free, which is everything done. However I noticed a slight chuffing ... and figure it could only be coming from the glow plugs or injectors .... So I grabbed the near tin which was degreaser and sprayed over everything there to check for bubbles..... Yeah nice, we have a genius here. So after trying to wipe all the degreaser from my eyes (that the engine driven fan blew everywhere) I found 3 of the 4 injectors are bubbling around there base with the motor running. This means they are bleeding off compression. I figure I'll leave this for "another day". The seals in there would be six years old I guess. I'd have to go back to the start of this thread to see how they seal into the head as I'm pretty sure I posted stuff about injectors.
The seals in mine have probably been there for 47 years.
Roger
Roger
they were quite loose. I just went back through the pictures here. They are like the seal on a spark plug. I should have run a spanner over them after the tractor had been through a few heat cycles. I'll probably need to replace them at some point. I loosed all the nuts and wiggled the injectors then pulled them down evenly. the chuffing has gone away, but I can still see traces of bubbles aroudn the base of the injectors if I hose them down with soemthing
Just shows, one man's bodge job is another's blight, but great when the challenge is met, well done!
I was going to say Mr Valdez.
Well now you mention it I did change the gearbox oil on the slasher .... its has always leaked oil, so I've always just topped the moisture contaminated oil that is in it.
Last years I was topping it up and thought ...... i wonder if the bleeder is blocked ?? hmmm.... I tried to blow through the filler cap/bleeder and couldn't. So I drilled through the valving in the bleeder. It then stopped leaking oil from the seals ... I still couldn't get the oil out to change it though. Anyway, I picked up a pump from ALDI a few months back.
One of these.... it actually worked quite well. So I managed to get rid of the old water tainted oil from the mower gearbox as well. You couldn't use that pump for anything large as it doesn't flow enough. it did take a while to pump the 800ml from the mower gearbox.
Slasher oil seals are notoriously leaky, because stuff often wraps around them and damages them. A light grade grease is usully recommended. Maybe NLGI grade 00 (or 000 or 0) instead of the usual grade 2 general purpose grease.
Roger
Roger