D Series Fuel Inlet Fitting Fix Kit

ajaxvte said:
I just received what I think was the last kit from Roger. It was brought on by noticing fuel leaking onto the inlet manifold when working on the hydraulics recently. Thank goodness the car was stationary and the engine not yet hot. I got a real fright. I replaced the hose and clamp as a temporary fix and will attend to the fitting very shortly. Belated thanks to Richo and the aussiefrogs community.
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Roger has just replied to an email, he still has 5 basic kits available, i.e. no 9 x 1mm bottoming taps left - several AF members have offered these (myself included) as they are hard to source and quite expensive for a one off use.

So, if you haven't already fitted the tapped barb get in quick. . . :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
 
Thanks. The bottoming taps (M9x1mm) are indeed hard to source. Another aussiefrogger (PeterMol) has kindly offered to lend me his for the job.

GreenBlood said:
Roger has just replied to an email, he still has 5 basic kits available, i.e. no 9 x 1mm bottoming taps left - several AF members have offered these (myself included) as they are hard to source and quite expensive for a one off use.

So, if you haven't already fitted the tapped barb get in quick. . . :wink2:

Cheers
Chris
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richo said:
From the grave.....

I still like these stupid cars and trying to save them.
Can machine up fittings, if I do a batch.
Can make up kits, if there's sufficient interest.

Had a PM from someone who doesn't know what a crumpy gunt I am. Poor polite bastiche.
Australia Post charges like a wounded bull on steroids now.

I'll check here in a few days.
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Hi Richo,

I am sure I speak for many when I say welcome back and you HAVE BEEN MISSED. Great to see your post, all the best to you

Best Regards
your mate of sorts, Mark (Leconte) B.
 
I am sufficiently paranoid after reading this thread....I'll take one when you make up a new batch


Sent from my iPad using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
Hi Richo will these kits work on a DMTR carb for a CX?
richo said:
I've spent a few hours machining some fittings, have clamps on hand and have ordered the taps.
Taps will arrive in 3 weeks.

Revised 2013 pricing as follows.

KIT: consist of
1 x fitting
1 x fuel injection type hose clamp
1 x length of PTFE tape for wrapping thread on fitting
1 x tap for making thread in carb body.
$40 including postage within Australia

EXTRA FITTING KIT:
1 x threaded fitting
1 x fuel hose clamp
1 x length of PTFE tape
$15 purchased at time of kit order, no extra for postage.

Pre-payment is requested and appreciated. PM or Email me at
jackafrica@gmail.com

With your mailing details I will send banking deposit information.

As in the past, once all components are available, they'll be in the post.
This will be the last batch I make. I'm doing it hoping to save the cars and owners from grief.
Thanks for your support.

Please continue to post your order for kits here.

cheers,
richo
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I must say, it's great to see Richo popping into the forum.
While his warm underbelly is showing, perhaps he could be persuaded to do a re - release of his magnificent alternator conversions.
I know I would be down for 1 or 2.
Anyone else interested.
 
Indeed...... Hi Richo!

I still have about 20 taps and quite a few fittings...... and can supply kits if Richo is too crumpy...... or otherwise pre-occupied.

Over the years I have also supplied kits for other sized carby inlets..... like 6mm and 1/4" using 7 x 1 thread.
If you want kits for other cars with stupid pressed in brass fittings, I need to know the outside diameter of the brass tube.
If its 8mm or 5/16" you'll get the standard 9 x 1 type.
 
Hi Richo
I thought you were dead
I guess you aren't
Could you text me your phone number I lost it after you rang me a few years back with your then new number
To make sense it's Col who bought the C5 a few years back (still have it)
I have obtained a D special since we last spoke
Cheers
 
Done, finally. image.jpg
 
The lack of separation between fuel and ignition is quite frightening. Don't seem to remember this problem with GS, CX or carby BX models. Maybe they do learn.

Cheers, Ken
 
Yes,

Is the hose in the pic actually FUEL hose?
Is it emission hose, without re-inforcemnent?

Good fuel hose would carry the SAE J30 standard mark with R6 minimum (good for 50psi)
For fuel injection systems or fuel with ethanol the R9 standard is better (100psi and low permitivity)

Also, I don't like screw clamps in small sizes... because they tighten to a very non circular shape. I've been working on safety aspects of fuel systems on engines in another field, and we've moved completely away from screw clamps. On thin wall hose they are hopeless, as they draw the band to 1 point, and as the circle gets smaller its shape gets worse, actually causing leaks. There have been several disastrous fires attributed to this feature, where the operator hass noticed the leak, tightened the clamp further, resulting in fracturing of the hose material, and an even bigger leak.
While fuel hose of R7 or R9 type are thicker wall and less likely to leak in this way, their inner layer is prone to fracture from over tightening of non circular clamps.

We now favour "Oetiker type 101" clamps with 2 ears, which draw the band to 2 points and as they tighten, and the circle gets better.

One perceived downside of these clamps is that they can only be used once. However they are easily removed and replaced with new, if the hose needs to be disconnected. Their low cost makes it easy to keep a good stock in a variety of sizes.

Another part of the system that has significant bearing on hose performance is the design of the barbs on the brass tail.

Obviously straight smooth tails, like the Weber & Solex original type are deficient, while some barbs are too aggressive, causing hose damage and difficult removal. An important feature of barbs is the smooth bulge at the end, which does 2 things. It gives a larger diameter for the hose under the clamp to pull against, physically preventing it from coming off, and it provides a smooth seal face. The tail needs to be long enough to get the clamped part of the hose fully beyond the bulge. I have experienced carbies with sharp barbed tails so short that the (original factory supplied) screw clamp sits over the larger end barb and if moderately tightened it will slide off. If tightened more it cuts the hose inner, then the hose structure fails and it leaks and falls off.

So....... be careful with barb, hose and clamp selection.
 
It's always been my understanding that fittings with multiple barbs shaped like a pine/fir tree were really intended to take a hose of the intended diameter as a push or press on fit without a clip, although often with a ferule in higher pressure situations. If it would leak without a clip or not seem secure, then the hose being used is obviously the wrong size. You would certainly use a clip with a fitting with a single bead at the end, but the clip can cut the inside of the hose when it is tightened onto a barb with multiple ribs. No doubt it will be covered in some standard somewhere. Regardless, common sense should prevail and it's smart to replace the original brass tube inlet on these older carbs where the die-cast eventually creeps.

A worm drive clip can make matters worse as in the small sizes it's hard to get them to tighten evenly because there is usually no radius on the inside of the part with the screw. The EFI style clips are indeed much better, but have a narrow hose diameter range for any given size of clip. You want the slips with the tongue that extends from one side across the gap and under the other side to form a complete band of metal. There are other clips for other applications that look very similar, but do not have the tongue.

That hose is marked 'EPA compatible', which suggests that it is likely low permeability fuel hose suited for multiple fuels, including those with ethanol. It doesn't have to deal with much pressure. How much pressure can the carby's float valve hold anyway?
 
Its only very low pressure hose systems that would tolerate use without a clamp at all.
A mechanical fuel pump can only deliver pressure limited by the spring in the pump.

I've taken to using electric fuel pumps in all carby equipped cars..... to avoid protracted cranking during starting.
These can deliver a bit more fuel pressure, depending on the style of pump.

Either way I wouldn't use a hose/barb on a carby without a clamp.
The barb tails I and Richo supplied in the kits have a very moderate saw tooth shank with a gentle smooth bulge at the end.
These are designed to have a clamp fitted with low clamping pressure over the shank, with the bulge there to prevent it coming off, either from a pull on the hose, or from pressure.

I wouldn't use a fuel hose without SAE J30 R7 or R9 marking.
The hose in the pic may have this, but I'm not sure what EPA compliance means here.

Certainly my experience with the EPA in NSW would indicate that compliance means very little.
 
Hey Bob ... you know proper cars have a lever on the pump to prime them :D You aren't driving modern new fangled things made into the 1970's are you :p :p :roflmao:

CX's DO DEFINITELY have this problem as well. The brass fitting is just pushed into a twin barrel weber rather than the various carbies used on D's over the years.

You could always use ligarex bands on the fuel lines if your concerned about the screw type clamps :)

Old land rover/range rovers would be a good source for low pressure pumps. They have huge external filter housings for the fuel line too.

seeya,
Shane L.
 
DoubleChevron said:
Hey Bob ... you know proper cars have a lever on the pump to prime them :D You aren't driving modern new fangled things made into the 1970's are you :p :p :roflmao:

seeya,
Shane L.
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Well............... Yes....... GS 1220 are from the '70s.......
Prior to fitting the GS motor 2 years ago......
and prior to fitting the electric pump 3 years ago, I was having huge issues with the mechanical pump on the 2CV 435cc.
I replaced it with a new one...... no difference..... I made a new pushrod 3mm longer.... no difference.
In the end I decided it must be getting too hot, so I cut a cooling air slot in the back of the fan housing.... that helped.

But I decided to chuck it away and go electric..... huge improvement and instant starting.... brilliant.
Then when the flywheel bolts broke on the 435, I decided it was time to upgrade. Yes, I could have put a 602 in, but I didn't have one, and as I had 4 old GSes sitting around.... it was obvious.

It has totally transformed the car. Go anywhere at any speed, overtake without having to wait for a 4km straight, go up hills in top gear....... I enjoy driving it more than (almost) any other car. A BVH DS19 is still more classy, but for km driven without putting a spanner on it, it beats any Dee by far, and for "spirited" country road driving (which is most for me) its so much fun.

This years pre roadworthy inspection tidy up involved:
1 rear wheel bearing was getting a bit rumbly, I replaced it from a spares car.
Top kingpin bushes were a bit rattly, I machined new bushes.
Front crankshaft seal was weeping a bit too much and the oil was finding its way to the brake discs. New Seal.

That's after 28,000 km in the year.

I don't need a priming lever on the fuel pump now!
 
The fuel hose is a braided 'Gates' brand SAE 30R 14T1. It also has 2015 (presumably year of manufacture) and EPA compliant stamped on it. The clamp is on firm but not overly tight.
 
Er, I meant a hose with a stainless over braid, and earthed at that.

Any electrical arcing then goes to ground.

Even if it's not original with HV leads that close, personally I'd fit the belt and braces.

I didn't intend to criticize the work. :)
 
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