Another R17 owner planning to upgrade

your rear springs have to many coils :p

 
Changing the ride height of these cars is going to mess with the passive steering built in and I am not sure the handling is going to improve.

The suspension is designed such that when loaded, body roll is going to induce a lot less passive steering, so the system is self adjusting. Cutting the springs will bring the suspension in this state where passive steering is reduced but without the suspension being compressed because the weight that is supposed to do that isn't there. So you give away roll and the associated grip but don't have the weight to compensate for the loss.

Renault has designed these cars to generate grip by rolling, which shifts a lot of weight on the outer tyre. This is very important in a light car when unloaded. The design may be because of the quality of tyres available at the time, maybe for other reasons. Dunno. But if you reduce roll you better make sure you have a sticky tyre because otherwise you're giving away a lot of grip. Yes, you do have better tyres these days but how the geometry of the suspension is going to make use of them is not clear.
 
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Yes, I have seen your car at Ray's workshop sometime last year and drooled over your engine....and you were well and truly noticed in Bridgetown by quite a few local car people...
I'll drive down again sometime soon. We will meet up sometime. I like to stay at the old pub's down south as I like the old woodwork and staircases with all the history. Their a bit of old dives but good for a short stay. Stay safe!
 
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Slave cylinder leaks. Anyone know the correct part number for these or brand used in 1973 for a TL? I'm up in Perth tomorrow and taking one to Perth Brakes. Hopefully they have stock
 

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Slave cylinder leaks. Anyone know the correct part number for these or brand used in 1973 for a TL? I'm up in Perth tomorrow and taking one to Perth Brakes. Hopefully they have stock

Not sure what brand they are, but if you dismantle the wheel cylinders and look inside the rubbers you will see parts numbers.

Also what is the bore like on the inside of the cylinder? If the cylinder is not to bad you could probably get away with a hone.

The other option is to buy complete replacement slave cylinders.
 
Not sure what brand they are, but if you dismantle the wheel cylinders and look inside the rubbers you will see parts numbers.

Also what is the bore like on the inside of the cylinder? If the cylinder is not to bad you could probably get away with a hone.

The other option is to buy complete replacement slave cylinders.
Thanks COL. I did a hone on these probably two years back. I think they have weeped since then. But I didn't change the seals :(
New complete units I would prefer
 
Thanks COL. I did a hone on these probably two years back. I think they have weeped since then. But I didn't change the seals :(
New complete units I would prefer

I think the rear brakes are the same as found on the Renault R12 wagons which are 9" diameter.
 
If Perth Brake didn't manage to supply the correct size seals (my experience) you cannot go past Power Brakes in Adelaide. They actually know what they are doing.
 
The slave cylinders should hone up ok as long as they are not pitted to badly.
He did hone them with his flash tool. :ROFLMAO: A steel rod with a groove with a bit of sandpaper on the end of a drill. Very technical :jig:
Col, luckily they have been sleeved with stainless. Assembled at home on the table and yes the someone was not impressed with mechanical work being performed in the house :mad: oopsy
Slave Cylinders.jpg
 
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