Another R17 owner planning to upgrade

Dude your car always looked mint. Now it's going to be post-mint? :p
 
I believe another option is to "right click" on the image icon and then press "Show image".
 
I've noticed the same thing John. When browsing threads here on AF, some photos don't show but just the name. Refresh and sometimes they show????
I can see the browser is throwing 403 loading images.. it must be a config error, as R8RX says they appear when you open in a new tab directly.

JohnW, I still see the 404's when replying..

I'll raise this with Gerry / Admins.

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I can see the browser is throwing 403 loading images.. it must be a config error, as R8RX says they appear when you open in a new tab directly.

JohnW, I still see the 404's when replying..

I'll raise this with Gerry / Admins.

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They also show just as text, not even a link.
 

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That looks grouse! I have a rear beam that’s been sandblasted and primed... have all the parts to re-assemble... one day! It better come up as good as that!
You’ve found springs? I realize I didn’t get back to you about any.
 
That looks grouse! I have a rear beam that’s been sandblasted and primed... have all the parts to re-assemble... one day! It better come up as good as that!
You’ve found springs? I realize I didn’t get back to you about any.
Thanks Angru. It's fine, I have been assured that the original springs will be ok by some learned people on here. I'm thinking I might use that
dual wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to add to the base and the top of the springs. It is used on boat trailer wiring and even doubled up to keep the water out. What ya rekon?
For the axle, it was going to be a chore to clean so blasting & powder coating was the answer. Price was good too, as I have used this chap a few times now and I suspect he's happy for a repeat customer.
 
Powder coating is a double edged sword. If not blasted correctly you can still have rust active in the metal and the powder coat layer won't crack and open until all metal underneath is gone. Powder coating also scratches rather easily. I prefer something like the POR15 treatment that reacts with rust to neutralise it.
 
Looking good Shoji. I’ve got a spare rear beam and disc set up hanging in the shed. This is giving me motivation to clean it up and give it a coat of paint while in lockdown!
 
Very nice John. Very nice.

That wasn't a bit of heat-bluing on the inner bearing area of the stub axle was it? I presume not.

There's always a bit of ongoing debate about the pros and cons of powder coating. I'm going to have to research POR 15 now too!
 
Powder coating is a double edged sword. If not blasted correctly you can still have rust active in the metal and the powder coat layer won't crack and open until all metal underneath is gone. Powder coating also scratches rather easily. I prefer something like the POR15 treatment that reacts with rust to neutralise it.
There is no metal just rust :LOL:
 
Very nice, love what you are doing, one of my favourite Renault shapes! Its interesting as I had two 16's (as well as the 15) and they are only 'beautiful' to their mothers, but the 15/17 still looks good today.
 
Very nice John. Very nice.

That wasn't a bit of heat-bluing on the inner bearing area of the stub axle was it? I presume not.

There's always a bit of ongoing debate about the pros and cons of powder coating. I'm going to have to research POR 15 now too!

You don't really need to. There's other options made here, I am just not familiar with them.

POR 15 is a urethane type coating that reacts with water and relies on the idea that no matter how much you clean metals, there's always going to be some residual water left (e.g. sandblasting) and that will continue to be active oxidising your metal. Well, they say that this stuff needs water to react and harden and will suck it out of wherever it can find it. Or that's what I understand. Either way, once you open a can of POR15 you need to use it or it will go hard as a rock just by absorbing moisture in the atmosphere (that I can vouch for) even after you put the lid back on.

From a long experience fighting rust in cars I would say they are right at least about the part that you simply can not take ALL the rust/water out once it is in. You might as well play along then and use a product that uses that water. Powder coating creates a water proof coat so any moisture is forever trapped in. Not a good thing.

That beam is also hollow (pressed metal structure with spot welded bottom) So no matter what you use to coat it on the outside, inside the metal is bare. Now POR 15 make a goo that you can pour in cavities like that and slosh it around until everything is hopefully covered and every nook and cranny filled and creates the same layer as the exterior paint by the same process. They say.

I am sure others closer to home have similar products. POR15 sure is expensive and hard to find in the West so not sure it's the best option for us here but good to know about.
 
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I've had very good results with CRC Rust Neutraliser. It also dries to a hard enamel like finish and is far cheaper and more readily available. If you decant the amount you need to use, the rest of the container has a long shelf life. It is also available in aerosol spray so you can squirt it into areas you can't get your brush.

Henry
 
POR 15 works well I like it and have had it delivered directly to me from the distributer. They have a range of products most of which are excellent. However they are expensive. I decant the amount of paint I need and then replace the lid on the can as quickly as possible using cling film between the can and the lid to prevent the lid permanently sticking to the can should paint have been left on the edge. POR15 when brushed does not leave brush marks. Do not leave it in a spray gun for long else the gun will be a throw away.
I will have to look at CRC Rust Neutraliser.
 
Reassemble started with the axle attached and drums fixed. I was going to try some other spring given to me. They are harder at around 40% flex but shorter. Come from an early commodore. Maybe later I'll try.
Last pic is of the brake line T junction. Can't find any copper crush washer. Does it need it??
Paper off.jpg



Axle assembled.jpg
Hung.jpg
Huing 2.jpg
Attached.jpg
Drum.jpg
Crush washer.jpg
 

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