Another 205 8v thread

Well well,

I ended up buying some cam brake in lube, used about half the bottle since the SAE30 break in oil already has high ZDDP and I didn’t want to kill the cat. It flows like honey so you’ve got time to crank the car before it drains back down.

Quarter of the bottle, cold crank with no spark and about 20 seconds later I was getting oil to the head…and down the back of the engine. I quickly learnt that the rocker cover serves the dual purpose of keeping oil in, and holding the spray bar in position so it needs to be pretty tight.

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Matthew came over today for its first start. Poured on another quarter of a bottle of break in lube.

Took maybe 5 seconds and she started with oil pressure at the 3/4 line @2000 (it would sit around 1/2 before, so the 6bar spring is doing its job, thank you Matt).

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Held it between 2000-3000rpm for a good while before we were confident we could take it for a test run. Got to the first hill and immediately it started pinging so I took it straight back.

Cue: “I told you so”. I expected as much as it had old 95 fuel and I had the dizzy set to whatever alignment was stamped in.

I don’t want to have to suck the fuel out so might give octane booster a go first. A timing light is in order too.

All in all a successful day. No fires and it started first go, apart from forgetting to connect the AFM to begin with.
 
Well done, great news. I’d be getting rid of the fuel in the tank. Hook up a hose from the fuel filter into drum and hot wire the pump. It’s been in there way too long. You’ll only be chasing your tail trying to tune it. It’s impossible to get last 5-10L out anyway.
 
And new o rings for the oil distribution bar in the head are in order,
 
Roger that Peter.

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In the interest of safety, I controlled the pump with a switch and a computer power supply which gives a common ground. In theory, I can avoid static buildup while I hold the jerry can in the air, wearing thongs and tennis shorts.

My only issue now is to try and find someone who will willingly put 40L of 6-month old petrol in their car/mower, else store it safely. Once my mate comes out of isolation he is happy to put it in his hilux.

One thing that was immediately obvious is the rough idle. Set to above 1000rpm its pretty steady, but it still had a tendency to die if you give it quick jabs of the throttle, such as slipping the clutch doing a slow manoeuvre. This was always an issue before the wilder cam and I never found out why. I always just set the idle above 1000 and played with the AFM screw to stop it diving too far. Is this an inherent Jetronic flaw with its lack of feedback-control, or is it just the AFM flap going erratic from the pulses of airflow from the TB.
 
I just usually hot wire the pump fuse under the glovebox, but I do wear shoes. Lol, that is a lot of mower fuel. My Patrol would slurp it up quickly.

I think 1000 will be your new idle speed. The symptom described sounds like the idle mixture is too lean. Does the Jetronic AFM have an idle mixture screw?
 
A bit of light reading of the Jetronic technical instruction says it does the same thing as the Motronic one - controls air bypass for idle.

Speeduino have just got another batch of their Dropbear ECU. Very tempting, it comes out at about $550 AUD. More than half the price of an equivalent Haltech or Link, but Im wondering if its worth it in terms of finding a decent tuner that deals with Tunerstudio, and the other fiddly things with DIY ECUs.

It still seems like good value, even just to get mapped ignition up and running with an Si coilpack. I already have a motronic flywheel and sensor installed. Regraphing is $110 if they can do it through the window or $220 if they need to strip it.
 
Better yet DIY speeduino works out half of that again! I am dreaming of a moving injection angle against idle with PID to keep it nice and steady. Will work for you as well. If your really keen an PCB to fit your ECU case and no one is any wiser. As an example for my xu9j4 project into the original box even using original heatsinks etc
 

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flock said:
A bit of light reading of the Jetronic technical instruction says it does the same thing as the Motronic one - controls air bypass for idle.

Speeduino have just got another batch of their Dropbear ECU. Very tempting, it comes out at about $550 AUD. More than half the price of an equivalent Haltech or Link, but Im wondering if its worth it in terms of finding a decent tuner that deals with Tunerstudio, and the other fiddly things with DIY ECUs.

It still seems like good value, even just to get mapped ignition up and running with an Si coilpack. I already have a motronic flywheel and sensor installed. Regraphing is $110 if they can do it through the window or $220 if they need to strip it.
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Tuner Studio on my Megasquirt is excellent, can't image anyone having any trouble with it.
 
The dizzy has been long time coming. The rotor was seized to the shaft, and the fibre washers are no longer available so the shop had to do some machining to make it fit. Then the floods came and that pushed them back 2 weeks. Hopefully see it by the end of the week.

I was about to drop off my injectors to get overhauled, only to find I have 2 different sets of injectors and 2 different fuel regulators. All parts came from DFZs.

The part numbers are:

0 280 150 725 - Injector, 172.4cc/min @ 2.5bar, (part no. matches- 505 ZDJL)
0 280 150 734 - Injector, 200cc/min @ 2.5bar (part no. matches- 205 XU9J1 and 405 XU9J2)

I'm unsure what people mean by yellow, green and black injectors as both of mine have a mixture of all 3. Both injectors have a yellow ring above the Viton seal, but the pintle cap is yellow on the 725 and green on 734. Both plastic bodies are black.

0 280 160 227 - FPR, 2.5Bar (part no. matches- 405 XU9J2)
0 280 160 257 - FPR, 2.5Bar, (part no. matches- 205 XU9J1, 405 XU9J2, 505 ZDJL .
Both regulators look identical

I have been running the 172cc/min injectors AFAIK for the entire time I have owned the car, which seems to be inadequate for the stock DFZ. The 200cc injectors are from the Series 1 DFZ and have 100k less wear on them so I was planning on rebuilding them anyway. I thought the car always ran rich though, by the fuel economy and blackness on the plugs, but that may have been oil gunk.

I assume people who have done this head swap before with no other serious mods just used standard DFZ injectors and fuel pressure regulators ?
 
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I've only ever seen 0 280 150 725 in DFZ's. Mi16 1.9L have 0 280 150 762 which are 214cc/min. Mi16 2.0L have 0 280 150 423 which are 196cc/min. The only way to confirm is to fit a wideband O2 sensor.
 
Are you sure 725? From the Bosch parts interpreter it just lists the 505, a Volvo 760, some Nissans and Holdens. It doesn't come up in any cross references on AF or Drivers except for one person's reply:

black ones(1.6 & 1.9):
a. (0 280 150 725) -195cc/min at 3 bars
c. (0 280 150 734) -203cc/min sous 2,5bars

Online injector tables are all over the place. Some list all flows @ 3 bar, some list @ rated, and some tables give both values. All vary.

You're right though, rather than get carried away with flow rates I should just chuck a wideband in. Better yet I should find one that also simulates lambda output like the Spartan 2.
 
I have a Spartan 2. Trying to buy a Spartan at the moment for Parrys race car and they are on back order. Meant to be available by the end of April.
 
I spoke to a dealer here. He advised not to bother with the spartan 2 as they are apparently too slow (sub 150ms) and they are just running down their stock to make way for their newer spartan 3 (sub 10ms response).

The kicker with the spartan 3 is it’s no longer waterproof, and has exposed screw connectors which are never good in environments with vibration. So basically it can only live in the cabin.
 
With the EFI system on the 205, 150ms is fine. We connect it directly to the race technology data dash and logging. The fuel maps are not that accurate on an old Bosch injection system anyway.
We are waiting for a Spartan 3 but in the mean time i am fitting the 2 to his car. We will verify how good it is on the dyno shortly.
 
Picked up the goodies yesterday. Unfortunately the vacuum advance diaphragms on both dizzys I have him are leaky so they don’t work. It’s not worth finding another one and then reassembling at this time so I’ll live with the hit to economy for a while.

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Now I need a timing light.
 
They were hard to come by. Are they still available?
 
That would be my excuse to fit an aftermarket ECU.
 
The limitation of your build, is of course the distributor. In the attached file, you can see the difference between the mechanical advance of the DFZ dizzy, compared to what's actually required.
 

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