Tool Talk

G'day Shane,

maybe cos it's a USA one......

We all got cheesed off with battery stuff, especially with the 9v makitas that cost you heaps and the batteries were more than a new drill - that's why I got the plug-in makita screwdriver, much the same price at the time but ten times the machine.

Picked up a dynalink 18v a while back at a price too good to refuse though, can't help myself sometimes. But this little sucker does a inch and a quarter holesaw job though 32mm MDF without even slowing down - they're getting better, and that's a chinese one ....

cheers,
Bob
 
I did a similar thing for 3/4 drive air ratchet, in the "surplus bin" for $12 and it looks quite good quality.

Do you think normal 3/4 drive Kinchrome sockets would be OK to use for light duty use?

Kinchrome sockets are fine for llight duty use.
The intended use of the air ratchet is for the removal of the fastener, after it has been loosened, unless you know the torque of the fastener to be low initially.

I am assuming you are using the " standard " chromed 12 point socket or bihexagonal as I am see them refered to in tool cattle dogs these days.
Single hex sockets are my prefered weapon these days.
 
Kinchrome sockets are fine for llight duty use.
The intended use of the air ratchet is for the removal of the fastener, after it has been loosened, unless you know the torque of the fastener to be low initially.

I am assuming you are using the " standard " chromed 12 point socket or bihexagonal as I am see them refered to in tool cattle dogs these days.
Single hex sockets are my prefered weapon these days.

I might just buy some cheap hex sockets to use with the air ratchet
The intended use is to speed up disassembly of old engines prior to hot bathing.

It's amazing how much faster it is using air tools.

As you have probably gathered it 3/8 drive not 3/4 as posted
 
Thread Chasers - old style

Does anyone have a source for metric thread chasers, the old style type ?
By that I mean the hand held, separate internal and external thread type with a handle, or in the case of external thread sometimes a square shank for mounting in a lathe ?

There were some made by Eclipse many years ago and I've managed to strike a few Imperial and Whitwirth threaded varieties, but metric is not so simple.

Their intended use is for metal and precision is required.

I'll try and dig up an image to illustrate the type I am seeking.

2lszfj7.jpg


Thanks.
 
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I might just buy some cheap hex sockets to use with the air ratchet
The intended use is to speed up disassembly of old engines prior to hot bathing.

It's amazing how much faster it is using air tools.

As you have probably gathered it 3/8 drive not 3/4 as posted

I've found the air hose gets in the way to much. Having said that for something like pulling the nose off a GS they are brilliant. The one I have works as a "standard" ratchet... So you do the initial few ratchets yourself to loosen the fastener, then the air driven bit will unscrew the remainder of the fastener. Mines a 1/2" air ratchet. It's lived in the toolbox for years, it's simply to big and unwieldy to be bothered with. My grandfather (who was a mechanic for decades) said the 3/8ths are the best. Get one that's nice an physically small.

If you check your socket set, you'll find the 1/4" stuff is single hex, I always use this in preference. All the impact sockets are generally single hex as well, but often to big and bulky compared to thin wall kinchrome/sidchrome. Your existing sockets will be fine, they have very little torque and only loosen fasteners that aren't tight.

seeya
Shane L.
 
makita cordless drills

I'll have to agree with double chevron- I have the 18V version of theMakita Cordless drill- the 8391D. It is nothing short of brilliant.:headbang: Cost was about $289 NZ, and it gets heavy home and work use- work use we use it to drill in anything up to 10mm dynabolts into concrete! My workmate was sceptical too- until he used mine- we got another and it's been just as good. Also the two batteries last a good amount of time, so as long as you are fully charged when you go on site- you don't run out.

We got sick of buying the cheapo- $99 buck jobs from bunnings - this thing has enough grunt that we don't even bother taking the conventional electric drill with us to installations! Often use it all day on tek screwing- the two speed gearbox is a big plus too.

FWIW- mine says it's made in China- what isn't these days!

only gripe is sometimes it gets 'stuck' between gears- and you have to flick it into forward and reverse then it's fine, other than that it's been great.:confused:
 
this one has a 3 speed gearbox, variable speed drive (electronic/trigger)... also a secondary gearbox that allows section of clutched screwdriver (with variable settings), drill (no clutch slip) and hammer. It takes a bit to impress me, but this thing is as good as suggested.

I think I'd still prefer a proper corded drill for drilling of "mass" holes, you see this type of work is requires constant power, you may run out of battery charge to quickly :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
Taig Lathe

G'day,

not much use in the motor trade 'spose, unless you want to clean up a needle & seat, and who'd bother ? new ones are cheap as chips.

This little sucker is for model makers & horologists etc. Made in the USA and offered as a kit:
http://taig.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=7
Local price is way too good to refuse. Just finished getting the basic animal together - the kit requires a bit of lapping and fitting.

Now need to set up a drive motor & belts plus a little stand. The board it's sitting on in the pix was only for assembly purposes.

Specs here:
http://taig.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=3&chapter=5

cheers,
Bob
 

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G'day,

not much use in the motor trade 'spose, unless you want to clean up a needle & seat, and who'd bother ? new ones are cheap as chips.

This little sucker is for model makers & horologists etc. Made in the USA and offered as a kit:
http://taig.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=7
Local price is way too good to refuse. Just finished getting the basic animal together - the kit requires a bit of lapping and fitting.

Now need to set up a drive motor & belts plus a little stand. The board it's sitting on in the pix was only for assembly purposes.

Specs here:
http://taig.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=3&chapter=5

cheers,
Bob

That's great. What do you make with small lathes like that? Can you rotate the cross slide bed so the slide winds in and out on an angle? (eg: cutting small tapers).

seeya,
Shane L.
 
I'll have to agree with double chevron- I have the 18V version of theMakita Cordless drill- the 8391D. It is nothing short of brilliant.:headbang: Cost was about $289 NZ, and it gets heavy home and work use- work use we use it to drill in anything up to 10mm dynabolts into concrete! My workmate was sceptical too- until he used mine- we got another and it's been just as good. Also the two batteries last a good amount of time, so as long as you are fully charged when you go on site- you don't run out.

We got sick of buying the cheapo- $99 buck jobs from bunnings - this thing has enough grunt that we don't even bother taking the conventional electric drill with us to installations! Often use it all day on tek screwing- the two speed gearbox is a big plus too.

FWIW- mine says it's made in China- what isn't these days!

only gripe is sometimes it gets 'stuck' between gears- and you have to flick it into forward and reverse then it's fine, other than that it's been great.:confused:

My parents got me this drill for my birthday (18volt makita). Made in china .... it's a bloody ripper :dance: (my father probably figured the only way to get his own drill back was to buy me one :roflmao: ). The 12volt version doesn't seem any gruntier, however the batteries must last 4times as long as the 12volt version :) I'm amazed by the battery life on the 18volt one.

seeya
Shane L.
 
My 18v Makita had been sitting in storage for a year while we were OS. I brought it up here and started using it on the car, without charging. It has been going for a month now. I've no idea why I bought the second battery. When it eventually needs charging, it will take twenty minutes.

That's the little one. The big 1/2" drive rattle gun will undo ANYTHING - crankshaft bolts, hub nuts, driveshafts, you name it. It's a bit brutal though. More Kenworth than Peugeot.

Air tools are redundant.

Tim
 
Boats, pools and ....lathes

Finally I've found a lathe too, Bob.
A mate, also a fellow fuego tragic has a retired dad with the best little den.
attachment.php



A great feature of this lath is it location (elsewhere) and it comes with an operator skilled in its use.
Here are my PS pump spacers being fabricated from alloy bar.
Too easy.:approve:

Jo
 

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Finally I've found a lathe too, Bob.
A mate, also a fellow fuego tragic has a retired dad with the best little den.
attachment.php



A great feature of this lath is it location (elsewhere) and it comes with an operator skilled in its use.
Here are my PS pump spacers being fabricated from alloy bar.
Too easy.:approve:

Jo

What a ripper!!!! You tried to buy it from him right ???
 
What a ripper!!!! You tried to buy it from him right ???

:roflmao:
I think you missed my point Shane.

Like a boat and a swimming pool, they are best when someone else owns and operates them and and i just swan in for the good times without having to deal with all the maintenence and skill set required to run the beast.

The amount of custom lathe work i do is minuscule, and reserved for times like now when I'm doing a once in 5 year major restructure of the drive train.

I do also have a master machinist on my books, who likes my silly curly real metal jobs i offer him. He likes getting his hands dirty like he did in the 'old days and it offers him some variety from CNC'ing artificial heart valves out of plastic.
Things like re sleeving the R25 wishbone tubes to fit a thinner fuego bolt got him thinking and using his old world skills, and I must say he did a sterling job and charged me peanuts at the end. I think a heart valve replacement recipient might have subsidised that job.:D

Jo
 
G'day Shane,

That's great. What do you make with small lathes like that? Can you rotate the cross slide bed so the slide winds in and out on an angle? (eg: cutting small tapers).

seeya,
Shane L.

pursue other interests, model railways, eventually outside in the garden...... :)

There is a separate topslide for tapers, most people leave it off unless really required as it restricts the operating area - also possible to turn lonnnng tapers between centres by moving the tailstock over, or disconnecting the cross slide feed and using a jig to feed it relative to the saddle position.

Need to chase up a small motor for it, something around 300w. Current enquiries suggest it's cheaper to buy a little Chinese bench drill and use it's motor than buy a new separate motor !

cheers,
Bob
 
:roflmao:
I think you missed my point Shane.

Like a boat and a swimming pool, they are best when someone else owns and operates them and and i just swan in for the good times without having to deal with all the maintenence and skill set required to run the beast.

The amount of custom lathe work i do is minuscule, and reserved for times like now when I'm doing a once in 5 year major restructure of the drive train.

I do also have a master machinist on my books, who likes my silly curly real metal jobs i offer him. He likes getting his hands dirty like he did in the 'old days and it offers him some variety from CNC'ing artificial heart valves out of plastic.
Things like re sleeving the R25 wishbone tubes to fit a thinner fuego bolt got him thinking and using his old world skills, and I must say he did a sterling job and charged me peanuts at the end. I think a heart valve replacement recipient might have subsidised that job.:D

Jo

I know exactly what you meant .... still I'd be itching to get my hands on that lathe and tinker ......... :evil: Boats .... Do you mean something like this ??

attachment.php


attachment.php



My brother purchased this a few weeks back. He's bloody estatic about it. The idea of sitting in a boat bored out of my brains hoping some fish might bite so I have something to do would be enough to drive you to drink ............ Lots of it :adrink: He's over the moon about it though, I've been shown over it in detail, under floor fuel tanks, fish finders, engine pod, live bait tanks etc.... :yawn: We should get him interested in something exciting like DS19's or something :clown: He reckons it's bloody fast and stable after his little fishing boat though.

Now sailing.... that's something that could interest me ... You have something to do!

Dunno why he'd buy something that doesn't fit in his yard though.... The trouble with having a little space around is everyone want to keep there sh1t at your place :) My parents want to keep there caravan down here too. I'm going to put gates into the paddock so big stuff can go over there rather than next to the house.

seeya,
Shane L.
 

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G'day Shane,



pursue other interests, model railways, eventually outside in the garden...... :)

There is a separate topslide for tapers, most people leave it off unless really required as it restricts the operating area - also possible to turn lonnnng tapers between centres by moving the tailstock over, or disconnecting the cross slide feed and using a jig to feed it relative to the saddle position.

Need to chase up a small motor for it, something around 300w. Current enquiries suggest it's cheaper to buy a little Chinese bench drill and use it's motor than buy a new separate motor !

cheers,
Bob

You know about the oztion seller right ??? I'll have to arrange to get some stuff from him I imagine :)

http://www.quicksales.com.au/Business/Industrial/Metal/auctions/490.aspx

lots of offcuts for machining galore :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 
10mm square nut spanner

10mm square nut spanner for undoing gear box drain plugs.

I want/need one, but dont know where to get it from.

Any suggestions?????



Jo

PS I'm not talking about a flair nut spanner, i mean a full box 10mm square
 
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