Tool Talk

Totally scrounged except for the pressure regulator. Compressor unit and controller from my late uncle, yes probably ex a shop fridge, then a trip to the railway reclamation depot to collect a Century repulsion/induction motor, an iron window frame, couple of cast wheels [with 'VR' as the spokes] and old carriage brake reservoir.
Being a kid the guys at the reclamation depot just about 'gave' you whatever you wanted, a proper treasure trove that place, all gone now of course.....
Bob
 
bob said:
Totally scrounged except for the pressure regulator. Compressor unit and controller from my late uncle, yes probably ex a shop fridge, then a trip to the railway reclamation depot to collect a Century repulsion/induction motor, an iron window frame, couple of cast wheels [with 'VR' as the spokes] and old carriage brake reservoir.
Being a kid the guys at the reclamation depot just about 'gave' you whatever you wanted, a proper treasure trove that place, all gone now of course.....
Bob
Click to expand...
Fond memories of the Telecom reclamation area for the same reason, all sorts of goodies to support community projects, scouts and other organisations and even police operational projects. Mutual assistance at no cost and as much telephone wire and exchange stuff to make up any dream thing, field telephones you name it. Those were the days.

Ken
 
AlexB said:
Switching on/off at the wall plug only works if your compressor tank leaks....
If it didn't leak you have a higher chance of the motor stalling and you'll likely hear the wall switch buzzing as it draws maximum amps when you turn it on.

When you push the red knob down it forces the pressure switch contacts to separate and a lever then actuates the pressure switch relief valve to relieve the pressure that was trapped between the pump and check valve so the motor won't stall when you turn it back on.
This is the hiss you hear when pressure switch actuates.
Click to expand...

Its only going to turn on if the pressure has dropped down to the pressure switch cut-in pressure (which is the load it will always start against unless empty and off). it will never start under full pressure as the pressure switch is there.
 
Anyone have 3phase ?

balancer.jpg


have a look on top of it .... the attachment all the tyre shops reckon they don't have!

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I've got 3 phase, but what would I do with it? I couldn't even get it into my work area.
 
Fortunately my cars, like my work clothes, have large holes!
(And the local tyre shop doesn't charge me for balancing)
 
better to achieve a mechanical joint first, the solder just permanently sets the joint.... :)
Bob
 
Solder in cars should never be under mechanical strain. I use it everywhere as it gives you a good 100% joint ( I don't own good enough crimps and crimpers to make 100% reliable joints).
 
Neural and Chevron are right. It was always emphasised to us, in a former life, that solder is only intended to provide a good electrical connection. This is contrary to what many TV experts espouse. With only solder to rely on, and with all the vibration, etc in cars, you'd have to have a lot of faith in your soldering ability.
 
Peter C said:
Neural and Chevron are right. It was always emphasised to us, in a former life, that solder is only intended to provide a good electrical connection. This is contrary to what many TV experts espouse. With only solder to rely on, and with all the vibration, etc in cars, you'd have to have a lot of faith in your soldering ability.
Click to expand...
vibrations and stuff? The solder will hold up fine, the wires will break at the side of the soldered joint where they can't flex though
 
Strain relief. That too. I was thinking of poor adhesion due to poor soldering as well.
 
found this little gem in the bookshelf....
www.dropbox.com

3WayWelder.pdf

Shared with Dropbox
www.dropbox.com www.dropbox.com
from Popular Mechanics, June 1962.
hmmm... USD 15... 1962, reckon I was getting £6 a week as a lad labourer !!

Bob
 
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Plutocrat. That year my white collar job brought in 9 pounds per fortnight.
 
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Re soldering: re mechanical strength, my experience is that if you solder wires together as per the image in Shane's image, and then try to pull the joint apart, the wires snap, rather than the joint.
Anyway this is my cheap ass alternative to the tool shown
solder helper.jpg
 
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I guess the photo doesn't add much but these new acquisitions are gearless ratchets.
They claim to have a minimum turning arc of <1deg.
And I am sure we've all been in THAT situation on occasions where such a device would have been very handy indeed.
gearless ratchet.jpg
 
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