Here we go. It's more rough and ready than I'd realised but the curves and the fin are nice. It's practically hand-made!
Sand casting unobtainium parts at home.
- Thread starter 56 Fregate
- Start date
Noice! I'll be casting my basal plane as absolutely flat because it's easier to do it that way. I'll then make the hyperbol shapes to match yours at the linishing stage, on a bench sander. Thankyou for the assistance. 
A bit of back tracking. Back in post #86 I cast two hollow alloy shells, this is what had become of them after I had my way with them. Nickle plated and ready for action.
Shame about the use of philips screws tho.
Shame about the use of philips screws tho.
I think I've got much the same horns on my old Harley.
I always found the same problem when I was playing with1920s cars, modern fasteners don't really "blend" in.
I use to use slotted brass pan head screws where I could, and also found that stainless button head screws with the recessed square drive head seemed to look at more at home than what Phillips screws do.
You can also get small metric screws with a square head in stainless, these look the part too once you linish the writing off the head of the bolt.
I always found the same problem when I was playing with1920s cars, modern fasteners don't really "blend" in.
I use to use slotted brass pan head screws where I could, and also found that stainless button head screws with the recessed square drive head seemed to look at more at home than what Phillips screws do.
You can also get small metric screws with a square head in stainless, these look the part too once you linish the writing off the head of the bolt.
Just as a casual observer I wonder why they would put all those curves in an area where the only person that would ever see them would either be laying under it, or a maybe a mechanic with the car on a hoist.
I can't help but notice the way all the curves run resemble what would happen if the item had a fairly flat bottom edge and then the driver reversed into something and pushed it a bit out of shape.
Has anyone seen another one of these to compare it to in this area?
Not trying to be a wet blanket, but it would be a shame to put all that effort into copying something that may have been deformed in some way.
There are philistines and there are those delighted by an array of perfectly aligned slotted screw heads on a timber sailboat deck or enticed by the subtle dance of French curves that make a hidden utilitarian component into a beautiful sculpture.
...I wish I'd said that
Perhaps available commercially and used fully exposed in an earlier model?Just as a casual observer I wonder why they would put all those curves in an area where the only person that would ever see them would either be laying under it, or a maybe a mechanic with the car on a hoist.
I can't help but notice the way all the curves run resemble what would happen if the item had a fairly flat bottom edge and then the driver reversed into something and pushed it a bit out of shape.
Has anyone seen another one of these to compare it to in this area?
Not trying to be a wet blanket, but it would be a shame to put all that effort into copying something that may have been deformed in some way.
At the very least it’s hand finished by someone proud of their work.
Yes, that's right. It's a lovely thing.
Gee that went down the wrong way.
I wasn't criticising John's part in any way shape or form, just asking if anyone had seen another to compare it to. John's does look like it has had some contact on that back edge.
If the hidden curves are meant to be there well and good. If the exhaust is going to be at shin height you probably won't notice it either way.
I wasn't criticising John's part in any way shape or form, just asking if anyone had seen another to compare it to. John's does look like it has had some contact on that back edge.
If the hidden curves are meant to be there well and good. If the exhaust is going to be at shin height you probably won't notice it either way.
Oh, I was just making a general observation.
Greenpeace is quite right that the object of our admiration may be not in pristine condition but I would be more surprised if the original items were all precisely identical straight from the manufacturer.
Greenpeace is quite right that the object of our admiration may be not in pristine condition but I would be more surprised if the original items were all precisely identical straight from the manufacturer.
My next problem is how I'm gonna reproduce the logo.
You've all seen my work, I spend my time making good parts look shitty, so I would be the last person to critique something that's less than perfect.
I only mentioned the shape because Fregate is doing the opposite. The tribute car he is building is to a high standard, trying to replicate period parts as they were when new "back in the day".
You have also at times made shitty parts look good.You've all seen my work, I spend my time making good parts look shitty, so I would be the last person to critique something that's less than perfect.
I only mentioned the shape because Fregate is doing the opposite. The tribute car he is building is to a high standard, trying to replicate period parts as they were when new "back in the day".
Shouldn't share all my secrets, but in the distant past I've guilty of attempting to make new modern parts look more correct on old vehicles.
I've removed Phillips and Allen screws from non structural items that I don't ever plan on pulling apart. Drill the screw holes to neatly accept the chosen diameter of nickel bifurcated rivets, trim the rivet length if need be, break out the Loctite red, coat the rivets and lightly clamp it all together for a few hours.
They look cool, the nickel finish is vintage correct, they aren't ever going to come apart in cosmetic applications, but you can still drill the rivets out if you really need to get back in there.
I've removed Phillips and Allen screws from non structural items that I don't ever plan on pulling apart. Drill the screw holes to neatly accept the chosen diameter of nickel bifurcated rivets, trim the rivet length if need be, break out the Loctite red, coat the rivets and lightly clamp it all together for a few hours.
They look cool, the nickel finish is vintage correct, they aren't ever going to come apart in cosmetic applications, but you can still drill the rivets out if you really need to get back in there.
I could send you a cake of soap.
Thanks for the offer of soap but I reckon I'll try a deep acid etching such as below. I have only attempted deep acid etching once so it might be time for another go.
Or alternately I could find someone with a CNC engraver
Or alternately I could find someone with a CNC engraver
I blew the frost off New England this morning and did another couple of castings. This is the exhaust deflector from a few posts back. As advised I made the bottom plane flat, just to make it easy. When I get time I'll reshape the necessary areas to add a bit of french style and linish it to a fine polish. Like Michelangelo who when asked how he made David said, "I just started with a block of marble and removed all the bits that weren't David", I'll do the same to reach the final shape and form. Then I'll add the logo by acid etching.
