Here’s a few quick pics of her on the Fb group - https://www.facebook.com/groups/10181680435/permalink/10165514096880436/
S16 Rebuild
- Thread starter Mingus
- Start date
Can you just warm up the engine driving around and when the problem appears pull over and check suspected solenoids visually to see if they open the pods or not? An under bonnet camera would be good.
Yeah I’ve driven it around and done that and the pods don’t move when it’s hot (and running). I can test it visually by moving the throttle in the engine bay and seeing nothing happen. The solenoid let’s vacuum into the tubes going to the pods thus sucking the diaphragms inside which moves the butterflies in the inlet. It’s weird engineering haha.
What I found on the Mi16 when it had this problem was that the plastic spigot on the pods was sheared flush at the base under the connecting hose but it was still hanging on in place, so difficult to see. NLA, so I inserted a length of brass tube through the spigot and into the pod just enough that it would stay, a gentle press fit and then siliconed around the outside. Worked fine after that. I think those connecting hoses get hard in time and start to put some strain on the spigot and eventually fatigue them.
Yeah you’re right - the hoses get hard and the plastic gets brittle - I’ve learned never to attempt to pull them off the pods because you’ll likely snap the spigot. Only remove them at the little t junction. In this case though that stuff isn’t a factor. The pods are fine and work as they should when the car is below 90c - they are sealed and I’ve inspected and reinforced them. It’s something else. I’ll have some time tomorrow night to investigate further.
Peter, the solenoid is actuator to toggle the butterflies at certain rpm ranges so if I bypassed it it would be letting in more air at the wrong rpm ranges and maybe give bad results in a different range.
My understanding is the solenoid opens at 1k-4k, which closes the butterfly valves on the shorter intake. By just using the longe intake at low revs, more torque is gained down low. If the solenoid is not working, the full intake is always open. Good up high, but loss of torque down low.
If the solenoid is bypassed, the shorter intake will always be closed, which reduces top end power.
If the solenoid is bypassed, the shorter intake will always be closed, which reduces top end power.
Ahh great news.
The chip makes it sound fatter at idle I found. It makes a big difference everywhere. The stock chip tries to follow 14s on fuel al the time. The chip fattens it up a lot and get things moving.
The pads shouldn't be to chronic, just go gentle to get your confidence up.
The chip makes it sound fatter at idle I found. It makes a big difference everywhere. The stock chip tries to follow 14s on fuel al the time. The chip fattens it up a lot and get things moving.
The pads shouldn't be to chronic, just go gentle to get your confidence up.
The solenoid is actually open on the short manifold at idle and instantly closes to the long manifold as soon as its off idle and reopens at 5000rpm. You can actually really feel/hear it ipen with the engine mods/chip you have just completed.
Perhaps I worded it the wrong way; but that's what I meant. The full intake is open at idle, immediately actuates at ~1k, then returns to full open at ~4k and above. But if the solenoid was bypassed, and vacuum was allowed to constantly affect the pods, the intake would never return to full open. I feel like I'm just preaching to the choir, so I'll back to reading!!
What do you mean?
Heheh thanks guys. Looks like the solenoid is up the duff, and my spare in 6 hrs drive away... anyone have one? They’re impossible to refurbish. You can’t really even get into it without destroying it.
I can get it to click/open maybe once every five minutes off the car with a battery and some alligator clips. Once it clicks it won’t open again despite how many times I prod the terminal with power! Don’t know what that means but I know the touch the throttle more than once every five minutes when driving hahah.
Sweet! I didn’t know if that was still going down. Mighty stuff.
Check this gang. It explains it well.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/10181680435/permalink/10165521834575436/
Confirmed with the engine fault code (only one) using the “short the green plug and count the engine flashes on the dash method”. Code 25, which is the variable induction solenoid valve error. Yep, need a new electro valve...