S16 Rebuild

Okay. I've been quiet on here for a bit but it's all a lie, because in actual fact, lots has happened.

Cleaned out the bay. Even took out the lower subframe completely to clean it and around the PS ram, installed new "P" bushes on my track arms (getting those things off were a bastard until the grinder came out). I have one that may have been knocked in a couple of extra mm but I' gathering it'll be okay as there's some room to move there.

Another bastard was the rear engine mount. I even had to devise a little jig with a cavity to press the new one in without pressing on the inner area. I took it to a guy originally and he said he wouldn't touch aluminum as it shatters....? Got there in the end on my own, even after bending the g-clamp rotating rod.

Installed big end bearings, new pistons (ring gap good), clutch plate, etc. By the way, what's with the manual using that crazy shim alignment device to install the first main cap? I understand the hockey seals are meant to be pressed super tight but surely you can slide it into place and use a bit of sealant?? Anyway, fingers crossed it's sealed well.

I torqued up the head today. 7dA + 160 degrees. Geeez it's tight. Had the extension bar on it. There was a bit of a debacle about the E14 female torx bit. I bought one that wouldn't fit down the cavity, so at first I felt out a 11mm metric on it for a bit. Worked until about 90 degrees on stage 3 and pssssssssss, I started to distort the head of the bolt. Forked out $60 for the set to use the one socket. Oh well. But, success. No snapped bolts or even creaking! It's really nerve racking.

Did up the cam caps and fitted the new seals. I gathered on the 1st and 5th sealant is required (where the rocket cover doesn't sit over it?). I forgot if my original had sealant remains there. One quick question. I have the paper gasket for the vacuum pump thing on the side of the head, but no gasket for the water distributor. Does it exist or is it just a sealant job too?

Anyway, will upload some photos soon. 11902520_10153934271154179_4436746036543173723_n.jpg
 
Oh no! I may have a potentially devastating problem. After re-reading one of the threads on here tonight, I've just realised I didn't correctly ascertain my piston valve pockets, meaning I may have pistons incorrectly installed in various directions. I understand the pocket valves for the intake and exhaust are slightly different depths and angles (see above sheet) but perhaps it may not matter given some tolerance/clearance on a standard cam and only 3thou taken off deck and head. Thoughts on what to do next? My father tends to think it will be fine but will have less safety if the timing belt where to jump ever (also given this block can take various heads). Rotate by hand and ensure no contact (with perhaps the option of purposely seeing how many teeth it can jump till contact occurs...).

I'm interested in finding out what could happen and what effect it would have. Theories - LAY EM ON!

It would be almost be a deal breaker to have to re-install everything again. Oh my. So worrying.
 
No arrow marker on piston dome?

One sure way to check is to see which way is the wrist pin offset. If it is, that is. If it is, it's always towards the thrust side.
 
The wiseco's aren't marked like the stock pistons. You have to analyse the pocket depth which looks near identical. I should have read more! I don't think they're offset. I think they're central.

What I'm asking is, will I have to undo everything, or is it possible to go ahead, and if so, what are the effects....
 
Wiseco's are symmetrical, so no problem other than possible valve to piston contact, either vertically or radially. More likely radially, as the pocket diameters are different. I'd pull the head off and check if it were mine.

No gasket, just smear on some Threebond 1211.
 
Find someone with a borescope and inspect via a spark plug hole rather than tearing the thing apart. I know that pain, I did it with my 8v.
 
Okay. Bought an inspection camera - no contact, and all pistons installed correctly! What a stroke of luck. What are the odds of installing them all the same. I must have been following some sort of pattern... I even recorded the valve to piston clearance. I'll try compress them and show you them as we rotated the crank.

Everything is go go go! Okay, what's holding me up now is bloody spark plug oil seals that were rock hard and leaking. I'm hoping I can go get some locally from a seal place. They're pretty generic, but depth and diameter may thwart me. I have a quick question. I can't for the life of me remember what this is from... Gearbox related. It seems so familiar and I feel like I should really remember it.

Memories?11888099_10153941753674179_5513822523342812807_n.jpg11899968_10153941753699179_6710761000322951457_n.jpg
 
Spark plug oil seals are 30x40x8. why do I know this? Because I'm about to order some to be made - mine were crusty too and are leaking. There is a minimum purchase cost with the seal maker, I should hear back on prices tomorrow. Keen for a buy in? They're nla from Peugeot.

Lucky with the pistons, perhaps your subconscious was paying attention. Aren't you glad you didn't rip the head off?!
 
Hey Chez, I sure am!

I called my local statewide bearings (down here in Wollongong) and he has 40x30x7 so I think they'll work okay. I'm guessing it will compress the rubber being only 7mm, and if its not tight enough, there may be a way to bulk it up. They can handle temps up to 120 degrees. I've got to get a move on with dropping her in, so will I'm just going to go with that. They say there's a place in Wingfield ins SA. Is that near you?
 
Seals

Actually chez it turned out to be a hoax. The guy thought I meant an oil seal not a solid rubber seal. I may need to jump in to your purchase. Any timeframe and cost info yet?
 
Just got a quote back - $17ea in Nitrile. Viton were nearly $40ea - not interested.
I've ordered 3 sets. They'll be ready on thursday at the latest. I can express post some up to you and you should get them friday if you're interested.
 
I bit the bullet yesterday and purchased the vitron oil seals for $9 each and torqued it all up. I reckon it'll work just fine. Time will tell in a couple of weeks and I'll come a knocking chez. By then I imagine the price would have gone up hey chez!

Got the bastard in last night. A bit of a nightmare to start with. My dad started to lift it and snapped the cam sensor as he chose some awkward rigging. (Back gearbox loop and not both). Also I was adamant it wasn't right as it wasn't level, which made for a tough work on the left mount. Anyway she's sitting on her own. Proud moment!

Uploaded a photo of some of my thermo housing silastic job for PeterT as he commented on some dodgy work from a job he was working on. Will it pass...?

ImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1439863384.609092.jpgImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1439863413.809666.jpgImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1439863445.155602.jpgImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1439863461.941984.jpgImageUploadedByaussiefrogs1439863475.317543.jpg
 
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Can't see jack sh!t in that photo. I guess it's ok then.
 
Okay guys. Long time no update.

We had a little trouble getting it started, which turned out to the the crank position sensor wire shorting and not opening up the second relay to get the fuel pump and sparks going.

We fixed that and it started up, but won't keep running. You can keep it going if you keep the revs up a little, but don't want to do that right this moment because I don't have the radiator connected (wanted to see if it started before going to the hassle of rigging it all up). Question is: Why is it dropping out?

Three current concerns - a black connector (2 yellow wires) that has some length to it (reaches front of the block) doesn't have a home. Maybe it's from the AC radiator thing that I took out. The engine is from 95 s16 (152kw) put into a 94 s16(150kw). Looms seemed the same. ECU have same part number (but from different manufacturers) and I remember the ACAV routing looked a little different on the earlier one compared to the one I've rigged up.

Any thoughts?

I was hoping someone would have a lexia3 code reader/scanner to help me get it going.
 
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