My R12 POS Arrived!

bowie

1000+ Posts
I wouldn't worry to much about that blower flan. Really did sweet f all in mine. When it came to demisting on cold mornings. 1 x beanie and crack the window as much as you dare. :p

I loved the horn in the 12. When applying you could make it generate a couple of different tones. The most musical horn i've ever had :p
 

schlitzaugen

1000+ Posts
They do work, but you have to have everything else in good nick. There's a row of deflectors along the bottom of the w'screen, if those break, you won't be able to direct air on the screen so no dice.
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Well I had one job today, take the rear brake hard line out and well I got distracted.


I can't believe how much door was left in my rear doors!


And yes, one door (drivers side) had "anti intrusion bars" and the other.. I don't remember removing them, Actually did I replace the door at one point? For what it's worth the right hand still feels heavier. Wait maybe I did?

Oh the inspiration for cutting things today :p

Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWt40Z9lSDk

She's getting closer to just a skin now, which is fine. I'm just deciding what to do with the hinges. I'm half tempted to make the panels perminatly removable with little pins for them to sit on and even a bonnet style pin release in place of the latch.

Actually I feel I will. It will allow me to remove the thicker parts that are reinforced for the hinge, not the mention the latch supports in the pillars as well. I'll be left with just a skin and that's fine by me.

I reckon some right angle aluminum will work, perhaps I'll just grind down some M10 bolts to act as stands / receivers.

I'll keep the drivers door singable, and I'll replicate the rears to the passenger front it if works.

Some days you just really feel like cutting stuff.
 
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COL

Alpine A110
Well I had one job today, take the rear brake hard line out and well I got distracted.


I can't believe how much door was left in my rear doors!


And yes, one door (drivers side) had "anti intrusion bars" and the other.. I don't remember removing them, Actually did I replace the door at one point? For what it's worth the right hand still feels heavier. Wait maybe I did?

Oh the inspiration for cutting things today :p

Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWt40Z9lSDk

She's getting closer to just a skin now, which is fine. I'm just deciding what to do with the hinges. I'm half tempted to make the panels perminatly removable with little pins for them to sit on and even a bonnet style pin release in place of the latch.

Actually I feel I will. It will allow me to remove the thicker parts that are reinforced for the hinge, not the mention the latch supports in the pillars as well. I'll be left with just a skin and that's fine by me.

I reckon some right angle aluminum will work, perhaps I'll just grind down some M10 bolts to act as stands / receivers.

I'll keep the drivers door singable, and I'll replicate the rears to the passenger front it if works.

Some days you just really feel like cutting stuff.
Replace the glass with some lexan and save even more weight
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Speaking of lightness, this evening procrastination had me fixing the brackets I made to hold the coil packs years ago.

tadaaa.



Ah that feels better.

Now can someone remind me why I need to keep the bottom half (the shaft) of the old dizzy installed? Was it because it locks the oil pump In place? I tried to pull it free and I couldn’t?

So what I’ve done is gut the dizzy, and cut the shaft free. So it can fall free from the housing. So to install my contraction I set the cut shaft in place on the drive, then instal the dizzy body, before bolting it all down.

The dizzy body serves a good purpose being a stand, but the shaft. Do I need to keep it at all?



 

schlitzaugen

1000+ Posts
Yeah, the dizzy shaft keeps the pump pinion from working its way up and flying away. Should have some thrust washers between the drive and dizzy body to limit how much the pinion can move up and down.
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Rather than more power from an 807, I think your best option is a turbo on a 1.4 sierra motor.
Just a basic setup, aim for 180 to 200 hp, keep it cheap and simple.
Weeeeeeeeeeeeeel, I'm going to practice making manifolds,.. and I'm half keeping my eyes open for a second hand stock wrx / lancer turbo ~ish, or a stock AMG / BMW / PUG Eaton M45 supercharger that the kids seem to junk all the time but, convinced it would be easiest to make a draw through setup putting the carb in front of the turbo / super, and I'm not suite sure what needs to happen with turbo seals to stop pulling engine oil in via the turbo, or the super charger seals, I've been reading they used to rebuild some turbos / supers with carbon seals or something... anyway..

Yeah, the dizzy shaft keeps the pump pinion from working its way up and flying away. Should have some thrust washers between the drive and dizzy body to limit how much the pinion can move up and down.
Aaaaaaaah thats right! Thanks Schlitz. Confirming I just made everything worse last night :D :(

#EDIT!

No wait it's ok! The dizzy is still secured by the base, and the shaft is sat flush against the bottom of the housing. It can't move up at all you silly dilly. it's totally fine. Ahh I'm not very smart.
 
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Bustamif

Member
Turbo seals are not an issue on modern turbos. Maybe think about fabricating an inlet manifold with injectors and a fuel rail. You can actually buy the weld in boss to mount injectors, all you need then is an old throttle body to control air coming in and mount the TPS.
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Turbo seals are not an issue on modern turbos. Maybe think about fabricating an inlet manifold with injectors and a fuel rail. You can actually buy the weld in boss to mount injectors, all you need then is an old throttle body to control air coming in and mount the TPS.
Oh interesting.. well that got much easier Hmmmm.
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Well I had a day to myself to potter in the garage!

So the grinder was still plugged in so why not go and get rid of some of those brackets I've left.

Took the doors off and went about trimming all the internal structures. I had left heaps in there as I wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to do. Out comes the "anti-intrusion bars", i.e ~0.5mm, bent U shape, 10mm wide, spot welded in 2 locations either end of the door. Wouldn't like my chances should have anything t-boned me. (Don't worry, will get a cage)

Also I was reminded just how different the Virage is (drivers front is from a Virage). The doors is completely different. The window rail is supported on a podium as apposed to be box'd in on the 12 door, the anti intrusion bar is serious this time, 50mm wide, looks to be 2mm, boxed in, and then then welded to the door structure at the front, and spot welded in 4 locations on the rear. Much better! (For what it's worth after drilling out the spot welds the virage anti intrusion bar is not budging. I'll have to wait till I remove the latch box sections at the front before I can bin it).

The locks / latches are different and secured differently which reminds me, I don't like the internal latch being reliant on a single S shaped fastener. Mine is bent and doesn't actually sit over the receiving end of the rod properly. Might have a think about a better way of getting people in, and I getting out. Perhaps just a hole in the window at the rear of the door so I can push the latch from the outside should it fail internally.

I've left the front triangled sections that secures the latches in all the doors at the moment, I have a feeling they will come out but I want to keep them (and the original latches in position) until I've made my new ones. Then cut cut cut and I'll have me some quick release door skins.

I set about to the odds and ends in the boot also, couple random brackets here, the box'd section that supported the spare wheel, the jack holder and can't quite get to the reinforced sections that support the boot latches. I'd have to cut the rocker panel out to remove that extra material, for the moment it can stay.

Next weekend I plan to have a look at the window wipers. Decided I only need one (if at all, rainX is pretty good these days..) I want to check the mechanism to see if it will still be secured ok should I cut the passenger section away. I thick it will be right, and I might get some free power out of the wiper motor, will see.

Oh handbrakes! Those with racecars, do you miss your handbrakes? This is a circuit car so don't worry about the dirty stuff, there is a bit of structure there that could be binned, I haven't had a need for it (actually doesn't work very well, latch doesn't hold) but best ask questions now before I throw it all out. I feel like I needed it to assist in bleeding the rear brakes at one stage, perhaps it just pre tensioned the shoes? Hmmmm.
 

renault8&10

1000+ Posts
My personal opinion is you should leave a handbrake in, even if it only allows you time to get out of the car and place a rock or chock of some description. Turning up at different tracks you can never guarantee you are going to find a nice flat spot to park and if you’re on your own then returning to your spot and parking up could save the car running away from you.

Ps - never come off the track with hot brakes and leave your handbrake on though until they have cooled. I’ve also seen cars with rear discs leave their handbrakes on then roll away once the discs cool - the car was in a decent slope however. It ran across a road and into a Ute parked opposite.
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Weeeeeeeeeeeel so I couldn’t help myself, I no longer have a handbrake.

but lucky I did!

The outer cable housing that is passed between the trailing arm and the sway bar was worn. On inspecting it I actually snapped in my hand.

So being presented with having to change the outer cable anyway, ah it it’s time was numbered.

And more general maintenance fun, when taking the drivers side drum out the split pin was snapped and working it’s way out. Glad I caught that.

Well now is the time to change the wheel cylinders anyway (was on the list) so that’s something I suppose.

Noice.

Satisfying amount of weight in all that cable et al, and the underside just looks so simple now :p


I’ll either tap and install some small bolts in the rear of the drums where the cable once went, oooooor just sikiflex.

And finally some self inspirational art for when things are open once again..

smIMGP9566.JPG


let the dismantling continue.
 
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Bustamif

Member
Bowie, the various race cars I have driven have not had a handbrake. That includes open wheelers, various sports cars here, USA and Europe, touring cars, GT's and V8 Supercars. Only a few Aussie V8 Supercars I drove had a line lock, hydraulic lock to hold the car at the start. Pit areas are generally level so cars can be jacked up and worked on.
The usual practice for standing starts back in the day was for a pit crew to place a piece of chalk under the front wheel, until that was banned when start procedures changed.
We all had to learn fancy footwork to do standing starts if the start line was on a big slope. Most tracks have a start line on level ground. That could vary depending on where you are on the grid, Bathurst and Eastern Creek is tricky if you are down the back of the grid.
I found a lot of cars with a very tight diff or a solid spool will remain stationary if he have a very slight lock on when the tyres are sticky after a warm up lap. Sometimes when the revs come up and the starter is a bit slow on the lights, the vibration can make the car creep an inch or two.
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Hi Everybody! just a quick note with some success I had with parts from O/S.

I'm going over the car and replacing all the consumables, tie rods and rack ends where the focus of this months pay check, and just in case this helps others, I had a great experience with this mob on ebay; (before some new forum members here made them self known to be able to assist with parts, I'll try you next pay check)


I bought them on the 26th, they arrived today via England.

I really really really can't send a postcard NSW that quickly. 5 stars, would buy stuff again.

Oh! I tried some local QH parts suppliers, or course nothing in stock (These are R18 parts) and couldn't provide any lead time.

VIV LA RaceCar
 

bowie

1000+ Posts
Ah should have just left it.

I've kinda wrecked my drivers side door.

I was keen to get rid of the later ADR re reinforcement, and I was prepared to cut the mounting points away, the inner skin, everything to get at it, turns out the later virage doors were really well made. The material is layerd 3x times by the time it is folded into the seam, its all very good.

Anyway I need a saw as apposed to my spinny cut wheel of death, I don't have a way of safely getting at all that material now. Hmmmm.


There is still the window rail in the way on the inside, that is seem welded to one of the interior skins, I've snapped 2 x wheels trying to get at it all carefully, I'm stopping before the next cutting wheels explodes proper and lands in my shins.

The early door had a tiny piece of one sided H section? running the length, no interior skin welded to the window rail, I removed it with a pair of pliers (don't have an accident in a early reno). This Virage door... this door is goood.

And I've just ruined it.

The only way I could service it now it to cut the exterior seem off around the entire edge, and lift the inner skin out, but then I'm left with a door that is a little short.. I think I'm gong to put it down and either;

a) keep it as a mold now for fiberglass which may be the only way to save it,
b) take it to an adult with a saw.

I didn't want to be faffed with fiberglass at the moment as I don't really have the space.

Good one Bowie.



IN OTHER NEWS! I also wrecked / fixed the brakes today.


That is the old wheel cylinders and hard line removed. It had to come out as it's being re made to accommodate the proportional vale, which will end up next to the drivers seat like this;


That will be a nice easy path into the cabin, running the length of the door out down passed where the fuel take once was before joining the beam. That's right the fuel tank is still destined to come out, make I might try to make my self feel good and wreck that this afternoon.

About the only thing I did achieve today was fitting the new rear wheel cylinders.


The passenger hardline fitting is pretty terrible, I might re make that to be honest, but another day.

And why am I finishing my day at 2pm? Because I'm embarrassed toward the door I've ruined.

VIV LA IDIOT!

Oh, and no I haven't got my mig shielding gas, (noting crap drivers side floor) I got booked 3 x times @ the Melba tunnel going to work eating into this months toy fund. The thing is still sitting under a jumper in the office just taunting me.

Grumble grumble grumble!
 
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