My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

badabec

New member
"The bottom of the doors received some seam sealer that resembles the original look."

Mine didn't have any!
 

bleudanube

Member
"The bottom of the doors received some seam sealer that resembles the original look."

Mine didn't have any!
Maybe I was ‘lucky’ to have had two cars that had seam sealer smeared along the seal strip?! What’s the brains trust experience? To seal or not to seal?
 

Buttercup

Member
Mmmmm... given that's it's very dark, and rather cool outside, and nice and cozy in by the fire..... I did take the torch out to 3 of my "nearby" cars.
From a very small sample it seems that single headlight cars did not have.... but 3rd nose do have.

I'm not confident that the sample is big enough..... so while I'm looking for Pallas trim for Ramaling tomorrow, I'll inspect a few more doors..... trying to focus on '64 and Safari.
 

bleudanube

Member
Mmmmm... given that's it's very dark, and rather cool outside, and nice and cozy in by the fire..... I did take the torch out to 3 of my "nearby" cars.
From a very small sample it seems that single headlight cars did not have.... but 3rd nose do have.

I'm not confident that the sample is big enough..... so while I'm looking for Pallas trim for Ramaling tomorrow, I'll inspect a few more doors..... trying to focus on '64 and Safari.
Stay by the fire Bob! It’s too late for my doors anyway now - sealer is on and the panels are at the painter… 😬
 

badabec

New member
My plan when I get to play with the panels is to have them gently blasted, back home for repairs, then back again for hot zinc spray along the seams and both sides of the bottoms. Followed by epoxy primer all over. The undersides of the doors will get Raptor then finally Dinitrol 447 black stone chip. At least a year yet though.
 

bleudanube

Member
Well this was certainly one of the more ‘interesting’ weekends…. While the panels are being painted, I thought I have another look at why the hydraulics didn’t mo last time I ran the engine.

The engine started easily, but runs a bit too low revs at idle - have to read up how to increase idling speed on the Weber carbies… and it’s still a bit smoky as the paint burns onto the exhaust, but otherwise all good so far.

So I bled the system a couple of times and kept an eye on the reservoir level - as I was pretty sure the system hadn’t filled up properly yet… topped it up and the suspension started lifting! Success!

Then LHM levels seemed to drop again, so I “went for a look” and bugger: there’s a 2m diameter puddle under the right rear suspension… ouch! Engine off, not hard to find… the boot had split completely. Crap! But easy to fix, just need to order a couple of new boots.

Probably a two man job… one concentrates on engine and reservoir, the other spots for movement and leaks…. Might need to find my “intimate COVID partner” next time 😂 .

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Lucky I changed to LHM - less corrosive. The garage floor won’t rust for a while 😂. Also had one normal leak at the front, where I mustn’t have tightened up one of the unions - easy fix.

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So, park the hydraulics… onto something else, simpler, fun and shiny. Assembled the front bumper. A bit of fiddling around aligning all the pieces, the thing has a surprising amount of bolts holding it together.

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Installed the town & country horns, not happy yet with the fanfare… it’s not loud enough, a bit too squawky. I have another horn, might try that…

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Another job awaiting assembly were the headlamps and the Marchal auxiliary lights. I had quite a number of lights, buckets and glass to choose from - I went with two Marchal headlight glasses as well to match the auxiliary lights.

Hyqual in Queensland re-silvered the buckets and I used a thin bead of Sika 291 to glue the glass back in, then carefully hammered the rim back over the glass edge.

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And then the fun started. Sometimes you think you got it all covered and then realise you don’t after all: of the three buckets I had, only one worked for the Marchal lights…. The other two were for another type of Marchals and for a Cibie light…. Hmmm.

But I also had two headlight support rings… they at least work for what I have, but they of course have “no bucket”… what now?

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This is how they look installed. Conceptually OK, the front chrome ring attaches as planned but it is too open at the back.

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Looking at the manual, the upper light is what I wanted to recreate, but I would need another bucket as I don’t have a matching pair…

The lower light is what I have now, just a ring, with the light clipped in. I can recreate the “sock” to seal it, but it appears to be for years to 62…

Question: Would anyone have another bucket or a photo of what the “sock” looks like?

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I post a photo of the missing bucket next… 10 photo limit.

that’s the fun part of a restoration.

Sven
 

bleudanube

Member
Here some photos of the missing bucket I would prefer, rather than going with the sock option…

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Anyone got one? Bob? Michael? Roger? Erik? Anyone?
 

Buttercup

Member
You know the horns are tunable?
A bolt head on the back, adjusts the clearance of the solenoid, which adjusts the tone.
 

bleudanube

Member
Yes, tried to tune the fanfare, but it went from squeak to squawk… 😂. Will have another go…

if you were to have a bucket - fantastic. You can throw a set of M7 bolts in with it then… very timely.
 

bleudanube

Member
Holy geeze, now that I look at it in pics, I did a terrible job wrapping the fender harness:blackeye::disapprove:
Not at all Bill, not at all! I am still amazed every time I plug in a new electric component that everything works as intended - the loom is the highlight of the restoration - a true worldwide effort of cooperation.
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
Is that a brand new boot that split before the car was even driven ? That looks like a huge amount of LHM for a leakage return :)
 
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You will need that M7 bolt kit to put the front bumper back together. Almost every old D I have ever bought has had its front end held together by about half as many bolts as it should.

Roger
 

Ken W

1000+ Posts
I would be checking that the return line from that boot is not blocked and maybe there is a bad leak in the cylinder seals in the suspension strut. It looks like it has blown up and burst like a balloon.

Cheers, Ken
 
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bleudanube

Member
Thanks for everyone’s comments on the volume… have checked both cylinders and found this one missing the Teflon ring - doh! I will also check the return line before reinstalling it all to make sure it’s all clear (pretty sure it is.

The boots were original - still very supple, but also just realised they should be changed due to my change to LHM from LHS.

a couple of brain farts along the way… happens I guess. Order new boots, slap them on and see what happens.
 
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