My new challenge - 1964 ID19F Safari

Hotrodelectric

Now go make me a sandwich
Thanks for everyone’s comments on the volume… have checked both cylinders and found this one missing the Teflon ring - doh! I will also check the return line before reinstalling it all to make sure it’s all clear (pretty sure it is.

The boots were original - still very supple, but also just realised they should be changed due to my change to LHM from LHS.

a couple of brain farts along the way… happens I guess. Order new boots, slap them on and see what happens.
It's a restoration. They do that. Far better you found out in the garage under test instead of stuck somewhere with no access to anything.
 

bleudanube

Member
Does anyone know where this seal goes? It is just over 2m long and about 25mm wide - it is a very supple foam seal… didn’t take any photos of where I removed it from… and I only have one…

bonnet? Bumpers? Dash?
19D27480-A0C4-4E61-BF87-625C06FE006F.jpeg
 

bleudanube

Member
No, that one is quite a lot wider (about 50-60mm) and only about 1.5m long… thanks for playing “seal trivia” Erik…😂
 

bleudanube

Member
Did think that as well, but there is a flat one already …. And the one I am not sure about is way longer than the car is wide - over 2m…. Which doesn’t really align with anything.

maybe it didn’t come off the car and was just collateral in the bits I got when I bought the car. Hmmm…
 

bleudanube

Member
Well, I need help from the hydraulic brains trust - I continued to recommission the hydraulics and encountered a few gremlins - as expected after years of inactivity. So the situation is as follows:

- the rear suspension got the seals changed and new boots - working as expected now. Car goes up and down at the back. It levels when I sit on the tail gate. Works and is plush as… lovely!

- front suspension went up and down once, is now staying up and hard…

- I was unable to get any fluid to any brake , front or back…

- the power steering is working as intended, may have a leak… too early to tell. But is smooth and light. Good.

- I then had another leak, this time around the accumulator. Can’t 100% tell where exactly the leak is but it’s decent. Might be the sphere seal!? Could the sphere have overpressurised, blown the diaphragm, overfilled and blown the seal???

- I can manually move the arm at the rear height corrector and the back drops and rises. Good.

- the front height corrector seem ‘stuck’. I cannot make it do anything, even when trying to move the arm by force. Probably related to the stuck suspension on high now…

And then the radiator overheated… hmmm, so that’s off to the shop to check it out. Maybe the core wasn’t any good after all and blocked. Let’s see.

the fun of recommissioning … two steps forward, one back 😬

any guidance welcome. Accumulator buggered? HC blocked? Why no fluid to the brake circuit?

thanks in advance! Sven
 

Buttercup

Member
Front height corrector needs the stack of damper washers cleaned out.

Accumulator can't rupture the diaphragm just from fluid pressure......
The diaphragm is just floating between fluid on one side and nitrogen on the other...... both at equal pressure, so it is not stretched like a balloon, it just goes where it is pushed.

The accumulator sphere seal should be new, and hand tight.
Are you using an old aluminum body regulator?
These are VERY likely cracked at this age.
You might have to use a late steel one.

Brake supply could be blocked somewhere....... lots of possible places.
When refitting pipe union rubbers, it is possible that the rubber gets pushed in front of the pipe and blocks it.
It's good practise to watch the tip of the pipe go into the rubber squarely, then follow up with the nut by hand.
You might need to do a bit of system checking..... against a circuit diagram, and progressively work along checking for fluid flow at each union.
Yes its tedious, and can get messy, but if you put clear plastic tubes on the pipes, and collect the fluid in a container, it shouldn't be too messy.
You can even shortcut the supply of fluid to each brake unit, then work back.
 

bleudanube

Member
Thanks Bob for some suggestions. Been tracing the lines as per diagram… no obvious issues found (yet)



I thought I might have had the rear HC lines mixed up at the front HC with the break valve feed - but not so, just had the wrong coloured sleeves…

So, next will be the front HC - removal and check as that one feeds the brake accumulator and front suspension cylinders (which are stuck in high) and I cannot make it do anything even if I force the slide left and right…

Tried to get the accumulator sphere off as I think the o-ring has blown out… poor access (only from underneath) and it doesn’t want to budge - bastard! Bleed screw is open so shouldn’t be under pressure… is there a trick to it? Can only get one hand on it and too tight for a strap wrench.

Maybe I misunderstand; Priority valve? I don’t think I have that… only the later models. Do you mean the 4-way one the later cars have? Or the distribution block?

Sven
E26374BE-AF38-4904-9848-320EA16348D7.jpeg
 

Buttercup

Member
But..... is that the correct circuit diagram for your car?
Did that car have power steering from the factory?

The distribution block has non return valves in it, are these working properly?

I guess that 'cos you are testing the suspension, you have the car standing on its wheels, not on stands?
Maybe have you plumbed the brake accumulator backwards? The non return valve would stop flow to the front brakes.

Mmmmmm.....
Good luck!
 
That's a DS hydraulic diagram. IDs had a slightly different arrangement including a security valve instead of a priority valve. Safaris were a hybrid of the two, given they were an ID that had some DS features, including 7 cylinder pump and a brake accumulator. Security valve on an ID sedan is inside the front left inner guard.

Roger
 

faulksy

Member
When you swapped to LHM, did you swap the brake valve assembly? I seem to remember someone else on here had problems after swapping the brake valve and fitting power steering. From memory. DS and ID brake valves have different plumbing connections. Maybe it was Shane with his pink ID?
 

bleudanube

Member
Thanks. Been using both for the installation and troubleshooting as well. I will work my way slowly through the system and will get there (one day) 😬
 

bleudanube

Member
Ok, radiator checked out well. Flow and pressure tested. So it must be the thermostat that causes the overheating. I checked it, but maybe it opens too late. New one on the way. Must be it as the waterpump is brand new…

maybe a stupid question: are all height correctors the same? I have a couple spare that I bought… assuming they clean up ok, do they all work or are they model dependant? Ie are the orifices all the same, shim stacks, rods, etc?

Sven
 

badabec

New member
"So it must be the thermostat that causes the overheating."
Are you relying on the big red light of doom?
If you are, check the sender first. Mine closed at 85C, not very useful with an 82C thermostat. My new sender closes at 105C.
 
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