Marks Mi16 Rebuild

Whilst I was attaching the liner holders I found that the head bolts were really hard to turn so I withdrew them and ran an 11mm tap through the threads. Wow the crud that cam out was amazing. Murphy stuck hi head up though.... The last thread had a helicoil in it and whilst tapping the thread, I was actually winding the helicoil down. Does anyone know how I can get it back up?

Spent the rest of the day cleaning the box and block.
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I see you have an 8V sump fitted with a spacer block. If the pickup hasn't been extended, there will be a lot of wasted oil floating around.

Measure the top of the helicoil and compare to the other threads.
 
Not that sump. That's from a DFZ, which has the same overall height as a DKZ/DFW/D6C sump + spacer.
 
PeterT said:
I see you have an 8V sump fitted with a spacer block. If the pickup hasn't been extended, there will be a lot of wasted oil floating around.

Measure the top of the helicoil and compare to the other threads.
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Yes Peter I have your pick up extension. Sump has a trap door (deeper than the 8v) and a windage tray (mounted on your brackets) so I'm sure it's from something else. Engine holds over 7 litres of oil without oil cooler.
 
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Got lots of pics but the few that count are here. Oil area looks good much better than I expected. Cam belt end main bearing is warn but with good wear marking. No finger nail ribs on the crank. I'll get a view of the others soon.
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Took No1 piston out (cam belt end) and I can confirm it has been rebuilt before. First hint was the helicoils, second hint is the liners have been honed twice. Look close and you will see two sets of cross hatch. Something I haven't experienced was when I lifted the cap off the rod, the bearing stayed attached to the crank. A gentle twist with a leaver and it popped off. You can see how it's distorted when it sits in the cap. I'd say half a millimetre at each end. Need the brain trust to help me here.


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Check bearing crush and ovality on the rods as well as the bearing clearance. Even if a crank doesn't have grooves, it doesn't mean it's not worn. It does mean that the oil filter has been working properly. Liner has had water in it hence the pitting at the top.
 
Bluey said:
Check bearing crush and ovality on the rods as well as the bearing clearance. Even if a crank doesn't have grooves, it doesn't mean it's not worn. It does mean that the oil filter has been working properly. Liner has had water in it hence the pitting at the top.
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Water - yes that would be from the pressure clean last week. Remember I have a second block and components so I will rip that one apart too and see how that one is.
 
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Where to purchase bearings from? Is one brand better than the other? King Racing, Glyco.......
 
Find an ACL dealer.
 

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I'm going the whole hog. Stripped everything down and off to the engineers. Crank to me measured for bearings an block to be cleaned. I'll take the liners to him for measure as well.
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I stripped the second engine today and once again picked a day that was so bloody hot.... The internals of the second engine look to be in better nick than the first. I will take them both to the engineers tommorow and he can pick the best based on measurements.

First engine internals are really black. Second engine internals are a nice new oil colour. What causes this colour difference?

And yes I'm guilty of owning the crocks...

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you need to take the engine blocks and get the area that the liners sit bead blasted. They corrode under the liner seats and will only show up when properly cleaned.
 
Adrian Wuillemi said:
you need to take the engine blocks and get the area that the liners sit bead blasted. They corrode under the liner seats and will only show up when properly cleaned.
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Thanks Adrian. That is going too. I'm having trouble sourcing the o-rings for the liners without having to purchase them in a complete set. Any ideas?
 
PeterT said:
EAI sell a set of four.
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I tried EAI first up but they are not stocking them anymore. Same for spray bar o rings and water pump gaskets... I think they are parting ways from the old stuff
 
Spray bar o-rings are easy, just take a sample to a hydraulics specialist or o-ring supplier.
 
On the topic of your driveshafts, did you replace any needles? I lost a few of mine when I accidentally shook the dirty rag I disassembled it on :disappr:
 
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