Marks Mi16 Rebuild

PugMonkey

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This has been on the cards for a long time now. Many items have been purchased and put aside for the big day. So, as it happens, before Christmas I had some fun on the freeway late one night and since then the car never really ran the same.

So from my spare engine (xu9j4) I have sent the head away which I am now told is ready to collect. I have taken 0.5mm off combining this with a 0.7mm cometic gasket should get me a good compression ratio based on other posts I have read. A PeterT cam is also under way.

I won't post long winded texts with this job so keep an eye out for photos.

First I had to make up some brackets for the radiator to incorporate the oil cooler so I went one further to drop the radiator 60mm and add some Davies Craig cooling fans. This was a mock up before I disconnect everything.
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This has been on the cards for a long time now. Many items have been purchased and put aside for the big day. So, as it happens, before Christmas I had some fun on the freeway late one night and since then the car never really ran the same.

So from my spare engine (xu9j4) I have sent the head away which I am now told is ready to collect. I have taken 0.5mm off combining this with a 0.7mm cometic gasket should get me a good compression ratio based on other posts I have read. A PeterT cam is also under way.

I won't post long winded texts with this job so keep an eye out for photos.

First I had to make up some brackets for the radiator to incorporate the oil cooler so I went one further to drop the radiator 60mm and add some Davies Craig cooling fans. This was a mock up before I disconnect everything.
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Oh yeah, remember these? Not quite ready for them yet....
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My job for tonight is to tidy up the loom (unwrap and wrap) then split it into three parts.
1. Gauges to dashboard (already done when I put the twin cam in...)
2. ECU
3. Main harness for the car body.

I have a Haltech ECU to install but I want to do this after the engine is running so it seems easier to slit the loom now (and when the engine is out and disconnected) rather than later.
 
So the engine that's in the car is swinging on two mounts thus ready to come out (tomorrow job) $800 for the head so I'm wondering if now I should spend some on the bottom end to tidy it up - but that wasn't the plan.

I also picked up the head today. I have triple cut seats, resurfaced .020" (bloody imperial measures....) some water jackets repaired and some plunge cuts.... All sounds good with all valve stem oil seals replaced.

I'll wait till the cam comes back before all of the lifters go back in. I'm still waiting on oil spray bay o'rings.

When I get both blocks side by side I'll do some measurements and determine which one to use.
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Must have picked the hottest day so far to get it out although it only took an hour.
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I'm using ct14 as a Degreaser but it still struggles again the caked on grease. What are other people using? I will be cleaning / rebuilding the cv joints and will most likely use petrol or kerosene for that but is there anything between the two?
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Also now the engine is out I finally got to check the timing to see if the belt had slipped and it was spot on. The three guide pins lined up beautifully.
 
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That stuff is only 8g/L. I use Kenco, which is 36g/L (from memory). Kenco use to bite into your hands once, but they've tamed it down a bit. For CV joints, a pre-wash in kero is probably still easier/faster.
 
That stuff is only 8g/L. I use Kenco, which is 36g/L (from memory). Kenco use to bite into your hands once, but they've tamed it down a bit. For CV joints, a pre-wash in kero is probably still easier/faster.
Thanks Peter. I bought it for the high alkaline salts. That's ok ill get some kenco too. I was reading another post where you suggested to put a xu9j4 head onto an xu10j4rs block. Is this something new that's done?
 
You can do. That's what Parry, Adrian and I all have in our 205's. It just depends on what you have, where you've spent money etc.
 
You can do. That's what Parry, Adrian and I all have in our 205's. It just depends on what you have, where you've spent money etc.
All I have spent money on is the head, cam (you have), head gasket and head bolts.
 
Head gasket and head bolts are different for XU10.
 
Cleaning and re-grease cv joints. A good dose of kerosene does the job.
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You need to completely pull the outer CV apart, in order to clean it properly and inspect for wear.
 
You need to completely pull the outer CV apart, in order to clean it properly and inspect for wear.
Ditto. If you don't pull them down and repack them, there won't be any grease on wear surfaces and they will do major/catastrophic damage within 1000km. Youtube should have vids on how to get the birfield joint apart. Once you tap it off the shaft you rock the cage and the bearings will come out. Rollers needs to be taken off the tripod joint and needles individually cleaned. If you do it properly you won't have to touch them for over 100K km.
 
Ok thanks for the info. Now how to remove and replace a new bearing onto the drive shaft. This one has about 1mm play so shouldn't be too hard.
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Warm up that retaining ring with an oxy torch. It will then fall off. Then support under the bearing and press it off. You will need a long tube, matching diameter of inner race, to push the new one on.
 
Haven't got an oxy and LPG probably won't do the job so I might get it done by a cv guy.

Did the needle roller bearing on both shafts. Easy as....
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At least I know you can count to 99.
 
More work last night. Took the head off the engine that I will be rebuilding. Head gasket was as good as gone. Still a nice hone pattern in the cylinder wall so I'll do some measurements tonight to see if I can put some new rings In as well.
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