Koleos Hints, Tips, Problems

i too observe the over optimistic full state of the dash gauge.

Being fully a city person, I must admit I run mine to the warning light on every tank and just assume there is another 40 km or so left to travel with the idiot light showing. Have not been bold or stupid enough to test that theory to the end, but have done at least 20 km on the warning light And often put 53 litres in.
if It were me with the OP‘s problem, I’d probably fill her to the top before a decent trip, note the km, and then see where I’m at in 500 km. Don’t know the current series koleos, but mine is about a 55 l tank and computer claims about 9l per 100km.
I wonder if there is any type of basic learn function with the range of readings the trip compute/ fuel gauge show?
 
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I have done the experiment Jo, and on mine I have driven another 100km after the light came on without running out of fuel. I am happy with that. 2010 car, cvt, 4wd, etc. City km, short runs usually.
 
Hi fellow French car lovers , i have been reading the forums for a while and have owned several Citroens and now a 2018 Renault koleos , hoping the knowledge on here can assist with an issue it seems to be having, the fuel gauge will read under half full and suggest that it has several hundred km's , after a short trip and parked , once started again the fuel gauge light is on and has 0 kms , I then put more fuel in and the gauge goes to back over half full , i have had the dealer do a reset but it seems to be happening again, seems to only happen when the gauge reads under half ?
Diesel or Petrol?
My two bob is corrosion on the fuel level rheostat, on the T32 X-Trail resistance is lowest when tank is full, so I think below half the corrosion is increasing the resistance confusing the gauge that tank is empty.
The 4WD T32 X-Trail has two fuel level sensors as the tank straddles the tailshaft hump.
 
The 4WD T32 X-Trail has two fuel level sensors as the tank straddles the tailshaft hump.
I think AlexB might be on the money here.
It made me think of my Subaru WRX which also has a fuel tank straddling the tailshaft, which I know gave me some dramas when the car had stood for a long time, and needed a good refill to regain the feed from the "other side" of the tank.
This is the page from the only Koleos manual I can refer to:
It isn't really clarified, but it seems to have 2 senders, one in the pump/filter, and a separate one, which indicates to me it is in the other side of the "split" fuel tank.
Something going on there. It does show that the senders are of the float type.
 
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Diesel or Petrol?
My two bob is corrosion on the fuel level rheostat, on the T32 X-Trail resistance is lowest when tank is full, so I think below half the corrosion is increasing the resistance confusing the gauge that tank is empty.
The 4WD T32 X-Trail has two fuel level sensors as the tank straddles the tailshaft hump.
Hi Alex , its petrol, only ever used 98 ron in it , it hasn't done a lot of kms , under 40k, it's not 4wd so no tail shaft but assume the tank is the same , what would cause the corrosion?
 
Hi Alex , its petrol, only ever used 98 ron in it , it hasn't done a lot of kms , under 40k, it's not 4wd so no tail shaft but assume the tank is the same , what would cause the corrosion?
Possibly a bad batch of fuel and then sitting for a period with under 1/2 tank of fuel?
The below is assuming your Koleos has the same tank and pump as the T32 Xtrail.
In the Xtrail service manual it implies the R9M diesel empties the (sub) side first, but doesn't say what the petrol does.
If you're handy with a multimeter you could unplug just the 6pin connector on the main fuel pump/level unit and measure the resistance of the combined two level sensors between pin 2 and 5 when you park after a trip and then again next day.
Note, you can't measure the resistance with harness connected or when there's voltage present, but you can measure the voltage drop across pin 2 and 5 and use ohms law to calculate the current and/or resistance.
On the Xtrail a full tank should be approx 50 ohms, a half tank should be approx 200 Ohms, empty should be approx 290 Ohms.


Petrol version is labelled X9 in this schematic which connects directly to the dash on pin 44 and 51

Fuel_Level_sch.jpg
 
My 2009 Koleos also had an intermittent fuel gauge when the level was below half.
Anything above half and the gauge worked normally, but below half it was fluctuating between completely empty and correct level (but mostly empty, including warning light).
I thought it probably has a sticky float in the sender unit, I'm reasonably sure it'd not a issue with the instrument cluster.
Never did get it fixed, I just topped-up the tank when it got below half or used the trip computer.
Mine was a 4WD petrol so might have a different fuel tank to clear the drive shaft.

Cheers
RTT
 
hi Ren Tin Tin , that is the exact issue , the dealer is now working on getting this fixed under warranty , only out of warranty by a few months , thanks all for the replies
 
Woo hoo.......

Nearing 12 years after I started this thread it still assists people.
Good on you all for contributing.

I have had a couple of goes at 'restoring' my lenses.
Given the car lives out in the weather 100% of the time, I figure its time to show some love to the old girl.
See the link below.

Headlight lens

Has anyone bought these from Ali for their car and what was their experience of the quality?
 
Not planned…inner left CV spewed.

2014, manual, had both inner CV joints replaced in 2020 at ~45000k and now at 78000k.

Any speculation? Or, just bad luck? OEM or aftermarket?
 
Not planned…inner left CV spewed.

2014, manual, had both inner CV joints replaced in 2020 at ~45000k and now at 78000k.

Any speculation? Or, just bad luck? OEM or aftermarket?
Joints or boots?
 
Joints or boots?
Inner left boots had apparently been replaced earlier. Now, inner left boot has split.

I read that it’d be easier to replace the driveshaft. To get the right part, do you, or anyone, know if there’s a parts fiche available online for a regular Joe?
 
If you don't have clicking noises on full steering lock at low speeds, and if you can replace the boot, then that may be all it needs. While replacing the boot try to push some CV joint grease into the balls, it will give it a new life. Don't overfill with grease, it may pop the boot again.
Depending on design, it can be quite difficult to replace a cvj boot, or a cvj. There are usually specialists around who may have the equipment and make it look easy.
 
Or, seeing as it’s only happened in the last few hundred ks, should I just replace the boot!?
As Fordman said, just replace the boot.
DON'T get generic boots, get genuine.
Go to a Nissan dealer ask about the T-32 Xtrail boots - will be the same.
Get them to cross check with Renault part catalogue.

The plastic boots fail earlier than the rubber ones.
My Mk V golf did them on a regular basis even with genuine bits.
I suspect the cost of buying shafts will outweigh the cost of boots and fitment.
The shafts have to be removed in any case - that will be the major cost.
 
Thanks all. Will listen for odd sounds, then make the call.

Rang two shops today who were both Renault hesitant, despite me telling them it’s an Xtrail playing dress ups.
 
OEM from Renault for a single boot (inner left) ~$300!
Can get delivered on eBay from $30 (‘Febest’ brand).
I should have cross-check with Nissan, as per Fuego’s advice….
 
OEM from Renault for a single boot (inner left) ~$300!
Can get delivered on eBay from $30 (‘Febest’ brand).
I should have cross-check with Nissan, as per Fuego’s advice….
My memory says I bought some febest branded suspension parts that went to lunch very early............
 
Need urgent help finding the engine number on Renault Koleos Diesel 2L Turbo 2009 for Blue Slip

Can anyone give me specific directions as to where to find the engine number? It's needed for a blue slip by the mechanics tomorrow morning. Needed for the 1st Feb.

Many Thanks in advance!
 
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