Koleos Hints, Tips, Problems

IWS said:
Question for owners of Koleos, circa 2018 build. I have a 2018 build 2WD drive petrol Koleos. Bought as a demo model - 5000k.
Air con has never got especially cold. Today in Melbourne it was 35 degrees. AC runs and cools a bit - but on lowest temp does not really chill the air.

My Laguna by comparison, even on very hot (40degree) days, gets so cold on the coldest setting that I have to turn the temperature up after running the AC for a while.

Anyone else with a Koleos of similar vintage experience this semi-cool AC?

Ian.
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Mine is a 2016 build and the AC is very cold, even on 35degree days. Even with the seat coolers and the rear vents open.
It's cold to the extent that you can't have the vents directing air onto your hands when holding the steering wheel because it's too uncomfortable.
If you haven't already done so, make sure the AC is set to recirc and measure the temperature of the air coming out the vents.
At 30 degrees C ambient air temperature, it should be blowing air in the low teens, give or take.
The air coming out the vents should feel cold, definitely something wrong if it's just cool.
Your Lag on the other hand, would be normal.

Cheers
 
REN TIN TIN said:
Mine is a 2016 build and the AC is very cold, even on 35degree days. Even with the seat coolers and the rear vents open.
It's cold to the extent that you can't have the vents directing air onto your hands when holding the steering wheel because it's too uncomfortable.
If you haven't already done so, make sure the AC is set to recirc and measure the temperature of the air coming out the vents.
At 30 degrees C ambient air temperature, it should be blowing air in the low teens, give or take.
The air coming out the vents should feel cold, definitely something wrong if it's just cool.
Your Lag on the other hand, would be normal.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Thanks. Confirms my feeling that the AC in that car is not (never has been) right. I should have taken that up with the dealer earlier than now - but I'll get onto it. The car is still in the 5 year warranty period - so fixing the problem *might* be covered by warranty?

Ian.
 
IWS said:
The car is still in the 5 year warranty period - so fixing the problem *might* be covered by warranty?

Ian.
Click to expand...
Should be. Just checking an obvious - has the cabin filter been changed? As long as you have strong air flow at the vents, it will have been.
 
Fordman said:
Should be. Just checking an obvious - has the cabin filter been changed? As long as you have strong air flow at the vents, it will have been.
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The poor AC performance has been there since I purchased the car - with 5,000 K on the clock - so presumably cabin filter would have been OK at that point. Now at 33000 kms. Not sure if the cabin filter was changed at last service?

Yes, there is strong air flow at the vents - it is just that the air coming out aint very cold ...

I'll chat with the dealer.

Ian.
 
IWS said:
Thanks. Confirms my feeling that the AC in that car is not (never has been) right. I should have taken that up with the dealer earlier than now - but I'll get onto it. The car is still in the 5 year warranty period - so fixing the problem *might* be covered by warranty?

Ian.
Click to expand...
A quick and easy check for you: turn the A/C down to as low as it will go and then increase the revs of the fan to maximum. If this doesn't provide an increase in volume and a lower temperature you will need to see an A/C specialist. There is nothing secret about A/C!
 
Kim Luck said:
A quick and easy check for you: turn the A/C down to as low as it will go and then increase the revs of the fan to maximum. If this doesn't provide an increase in volume and a lower temperature you will need to see an A/C specialist. There is nothing secret about A/C!
Click to expand...
On that test there is no change in temperature. So I'm off to have the A/C looked at.

Ian.
 
Kim Luck said:
A quick and easy check for you: turn the A/C down to as low as it will go and then increase the revs of the fan to maximum. If this doesn't provide an increase in volume and a lower temperature you will need to see an A/C specialist. There is nothing secret about A/C!
Click to expand...
Another test to do on modern cars is to set the AC on minimum and ON, and then try and find an AC hose inside the engine bay to detect if the AC system is actualy doing anything. It should be ice cold.
It is always a possibility that the problem lies with the air mixer/climate control wizz bangery in the dash and not the AC pump and associated plumbing.
 
IWS said:
Question for owners of Koleos, circa 2018 build. I have a 2018 build 2WD drive petrol Koleos. Bought as a demo model - 5000k.
Air con has never got especially cold. Today in Melbourne it was 35 degrees. AC runs and cools a bit - but on lowest temp does not really chill the air.

My Laguna by comparison, even on very hot (40degree) days, gets so cold on the coldest setting that I have to turn the temperature up after running the AC for a while.

Anyone else with a Koleos of similar vintage experience this semi-cool AC?

Ian.
Click to expand...
Our Koleos (same shape but 2017) is nice and cold. We have it set for 22c.
Maybe yours needs a re-gas, try that.
 
GoldCoaster said:
Thanks mate.
Looks like I go back to Renault. They should have records of me asking each service to have the thing fixed (display going blank, radio presets resetting etc), so will push for it to be looked at again. Even though past warranty, there’s records of problems with it before so hoping they don’t charge…
Click to expand...
I fixed the display problem.
Seems there is a system reset on the main display - I was sure I have reset it before but this acted different as it reset everything back to factory - radio presets gone, dash display reset, phone setting reset etc. Now the air con display works.
 
G,day all,
Question regardling a 2021 Koleos. I've got a rear left wheel sensor that keeps failing. It's been back to the dealer 3 times already. 4th tomorrow... is this a common thing with them?
The bloke at the coffee shop said he had the same issue with his van before he got rid of it.
Just wondering if i'm wasting my time taking it back to the dealer over and over again. I haven't checked if it's holding air this time round, but the last time I took it back, it wasn't and and they replaced the valve and sensor.
 
So you've had a new sensor/transponder put inside the wheel? If so, I could suggest swap your rear wheels left to right. Maybe mark your wheels first to remember the possible faulty one. Then drive it a few KMs. Mine (2019) automatically picks up which wheel sensor is on which wheel, as displayed on the instrument panel. If it still shows faulty on the LHR, then it would indicate a fault with the chassis mounted sensor or wiring. (Or maybe that is the sensor that was replaced).
Just a suggestion because it will still be under warranty I guess, but it may help in the diagnosis.
 
yourmatedyl said:
G,day all,
Question regardling a 2021 Koleos. I've got a rear left wheel sensor that keeps failing. It's been back to the dealer 3 times already. 4th tomorrow... is this a common thing with them?
The bloke at the coffee shop said he had the same issue with his van before he got rid of it.
Just wondering if i'm wasting my time taking it back to the dealer over and over again. I haven't checked if it's holding air this time round, but the last time I took it back, it wasn't and and they replaced the valve and sensor.
Click to expand...
I would make sure that the tyre is also holding air.

Remove the wheel and put some soapy water around the bead on both sides to make sure you don'y have a leak, also check around the valve base and the Schrader valve itself.
 
Last edited:
Cheers for the suggestions!
They took the wheel off and actually did their job this time. It ACTUALLY had a puncture and the sensor was doing it's job.
The people at the dealer obviously weren't. Because the first time it went there, they told me there was no puncture and there was nothing wrong with the tyre. Took them 4 attempts to figure it out.
 
yourmatedyl said:
Cheers for the suggestions!
They took the wheel off and actually did their job this time. It ACTUALLY had a puncture and the sensor was doing it's job.
The people at the dealer obviously weren't. Because the first time it went there, they told me there was no puncture and there was nothing wrong with the tyre. Took them 4 attempts to figure it out.
Click to expand...
Glad you got it finally sorted out, hope they didn't charge you all the mucking around.

Just goes to show you check the simple stuff first.

Was going to mention puncture in post #1095 but thought being professionals they would of check for a puncture.
 
In their defence (sort of) my Koleos had (and may still have) a very slow leak from one tyre, and the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System is accurate enough to pick it up. New tyres last year, and ok for some time, then noted one tyre losing maybe 2-3 psi over a month, this was showing up on the TPMS display. Under warranty, tyre supplier removed wheel and could not detect a leak but replaced the valve anyway as a precaution, which did seem to improve it. At the same time, all tyres were rotated, but tracked for location. Some 2 months later, on a cold morning, the same tyre gave a low pressure warning, must have just dropped below the set limit, because it was still about 30psi, but lower than the others.
Hasn't noticeably dropped since, but I'm keeping a close eye on the TPMS display. These things are accurate enough to show different pressure on side of car facing the sun when parked. I'm very impressed with that.
So I can understand the TPMS working correctly and the dealer unable to find a slow leak.
 
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Hi all, hoping to find some help with a thorny starter problem. I have a 2010 2WD Koleos, which has been trouble-free for years but now will only occasionally start. I've done all the usual things and I'm confident it's a computer problem, not an electro-mechanical one. When I push the start button, there is clicking and some action and sometimes the starter solenoid almost engages but not quite. I can then get under the bonnet and supply 12V to the solenoid and the car will start every time. It then runs as normal. I've spent many hours tracing circuits, and I think the problem is the ECU (body control module) which sits behind the driver side fuse panel. I'm about to purchase a wrecked one, and expect I'll then need an auto-elec to recode the keys to suit. I've been quoted $2300 by the Nissan dealer to do this work, which I declined to pay. Has anyone been down this path?
 
mbouy said:
Hi all, hoping to find some help with a thorny starter problem. I have a 2010 2WD Koleos, which has been trouble-free for years but now will only occasionally start. I've done all the usual things and I'm confident it's a computer problem, not an electro-mechanical one. When I push the start button, there is clicking and some action and sometimes the starter solenoid almost engages but not quite. I can then get under the bonnet and supply 12V to the solenoid and the car will start every time. It then runs as normal. I've spent many hours tracing circuits, and I think the problem is the ECU (body control module) which sits behind the driver side fuse panel. I'm about to purchase a wrecked one, and expect I'll then need an auto-elec to recode the keys to suit. I've been quoted $2300 by the Nissan dealer to do this work, which I declined to pay. Has anyone been down this path?
Click to expand...
Not knowing what you have looked at so far, but the fact that you are getting at least some clicking action, I suggest the control module is supplying a correct signal, but the full 12 volts is not being relayed to the starter. Is there a starter relay in the system - I would think so. That would be my first check, after of course, the main battery, which can do strange things.
Many of our older members would have come across similar problem on older cars, where the voltage drop through the old ignition key circuit was just enough to click the starter solenoid but not turn the engine over. This was often cured by installing a separate relay to convey full 12v through a shorter path direct from the battery, with slightly heavier wiring to reduce the voltage drop.
Good luck.
 
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