I think low beam is better than the later D's with 4 headlights ... My memory of them is a pathetically feeble puddle of "yellow" light barely lighting up a scrap of road infront of the car.
But if you don't drive on rainy days you don't get to laugh at the ineffectual hand clap wipers flapping away :roflmao: You also dont' get to blindly reach over and do the "Nope, choke, nope interior light, nope etc.... while madly searching for the wiper switch while screen gets harder and harder to see through :roflmao:
You would think they would put something as important as the wipers and indictors as the closest switches right
I could not find wiper switch! Because not like modern car no illuminations! And When I started drive it, I also could not find indicator lever, too! I was going to put small led torch nearby night time so I can see all the switches!
Torch ... It's a fancy car, it has an interior light you can use ............................. It's just one of those switches, if you can find it :roflmao: (hint, the one that pulls out is the choke, the one that bounces back under your touch is the washers). The rest should do "something" if pulled.
The hardest bit about the indicators is knowing if the damn things are still flashing or not..... Or even if there bloody working at all. They rarely flash through the switch like they should, and the car is so noisy it drowns any mechanical sounds of the switch out.
I ran one of the indian guys home from work yesterday. He kept asking "where does the warm air come out" .... Hmm... she's running on full choke, has been running for about 2minutes and has only an engine driven fan for pushing air inside. I found it very hard to explain "no, there's no warm air ... not until the engine is warm anyway... and it sure as hell won't 'blow' at you with any force".... "no mate, that vents blows cold .... Ok, open it then if you must, you'll get plenty of air from it once were moving"
seeya,
Shane L.
"spark control " knob actually do? I can hear something changes when I turn it.
So basically don`t touch it?
Well.... I did not do anything in "timing department" so I don`t know.
..... Likely enough for several cars too!
Well I thought I'd take a look at that heater....
The outer frame ... bend back the two tags and it just pulls away.
Using a small propane torch I just melted the solder, blowing any that didn't fall or scrape off away with an air hose.
Hmmm... No idea why not much heat was coming out of this one.
The bottom tank wasn't much better.
there would have been a lot of airflow through it too.
I scratched my head for a while try to think what "rod" I could push through each tube. A hacksaw blade ground down seemed an obvious choice. Nice and blunt so I didn't stake any of the tubes. the last 3 tubes I stuggled to clear, so ground a much sharper point onto the hacksaw blade. It did take quite a lot of time to clear those few tubes, so I can see why it wouldn't be cheap to pay someone to do this.
I just need to find out what is the best solder/flux to use to solder it back together.
seeya,
Shane L.
I used to think radiator cleaning was expensive, but it's very time consuming work trying to clean out the tubes without damaging them.
This is one job that I will always leave to a specialist! There are just too many pitfalls for the inexperienced!I used a torch, though a soldering iron would be ok. I've pulled two heater cores apart now. It appears the tubes are just corroded away where they enter the tanks. The act of cleaning any that arent' leaky ... causes them too leak. I think I'll need to chase up a new heater core and solder the tanks onto it. I'll get some steel wool today and try to tidy solder up any leaky tubes. I can't solder them unless there shiny clean... getting the area around the tubes clean is difficult.
I whipped the tanks off the radiator with the best looking core last night. I'd say the tubes are all 50% blocked
seeya,
Shane L.
On lifting the bonnet I can see a few drips of coolant on the top edge of the radiator. I scratched my finger nail over the "white'ish" looking stuff on the edge of the top tank, and coolant started spurting from a tiny crack in the corner of the radiators top tank cracking the radiator cap stopped it leaking. I'll solder that up tonight and verify it's only a 4psi cap fitted.
Be carful not heat too much as all of top solder might melt and destroy it. Mine had same problem and I tried to blow torch silver solder but I Now I learned, normal solder should have been used. So mine was destroyed . I took mine to PRO and bill was over $400.00. Now I am scare of leaking radiator.I'll be damned .... How did the blue ID know I'd been tinkering with radiators. It hasn't been started in a few weeks, but it fired right up so I drove it to work today.... Just as well the coffee women turned up in her van. I went out and spot a growing patch of coolant under it
Gee's if i'd driven it any distance I'd probably have destroyed the motor before I noticed the coolant level was low. Fitting a low coolant sensor to these old cars is probably a sensible move.
seeya,
Shane L.
Man put new copper core , he said copper is expensive now. No wonder people steal copper wires from power station.
