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Is this the best project car you have ever seen?

pav266

New member
The grease on the front rims looks familiar. I just cleaned mine this weekend. There had to be at least that much dried up grease on mine.
I guess the good news is that at least the prior owner took care to have it greased.
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
The grease on the front rims looks familiar. I just cleaned mine this weekend. There had to be at least that much dried up grease on mine.
I guess the good news is that at least the prior owner took care to have it greased.
Yep, it's amazing how it's stuck on ... It's like thick black immovable tar.

As for nearly out of tricks :confused: I'm barely even started yet, there's probably another few hundred hours of work to go into the car .... For starters it needs a splash of paint, and about 1/2million other minor jobs done.... Someday, when we get to it :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
Finally a chance to look at the old ID19's.....

First thing is I need to repair a bonnet to fit too the shiny blue ID19 after a I destoyed it..... It would be nice to drive this again now the weather is improving.



It's been sitting covered in dust sulking since I put it's bonnet over the roof :(





This was one of the best 2nd nose 'D' bonnets I'd ever come across :( Dead straight and crack free.



Even at the front it wasn't cracked ....



This is the best replacement bonnet I have here. Very straight, especially across the front where most have been dented by stupid people that push on them in the middle to try and close the catches on the sides.





It is cracked down one side though. The alloy has a big high spot next to this crack. I'm guessing it's been closed against something at one point. :confused: I spent some time with a hammer and dolly and very gently worked the area in front of the high bit off dolly.... tapping the high bit and lifting the low bit beside it.. I now have a slight high there I'll need to shrink. Fingers crossed I can figure a way of shrinking aluminium without destroying it ..... metal would be dead simple (using the shrinking disc).

The replacement bonnets front point ...



The ugly pink car in the same spot ....



So I have 3 cracks in the two ID's here to fix. I'm thinking I should cut big strengthening gussets out of the bent blue bonnet and using panel adhesive glue the gussets to the back of the cracked areas on the bonnets. I don't want to rivet to attach the gussets as that just creates a load point for it to crack around again (the rivets). Welding the cracks up won't work ... it'll just crack again. I'm thinking panel adhesive will spread the load over a large area and prevent it cracking again :confused: I'd check the other bonnets on my father cars too and glue a gusset behind this area even if there not cracked yet (once you open the panel adhesive, you might as well use as much as possible before it gets thrown in the bin).

How have others fixed cracks and shrunk high areas in aluminium ?

seeya,
Shane L.
 

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DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
The pink/brown car looks beautiful INMHO. Definitely a colour of its era. It would be a real shame if it disappeared.
Yeah the pink one sure is ugly..... I'm keen on the red used on one of the guys C4's at work. It looks spectacular when clean. It's a really deep cherry type red.

The blue one would look way nicer if it's bonnet didn't have an exact imprint of the windscreen/roof in it :(

seeya,
Shane L.
 

Hotrodelectric

Now go make me a sandwich
Nah, I struggle enough with a MIG. Certainly TIG'ing the cracks closed, then bracing behind them would be ideal.....

Have you ever tried these :confused:

ULTRA BOND aluminium repair rods 5PC PACK - Robson's Tool King Store
I haven't, no. The closest thing I get to welding is silver soldering. The only aluminum I handle is either for making a box for a module of some sort, or a beer or soda can. I wonder what it would take to fire some of that up for a trial run.

Edit: That looks pretty easy. As with anything like this, you'll need to practice. Some beer cans to a busted hood it is!
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
I haven't, no. The closest thing I get to welding is silver soldering. The only aluminum I handle is either for making a box for a module of some sort, or a beer or soda can. I wonder what it would take to fire some of that up for a trial run.

Edit: That looks pretty easy. As with anything like this, you'll need to practice. Some beer cans to a busted hood it is!
I can see a million and one uses for them. I might buy in a few rods and see if they work as suggested. If they do they'll be worth there weight in gold. You could "weld" the patch to the back of the stress zones and spread the bracing loads way out across a large area.

actually come to think of it. You wouldn't weld a patch in ... You would use one or two rods and spreed an even layer of the welding rod out over the whole area of the stress fracture. It will strengthen the entire area.
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
Oh man ... I don't believe it ..... My grease gun is a bastard thing too bleed after you put a new cartridge into it ... But I figured it was time to to go over all the grease points on the Range Rover ..... 25minutes of swearing at the steaming pile of sh!+ until I finally got it working..... Looking at the big puddle of LHM under the nose of the pink ID19 I thought it was time for it too have a spin before touching anything else. So I put it up on the ramps...

Big leak equals loose hose clamp on the bottom of the reservoir (how dumb am I, that has probably cost me $40 in LHM over winter with it sitting). I also found one brake caliper wet. Fingers crossed that's one of the hose connections on top (they weren't very tight at all) otherwise the caliper is coming back out (bugger!!).

Why am I saying "stupid, stupid shane" ....again.... Well I spent a lot of time chasing a weird whine and vibration like an out of balance wheel that was the worst at 50->55mph... that was definitely drivers side side... I also found everything in the car appeared to be mechanically like new ( eg: rear suspension pushrods and balls). Yet strangely one front tierod ball joints on the drivers side steering relay had slop (strange given that's the side that stays on the nice sealed road).

Your not going to believe how dumb I really am....I wire brushed the grease nipples.... When I fitted the driveshafts, I greased the inner joints up all nicely with CV grease and stitched on some boots.... The outside I didn't worry about... There always so full of grease from over-greasing the inner wheel gets loaded up with grease..... Well I pumped a good solid forty pumps of grease into each driveshaft outer ... and there is still no evidence that there full :eek: I even took it for a drive to try and move the grease through the joints..... The damn things must have been bone dry ... and the vibration was the dry joint not wanting to articulate at speed :eek: 4 pumps of grease into the inner tierod balljoint... and it's now rock solid.... 100% of the slop has dissapeared (WTF ?).

So there you go.... if you have weird issues with your DS ... check, it might not have been greased in 50years. I'll keep putting another 10pumps of grease into the outer joints until they start slinging grease after it's driven and call that enough for the next 50years!

seeya,
Shane L.
 

gerrypro

1000+ Posts
You do realise that when you grease a D driveshaft all you are greasing is the central ball and spigot joint. The uni crosses are pre-packed and get nothing. So forty strokes will be excessive. These shafts are just oversized traction shafts in their construction!
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
Where is all the grease going :confused: I'll have to find an exploded diagram of the joint. It show absolutley not signs of being even remotely full :roflmao:

The inner joints were packed with new boots when I put the car together :)
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
check this out .... it's actually possible to wear out a DS driveshaft... I wonder how many million kms it's done!

 

gerrypro

1000+ Posts
Where is all the grease going :confused: I'll have to find an exploded diagram of the joint. It show absolutley not signs of being even remotely full :roflmao:

The inner joints were packed with new boots when I put the car together :)
It is leaking past the ball cup seal and into the spaces surrounding the double crosses. The seal on the ball cup is only nitrile rubber. In a traction it is a soldered set of tin cups and cork seals. Over greasing these with a high powered gun bursts the soldered seams!
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
It is leaking past the ball cup seal and into the spaces surrounding the double crosses. The seal on the ball cup is only nitrile rubber. In a traction it is a soldered set of tin cups and cork seals. Over greasing these with a high powered gun bursts the soldered seams!
Oh good, it won't hurt to get some fresh grease into the double crosses either! :)

seeya,
Shane L.
 

gerrypro

1000+ Posts
Oh good, it won't hurt to get some fresh grease into the double crosses either! :)

seeya,
Shane L.
To do that you would need to completely dismantle he crosses and cups and needle rollers. The seals on the cups prevent any fresh grease from getting into the needles. The excess grease in the joint will only work its way out past the large rubber boot on the out side of the joint. It will then neatly coat the wheel arch!
 

DoubleChevron

Real cars have hydraulics
To do that you would need to completely dismantle the crosses and cups and needle rollers. The seals on the cups prevent any fresh grease from getting into the needles. The excess grease in the joint will only work its way out past the large rubber boot on the out side of the joint. It will then neatly coat the wheel arch
That's what I was waiting for :roflmao: That way I was sure it was full ! I certainly don't want to dismantle these driveshafts!

seeya,
Shane L.
 
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