The Triton website shows quite a few different flashers for different purposes. More reading to do..
Electrickery question.
- Thread starter 56 Fregate
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Mrs has been asking the same question, in the meanwhile she had me replace couple of fence posts and couple of dozen fence palings, paint the house, organise old driveway to be ripped up and new aggregate concrete driveway laid (the concreters bobcat driver managed to drop couple of half pavers down the sewerage inspection hole, resulting in effluent back up), new laundry, wardrobe inserts, various Ikea products assembled, arrange and order new kitchen and new kitchen appliances, the kitchen n appliances are in my garage workspace waiting for the kitchen installation in June. etc etc, I know its excuses, but it's all I have, but you are right I'll have to stop the procrastination, right after I replace the termite riddled rear fence and fix part of the sleeper retaining wall. Good thing I am retired.
What is the car?
The EP range is load sensitive, ADR requires post 1990 vehicles to blink fast when a bulb is blown.
If your dash has separate left and right indicator bulbs then use HD12, if a single bulb on dash then use HD13, these don't care how many bulbs in the circuit.
Thankyou AB, yes I agree re HD13. I'll grab one on the morrow and get started.
Mini’s have a voltage reducer for certain gauges on their binnacle for some reason - 12v down to a lower voltage that escapes me (But it’s not 6v). A friend on the Sunshine Coast used to make electronic versions. I could possibly put you in touch. He could maybe customise the voltage if needed.
KB
KB
Thanks KB but I reckon I have it sorted.
Mini’s have a voltage reducer for certain gauges on their binnacle for some reason - 12v down to a lower voltage that escapes me (But it’s not 6v).
KB
Minis used a voltage stabilizer that kept the volts to the fuel gauge at a steady 10V. A lot of old cars used them (of a variety of voltages) to stop the gauge's readings fluctuating with systemic voltage changes resulting from the changes in charge and load.
KB
Minis used a voltage stabilizer that kept the volts to the fuel gauge at a steady 10V. A lot of old cars used them (of a variety of voltages) to stop the gauge's readings fluctuating with systemic voltage changes resulting from the changes in charge and load.
good move on the white goods, you could have been waiting for months if you had left it any longer ,hope you arnt in a flood zone ,been raining here solid all day
That also allows you to connect left and right circuits with a switch, giving hazard flashers. Worked well for me.
I have all the bits, I have the know how and I have a few croissant crumbs to add the french content. I just have to find time to assemble it all, but I'll get there. 
Couple of sips of this will get you started.I have all the bits, I have the know how and I have a few croissant crumbs to add the french content. I just have to find time to assemble it all, but I'll get there.
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Hi Graham now just for the fun, after you get your new system working, how about this !
Take the Scintex unit above and connect a full set of wires to all the terminals and bind them in a harness long enough to go out of view nearby.
Then bolt the unit in a conspicuous place in the car. Everyone will want to know what is 'that thing there'
. You can supply various answers depending on your mood at the time and what you think of the questioner ??Jaahn
Yeah I have priors on that. When I converted Genevieve to 12 volts I ripped the guts out of my old 6 volt Smiths regulator and dummy wired it into the harness with the real connecting wires secretly going elsewhere. No one has questioned it yet.
Yes, I understand that.
What I am not clear about is whether you want to use single filament globes or double.
They will be twin filament globes but one will be used for the tail light/parker while the brake light filament will be shared with the indicator. All will be revealed in due course when I get the thing built.
I see. The indicator filament is going to be 21 watts.
And you are hellbent on using that 6V item above?
Much easier if you didn't.
And you are hellbent on using that 6V item above?
Much easier if you didn't.
OMG Schiltzy have a read will yer.. I'm building a new 12 volt one.
There you go I've made a start with a custom tin box. I think I made one just like it in primary school except I need to use a sharpie instead of a scribe mark these days .
Sorry, I was confused by the first post.
To close off this thread I offer an update for whoever heads down the same path.
I ended up going with the circuitry shown by this guy below, it's really simple and actually works. I bought a 5 pack of relays on ebay for $18.50 and used a HD13 Triton flasher can. Otherwise I made a stylish Renault sheet metal box from scrap and other bits'n'bobs, nothing to it really. I also added a dash light function to my circuit.
I ended up going with the circuitry shown by this guy below, it's really simple and actually works. I bought a 5 pack of relays on ebay for $18.50 and used a HD13 Triton flasher can. Otherwise I made a stylish Renault sheet metal box from scrap and other bits'n'bobs, nothing to it really. I also added a dash light function to my circuit.