Electrickery question.

56 Fregate

56 Fregate

Well-known member
VIP Paid Subscriber
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Oct 31, 2010
Messages
38,102
Location
Beautiful New England
Chaps I am desirous of using one of these 6 volt Scintex flasher units so I can combine the rear indicators with the stop lights as in the lower diagram in a 12 volt car. I am unsure how the flasher will behave with the higher voltage and how I could slow it down if it flashes too quickly. They were used in 50s Renaults and Peugeots. American cars had a version as well.

Any ideas..?

02075e10.jpg
79762010.jpg
 
Graham :) I think I would make an electronic voltage supply to reduce it to about 7 volts at the + terminal. That is about half the usual 12V which is actually about 14+V. The amps required look modest so a simple supply would be ok if it has a heat sink. But that would need 6V globes. A qualified person might give a circuit and parts required. It will flash madly at 12V like those old units did.

I guess the aim is to use the stop light bulb as a blinker on that side, thus saving extra super expensive globes, like they did back in the day :oops: Gees what a great idea that was. I believe even Holdens did that too in the FE FC etc series. Those designers must be shocked at the profligracy of lights in modern cars !! :cry:
Jaahn
 
59 Floride (sold) said:
Chaps I am desirous of using one of these 6 volt Scintex flasher units so I can combine the rear indicators with the stop lights as in the lower diagram in a 12 volt car. I am unsure how the flasher will behave with the higher voltage and how I could slow it down if it flashes too quickly. They were used in 50s Renaults and Peugeots. American cars had a version as well.

Any ideas..?

View attachment 202257View attachment 202258
Click to expand...
Gee that's interesting! I've never seen that circuitry before. I've often wondered how they did it!
 
Thanks Jaahn, I want to go to a 12 volt system mainly for cranking power and lights. I do already have a variable power supply but that doesn't give me bright lights. Maybe I should have a look around and see if there are 12 volt versions of the above, I just happened to have the Scintex unit in consolidated hoardage.

Assuming there were a project of course...G
 
Actually, just looking at that circuit it would be easy enough to use a new 12 volt 3 pin flasher can and install a standard 12 volt relay between the brake light and blinkers on each side. :unsure: That wouldn't be too hard surely, then I can keep everything 12 volts.

Dang that would work.

1648213048402.png
1648213184765.png
1648213210394.png
 
Last edited:
I am not sure I understand, do you want to use that 6V unit in a 12V car?

And this is going to achieve what, using the low power (or the high power?) filament in a brake globe to flash? Or do you plan to use single filament rears?

In principle you need to drop the voltage for the coils in that unit. That is easily achieved but you have one globe wired in series with the coil so not so easy anymore. And because of that, I would suggest you use separation relays on that circuit. Keep the 6V unit on 6V (separate 6V supply by dropping 12 to 6) and have separate 12V relays actuated by the unit to control the globes. You also need a correct load for the globe wired in series with the coil.

But yes, I see you have realised it can be done with two modern relays. just need to be careful if trying to flash the high power filament, you're going to have higher currents than an usual indicator globe.
 
Schultzman, I'm trying to negate the need for stand alone rear indicators in a 12 volt car. The front will have added motorcycle flashers. Some old automobiles have brake lights that flash (yes red), it's a thing. But as in #5 I am working up a circuit using separate relays. Stand by for the solution.
 
My Studebaker is 12V and uses the brake lights for turn signals. Never really thought about how they work, I guess they have something similar to the unit in the original post?

If you reduced the voltage to 7V as suggested couldn't you just run a wire off the voltage reducer to the brake light circuit as well and just have 6V globes for the brakes/flashers?

Alternatively what would happen if you used a step up convertor back to 12V after the flasher unit???

Maybe bench wire it with a couple of 12v globes and see what it does. It may well flash correctly with 12Vs running through it anyway.🤷‍♂️
 
Graham that might work but needs some more parts and a redesign.
If the brake lights are wired to the relay NC terminals then the relays will go back to them when not powered. The relays need coil power to pull them on and enable the globe to be blinkers.
If you powered the relay coils from after the switch as shown it would be through the flasher so that would not work.
But if you move the flasher unit to-(after the switch and the relay feed, and move the supply + to the switch input and redo the front blinker connections to the flasher, it should work.
Good luck, Jaahn
 
Last edited:
Thanks Fellas. Yes I am committed to going with a version of post#8. That DWG was cobbled together at 11:51 pm so not my finest hour. Yes I will get it to work and I seem to have enough parts in consolidated hoardage to construct it though I should start with a new flasher unit. Essentially I will be reproducing a 12 volt version of post #1. I'll put it all in a small clearly labeled tin box so as not to confuse some future auto elec.

Now all I have to do is stop sleeping because it is interfering with production :sleepy:
 
jaahn said:
Graham that might work but needs some more parts and a redesign.
If the brake lights are wired to the relay NC terminals then the relays will go back to them when not powered. The relays need coil power to pull them on and enable the globe to be blinkers.
If you powered the relay coils from after the switch as shown it would be through the flasher so that would not work.
But if you move the flasher unit to-(after the switch and the relay feed, and move the supply + to the switch input and redo the front blinker connections to the flasher, it should work.
Good luck, Jaahn
Click to expand...
The coils for the left and right relays are not shown in the diagram, only the change over contacts from brake lights to indicators.

Also most modern indicator/brake light globes are either 18 or 21 watt. The flasher unit that you use will be the deciding factor on globe size.
 
Use the 2pin or 3pin Non Load Sensitive tridon flasher, choice depends on how the dash turn indicator bulb(s) is wired.



flasher.jpg
 
Unfortunately this project is not permitted for NSW historic vehicles, a few years back they banned flashing brake lamps.

"Direction indicators – can be white or amber (amber is preferred). The style must be in keeping with the defined period of the vehicle. Brake lamps flashing red for direction indicators are not acceptable."

Code: 
https://www.nsw.gov.au/topics/vehicle-registration/how-to/historic-vehicles/period-options-accessories
 
you could use your scintex on the variable voltage supply to drive two 6 volt relays[ possibly 12 volts would work ] ,to switch a 12 volt supply to the globes, that is if red indicators are legal in QLD,
 
Queensland Light Vehicle Inspection Manual, latest version September 2021 states:

2.2h) rear facing signal indicator lamps (yellow/amber/red prior to 1973).

Also front turn signals can be amber or white prior to 1973.
 
Greenpeace said:
Queensland Light Vehicle Inspection Manual, latest version September 2021 states:

2.2h) rear facing signal indicator lamps (yellow/amber/red prior to 1973).

Also front turn signals can be amber or white prior to 1973.
Click to expand...
Ripper. I thank Joh for that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top