Car ID

Wildebeest said:
Overfinch,
I didn't want to complicate the issue when posting earlier.
Before removing your distributor have the rotor point to No 1 cylinder on the dist. body.* Also mark the distributor position before removing from the block, scratch mark or paint dot. Also mark the front pulley with paint.
Remember No 1 cylinder is at the rear [flywheel] end of the engine. All this will simplify the basic timing for start up.

* If I recall Bosch distributors have a notch on the body indicating No 1 cyl.
Once again,
All the best.
Click to expand...
Not complicated at all Mr. Wildebeest [emoji23] [emoji23] . I'll leave that untouched until I get someone who won't cock everything up. Meanwhile, removed a shot gear seal and stabilizer with eroded Bush.
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New bushes for the stabilizers and the oil seal procured. Only missing thing is the broken rubber ring. Can't seem to get it anywhere at the dealers'. Also came across a new 'used' brake master cylinder in better Nick than mine.

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Overfinch,
"Broken rubber ring". Isn't that the seal pictured top left post #43 I presume it is the grease seal for the front hub?

To determine the m/cyl condition it will need dismantling [you knew that :wink2:].
To remove the pistons etc from the cylinder. First remove the plastic reservoir and the two rubber grommets. Looking down into the two holes you will see a roll pin in each. To remove these to enable the piston to be withdrawn, I use a small self tapping screw that will fit inside the roll pin. Screw this in until it grabs then withdraw the screw and pin with pliers.
Now you can remove the piston, clean out the bore with rag and hot water. Inspect for rust/corrosion etc. [hot water OK at this stage].
If the bores are ok, an overhaul kit will do. If corroded they may need honing out or at the extreme, resleeving.
To final clean use methylated spirit or Brake Kleen. Re-assemble with rubber grease.

I trust all this hasn't filled your head too much!
 
Wildebeest said:
Overfinch,
"Broken rubber ring". Isn't that the seal pictured top left post #43 I presume it is the grease seal for the front hub?

To determine the m/cyl condition it will need dismantling [you knew that :wink2:].
To remove the pistons etc from the cylinder. First remove the plastic reservoir and the two rubber grommets. Looking down into the two holes you will see a roll pin in each. To remove these to enable the piston to be withdrawn, I use a small self tapping screw that will fit inside the roll pin. Screw this in until it grabs then withdraw the screw and pin with pliers.
Now you can remove the piston, clean out the bore with rag and hot water. Inspect for rust/corrosion etc. [hot water OK at this stage].
If the bores are ok, an overhaul kit will do. If corroded they may need honing out or at the extreme, resleeving.
To final clean use methylated spirit or Brake Kleen. Re-assemble with rubber grease.

I trust all this hasn't filled your head too much!
Click to expand...
Hello Wildebeest,

The broken rubber ring was removed in the vicinity of the drive shaft connection to the gears. The original seal was half metallic but my mechanic says a rubber seal would still work, which I got. The issue is that broken rubber ring. The parts shops know what it is but no one has it. I may need to have someone craft one. We have guys down here who make rubber parts that cannot be found by hand from old tyres. They make bushes from the tyres and all manner of other rubber fittings.
I didn't know what you told me about the master cylinder. My mechanic checked whether it had smooth travel and it did and he passed it fit. I'll ask him to service it as you prescribe. Always a pleasure...

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Overfinch said:
Hello Wildebeest,

The broken rubber ring was removed in the vicinity of the drive shaft connection to the gears. The original seal was half metallic but my mechanic says a rubber seal would still work, which I got. The issue is that broken rubber ring. The parts shops know what it is but no one has it. I may need to have someone craft one. We have guys down here who make rubber parts that cannot be found by hand from old tyres. They make bushes from the tyres and all manner of other rubber fittings.
I didn't know what you told me about the master cylinder. My mechanic checked whether it had smooth travel and it did and he passed it fit. I'll ask him to service it as you prescribe. Always a pleasure...

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Click to expand...
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The broken rubber ring is on the right. It's was removed from the drive shaft region n together with the seal on the left. The seal is half metallic and half rubber. It's identical in shape to a bearing seal. The mechanic told me that the rubber seal would still work. The broken ring is what's becoming a bother to trace.

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Overfinch said:
b3e13bf839f2029b5a1f1aa9086787e9.jpg


The broken rubber ring is on the right. It's was removed from the drive shaft region n together with the seal on the left. The seal is half metallic and half rubber. It's identical in shape to a bearing seal. The mechanic told me that the rubber seal would still work. The broken ring is what's becoming a bother to trace.

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Click to expand...


Overfinch,
I had a look through my 504 parts book today.
The seal at the rear of the gearbox is Part Number. 2362.05.
The measurements are. 38.8x58.2x 10 mm.

There is no sign of two rings/seals in the parts illustrations.
I'm wondering if they are one and have just come apart? The measurements may answer the question.

Regards.
Wildebeest
 
Wildebeest said:
Overfinch,
I had a look through my 504 parts book today.
The seal at the rear of the gearbox is Part Number. 2362.05.
The measurements are. 38.8x58.2x 10 mm.

There is no sign of two rings/seals in the parts illustrations.
I'm wondering if they are one and have just come apart? The measurements may answer the question.

Regards.
Wildebeest
Click to expand...
Thanks mate. We got stuck. In earlier today returning the propeller and the drive shaft. Had grease as old as the car itself. Oiled up the differential, and gave the old gal a spin
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You can see the 'engineering' team hard at work.

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Wildebeest said:
Overfinch,
I had a look through my 504 parts book today.
The seal at the rear of the gearbox is Part Number. 2362.05.
The measurements are. 38.8x58.2x 10 mm.

There is no sign of two rings/seals in the parts illustrations.
I'm wondering if they are one and have just come apart? The measurements may answer the question.

Regards.
Wildebeest
Click to expand...
Hey there mate. We eventually got the part off a shredders'. It is a doughnut shaped part and barely resembles the sample. That's how worn the sample was. Anyway, everything fit back apart from the drive shaft which really took some muscle to fit into the propeller with the new seals in.

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Overfinch,
Hello again.
I think that you won't have any under bonnet clearance for this type of filter.
I have found that any air filters I have adapted to Solex or Weber carburetors other than the standard "low profile" type has had a problem with clearance.

The sports type filters fitted OK but in my opinion they would only filter out stones and small birds!
 
Have been up and down our capital looking for door locks. My front passenger door is shut solid. Won't budge. Most of the shops had closed early but came across a shop that had brand new solex carburettors! Piles of them! Its surprising that I can get these parts brand new or second hand, depends on what I prefer. Most of my peers had discouraged my choice of car citing unavailability of parts but I am yet to encounter any real trouble in getting any part.

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Overfinch,
Door lock problems are brought on by the grease used as original lubrication hardening to a cheese like consistency.
You will need to remove the lock mechanism. Yes, you will somehow have to remove the interior trim etc.
Once removed clean the old grease from the lock, kero or diesel. Lubricate initially with oil while working the mechanism, use a general purpose grease when refitting to the door.
Like the original grease on the mechanism it will attract dust but it should take another 30 years before you have any more trouble !
 
From the pics, the door handles on your car appear to be the later recessed ones. Sometimes, firmly bumping up against the door while attempting to open the door will result in successful door opening. I've had several 504s that did this and is worth a try.
 
The door gave in yesterday after the spirited efforts of three burly men. I got a used door mechanism. I'll post a picture of what was removed. Had been used off its hinges, literally. Now I have to get a new lock. Its in a state of disrepair as well.

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Wildebeest said:
Overfinch,
Door lock problems are brought on by the grease used as original lubrication hardening to a cheese like consistency.
You will need to remove the lock mechanism. Yes, you will somehow have to remove the interior trim etc.
Once removed clean the old grease from the lock, kero or diesel. Lubricate initially with oil while working the mechanism, use a general purpose grease when refitting to the door.
Like the original grease on the mechanism it will attract dust but it should take another 30 years before you have any more trouble !
Click to expand...
Yes I did notice the cheesy layer, on both locks actually, damaged and replacement. It was cleaned with petrol so p good level of flexibility. The damaged part had missing springs and had been heavily modified over the years

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Overfinch said:
New brake rear wheel slave cylinder going in

View attachment 92224View attachment 92225View attachment 92226

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Click to expand...
Happy new year folks,

Had 'non existent' brakes for a bit this January. Was a bit of a head scratcher situation with the new wheel cylinder in. Woke up one Sunday morning to find the rear right wheel brake line had peed itself. The line had welding spots all over it and had a little nick that was the source of the leak. Disrepair at its best. Check it out...
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Anyway was replaced with a new one. I thought that was that and then another shocker, I still had to pump the breaks. I called in the cavalry and we found that the right front brake piston was not responsive. It was dismantled and cleaned (was clogged with dirt and grime) and then another thing cropped up, a broken hub bearing! Anyway all that was sorted out and now the brake is up to spec.

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