Car ID

O

Overfinch

Member
Fellow Frogger
Joined
Nov 8, 2016
Messages
117
Location
NAIROBI, KENYA
Hello folks,

I'm Ronald from Nairobi, Kenya. I'm a huge fan of the 504. I recently bought one. It's a four speed unit and the log book gives an assembly date of 88. Would anyone know or tell me how to get specifics of this build? Photos attached
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Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
Hi Ronald,

504s are the best Pugs ever stuck together! Had mine since new December 1973 build. Still love it.

Not sue what specifics you need, though have you tried "Google" 504? There should be tons of info there.

Good luck and have fun. :)
 
Hello Big RR,

Would you have engine specifics for this model e.g. engine number? I've seen some numbers in previous threads like XN1 and the like and I don't know which this one is. I also have a few questions. What would you recommend for shock absorbers? I was told that I'd have to repair the ones that came with the car. How would I know if my wheel bearings are worn out? There is a grating sound that comes from the wheels but I can only hear it in the cabin. It feels like worn shocks but I can tell is from the wheels. Also, what kind of fuel efficiency should I expect from a properly maintained pug? Mine is currently something close to 8-9 KM per litre.
I'll get more questions in as soon as I have them coz I have some way to go before I am literate enough on matters pugs.

Regards,
Ronald.
 
Another question (I'm on a bit of a roll here) to anyone who can help, I've been advised that I could improve my fuel consumption if I switch from the point distributor to a magneto distributor. Is this true?
 
Ronald,
Welcome! From what I can make of your photos your 504 could have the 1800cc XM7 engine. I notice what appears to be a single throat carb ? [Solex] There is or was a 504 L model with live rear axle [not independant].
We didn't get the '88 year model in Aus. By then the 505 had arrived.
 
"8-9 KM per liter" not too bad.

Mine would only obtain 10 at most (Open road cruising)! :)
 
The bonnet stay is the same as on my 1980 504. Others will be able to confirm but, to me it looks like an 1800. In Australia, 504s stopped being sold with trapezoidal headlights in either 1971 or 1972.

You probably know this already but you really need to find and fit the rubber boot that goes between the air filter outlet and the carburettor input to stop dirt and dust getting into the engine.
 
Peter Chisholm said:
The bonnet stay is the same as on my 1980 504. Others will be able to confirm but, to me it looks like an 1800. In Australia, 504s stopped being sold with trapezoidal headlights in either 1971 or 1972.

You probably know this already but you really need to find and fit the rubber boot that goes between the air filter outlet and the carburettor input to stop dirt and dust getting into the engine.
Click to expand...
Hi Pete,

Which section are you referring to specifically? Is it the part that connects the air filter to the carburetor? I occasionally find its fallen off and have to fasten it over and over

Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
Wildebeest said:
Ronald,
Welcome! From what I can make of your photos your 504 could have the 1800cc XM7 engine. I notice what appears to be a single throat carb ? [Solex] There is or was a 504 L model with live rear axle [not independant].
We didn't get the '88 year model in Aus. By then the 505 had arrived.
Click to expand...
Hi,

It's an honor to hear from the legendary Wildebeest.
Engine bay photos as promised. What exactly is a single throat carb? Carburetor perhaps?

Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app
 
Overfinch said:
Hi Pete,

Which section are you referring to specifically? Is it the part that connects the air filter to the carburetor? I occasionally find its fallen off and have to fasten it over and over

Sent from my Infinix-X600-LTE using aussiefrogs mobile app
Click to expand...

Yes, that's the part I mean. With the proper clamps it should stay in place unless the clamps are faulty or something isn't original and doesn't line up corrrectly. It's very important.

If it's not too much of a hassle, I'd be interested to see some other photos of the car including the interior to see what the differences between it and my old retired '80 504 are.
 
Overfinch,
Yes, the carburetor. We are quick to adopt ,sadly, Americanisms. The single carburetor would establish the engine as the XM7 type.
1800cc and having slightly lower compression for the 'colonies'.
The air filter [dry element] is not one I've seen previously. The advice given to secure to the carburetor are well found, the conditions in Kenya being similar to Australia.
Did it have a shroud around the radiator fan, possibly discarded ?

As for the ignition, magnetos are old technology. Search for the "123" or the cheaper simpler "Power Spark". Have one of the latter on my 504, quick cold and hot starting. No points to worry about.

The French Alanquin my spelling, are available, these like most are inserts, no rebuilding required.

The noises you are experiencing sound like worn brake pads or small stones caught in the pads ? Does it stop/change if you ride the brakes?

Regards,
Wildebeest
 
Hi Stuey,

Yes. :worship:. Conceded. That's where the name came from. Overfinch are ridiculously good at interiors. They make a conventional range rover look simple, a feat in itself. Hope to own one as soon as financial fortunes positively (and drastically) change.
:2cents:
 
Hi Wildebeest,

Would you happen to know whether the power spark mounting/ 123 mounting and the point distributor mounting are similar? I think that would be critical. The pug totally refused to start this morning, its been pretty cold and wet in Nairobi. Should have wrapped the engine in a blanket last night :D. Whats a french alanquin? I'll give you a brief of the issues that were there when I bought the car:

Differing brake calipers: right wheel pug pick up, left a broken saloon caliper
Worn brake master cylinder and shot left back wheel brake slave cylinder
Cracked gear box housing
different makes of spark plugs
clogged radiator
non functional fuel indicator
shot starter solenoid
dead ball joints, tie rods and rack ends
dead brakes with biscuit thin pads
leaking brake line

The issues read like an essay and I haven't exhausted them. I bought the because the body was in preety good nick for a car that age but still has several unaddressed issues. Finances are an issue too but I'm plugging away. I bought it for 1780 Aussie dollars. A good deal I think. Especially as the corrosion is quite minimal.
For the brakes, what do you mean when you say 'riding the brakes'? I switched the front calipers to a set of second hand ones in good condition and they came with new pads (shocking!). I suspect the bearings, but how would I know without taking the bearings off? Any ideas? Also do I need to look for a shroud for the radiator or its fine as is?
Thanks for the guidance folks.
 
Last edited:
The radiator shroud helps channel air more effectively through the radiator which, in turn, means better cooling. I'd fit one.

From the photos, the body does indeed look pretty good so I can well understand your decision to buy it.
 
Overfinch,
Where do we start?

I understand that the "123" ignition system has more features than the "Power Spark". The latter would be the best for you, financial position etc.
The "PowerSpark" unit cost me about A$70. Sent from the UK
I notice your system has a ballast resistor attached to the coil. You would need to replace this with a more common 12 volt coil. Peugeot specifies the ballast resisted coil for tropical countries.
I've never seen one on a Peugeot sold in Australia ?
If considering a "Power Spark" unit you will need to specify the brand of the distributor ie Bosch or Ducellier. They are simple to fit some care needs to be taken with the coil connections.

I don't want to seem critical but you really need to give the engine etc a thorough clean up. I say this because you mentioned starting difficulties. Any moisture [wet weather] will cling to dirt/dust causing ignition leakage and poor starts.

"Alanquin" is the French brand of shock absorbers. As noted previously I may have the spelling wrong.:disappr: Have you tried other makers? I understand "Gabriel" are known in Africa.

Back in the day we would identify badly worn front wheel bearings by road testing, by moving the car from one side of the road to the other if any noise showed up it was a good chance the bearings were on the way out.
The other way was to raise the car, jack or hoist, spin the front wheel/s and listen for noise. You will need to make sure the brakes aren't dragging.
The only other/proper way is to remove the wheel hubs take out the bearings, clean thoroughly [kero or diesel] then inspect looking for chipped rollers or balls and their races. If replacing clean out the hubs then repack including the bearings with suitable grease.
Don't overtighten the hub nut/s.

By 'riding the brakes' I meant while driving just lightly apply the brakes to hear if there is a change or not of the noises you've mentioned.

The radiator shroud, yes if you can locate one. I have run my 504 without for a short time. Never noticed any dramatic changes. My system has a reconditioned radiator, correct thermostat and correct 4 lb/ radiator cap. [check yours]. The previous owner/s have locked up[welded] the magnetic fan:mad: I've yet to address this.

You certainly have had a "swag" of issues with the 504. Not unusual even in Aus. The good thing with most early Peugeots is that you can see a "light at the end of the tunnel".:wink2:

Keep up the photos etc.
Yours
Wildebeest
 
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