Will do. ThanksJust unplug the connector and you should see six contacts. Should be two pairs that keep constant resistance across no matter the pedal position and the remaining two are the wipers so resistance measured from each of these to the corresponding contact (one of the paired contacts) should change with pedal position. Figure out which is which and get testing. I don't think absolute values would be that important right now, more important to see there is linear change (or change of any kind) all the way across the stroke but if you find them on the nets you can check if the pots are in spec too.
The "click" is definitely in the box/top of pedal as theres nothing hitting at the bottom.The little Citroen DS3 turbo has much in common mechanically with the 207 GTI. If you feel under the pedal at the top, of the DS3 there is an electrical contact for a matching spot on the pivot support. It turns off speed limiting when the pedal is fully depressed. It might be your click.
I know, but at least it's some explanation why its revving slow and reduced power.Expect a recopy fault if one of the pedal tracks is bad. There will be a 'hard spot' at the end of travel as ss described.
The pedal may not be the root problem here.
I use a deep socket with an extension - mine has little claws that hold the plug.Really? The socket has to be THAT deep? Normal spark plug sockets with extension won't do?
Ok. If the rubber o-ring grabber or socket coming loose are the biggest concerns thats no biggie as I've got a dedicated spark plug socket with extension taped together with electrician tape and rubber grabber epoxied inI use a deep socket with an extension - mine has little claws that hold the plug.
A rubber grommet on a "normal" deep socket will often result in the socket departing from the extension and staying on the plug - hence the long sockets being suggested.
So in effect you have a long socket! The reason I advised this might just relate to the time I lost a short one down that hole.
I'm not clear about the cold air pipe. The turbo engines have a convoluted plastic feed to the air filter box with an elbow pointing left at the front. There is no sound resonator there. A simple baffle slides in front.
(You unclip the baffle and elbow to do an oil filter change)
That entire part of the intake is missing. So initial opening is the plastic pipe right under the flexible rubber pipe that goes directly into turbo housing.So in effect you have a long socket! The reason I advised this might just relate to the time I lost a short one down that hole.
I'm not clear about the cold air pipe. The turbo engines have a convoluted plastic feed to the air filter box with an elbow pointing left at the front. There is no sound resonator there. A simple baffle slides in front.
(You unclip the baffle and elbow to do an oil filter change)
Yup tube is there on mine. No suction whatsoeverHere is the inlet on a DS3 turbo, with the last bit lifted out. The big tube at the bottom is the intake. I have run th car without it.
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Gonna start pulling it apart now. So I'm missing 7,8,9,10. 11 is where my mate blocked itWhat's the filter like? What happens without it? (besides noise) There isn't much else there to bother you.
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I'm just praying there's a perfectly fitting tennis ball that's wedged in the intake and blocked itEach one of those parts comes off to do the filter. Poor service before you obtained it. You don't want to draw hot radiator air.
All parts removed, no blockages or holes/cracks. Air filt is ok. Diverter valve is ok.What's the filter like? What happens without it? (besides noise) There isn't much else there to bother you.
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