Besides slow revving, did the car idle smooth and produced power (albeit low) in a linear fashion?
Euroserve stated timing system check will be next port of call.
BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.
- Thread starter Andy's first frenchie
- Start date
Euroserve stated timing system check will be next port of call.
Lucas GDI seems to work. Left it soaking overnight (spray a few seconds burst with engine off and turn it over without actually starting the car as Euroserve instructed). It made little to no change the next morning's first drive, but after engine was warm going to mate's place, had him help keep revs up as I sprayed the rest in and on the drive home tons more power. Still only about 70% of what it should be pulling.
I'm going to eliminate if its the Lucas product that did the job or if the car behaves better when at operating temp anyway.
I'm going to eliminate if its the Lucas product that did the job or if the car behaves better when at operating temp anyway.
So... I've now done over 100km since picking it up.
- When Euroserve tech drove around neighbourhood, it felt improved.
- first Half of the drive home I didn't feel any improvement
- last half it picked up again
- this morning back to low power
- added Lucas GDI after engine was well in operating temps and it came good... well... better
- drove an hour ago (sitting for 5 hours so its cold) and was better
- then after 30mins driving, it went to shit again.
Wtf guys. Its now randomly changing from ok to shit to ok to shit. Its now parked for the night after shit power.
- When Euroserve tech drove around neighbourhood, it felt improved.
- first Half of the drive home I didn't feel any improvement
- last half it picked up again
- this morning back to low power
- added Lucas GDI after engine was well in operating temps and it came good... well... better
- drove an hour ago (sitting for 5 hours so its cold) and was better
- then after 30mins driving, it went to shit again.
Wtf guys. Its now randomly changing from ok to shit to ok to shit. Its now parked for the night after shit power.
I'd pay the good people at Peugeotech a visit (believe they have moved into new premises)..
I'm convinced it's electronics with a touch of timing.
Does this code hold meaning to you guys? As in, what relationship would this code have re my poor power issues?
Attachments
Could the leanness be so bad that it causes such a drastic power loss?
Researching as we speak.
Lean equates to insufficient petrol being burned for the air supply, so power will certainly suffer. Since it's a symptom of an off fuel to air ratio, you have to check the sensors that supply the needed info, starting with the upstream oxygen sensor. It might also reflect a manifold pressure sensor problem, or an injector problem.
They installed a new MAP sensor which was faulty and made engine run stupid rich they said black smoke was pouring out. 2nd new sensor was right. Fuel pressure is in normal range.
Its now parked, might leave it for rest of the day.
Im going to experiment and keep the revs above 2,500 because it seems the problem starts when revs drop too quickly and below 1,500
Throttle is still unresponsive above 30% input. In other words, the car seems to be producing the normal amount of power (not so much normal torque) as it should when you're just casually driving it, but then you put your foot down, there's no extra pull.
That is a big improvement and for the time being I'll settle for it.
More research and testing to come, throttle pots being top of the list as per shliztzaugens suggestions
A good throttle potentiometer should show a small voltage at the throttle closed position, gradually rising in voltage as the throttle is opened and returning back to its initial voltage as the throttle is closed. A smooth curve. A potentiometer fault can create a black spot, by sending the wrong pedal postion.
But it only tells the engine computer what you want to do. It doesn't control the air to fuel ratio. That is calculated from sensor signals, particularly the oxygen sensor. Your car has excess air, ie, oxygen that hasn't taken part in combustion, so not enough fuel. The sensor signal voltage will be very low.
But it only tells the engine computer what you want to do. It doesn't control the air to fuel ratio. That is calculated from sensor signals, particularly the oxygen sensor. Your car has excess air, ie, oxygen that hasn't taken part in combustion, so not enough fuel. The sensor signal voltage will be very low.
Vacuum intake leaks cause lean running. What does a vacuum gauge reading tell y'all?
I was thinking about vacuum leaks as well. One simple thing you can do is start the engine and go around all the intake points and spray some aerostart or similar see if the engine picks up an y revs. If it does, you found your leak.
This is a turbo-charged engine, so airway leaks go out, not in. Gas won't be sucked in to burn.
The pressure sensor has been changed, and boosted pressure is within normal limits though on the low side. The pressurised piping is solid or heavily reinforced flex at the body-mounted intercooler. The manifold and plenum is one piece nylon.\
Has the injector rail pressure been checked when it was in for attention? HP pump problems are not unknown.
The pressure sensor has been changed, and boosted pressure is within normal limits though on the low side. The pressurised piping is solid or heavily reinforced flex at the body-mounted intercooler. The manifold and plenum is one piece nylon.\
Has the injector rail pressure been checked when it was in for attention? HP pump problems are not unknown.
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This VIN doesn't appear to be valid.
I have looked up a French document which has a fair bit to say about this engine's control. The sonde à oxygène proportionnelle, as they call it, allows the engine computer to normally control the lambda ratio to +- 0.02. That's tight, but the error code tells us the computer can't achieve that any more and it has gone lean..
I may have gotten number wrong or missed. I can take a photo
That is a really narrow window indeed.
Okay, now that I know what the diverter valve is supposed to sound like and volume, the times the car has been shit, its not making anywhere near same volume and can only JUST hear it only in 1st and 2nd.
When its ok, I can hear it in 3rd and above, Albeit quietly.
It was shit on the 25min journey home and I checked OBDII reader and it was showing P2192
Which is rich mixture. Cleared it and it drove ok again.
So O2 sensor needs replacing.
Question: is there a safe and easy way to raise idle revs so it never drops below 1,000? I'm just paranoid because whenever idle drops below 1,000 that's when things usuall to pot.
Every time I take off, I rev to about 2,000 and sidestep the clutch. I'm not used to where the bite point is, so until I do, the poor clutch plate will have to suffer. The clutch is only about 1,000km old anyway.
I also drive in a gear so its always above 2k, unless road is very level, I'm crusing and it has momentum.
Its like learning how to drive again
Fuel pressure within normal range, as is MAP. I'm unsure if they physically checked the rail with specialist tool, I think they just checked computer diagnostics.
As per my previous comment, i can confirm the turbo is boosting poorly in 1st and 2nd and probably no boost at all in 3rd and above as I cannot hear a hint of diverter valve flutter in 3rd and above and can JUST hear it in 1st and 2nd
did you check/replace the diverter valve? 3 x allen screws easy check
Yup. Sorry, did I not reply to your question before? Diverter valve fine, I thought i posted pic. Euroserve said it doesn't appear OEM though, but if diaphragm crapped out, it would be rough all over the place.