Followed wastegate line and its tight at the back (feels like its clamped at the back) nothing pinched, intake join at throttle body is lined up properly and clamped, nothing loose or disconnected. Shit. What can it be!?
BRISBANE. Bougth a 207 GTi lemon.
- Thread starter Andy's first frenchie
- Start date
Going back to post 1, it starts and idles. After that it's poor. Have you checked turbo output and the intercooler - there is a pressure sensor hole on the right rear intake pipe. Perhaps clean the intake pressure sensors in case they report wrongly.
Many of these engines lose a lot of oil from the turbo bearing and it finishes up inside the air system
Many of these engines lose a lot of oil from the turbo bearing and it finishes up inside the air system
I put a pod filter temporarily where the airbox should be. No change.
Removed all pipes up to the pipe that has the MAF, no cracks/holes/blockage.
Not a hint of oil in turbo housing.
Intercooler looks ok. Some oil on the inlet side of Intercooler piping but minor. No oil on the outlet side.
Yes, idles perfect, doesn't fluctuate.
Drives like its producing 20% power, and even less torque.
I have jaycar sensor cleaner spray. Should I hit everything with it?
With just the top intake pipe connected pre turbo (the ribbed one), I can at least confirm engine has vacuum as it clamped on my hand as I covered it.
Thats what I did.
I covered the opening where the pod filter is now and there strong vacuum clamping on my hand.
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Sorry, I may have missed it, but how did the pedal/throttle plate question turn out?
My mate couldn't test it for me as he's got a bad back.
If you can borrow a multimeter you can test it yourself. You just need to unplug the pedal connection to the sensor and measure the contacts of the two pots as I have outlined above.
That aside, can you manually open the throttle plate in any way? Like disconnect whatever plugs into it and force it open? It would be good if you could keep the sensor wires connected but remove the motor wires from the connector so you can have control over how much it opens but still feed the position signal back to the ECU.
I am more and more inclined to believe there is something wrong in this pedal-actuator system with your car. If it were mine (and I didn't have the instruments to measure things properly) I would just remove the whole throttle assembly (if possible) and use my hand as a throttle plate. I know this would throw the ECU off, but at least I would see if the engine revs even for a few seconds (until the ECU does something like cut the injectors or some such; and yes, I know a lot of things will be off like the ignition timing won't be right, the injector duty cycle will be off but the engine will try to respond simply because it has more air flow coming in). And if it does, then it is definitely a problem with this throttle pedal-throttle actuator loop.
That aside, can you manually open the throttle plate in any way? Like disconnect whatever plugs into it and force it open? It would be good if you could keep the sensor wires connected but remove the motor wires from the connector so you can have control over how much it opens but still feed the position signal back to the ECU.
I am more and more inclined to believe there is something wrong in this pedal-actuator system with your car. If it were mine (and I didn't have the instruments to measure things properly) I would just remove the whole throttle assembly (if possible) and use my hand as a throttle plate. I know this would throw the ECU off, but at least I would see if the engine revs even for a few seconds (until the ECU does something like cut the injectors or some such; and yes, I know a lot of things will be off like the ignition timing won't be right, the injector duty cycle will be off but the engine will try to respond simply because it has more air flow coming in). And if it does, then it is definitely a problem with this throttle pedal-throttle actuator loop.
I really appreciate yours and other's help and advice but when it comes to electronics, I'm a noob.
I know how things work, but when it comes to testing them out, I'm no good.
It's booked into a specialist in a few days' time so they should be able to make lemonade out of my lemon
I am not sure on this early version of the EP6 engine, but on the later turbo versions the throttle body butterfly has only 3 positions. It is motor driven, computer controlled. It isn't a traditional throttle.
In the non-turbo atmo cars with variable valve stroke it isn't needed to fill the cylinders, but is used to maintain a depression of 50 mbar in the manifold plenum, to allow blow-by vapour collection. It will behave traditionally only if the variable lift fails.
In the non-turbo atmo cars with variable valve stroke it isn't needed to fill the cylinders, but is used to maintain a depression of 50 mbar in the manifold plenum, to allow blow-by vapour collection. It will behave traditionally only if the variable lift fails.
Interesting info, SS. This would probably simplify the checking procedure for our friend.
It is not that complicated to measure the throttle pots, if you've ever measured anything in or around your house it's like that (only probably less comfortable because you have to squeeze yourself into the footwell).
And you're not doing anything with electronics (yet). You're just measuring a resistor to make sure it is a resistor basically (as opposed to an open contact or a shorted contact).
I am willing to put money the workshop people won't measure the pots and they'll start telling you to change this that and the other until many thousands of dollars later the car still don't work and the problem is made worse and you'll give up. Ask me how I know.
It is not that complicated to measure the throttle pots, if you've ever measured anything in or around your house it's like that (only probably less comfortable because you have to squeeze yourself into the footwell).
And you're not doing anything with electronics (yet). You're just measuring a resistor to make sure it is a resistor basically (as opposed to an open contact or a shorted contact).
I am willing to put money the workshop people won't measure the pots and they'll start telling you to change this that and the other until many thousands of dollars later the car still don't work and the problem is made worse and you'll give up. Ask me how I know.
I have had 2 cars now that would not rev up.
One was a 5008 ep6 turbo with no fault codes.
0 - 60 in 3min it was that bad.
Timing was out on both cams.
There is only a sensor on intake cam so it did not put light on because it was in an acceptable range on intake side.
One was a 5008 ep6 turbo with no fault codes.
0 - 60 in 3min it was that bad.
Timing was out on both cams.
There is only a sensor on intake cam so it did not put light on because it was in an acceptable range on intake side.
Give it a good whipping with a tree branch, like Basel Faulty did once.
I think the required treatment is "a damn good thrashing." You also have to call it a "vicious bastard." I think that got Basil's car working.
Ha! That's EXACTLY what came to mind today when I was talking to colleague about picking it up. I'm calling it French Lemon and treating it like the gimp it is. I love cars but when dont love me back... they get a darn good trashing because they asked for it
Right!... you asked for it!...
So... French Lemon is back. It has greatly improved, but that's not saying much as it has more to be done.
Recap:
Previously it was like a 1L Naturally aspirated and going uphill was a chore. Hill starts causes much anxiety as I need to rev it well past 3,000RPM, half-dump the clutch and floor it in order to keep revs above1500RPM.
I am not exaggerating one iota. It was horrible.
I think the first thing (besides replacing the clutch slave and master which decides to shit themselves a couple of days before I dropped French Lemon to them) Euroserve did is change fuel filter. They stated it was very clogged.
This improved a fair bit.
MAP sensor was giving weird readings so they installed new one and that improved it even more.
- Turbo is producing normal boost, although a few psi less than what it should
- all sensors reading within normal range
- no fault codes
Whereas prior it was producing what seemed like 20% of total power & torque, now its around 70%.
Still revs slow but not glacial slow.
On steep hills i can keep it in 3rd, around 3,500rpm, 60km/h and it will pull ok and still build revs.
Prior it would be 1st, well over 4,000rpm, and revs may/may not drop depending on how much momentum I've carried.
I can clearly hear the diverter valve (I removed it and diaphragm is in good nik).
It now feels like a 2L NA. Its not the low-down whip it should be, but its heading in the right direction at least.
Thank you again for everyone who has replied, even the comical ones, because you either laugh or cry right?
I've sprayed some Lucas GDI carbon cleaner in a couple hours ago in intake (via the pressure sensor) and leaving it soak overnight on their suggestion as a "may as well try" easy thing to do.
I'll keep y'all posted on any and all progress.... or regress
Recap:
Previously it was like a 1L Naturally aspirated and going uphill was a chore. Hill starts causes much anxiety as I need to rev it well past 3,000RPM, half-dump the clutch and floor it in order to keep revs above1500RPM.
I am not exaggerating one iota. It was horrible.
I think the first thing (besides replacing the clutch slave and master which decides to shit themselves a couple of days before I dropped French Lemon to them) Euroserve did is change fuel filter. They stated it was very clogged.
This improved a fair bit.
MAP sensor was giving weird readings so they installed new one and that improved it even more.
- Turbo is producing normal boost, although a few psi less than what it should
- all sensors reading within normal range
- no fault codes
Whereas prior it was producing what seemed like 20% of total power & torque, now its around 70%.
Still revs slow but not glacial slow.
On steep hills i can keep it in 3rd, around 3,500rpm, 60km/h and it will pull ok and still build revs.
Prior it would be 1st, well over 4,000rpm, and revs may/may not drop depending on how much momentum I've carried.
I can clearly hear the diverter valve (I removed it and diaphragm is in good nik).
It now feels like a 2L NA. Its not the low-down whip it should be, but its heading in the right direction at least.
Thank you again for everyone who has replied, even the comical ones, because you either laugh or cry right?
I've sprayed some Lucas GDI carbon cleaner in a couple hours ago in intake (via the pressure sensor) and leaving it soak overnight on their suggestion as a "may as well try" easy thing to do.
I'll keep y'all posted on any and all progress.... or regress
Euroserve tech confirmed my findings in that there is no discernible difference between half throttle and full throttle. Definitely something to look at for Round 2 of shop-work if I can't figure it out myself.
You underestimate how much of an electric/electronic noob i am.